- Overview (quick)
- Two common Hilux setups: older models use a mechanical throttle cable; newer ones use an electronic throttle body (ETB / drive‑by‑wire). Procedure differs: cable can be adjusted; ETB is cleaned and requires an ECU/throttle relearn rather than a mechanical adjustment.
- Follow safety: engine off, key out, parking brake on, stable flat ground, engine cool. Wear safety glasses and nitrile/mechanic gloves.

- Tools you’ll need (with detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Basic metric socket set (8–19 mm common sizes), ratchet and extensions
- Use to remove intake piping, throttle body mounting bolts, and bracket bolts. Match socket size to fastener, click ratchet to loosen clockwise/righty‑tighty rule reversed when loosening. Use extension for recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed ends)
- For bolts/nuts where socket won’t fit. Use boxed end for better grip; pull toward you rather than push to avoid slipping.
- Screwdrivers: Phillips and flathead (medium)
- Use flathead to loosen hose clamps (careful not to gouge plastic). Use Phillips for clamp screws or small fasteners.
- Pliers: needle‑nose and slip‑joint
- Needle‑nose for hose clips and small connectors; slip‑joint for larger clips. Grip firmly, don't twist hoses aggressively.
- Torx/Allen driver set (if required)
- Some throttle bodies or sensors use Torx or hex bolts. Match driver to head and apply steady torque.
- Torque wrench (in-lb/Nm range)
- To tighten throttle body bolts to correct spec and avoid warping or stripped threads. Set to manufacturer spec if known; if you don’t have the spec, tighten evenly and snug (avoid over‑torquing).
- Throttle body/carby cleaner (spray can labeled “throttle body” or “intake”)
- Specialized solvent that removes carbon deposits quickly without leaving residue. Do not use general degreaser or brake cleaner on sensitive components.
- Clean lint‑free rags and shop towels
- For wiping carbon and solvent; keep area clean to prevent debris entering intake.
- Small soft-bristle brush (nylon) or toothbrush
- For scrubbing carbon from throttle plate/bores gently.
- Vacuum/air compressor (optional, helpful)
- Blow out loose debris and dry parts; use low pressure to avoid damaging sensors.
- Digital multimeter (DMM)
- For checking throttle position sensor (TPS) voltage or continuity on cable setups. Set to DC volts and probe wiring harness pins per manual.
- OBD2 scanner (basic code reader or dealer-level for ETB relearn)
- For reading/clearing codes and performing throttle relearn/calibration on many ETB systems. Basic readers clear codes; some scanners have “throttle body alignment” function.
- Battery terminal wrench (8–10 mm)
- To disconnect negative terminal safely when required for safety or reset. Loosen nut, lift terminal off.
- Replacement gasket(s) and new throttle body (if required)
- Gasket prevents air leaks between throttle body and intake. Throttle body assembly if worn/failed.
- Replacement throttle cable (for cable models) and cable lubricant
- Cable wear or stretch causes poor response; replacing restores correct play.

- Preparation (what to do before you start)
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- Let engine fully cool (metal parts can be very hot).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when removing electrical connectors or sensors (for safety and to avoid codes). Leave disconnected for a few minutes if cleaning ETB only when a relearn procedure is planned.
- Note/photograph vacuum hoses and electrical connectors locations before removal so you can reconnect correctly.

- Cleaning procedure (works for both cable and ETB models; steps differ a bit)
- Remove intake snorkel/airbox and intake pipe to access throttle body.
- Use screwdrivers/sockets to loosen hose clamps and bolts. Pull off carefully; if sticky, wiggle and pull, never force.
- Inspect throttle body and mounting face for heavy carbon and a torn gasket.
- If gasket damaged, replace before reinstalling.
- For cable throttle bodies:
- Hold throttle plate slightly open by hand (so spring doesn’t snap closed onto brush) and spray throttle body cleaner onto plate and bore.
- Use nylon brush to remove carbon deposits on plate edges and bore. Wipe with clean rag until shiny.
- Cycle the throttle by hand a few times to clean both sides of the plate. Don’t use metal tools on plate.
- For electronic throttle bodies:
- Spray cleaner onto cloth, wipe plate and bore — don’t soak electronics or wiring. Use brush gently. ETBs are more sensitive; don’t spray directly into motor area.
- Avoid pressing hard on throttle shaft or actuator; only move the plate slightly to reach deposits.
- Reinspect for loosened debris in intake; vacuum or blow out (low pressure) to ensure nothing falls into the engine.
- Replace gasket with new one if the old was damaged or brittle.

- Reassembly
- Reinstall throttle body, tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to snug torque. If you have torque spec, use it; otherwise tighten to a firm snug without over‑torquing.
- Reconnect vacuum hoses, electrical connectors, intake piping and airbox. Ensure all clamps are secure and no vacuum lines are left off.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.

- Adjustment and relearn
- Cable throttle adjustment:
- Locate the throttle cable adjuster (at throttle body end or in engine bay). There should be a specified free play at the accelerator pedal or throttle lever; typical free play is a few millimeters at the pedal or 2–5 mm at the throttle lever—check workshop manual for exact spec.
- Loosen locknut, turn adjuster to remove excessive slack until the specified play is achieved, then tighten locknut. Check throttle returns smoothly and idle is stable.
- If idle is wrong after adjustment, fine‑tune idle using idle screw (if present) only if you know the correct idle RPM. Many modern engines control idle electronically so don’t force high idle.
- ETB relearn (if required)
- Many ECUs will automatically relearn idle after battery disconnect or cleaning. Some require a specific procedure:
- Simple method: with key off, connect battery; turn ignition to ON (do not start) and leave 1–2 minutes; start engine and let idle without accessories until temperature reaches normal operating range, then cycle A/C on/off. This can work on many models.
- If ECU still shows throttle codes or idle is unstable, use an OBD2 scanner with “throttle body alignment” or follow factory procedure printed in a service manual. Without proper relearn some drivability issues can persist.
- If you don’t have a scanner and automatic relearn fails, a shop visit may be required.

- How to use the multimeter for TPS (older models with a separate TPS)
- With key ON (engine off), backprobe the TPS signal wire and ground.
- You should see a smooth voltage change (commonly 0.5–1.0 V at closed and ~4.0–4.5 V at wide open) as you slowly open the throttle. Voltage jumps or dead zones indicate a faulty TPS and it should be replaced.

- When part replacement is required, why, and what to replace
- Replace throttle body assembly
- Why: internal motor/actuator failure, severe carbon that can’t be cleaned, worn or seized shaft, or irreparable electrical faults on ETB.
- Replace with OEM or OEM-spec aftermarket throttle body and new gasket.
- Replace throttle position sensor (TPS) (on cable/older units with separate TPS)
- Why: erratic voltage, codes (P0120–P0124), poor idle, hesitation. TPS is cheap and commonly replaced.
- Replace throttle cable
- Why: frayed, stretched, sticky, or binding cable gives poor response and incorrect idle. Replace with vehicle-specific cable.
- Replace gasket
- Why: air leaks cause lean condition, rough idle, and check engine light. Always replace if disturbed or damaged.
- Replace idle air control/stepper motor (if fitted separately)
- Why: if idle control is separate and cleaning doesn’t stabilize idle, this valve can fail and should be replaced.

- Symptoms that indicate cleaning vs replacement
- Cleaning likely sufficient
- Rough idle, slightly high/low idle after long service interval, visible carbon build up on throttle plate, no electronic fault codes.
- Replacement likely required
- Persistent error codes after cleaning (ETB actuator failures, TPS faults), physical binding/sticking that cleaning doesn’t fix, electrical failures, cracked housing, or shaft play/wobble.

- Extra tools/why they matter
- OBD2 scanner with throttle alignment: required if ETB needs a relearn that the ECU won’t do automatically.
- Torque wrench: prevents over‑tightening delicate throttle body bolts and avoids warping.
- Multimeter: needed to diagnose TPS and wiring faults rather than guesswork.
- Replacement parts on hand (gasket, cleaner): avoids redoing work if you discover a bad gasket.

- Final checks
- Start engine and listen for rough running, vacuum leaks, or check engine light. If CEL appears, read codes with OBD2.
- Verify smooth throttle response and return to idle when you lift off pedal.
- Road test gently to confirm drivability.

- Safety reminders (short)
- Never spray throttle cleaner into a running ETB; allow engine off and key off where applicable.
- Avoid getting solvent on wiring connectors and sensors.
- If unsure about electrical relearn procedures, get a scanner or take it to a workshop.

- Typical replacement parts list (buy by VIN/year for correct fit)
- Throttle body assembly (OEM or qualified aftermarket)
- Throttle body gasket
- Throttle position sensor (if separate)
- Throttle cable (if fitted)
- Idle control valve (if separate)
- Use vehicle VIN/year to source exact parts.

Done.
rteeqp73

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