1) Purpose and quick theory
- The flywheel/flexplate stores and evens engine crank pulses, provides a mounting face for the clutch or torque converter, carries the starter ring gear and transmits torque to the driveline. Damage or misalignment causes hard starting, starter grinding, clutch slip, vibration, noise and accelerated bearing/crank wear. Repair restores correct mass, flatness, tooth condition and secure fastening so energy is transmitted smoothly and starter meshes cleanly.

2) Safety and prep (do these first)
- Park on level ground, apply parking brake, chock wheels, remove ignition key and disconnect negative battery cable. Allow engine to cool. Support loader body/boom if needed so nothing shifts when components are removed. Use appropriate PPE and lifting gear. Never rely on jacks alone.
- Have the OEM workshop manual to hand for model‑specific access points, bolt torque and alignment specs.

3) Tools and measurement gear you’ll need (theory: measure before/after)
- Engine hoist/support or transmission jack, breaker bars, impact or torque wrench, appropriate sockets, pry bars, dial indicator (runout), straightedge, micrometer or thickness gauge, punch/marker for indexing, flywheel holding tool, puller or press for ring gear if removing, threadlocker, anti-seize, new flywheel/flexplate bolts (single‑use usually).
- Theory: measuring runout and flatness establishes whether machining or replacement is required; bolts stretch and should be replaced to maintain clamp load.

4) Symptoms → likely faults (so you know what to look for)
- Starter grinding/poor engagement → damaged/loose ring gear or improper starter positioning.
- Hard cranking or no crank when starter engaged → missing teeth, loose bolts, sheared bolts, or torque converter separation.
- Vibration under load or clutch judder → flywheel runout, cracked flywheel, uneven surface, or missing balance mass.
- Oil leaks at rear main seal after flywheel work → incorrect reinstallation, seal damage, or crank flange damage.

5) Ordered procedure (with theory integrated)
1. Document alignment: mark the relationship between engine crank flange, flywheel/flexplate and transmission/torque converter with paint or scribe marks so angular/phasing relationship is preserved. Theory: many assemblies are balanced/ indexed; preserving phase prevents vibration and balance issues.
2. Remove obstruction components: remove hood/guards, intake/exhaust where necessary, battery, starter, starter housing and ancillary pipes to gain clear access. Theory: starter must be removed to avoid damage and to inspect ring gear.
3. Support the transmission/torque converter: use a transmission jack or engine hoist to take the load so the bellhousing-to-engine bolts can be removed without the transmission dropping. Theory: the torque converter/flexplate assembly is heavy and will collapse if unsupported, risking damage and misalignment.
4. Mark torque converter/flexplate to flex location and remove torque converter-to-flexplate bolts (if applicable): rotate by hand to access all bolts. Remove bolts in a star pattern after supporting converter. Theory: torque converter bolts locate the converter on the flexplate; if removed without support the converter can separate and damage pump or crank.
5. Remove bellhousing/bellhousing bolts and separate the transmission from the engine enough to access the flywheel/flexplate bolts. If the flywheel is fully exposed you may not need to fully remove the transmission—follow OEM service flow.
6. Hold the flywheel/flexplate steady with a holding tool and remove the flywheel bolts. Remove the flywheel/flexplate assembly carefully. Theory: flywheel is heavy; removing bolts in sequence and supporting avoids sudden shift and prevents bending of the crank flange.
7. Inspect component and mating surfaces:
- Check ring gear: missing/broken teeth, heat discoloration, loose fit. Theory: a loose ring gear will move on the flywheel causing starter gear clash and tooth shear.
- Check surface flatness/heat spots/cracks: use straightedge and magnaflux or dye penetrant for cracks. Theory: surface irregularities cause clutch slip and chatter; cracks produce imbalance and failure.
- Measure runout on mounting face with a dial indicator at the rim and at bolt circle. Compare to OEM spec. Theory: runout gives direct indication of misalignment that causes vibration.
- Check bolt holes for elongation and crank flange for wear/damage.
8. Decide repair vs replace:
- Resurface (machine) only if runout and thickness remain within OEM limits, no cracks, and ring gear and bolt holes are sound. Theory: resurfacing restores a flat contact surface; removing metal changes mass slightly but within allowed tolerance.
- Replace flywheel/flexplate if cracks, excessive runout beyond spec, broken or loose ring gear, stretched/elongated bolt holes or if resurfacing would exceed minimum thickness/balance limits. Theory: cracks and excessive runout are progressive failures that will get worse under load; replacement restores correct mass/balance and structural integrity.
- Repair ring gear by pressing off and pressing a new gear or replacing entire flywheel. Ensure gear interference fit and correct seating (heat-fitting ring gear is common). Theory: ring gear must be a tight interference fit to transfer starter torque without creeping.
9. Replace pilot bearing/bushing and rear main seal if worn/damaged. Theory: removing flywheel exposes these; new seals prevent oil contamination of clutch/flexplate which causes slippage and starter tooth wear.
10. Clean and inspect crank flange, mating surfaces, and alignment dowels. Replace dowels if damaged. Theory: dowels locate the flywheel concentrically; damaged dowels lead to eccentric mounting and vibration.
11. Reinstall:
- Seat flywheel onto dowels, align marks, start bolts finger-tight.
- Tighten bolts in the OEM specified star pattern and to the exact torque spec (use new bolts if required and threadlocker if specified). Theory: star pattern prevents distortion; correct torque ensures clamp load to prevent bolt shear and relative movement.
- If torque converter/flexplate bolts were removed, align indexed marks and torque each bolt to spec in sequence.
12. Reassemble bellhousing, starter, and all removed components. Reconnect battery.
13. Test run: crank and observe starter engagement, idle, and run-up; check for unusual vibration, noise, or leaks. Road/work test under load if possible and re-torque bolts if manual requires after first run.

6) How each repair action fixes the fault (concise mapping)
- Replacing cracked or warped flywheel → removes imbalance source, stops vibration, prevents eventual catastrophic failure and crankshaft damage.
- Resurfacing a glazed/scored face → restores flatness so clutch friction face seats correctly, eliminating slippage and chatter.
- Replacing loose/broken ring gear → stops starter grinding, ensures reliable engagement and proper starting torque transfer.
- Replacing bolts/dowels and using correct torque → eliminates relative movement between crank and flywheel that causes fretting, bolt shear, or misalignment.
- Replacing pilot bearing/rear seal → prevents oil contamination and bearing looseness that cause misalignment and clutch noise.
- Correct indexing and balancing → preserves designed dynamic balance and timing phase; prevents new vibration after reassembly.

7) Final verification and tolerance notes
- Always use OEM torque values and runout/flatness limits from the Toyota SGK6/SDK6/SDK8 workshop manual. If you don’t have the manual, do not guess torque values—incorrect torque is a common cause of failure.
- After initial hours of operation, re-check flywheel/torque converter bolts if manual requires.

End.
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