Short version up front: a gear-set overhaul is a tear-down, inspection, replacement of worn bearings/seals/gears and correct re‑assembly (shimming/preload/backlash) of the final-drive/transmission gear assembly. It fixes noise, loss of drive, slipping, oil contamination and catastrophic failure. Below I give the theory, every component you’ll encounter, required tools, step‑by‑step procedure for a complete overhaul appropriate for a beginner mechanic, common symptoms and failure modes, inspection limits and testing methods. Verify all torque, shim and backlash numbers with the Toyota factory service manual for SGK6/SDK6/SDK8 before final torque/adjustments.

Safety first
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, use wheel stands/blocks under frame. Don’t rely on hydraulic arms alone; support with stands or a hoist.
- Relieve hydraulic pressure (park, lower attachments, shut off engine, operate controls per OEM lockout procedure).
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots. Have a helper for heavy lifts or use a hoist/forklift.
- Hydraulic oil and gear oil are slippery and harmful — avoid skin contact; dispose of used oils/parts per local laws.

Theory (how it works and why overhaul is needed)
- Purpose: the gear set (final drive or gearbox) transfers torque from the power source (hydrostatic motor or transmission output) to the drive wheels/sprockets at the correct ratio, while supporting radial/axial loads with bearings and sealing lubricant inside the housing.
- Mechanically, this is a set of mating gears (spur, helical, or planetary depending on the design) mounted on shafts inside a casing. Bearings support the shafts and keep correct gear mesh geometry. Seals keep lubricant in and contaminants out. Shims/adjusters set gear backlash and bearing preload.
- Why overhaul: metal fatigue, wear, contamination and poor lubrication change clearances and geometry. Symptoms: whining/grinding noise under load, increased backlash (clunking), oil leakage, metallic particles in oil, decreased drive force or intermittent loss of drive. Left unrepaired, gear teeth can chip or break and bearings can seize, causing sudden loss of function and expensive collateral damage.

Major components — what they are, what they do, common failure signs
- Housing / Gearcase: cast housing that locates bearings, shafts and seals. Look for cracks, stripped bolt holes, warped mating surfaces, external damage.
- Input shaft (if present): receives torque from motor/transmission. Inspect for scored journals, keyway damage, spline wear.
- Gears (pinion, ring gear, idlers, sun/planet gears): transfer torque via meshing teeth. Failures: wear (rounded tooth profile), pitting, scoring, spalling, chipped/broken teeth, improper contact pattern.
- Bearings:
- Tapered roller bearings — take axial + radial loads; preload critical. Signs: rough rotation, excessive play, overheating, race spalling.
- Cylindrical/needle bearings — radial loads; signs similar to above.
- Ball bearings — light loads, rotational issues.
- Bearing races / cups / cones: mating surfaces for bearings — check for pitting, discoloration from overheating.
- Seals (lip seals, O-rings, face seals): prevent leaks and ingress of dirt. Signs: hardened, torn, leaking oil, deformed lips.
- Thrust washers / spacers / shims: control axial location and backlash. Signs: worn down, uneven wear, incorrect thickness.
- Snap rings / retaining rings: hold assemblies in axial position — inspect for deformation or cracks.
- Gaskets / mating faces / drain and fill plugs: inspect for sealing failures and stripped threads.
- Oil pump (if internal) and filters/strainers: wear or clogging reduces lubrication.
- Breather valve: allows air to escape; clogged breather causes pressure build-up and leaks.
- Fasteners (bolts, studs): check for stretch, corrosion, correct grade/torque.
- Speed sensors or magnetic pickups (if fitted): check cleanliness and continuity.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Factory service manual for torque specs, clearances, assembly sequences and part numbers.
- Hand tools: wrenches, ratchets, sockets (metric), breaker bar, hex/Allen wrenches.
- Torque wrench (suitable range for all gearbox bolts).
- Impact wrench for removal (careful on re-install).
- Bearing puller / gear puller, hydraulic press with appropriate adapters.
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal and external).
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (measuring backlash, endplay).
- Micrometer, vernier caliper, depth gauge (measure shafts, journals, shim thickness).
- Feeler gauges.
- Bearing heater or oven (for press-fit bearings).
- Cleaning solvents (degreaser), lint‑free rags, wire brushes.
- Gear marking compound (for contact pattern), assembly lubricant, anti-seize.
- Seal drivers and bearing drivers, drift punches, soft mallet.
- New bearings, seals, gaskets, shims, bolts as required (don’t reuse single‑use bolts).
- High-pressure hydraulic hoses rated for your machine (if removing hydraulic components).
- Container for drained oil, waste disposal materials.

Preparation and access
1. Read the factory service manual section for the gear case/final drive overhaul. Note bolt torques, shim part numbers and final gear backlash/preload specs.
2. Park the machine on level ground, lower bucket/attachments, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
3. Relieve system hydraulic pressure per OEM instructions.
4. Drain the gearcase/final drive oil into a clean container. Inspect oil for metal flakes — large flakes indicate severe wear.
5. Remove ancillary attachments blocking access (batteries, covers, hoses). Label hydraulic hoses and wire connectors. Cap lines to prevent contamination.
6. Support the unit (hoist/jack stands) so the final drive can be removed safely if it’s a bolt‑on assembly.

Disassembly — controlled, labeled, clean
- Photograph and label each step/part. Keep bolts grouped in labeled bags.
- Remove external components: sprocket, wheel hub, brake components if present, linkage.
- Unbolt the gearcase from the frame if removeable. If overhaul is done in situ, you’ll still remove covers and internal components.
- Remove cover/inspection plate(s). Collect gasket material.
- Remove snap rings and locking devices in sequence. Use internal snap‑ring pliers where required.
- Pull shafts/gears using a gear puller or press. Use gentle, even pressure to avoid bending shafts.
- Remove bearings (puller or press). If a bearing is a crush-fit, it may require press removal.
- Remove seals carefully to avoid scoring machined bores.

Cleaning and inspection (this is where you make the repair decision)
- Clean all parts with solvent and dry. Use a parts washer or hot tank if available.
- Inspect gears:
- Check gear tooth surfaces for pitting, spalling, severe wear, burnt discoloration, chipped teeth.
- Look for contact pattern — if available, use gear marking compound to see where teeth contact.
- Inspect shafts:
- Measure journal diameters with micrometer; look for scoring, nicks, or out‑of‑round.
- Check splines for wear.
- Inspect bearings/races:
- Look for pitting, discoloration (overheat), brinelling.
- Spin each bearing by hand — roughness indicates replacement.
- Inspect housings:
- Check bores for ovality using dial bore gauge if you have one; any significant deformation requires rework or replacement.
- Inspect seals, gaskets, small parts and replace all wear items.
- Metal debris: if oil contained metallic flakes > fine powder, likely catastrophic wear of gear or bearing — inspect housing for metal embedded.
- Measure backlash:
- With ring gear/brass marking fitted, set up dial indicator on a fixed point and move pinion/gear back and forth to measure total runout/backlash. Compare to spec.
- Inspect bearing preload:
- Check axial endplay or torque to rotate to detect looseness or excessive tightness.

Decide: repair vs replace
- Replace bearings and seals as a rule when you open the gearcase—cheap insurance.
- Replace any gear with pitting, chipped or more than light wear — minor polishing or dressing is not a reliable fix under load.
- If housing bores are damaged, either machine to oversize and fit oversized bearings or replace the housing.
- Replace all gaskets and single‑use bolts.

Reassembly principles — geometry, preload, backlash
Analogy: gears must mesh like two friends shaking hands — the hands must align and be snug enough to stay engaged but not so tight they can’t move freely. Bearings are the elbows that set the distance between hands; if elbows are loose or swollen the handshake is wrong.
- Clean all mating surfaces. Lightly oil bearing journals and assembly surfaces.
- Install new bearings and seals using a press or bearing heater (heat outer race to expand, then press on shaft; never heat bearings beyond recommended temperature).
- If tapered roller bearings are used, set bearing preload per manual: either by torque on retaining nut until specified torque or by measuring rotational torque/endplay. Too much preload = heat and premature failure; too little = movement and gear misalignment.
- Set gear backlash using shims/spacers: adjust shim thickness until dial indicator shows specified backlash. Typical procedure: lock ring gear in place, rotate pinion to take up clearance, measure and alter shim thickness to adjust.
- Check gear tooth contact pattern with marking compound: pattern should be centered on tooth and not on edge; if off-center, change shim/axial position accordingly.
- Install snap rings and retaining devices to spec. Use threadlock where called for.
- Use correct torque sequence and torque values on all bolts. Replace damaged or stretched bolts.

Common reassembly mistakes to avoid
- Reusing old seals/bearings.
- Guessing/prejudging shim thickness — take measurements and adjust incrementally.
- Overpressing gears onto shafts causing stress.
- Not cleaning contamination (dirt/metal) before sealing — leads to rapid wear.
- Skipping break-in procedure or incorrect oil fill.
- Under- or over-tightening bearing preload.

Testing and break-in
- Before full re-install, spin gear by hand to confirm smooth rotation and no tight spots.
- Reinstall gearcase to machine per factory procedure. Reconnect hoses and electrical connectors; replace or clean filters.
- Fill gearcase with correct grade and quantity of oil (OEM spec). Install fresh hydraulic oil if system was opened and follow OEM flushing instructions if contamination was a concern.
- Initial run: run engine at low idle and cycle drive controls without load to circulate oil for several minutes. Check for leaks and abnormal noises.
- Break-in: operate under light load for the first few hours of use; re-check torque on fasteners, check oil for metal particles after first 10–20 hours and change oil if contamination persists.
- Re-measure backlash/preload after 10 hours and after 50 hours if practical.

What can go wrong (failure modes and consequences)
- Bearing failure from improper preload or contamination → increased play → gear misalignment → tooth damage → sudden catastrophic failure.
- Incorrect backlash/shim selection → tooth edge loading → accelerated wear, heat generation, noise.
- Seal failure or clogged breather → pressure build-up and leaks; contamination ingress → wear.
- Improper reassembly torque or reused/incorrect bolts → loosening and structural failure.
- Overheating due to wrong oil or insufficient lubrication → tempered/blue discoloration and rapidly accelerated wear.

Inspection limits and red flags
- Any chipped tooth or deep pitting on gear = replace gear.
- Excessive shaft journal scoring or out‑of‑round beyond OEM tolerance = machine or replace shaft.
- Bearing roughness, play or spalled races = replace.
- Metallic flakes larger than powder in oil = inspect entire gearset for broken components.
- If you cannot achieve required backlash or preload using available shims, housing or gears may be worn beyond repair — replace major components.

Disposal and final notes
- Dispose of used oil, contaminated rags and replaced components per local regulation.
- Keep a log of parts replaced, shim thicknesses used, final torque/backlash/preload values for future service.
- If you meet resistance or parts aren’t fitting to spec, stop and consult the factory manual or a qualified heavy equipment gearbox technician — incorrect adjustments cause large failures.

Checklist summary (actionable steps)
1. Read OEM manual for specs.
2. Prepare, depressurize, disconnect battery, drain oil.
3. Remove housing/cover and external connections; label everything.
4. Disassemble carefully, photographing and labeling parts.
5. Clean parts and inspect thoroughly (gears, shafts, bearings, seals, bores, fasteners).
6. Replace bearings, seals, gaskets, damaged gears and fasteners.
7. Reassemble, setting bearing preload and gear backlash with shims per manual; check contact pattern.
8. Torque all bolts to spec, install new oil and filters.
9. Test, break-in, inspect for leaks and re-check critical dimensions after short run period.
10. Document measurements and work done.

If you need model‑specific torque values, shim part numbers or the exact backlash/preload numbers for SGK6/SDK6/SDK8, refer to the Toyota Industrial Equipment shop manual for those models — those numeric specs are critical and must be followed exactly.
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