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Toyota Skid Steer Loader SGK6 SDK6 SDK8 Factory Workshop Manual download

Tools & PPE (minimum)
- PPE: safety glasses, heavy gloves, hearing protection, flame-resistant clothing, steel-toe boots.
- Hand tools: metric socket set (including deep sockets), ratchet, breaker bar, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent).
- Exhaust-hanger pliers or long-nose pliers.
- Pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Jack and sturdy stands or transmission jack / support strap for exhaust.
- Wire brush, gasket scraper.
- Chisel/hammer and small torch or reciprocating saw with metal blade (only if bolts are seized / cutting required).
- Anti-seize compound.
- New gaskets, new flange studs/bolts/nuts or exhaust clamps (as required).
- Replacement exhaust pipe assembly (part number per machine) and any rubber hangers or heat shields.
- Rags, shop light.

Safety & prep
1. Park machine on firm, level ground, lower boom/bucket, engage parking brake, block wheels.
2. Shut engine off and allow exhaust to cool completely (several hours). Hot exhaust = severe burns.
3. Disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental cranking or electrical short.
4. Support the machine securely if you must get under it — use proper stands rated for the machine; never rely on hydraulic system alone.
5. Wear PPE; ensure good lighting and a fire extinguisher nearby if cutting or heating rusty bolts.

Step-by-step: removal
1. Inspect assembly: locate exhaust pipe sections, muffler, flanges, hangers and heat shields. Note orientation and gasket locations; take photos for reference.
2. Spray penetrating oil on all flange bolts, studs and clamp threads. Let soak minimum 15–30 minutes; repeat for heavily corroded fasteners.
3. Support the pipe/muffler with a jack or strap so the entire exhaust is held before unbolting—do not let it hang free.
4. Remove heat shields and any brackets that block access.
5. Using appropriate sockets/wrenches and breaker bar, loosen and remove flange nuts/bolts. If studs break, remove what you can and plan to extract or cut as required.
6. Release exhaust from rubber hangers using exhaust-hanger pliers or pry bar. Keep hangers if in good condition; replace if cracked.
7. If sections are clamped, loosen clamps and slide apart. If clamps are seized and pipe cannot be separated, you may have to cut the pipe at a serviceable location—use caution and appropriate tools.
8. Carefully remove the old pipe assembly. Have an assistant if the part is heavy.

Inspect & prep mating surfaces
1. Clean flange faces with wire brush and gasket scraper until metal is clean. Do not gouge sealing surface.
2. Inspect flange and mating face for warpage or heavy corrosion. Replace flange or mating components if damaged.
3. Replace all gaskets and any severely corroded studs/bolts/hangers/clamps.
4. Apply anti-seize to new bolts/studs threads (avoid getting on gasket sealing face).

Installation
1. Position the new pipe assembly into place; start by engaging hangers then support with jack/strap.
2. Fit new gasket(s) at flange joints. Make sure gasket orientation matches the original.
3. Hand-thread bolts/nuts or fit new clamps to hold components together. Do not fully tighten yet.
4. Align the pipe so there is no tension on brackets or hangers; ensure adequate clearance from fuel lines, hydraulic lines, wiring and moving parts and that heat shields clear surfaces.
5. Gradually tighten flanges/clamps in an even sequence. Use torque wrench and tighten to the manufacturer’s torque spec. If you don’t have the spec, tighten evenly and snugly—then re-check after test run. (Refer to Toyota workshop manual for exact torques for SGK6/SDK6/SDK8.)
6. Reinstall heat shields and brackets.

Final procedures & testing
1. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Start engine and observe for exhaust leaks at joints — use a rag held safely (do not put hands near hot parts) or feel for leaks only after cooling; better: visually look for soot trails or feel with gloved hand at cool points. Listen for unusual noise.
3. After a short run (engine to normal operating temperature), shut down and re-torque bolts/clamps if required (many exhaust joints seat after heat cycles).
4. Inspect for vibration contact points, move or re-seat hangers if rubbing occurs.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Seized bolts/studs: pre-soak with penetrating oil; apply heat if safe; be prepared to cut and replace studs. Have extraction tools or replacement studs ready.
- Improper support: never let exhaust hang unsupported—heavy parts can bend flanges or tear hangers.
- Reusing gaskets or hardware: always replace gaskets and replace severely corroded bolts/studs and clamps.
- Incorrect alignment: forcing the pipe into place will stress joints and cause leaks; ensure proper hangar positioning and clearance first.
- Forgetting heat shields: can lead to heat damage to hoses/wiring.
- Over-tightening small bolts: can shear studs—use proper torque and sequence.
- Not checking after heat cycles: exhaust mating surfaces often re-seat; re-check torque.

Replacement parts typically required
- Exhaust pipe assembly (OEM part specific to SGK6/SDK6/SDK8) or section you’re replacing.
- Exhaust gaskets (flange gasket(s)).
- Flange studs/bolts/nuts or exhaust clamps (prefer stainless or OEM hardware).
- Rubber hangers and possibly heat shields if corroded.
- Anti-seize compound.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Penetrating oil: frees seized threads—apply and allow soak time.
- Breaker bar: provides high torque to free stubborn bolts.
- Exhaust-hanger pliers: compress and remove rubber hangers safely.
- Torque wrench: applies correct final torque to flange bolts to prevent leaks or stud failure.
- Jack/stands/transmission jack: supports heavy exhaust during removal/installation.
- Reciprocating saw / torch: last-resort to cut severely corroded pipes; use fire safety.
- Wire brush / gasket scraper: clean sealing surfaces before installing new gasket.

Done checklist
- New gaskets & hardware installed
- Exhaust supported correctly, no tension on joints
- Clearances maintained from lines and components
- Heat shields reinstalled
- No leaks after warm-up; re-torque after heat cycle

End.
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