Tools & parts (minimum)
1) Basic hand tools, torque wrench, transmission jack or lift, drain pan.
2) Line-pressure gauge with adapter for Toyota A442F test port.
3) Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent, small pick.
4) New transmission fluid, new filter, new pan gasket.
5) Pressure-relief-valve repair kit (valve/plunger, spring, sleeve/bushing or oversize valve as applicable) or new pump/valve-body assembly if bore is worn beyond repair.
6) Light assembly lube (ATF), threadlocker if called for by manual.

Theory — what the pressure relief valve does and how failures produce symptoms
1) Function: the pressure relief (regulator) valve controls maximum hydraulic (line) pressure produced by the pump. It is a spring-loaded plunger in a precision bore that opens to bleed flow when line pressure exceeds the spring set point. That keeps pressure within a range required for correct clutch/servo application and shift timing.
2) Failure modes:
- Stuck/dirty valve or collapsed spring → stays open → low line pressure → slipping, burned clutch plates, delayed or soft shifts.
- Valve stuck closed or broken spring seating incorrectly → excessive pressure → harsh, abrupt shifts, clutch drag, possible seal rupture.
- Worn bore (ovalized/scored) → internal leakage past the valve → cannot build/hold correct pressure even with a new spring → low pressure symptoms persist unless bore is rebuilt/sleeved or valve replaced with oversize fitting.
3) How the repair fixes it: cleaning/unblocking restores free movement; replacing worn valve/spring restores correct set pressure and sealing; installing a sleeve or oversize valve restores sealing clearance so the valve can control pressure again. That restores regulated line pressure, which restores correct clutch engagement and shift quality.

Diagnosis (ordered)
1) Check symptoms: slipping under load, delayed/soft shifts, burnt smell, metal in pan.
2) Static line-pressure test: connect gauge to the manufacturer test port, warm the trans to operating temp, record line pressure at hot idle and at specified engine RPM in Park/Neutral and in drive/gear positions per the factory chart. Compare to specs. Low pressure indicates relief/regulator or pump wear; excessively high indicates stuck/closed valve or wrong spring.
3) Pan and filter inspection: drain fluid, inspect fluid color/odors and metal particles; remove filter and visually inspect valve-body area for debris. Heavy metal or burnt fluid supports worn friction/clutch damage secondary to low pressure.
4) If line-pressure test points to relief/regulator, proceed to disassemble for inspection.

Repair procedure — step-by-step, in order (theory + what to watch for at each step)
1) Prepare: park level, disconnect battery, gather tools. Relieve pressure by draining ATF into a clean pan. This prevents contamination and makes valve-body removal safer.
Theory: fluid out prevents spillage and lets you inspect the pan/filter for evidence of valve debris/wear.
2) Remove pan and filter: unbolt pan, lower carefully, remove filter. Inspect for metal and for stuck particles around the valve-body passages.
Theory: filter removal allows access to valve body fasteners and reveals debris that may have been jamming the relief valve.
3) Remove valve body or pump cover as required to access the relief valve: support valve body, unfasten bolts in the correct sequence, lower the valve body carefully (watch for springs and check balls). If the relief valve is in the pump housing, remove the pump cover per manual. Keep track of bolt locations and any shim plates.
Theory: relief valve is in a machined bore—access is necessary to extract the plunger/spring and inspect the bore surface.
4) Locate and extract the relief valve: remove retaining clip/plug and slide out the plunger, spring, and any sleeve/bushing. Use picks carefully; do not score the bore. Place parts on clean paper in order.
Theory: removing the components lets you inspect for scoring, corrosion, broken spring, carbon build-up, or ringed wear.
5) Inspect parts and bore:
- Valve/plunger: check for pitting, galling, flat spots.
- Spring: check for correct free length and symmetry; compressed/collapsed springs are faulty.
- Bore: run a light across the surface—look for scoring or ovalization. Measure if you have the tools.
Theory: leakage paths are from worn bores or damaged valve edges; spring weakness lowers set pressure.
6) Decide repair path:
- If components are dirty/stuck but not worn: clean with solvent, blow dry, replace spring if questionable, reassemble.
- If valve plunger or bore is scored/worn: install replacement valve and/or a sleeve/oversize valve kit per kit instructions. If bore is beyond service limits, replace the pump or entire valve body assembly.
Theory: cleaning restores movement; new spring/valve restores setpoint and sealing; sleeve restores correct concentric clearance.
7) Install replacement parts:
- Lightly lubricate valve/plunger and spring with clean ATF.
- Fit any new sleeve/bushing per kit instructions, ensuring it bottoms fully and is correctly oriented.
- Install new plunger and spring, fit plug/retainer and torque to spec. Use the factory torque sequence for any cover or valve-body bolts. Do not use excess threadlocker unless specified.
Theory: correct installation and lubrication ensure free movement and correct spring preload; correct torque maintains sealing and bore alignment.
8) Reassemble valve body/pump: reinstall valve body gasket/filter or new filter, torque bolts in sequence to factory specs, reconnect any solenoids or harnesses. Replace pan gasket and reinstall pan. Refill with the correct amount and type of ATF to the specified level.
Theory: proper reassembly prevents external leaks and maintains internal tolerances; fresh fluid reduces contamination and allows accurate pressure behavior.
9) Warm-up and re-check line pressure: with the trans at normal temperature, repeat the pressure tests done during diagnosis. Confirm pressures now match factory specs for idle and load conditions and that shifting is normal.
Theory: verifying pressure proves the valve now regulates as designed; if pressures remain wrong, suspect pump wear, additional internal leakage, or reassembly error.
10) Road test and final check: drive through all gears, check for proper engagement, no slipping, no harshness, check fluid level again hot, and inspect for leaks.
Theory: operational testing confirms the hydraulic control and mechanical clutches are now receiving correct pressure.

How the repair fixes the fault — concise mapping
1) Dirty/stuck valve → free movement restored (cleaning) → valve opens/closes at setpoint → correct max pressure, eliminates low/high pressure symptoms.
2) Weak/collapsed spring → new spring restores setpoint force → pressure ceiling is restored so clutches apply correctly.
3) Worn valve/bore → new valve or sleeve restores the sealing clearance → eliminates internal bypass leakage so pump flow produces usable line pressure.
4) If the bore/pump is beyond limits and pump replaced, the pump can now create correct flow and pressure; combined with a good regulator valve the system holds required pressure and shift control returns to normal.

Warnings (brief)
- Work clean: contamination causes re-failure.
- If bore wear is present and you only replaced the spring, low pressure may persist—use proper sleeve/oversize kit or replace pump/valve body.
- Always follow factory torque sequences and specs for bolt torque and fluid type/level.

End.
rteeqp73

How to fix issue with kick down Toyota automatic gearbox. Years 1990 to 2002 How to fix issue with kick down Toyota automatic gearbox. Years 1990 to 2002.

Toyota Rav4 transmission problem and ECU repair 313-462-0124 There is a common problem with the Toyota Rav4 where the transmission is not shifting properly. Some of the symptoms are a ...

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