Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual
Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual
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Covers
Operation
Component Parts Removal
Oil Pump
Overdrive Unit
Front Clutch
Rear Clutch
Second Brake
Front and Rear Planetary Gear Unit
First and Reverse Brake
Valve Body
Upper Valve Body
Lower Valve Body
Transmission Case
Parking Lock Pawl
Component Parts Installation
Service Specifications
A442F Automatic Transmission repair and workshop manual Covers FZJ80 and HDJ80 Toyota Landcruiser, Hardtop, canvas top, station wagon Covers the 4 speed electronic controlled The new A442F automatic transmission is a 4 —speed Electronic Controlled Automatic Trans- mission and has following features;
Electronic control provides the Automatic Transmission shift and lockup points most appropriate for the power characteristics of each engine and improves shift response.A high performance super flow torque converter in the Automatic Transmission is used to improve starting off, acceleration and fuel economy.For easier operation, the transmission shift lever positions have been reduced from 7 (P,R,N,D,3,2,L) to the 6 positions (P,R,N,D,2,L) used in Landcruiser vehicles, and an overdrive main switch has been provided on the shift lever.On vehicles using the 1FZ —FE engine, shift response has been greathly improved by communication between the Engine ECU and ECT ECU to momentarily reduce engine output when shifting.
Toyota A442F Automatic Transmission factory workshop and repair manual
Procedure: Replace / service the transmission vent (air intake) tube on a Toyota A442F automatic transmission.
Summary: The “air intake tube” for a transmission is the vent/breather tube that equalizes case pressure. Over time it can crack, clog, or separate from its grommet, allowing dirt or water into the transmission or permitting pressure problems. This procedure covers removal, inspection and replacement/installation.
Required tools and parts
- Tools:
- Basic hand tools: 10, 12, 14 mm sockets and ratchet, extension
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Hose pick / small pry tool
- Utility knife or tubing cutter
- Wire cutters (for zip ties)
- Work light
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (if needed for access)
- Torque wrench (if you remove any transmission mount bolts)
- Heat gun (optional, to soften old brittle tube/expand grommet)
- Safety gloves and eye protection
- Parts:
- Replacement vent/air intake tube (OEM part or equivalent hose rated for venting)
- Replacement rubber grommet/seal for the transmission case vent port (if original is aged)
- Small hose clamps or OEM style ear clamps (if applicable)
- Zip ties or retaining clips (as required)
- Dielectric silicone grease (optional, for rubber grommet ease)
Safety precautions
- Work on a cold vehicle or let the engine/transmission cool. Hot exhaust or transmission case can burn.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- If raising the vehicle, use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be removing parts near electrical connections or battery.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Keep any open transmission port covered to avoid contamination.
Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation and access
- Park, chock wheels and disconnect the negative battery if you will be removing components near the battery.
- Locate the transmission vent tube. On A442F applications the vent is usually located on the top/rear of the transmission case and the tube runs up into the engine bay or along the firewall. You may need to remove the airbox, battery tray, or intake duct for clear access—remove only the items necessary to get access.
- If access is tight, raise the vehicle and support on jack stands so you can reach from under the car. Use a work light.
2. Inspect the existing tube and grommet
- Visually inspect for cracks, splits, blockages, collapsed sections, brittle plastic, or detached grommet.
- If the tube is clogged (dirt, oil sludge) it must be replaced. If grommet is torn or hardened, replace it. Never reuse a brittle tube or grommet.
3. Remove the old vent tube
- Follow the tube from the transmission vent port to its end. Note mounting clips and routing.
- If the tube is held by clamps or zip ties, cut zip ties or loosen clamps with pliers/screwdriver.
- Gently pull the tube off the transmission case port. Use a hose pick or small flat screwdriver to pry under the hose bead if it’s stuck—go slowly to avoid damaging the transmission housing. If the tube is brittle, warm it with a heat gun briefly to soften, then pull.
- Remove any retaining clips along the route and free the tube completely.
4. Inspect and replace grommet/seal
- Remove the old rubber grommet from the transmission case vent port. Inspect the port for damage or heavy contamination; wipe clean with a lint-free rag. Do not let dirt into the case—cover if you must.
- Fit the new grommet into the case port. Use a smear of silicone grease to help seat it if needed. Make sure it sits flush and the internal bore aligns with the vent hole.
5. Prepare replacement tube
- If using a bulk hose and cutting to length, measure routing to avoid kinks and excessive length. Cut the hose squarely with a sharp utility knife or tubing cutter. A slight bevel on the end helps slide it over the port but keep cuts clean.
- Select the correct inner diameter. Most transmission vent hoses are small (approx. 3–6 mm ID) — match OEM size.
- If using a pre-formed OEM tube, confirm routing and clip locations.
6. Install the new vent tube
- Slide the tube onto the grommet/barbed port. Push fully so the bead seats securely in the grommet. If the tube fits tight, warm gently to ease installation—do not overheat.
- Secure any clamps if the design calls for them. Many OEM vent tubes are simply pushed into a grommet and rely on the grommet for sealing; do not over-tighten clamps that could cut a small hose.
- Route the tube upward and secure to the original clamp locations, retaining clips or zip ties. Route it high in the engine bay and away from rotating parts, sharp edges, suspension components and exhaust heat sources. Keep the tube terminating high and pointing upward or to a dry area to prevent water entry.
- Reinstall any removed components (airbox, battery tray, etc.) and reconnect battery negative terminal.
7. Final checks
- Ensure the tube is not kinked, crushed, or touching hot components (exhaust manifold, catalytic converter).
- Make sure the free end is properly oriented (upward or to a dry area) to prevent water ingress.
- Start the engine and observe the area for any abnormal noises or leaks. The vent won’t leak fluid under normal conditions; if there is fluid coming out, investigate for internal overpressurization or seized valve issues.
- Road test and re-check routing and retention after a short run.
How each tool is used (specifics)
- Sockets/ratchet and screwdrivers: remove battery/airbox mounts or any brackets in the way.
- Pliers/needle-nose: grasp and remove retaining clips or clamps; compress clamps for removal/installation.
- Hose pick/small pry tool: wedge under hose bead to break adhesion to the port—work slowly to avoid gouging the housing.
- Utility knife/tubing cutter: cut replacement hose to length with a clean square cut to ensure good seating.
- Heat gun (low setting): warm old brittle hose to make it pliable for removal or warm replacement hose briefly for easier installation.
- Wire cutters: remove old zip ties and trim new zip ties flush.
- Torque wrench: if you remove any transmission mount bolts during access, torque to spec on reinstallation.
Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing brittle hose or grommet: leads to leaks and contamination. Replace both if aged.
- Routing too low or near exhaust: tube can collect water or melt. Always route high and away from exhaust and moving parts.
- Kinking or tight bends: restricts venting; provide smooth, gradual routing.
- Poor seating of grommet: causes leaks. Ensure grommet is fully seated and not twisted.
- Leaving the vent open during work: contaminants can fall in. Cover the port immediately if tube removal takes time.
- Over-tightening clamps on small vent hose: can cut the hose. Use correct clamp type and just snug.
- Using incorrect inner diameter hose: causes poor fit and possible detachment. Match OEM ID.
- Failing to secure tube: causes chafing and eventual failure. Use factory clip points or zip ties.
When replacement is required
- Replace the tube if it is cracked, clogged, hardened, collapsed, cut, or contaminated with oil sludge.
- Replace the grommet if cracked, hardened, or deformed.
- Replace any broken retaining clips or clamps.
Notes
- This is a non-invasive, low-risk maintenance task. If you find transmission fluid actively being expelled through the vent in significant quantity, that indicates a pressure problem or internal damage—stop and diagnose further (possible overfill, overheating, damaged seals).
- Always use materials rated for engine-bay exposure (heat- and oil-resistant hose).
Done. rteeqp73
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Toyota Land Cruiser - Chassis and Body factory workshop and repair manual Covers FJ40,FJ43, FJ45, FJ60, BJ40, BJ 42, BJ43, BJ45, BJ46, BJ60 series and HJ47 and HJ60 series Download on PDF