Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

Goal: replace an exhaust gasket on a Chevrolet Aveo T200 — explained step-by-step for a beginner, with every component described, why it’s needed, how the system works, common failure modes, and safe, practical tips. Read and follow safety notes.

Quick overview (one-line): an exhaust gasket seals the joint between two exhaust parts (usually exhaust manifold-to-downpipe or manifold-to-head). Replace it to stop leaks, noise, emissions problems and sensor errors.

Why this repair is needed (theory, in plain language)
- The exhaust system is a sealed path for hot combustion gases that leaves the engine and goes through the catalytic converter, muffler and tailpipe. Joints between pieces use gaskets to make a gas-tight seal.
- Analogy: the gasket is like the rubber washer in a garden-hose coupling — if it’s worn or missing the water (exhaust gas) sprays out.
- If the gasket leaks, exhaust gases escape before the catalytic converter. Consequences:
- Loud ticking/hissing noise under acceleration.
- Reduced engine performance and fuel economy.
- False oxygen-sensor readings (especially if leak is upstream of the O2 sensor), causing poor air/fuel control and emissions codes.
- Risk of carbon monoxide entering the cabin.
- Heat might damage nearby parts (wiring, hoses, sensors).

Which gasket are we talking about (common locations)
- Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder-head gasket (rare on some small cars if manifold is integral).
- Exhaust manifold flange to catalytic converter/downpipe gasket (most common on Aveo T200).
- Exhaust pipe flange gaskets further back in the exhaust line.
I’ll describe the common job: replacing the gasket between the exhaust manifold/downpipe/catalytic converter flange (front flange gasket).

Parts and components you will see and what they do
- Cylinder head: engine block top where exhaust ports exit.
- Exhaust manifold: cast or tubular metal piece bolted to the head that collects exhaust from cylinders.
- Manifold flange: flat face where manifold bolts to the downpipe/cat or head.
- Downpipe / catalytic converter inlet: the next pipe attached to the manifold; catalytic converter reduces emissions.
- Exhaust gasket (flat metal or multi-layer steel (MLS) ring or pressed seal): sits between flanges and seals gas.
- Bolts / studs / nuts: clamp flanges together. Often threaded studs are in the manifold with nuts on the downpipe.
- Heat shield: thin metal cover protecting nearby parts from manifold heat.
- Oxygen sensor(s): screw into exhaust pipe; upstream O2 sensor monitors combustion and affects fueling.
- Exhaust hangers: rubber mounts that hold exhaust pipes to the body.
- Exhaust sealant / anti-seize (thread compound): used on threads sparingly (follow recommendations).
- Mating surfaces: the two flange faces that must be clean and flat for the gasket to seal.

Tools and supplies (get these before you start)
- New correct exhaust gasket (match part for Aveo T200 engine/displacement/year).
- Replacement bolts/studs/nuts if originals are corroded (high-temp grade).
- Socket set, wrenches, extensions, breaker bar.
- O2 sensor socket (if you’ll remove the oxygen sensor).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench).
- Wire brush, gasket scraper (plastic or brass to avoid gouging), clean rag.
- Torque wrench (important).
- Jack, jack stands (don’t rely on jack alone), wheel chocks, good ramp or lift.
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves, long-sleeve, fire extinguisher nearby.
- Optional: anti-seize on O2 sensor threads (use manufacturer guidance), high-temp anti-seize on bolts if recommended.
- Service manual or online factory specs (for bolt torque and tightening sequence).

Safety first (must-read)
- Work only with the engine fully cold. Exhaust components retain heat for a long time.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Always use jack stands — never work under a car supported by a jack only.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Beware rusted bolts that can snap and create sharp metal.
- If you’re uncomfortable or bolts are badly corroded, consider a shop — cutting or heating bolts can be dangerous.

Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
Follow these steps in order. Assume the gasket is at the front flange where the manifold meets the catalytic converter/downpipe.

1) Preparation
- Let engine cool completely.
- Gather tools and place car securely on jack stands.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you plan to remove O2 sensor or work near wiring (recommended for safety).

2) Locate the gasket and surrounding parts
- From under the car, locate the front exhaust flange (manifold to downpipe/cat). You’ll usually see a heat shield over the manifold and the bolts or nuts on the flange.

3) Access & spray penetrating oil
- Remove any plastic belly pan or splash shield blocking access.
- Spray penetrating oil on all flange bolts/studs and nuts; let it soak 10–20 minutes and reapply if needed. Rusted fasteners are common.

4) Remove heat shield(s)
- Unbolt and set aside the heat shield(s) covering the manifold flange (use a bit of care: heat shield screws can be corroded).

5) Remove oxygen sensor(s) if they block access
- If an O2 sensor sits near the flange, remove it with an O2 sensor socket. Use anti-seize on O2 threads when reinstalling (don’t get anti-seize on the sensor tip). Note: if the sensor is old and seized, apply more penetrating oil and use an appropriate socket and breaker bar.

6) Unbolt the flange
- Loosen and remove the nuts/bolts that clamp the two flanges together. If the manifold uses studs, remove the nuts; if bolts, remove the bolts.
- If a bolt snaps: do not panic. Cut out the head and remove the flange to access the broken stud/broken bolt later — but that’s a more advanced fix. If you snap a stud, the manifold may need to come off and studs drilled/extracted or replaced.

7) Separate flanges and remove old gasket
- Carefully pull the two flanges apart. You may need to pry gently — be careful not to bend the flange faces.
- Remove the old gasket. It may be stuck; use a gasket scraper or wire brush, remove all debris and old gasket material until surfaces are clean and flat.

8) Inspect mating surfaces and manifold
- Check flange faces for warping, deep gouges or cracks. Light surface rust is ok; deep pitting or a warped flange can prevent sealing and usually requires replacement or machining.
- Inspect manifold for cracks (common on cast manifolds) and check downpipe for damage.

9) Clean surfaces
- Use a wire brush and rag to clean both flange faces until shiny/clean. Avoid gouging or grinding away metal. The flange faces must mate evenly.

10) Prepare the new gasket and hardware
- Confirm new gasket matches shape and bolt-hole pattern.
- If using new studs/bolts, install them. Lightly coat bolt threads with anti-seize only if the manufacturer recommends it; some torque specs assume dry threads.

11) Reassemble — gasket placement and initial tightening
- Position the new gasket between the two flanges, align bolt holes.
- Hand-thread bolts or nuts to hold the flanges together. Make sure gasket sits flat and not folded.

12) Torque sequence and final tightening
- Tighten bolts/nuts progressively in a criss-cross pattern from center outward (this ensures even clamping). Do it in passes: snug all lightly, then mid-torque, then final torque.
- Use a torque wrench and factory torque specs. If you don’t have the exact spec, typical exhaust flange fasteners are tightened in the general range of about 20–40 Nm (15–30 ft·lb) depending on size — but you must verify for the Aveo T200 in a service manual. Over-torque can strip threads or snap studs; under-torque causes leaks.
- Example tightening pattern: if there are three bolts, tighten center then outer ones; for four bolts use opposite pairs. Do incremental passes (30%, 60%, 100% torque).

13) Reinstall O2 sensor, heat shield, and other parts
- Reinstall the O2 sensor using proper socket and torque (and small amount of anti-seize on threads if the sensor isn’t pre-coated). Reattach heat shield and any removed hangers or splash shields.

14) Lower car, reconnect battery, start engine, check for leaks
- Start engine and listen for any ticking/hissing at the flange. With a helper, rev engine and check for noise changes.
- You can use a rag on a long stick to feel for a puff of hot gas (do not place hands near hot components). Better: use a smoke test or listen carefully. Also check for exhaust smell inside cabin.
- After a short drive and cooling down, re-check torque if accessible (some recommend retorquing after heat cycles).

How the system behaves after repair and troubleshooting
- If you still hear a leak: retorque bolts, verify gasket orientation, check for warped or cracked flange, or damaged manifold — replacement may be needed.
- If you get O2 sensor codes after repair: a previously leaking gasket may have masked a sensor problem; check wiring and sensor operation.
- If bolts are repeatedly breaking, replace studs/bolts with proper high-temp hardware.

Common things that go wrong and how to handle them
- Seized or snapped studs/bolts: very common on older Aveos. Technique: soak with penetrating oil, use heat carefully (professional shops use heat and extraction tools). If a stud breaks flush, the manifold may have to be removed and the stud extracted or drilled out.
- Warped flange or cracked manifold: gasket won’t seal; manifold or downpipe/cat inlet may need replacement.
- Gasket installed wrong size/type: won’t seal; confirm part number.
- O2 sensor damaged during removal: replace sensor if it’s been overheated or threads are stripped.
- Using improper thread lubricant: can affect torque value and either under- or over-tighten fasteners.

Practical tips & beginner-friendly shortcuts
- Buy a new set of bolts or nuts; exhaust fasteners often corrode and are cheap insurance.
- If rust is severe, consider replacing the manifold/downpipe assembly as a unit rather than fighting rusted fasteners.
- Take pictures before disassembly to remember bolt locations and heat shield orientation.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby if you use heat to free bolts.
- Take it slow and don’t force seized hardware — excessive force can break bolts or strain the manifold.

When to see a professional
- Bolts/studs snap off and are inaccessible.
- Flange is warped, or manifold cracked.
- You don’t have required tools (torque wrench, O2 sensor socket, jack stands).
- You don’t feel comfortable working under car or using heat/cutting tools.

Final checklist before driving
- New gasket installed and bolts torqued in the proper sequence.
- Heat shields reinstalled.
- O2 sensor reinstalled and connected.
- No ticking/hissing at idle and during acceleration.
- No exhaust smell in cabin.
- Short test drive, then recheck bolts if accessible.

That’s the full beginner-level guide to replacing the common exhaust flange gasket on a Chevy Aveo T200, including components, theory, tools, step-by-step actions, common failures and safety notes. Follow service manual torque specs and safety procedures.
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Chevrolet Aveo t200 repair clock

Chevrolet Aveo T200 rear wheelhub replacement || ENG SUB repair #chevrolet #eng_sub This video shows how to change the rear wheelhub (wheelbearing) on Chevrolet Aveo (2002-2011).

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