Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (deep sockets up to 19 mm), ratchet, extensions, universal joint/swivel.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm).
- Breaker bar (½" drive) and long extension.
- 6‑point box/combination wrench set.
- Penetrating oil (WD‑40/PB Blaster).
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional for stuck nuts.
- Heat source (propane torch) — optional, use with caution.
- Stud extractor/bolt puller, left‑hand extractor set.
- Gasket scraper / brass/plastic scraper and wire brush.
- Thread chaser / M8–M12 tap (to clean bolt threads).
- Anti‑seize compound (copper based), high‑temp threadlocker if specified.
- New manifold gasket(s), replacement studs/nuts/bolts (recommended), O2 sensor anti‑seize (or new O2 sensor), EGR gasket if applicable.
- Jack, axle stands or ramp, wheel chocks.
- Catch pan, rags, safety glasses, heat resistant gloves.

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Hot exhaust components cause severe burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle safely on stands or ramps; use chocks.
- Work in a well ventilated area; do not inhale rust/soot.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use caution with torches — keep flammable materials away.
- If using penetrating oil or anti‑seize, follow manufacturer instructions.

Quick notes about the F9Q1 / F9Q2 layout
- These are Renault F9Q 2.2 dCi diesel variants used on some Mitsubishi/partner models. Exhaust manifold bolts/studs tend to seize from heat/corrosion. The manifold usually mates to the cylinder head and feeds the turbocharger (and EGR on some versions). Plan for gasket and fastener replacement.

Step‑by‑step — removal
1. Preparation
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Allow engine to cool fully (overnight recommended).
- Raise front if required and secure on stands.

2. Access & remove obstructing components
- Remove engine cover/plastic shields and any intake piping or airbox parts blocking access to manifold/turbo.
- Remove heat shields over the exhaust manifold and turbo inlet (8–10 mm bolts or nuts). Keep track of fasteners.
- Label and disconnect electrical connectors on sensors (O2/EGT) before unbolting.
- Remove oxygen/temperature sensors from the manifold/turbo inlet using appropriate socket. Protect threads.

3. Disconnect turbo and EGR links
- Disconnect turbocharger inlet pipe from the manifold (gasket at the flange). Support the turbo to avoid hanging on oil/coolant lines.
- If EGR valve or cooler mounts to manifold, unbolt and remove EGR assembly or at least unbolt from manifold and move aside. Cap coolant/oil lines if removed.

4. Apply penetrating oil and prepare fasteners
- Liberally apply penetrating oil to manifold studs/nuts and let soak (30–60 min). Reapply if needed.
- Remove nuts attaching manifold to head using appropriate deep socket and breaker bar. Use impact gun only if safe — impacts can break studs.

5. Remove fasteners and lift manifold
- Remove any bracket bolts securing turbo hoses/lines.
- Remove nuts/studs and carefully remove manifold. It may be stuck; tap lightly with a rubber mallet to break seal.
- Support the turbo/inlet if connected and finish separating manifold from the turbo.

6. Inspect & clean
- Inspect manifold for cracks (look especially at runner junctions and flange). If cracked, replace manifold.
- Inspect studs and threads in the head. If studs are corroded or nuts damaged, replace studs/nuts.
- Clean the head mating surface with a gasket scraper and wire brush. Remove carbon/old gasket without gouging the head.
- Use a thread chaser to clean head threads.

Common removal pitfalls and remedies
- Broken studs: apply penetrating oil, heat the stud (not the head) to expand metal then try removal. If stud snaps, extract with left‑hand extractor or drill and helicoil. If extraction risks head damage, seek machine shop.
- Rounding fasteners: use 6‑point sockets, good fit, and breaker bar. Heat nuts briefly to free if needed.
- Damaging sensors: remove O2/EGT sensors before prying. Mounting threads can be fragile.

Replacement parts & consumables required
- New exhaust manifold gasket (high‑temp metal gasket).
- New turbo inlet gasket (if fitted).
- New manifold-to-head nuts/studs/bolts recommended — heat cycles cause weakening. Replace per size:
- Typical sizes: M8/M10 studs/nuts; replace with OEM spec.
- O2/EGT sensor if damaged or threads compromised.
- New heatshield clips if corroded.
- If manifold cracked — replace manifold.

Step‑by‑step — installation
1. Prepare mating surfaces and studs
- Ensure head mating face is perfectly clean and flat. Remove all debris.
- Install new studs or cleaned OEM studs. Apply small amount of anti‑seize to studs (on threads only where specified). Do not let anti‑seize contaminate head mating surface.
- Fit new manifold gasket.

2. Position manifold
- Place manifold onto studs/head. Install nuts finger tight to hold gasket in place.
- Ensure any EGR ports align; reinstall EGR valve with new gasket if removed.

3. Torque sequence
- Tighten manifold fasteners in a crisscross pattern from center outward in progressive steps:
- Stage 1: tighten to ~30% of final torque.
- Stage 2: tighten to ~60% of final torque.
- Stage 3: tighten to final torque.
- NOTE: Exact torque specs vary by bolt size and model. Typical reference values:
- M8 bolts: ~25–30 Nm
- M10 bolts: ~40–50 Nm
- M12 bolts: ~70–90 Nm
- Turbo flange nuts (small): ~20–35 Nm
Consult factory service manual for exact values for F9Q1/F9Q2 and follow specified sequence.

4. Reconnect turbo, EGR, sensors
- Reattach turbo inlet flange to manifold with new gasket; torque flange nuts evenly.
- Reinstall O2/EGT sensors; if using anti‑seize, apply sparingly to sensor threads (avoid contaminating sensor tip). Many modern sensors come pre‑coated — don’t apply anti‑seize unless specified.
- Reconnect EGR components and any bracketry. Reconnect electrical connectors.

5. Final checks
- Refit heat shields and intake piping.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start engine, check for leaks (listen for leaks, inspect visually for exhaust or boost leaks). After warm‑up, re‑torque if manufacturer specifies.
- Recheck turbo/oil lines for leaks.

Tool usage notes
- Torque wrench: use to achieve final specified torque; tighten in stages as above to avoid warping flange.
- Breaker bar: for initial loosening of seized nuts; use smooth, steady force.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal but can snap studs — use cautiously and back off to finish by hand.
- Penetrating oil + heat: soak first; apply heat to nut/stud only briefly to expand metal if needed. Heating helps but DO NOT overheat near sensors or rubber lines.
- Stud extractor/weld nut technique: if stud head is stripped, weld a nut to the stud and turn it with a socket; only weld if you can control heat and won't damage head.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reusing old gasket(s) — always replace.
- Reusing corroded bolts/studs — they often fail; replace.
- Overheating areas with torch near fuel/oil lines or sensors.
- Over‑torquing fasteners — can warp manifold or strip head threads.
- Leaving oil/grease on gasket surfaces — causes leaks.
- Failing to support turbo when separating — stresses oil lines, may cause leaks.
- Ignoring EGR/cooler removal — can cause misalignment.

Final advice
- Have replacement studs and a spare manifold gasket before starting. Expect seized fasteners and plan extra time.
- If a stud breaks in the head, stop and assess — extracting a broken stud incorrectly can ruin the head; consider professional machine shop help.

Done.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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Job: remove and replace (service) the coolant expansion/overflow tank on a Mitsubishi‑Renault F9Q1 / F9Q2 diesel. Steps, tools, safety, tool use, replacement parts and common pitfalls.

Time estimate: 45–90 minutes (depending on access, corroded clamps, and bleeding method).

Safety
- Work on a cold engine only. Hot coolant/steam will cause severe burns.
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves. Long sleeves recommended.
- Relieve system pressure before opening the cap: allow engine to cool, then slowly open filler cap (cover with rag) to release any residual pressure.
- Catch coolant in a suitable container and dispose of it according to local regulations (ethylene glycol is toxic to people and animals).
- Support the vehicle if you need to get underneath (jack stands). Don’t rely on a jack alone.

Tools and consumables
- Metric socket set and ratchet (common sizes: 8, 10 mm; cheaper vehicles use these).
- Extension bar(s) for ratchet.
- Torque wrench (0–25 Nm range).
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers.
- Hose clamp pliers or long‑nose pliers. Or a screwdriver for worm‑drive clamps.
- Pliers / pry tool to remove plastic clips.
- Drain pan (sized to hold ~5 L).
- Funnel and clean refill container.
- Replacement coolant (Renault‑approved spec — use manufacturer recommended type).
- Replacement expansion tank (OEM or quality aftermarket for F9Q1/F9Q2).
- New hose clamps (recommended) and spare radiator/overflow hoses if old hoses are brittle.
- Replacement O‑ring or gasket for coolant level sensor (if applicable) and new sensor if damaged.
- Brake cleaner or a parts cleaner rag for cleaning mating surfaces.
- Optional: vacuum filler or pressure bleed tool (makes bleeding air faster and cleaner).
- Optional: small brush and anti‑seize/ dielectric grease for sensor threads.

Preparation / inspection
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, remove ignition key.
2. Ensure engine is fully cool. Place drain pan under the passenger side front (radiator drain) or directly under expansion tank if positioned to drain.
3. Inspect tank for cracks, discoloration, sensor(s), and hose connections so you know what you’ll encounter.

Removal — step by step
1. Relieve pressure and remove cap:
- With a cold engine, slowly loosen the expansion tank cap and remove it. This vents the system.

2. Drain or remove some coolant:
- If the tank has a drain petcock, open it into the drain pan. If not, be prepared to loosen lower hose to drain tank contents into pan (have pliers or screwdriver ready).
- You do not have to fully drain the entire cooling system to replace the tank; draining the tank and lower hoses is usually sufficient.

3. Disconnect hoses:
- Identify the inlet/outlet hoses and the overflow hose. Use hose clamp pliers or a screwdriver to loosen worm‑drive clamps.
- Twist hoses gently to break seal, then pull off. If hoses are stuck, use a small flat screwdriver to pry between hose and nipple — be careful not to gouge plastic connectors.
- Cap or plug disconnected hoses to prevent coolant loss and contamination while you work (or angle the tank to drain into the pan).

4. Disconnect electrical connector(s):
- If equipped with coolant level sensor, unplug the electrical connector. Press the locking tab and pull out.
- If sensor is in the tank, be careful when handling — old plastic breaks easily.

5. Remove mounting fasteners:
- Remove the bolts or nuts holding the tank to the body/engine bay (typically 8–10 mm). Use extensions if needed.
- Remove any retaining clips or brackets.

6. Remove tank carefully:
- Lift the tank out of the engine bay. Old tanks can be brittle — support it so it doesn’t crack when lifted.
- If clips/pegs must be released, use a trim tool or screwdriver but protect paint.

Inspect and transfer components
1. Inspect hoses and fittings for wear. Replace any hose that’s soft, swollen or cracked.
2. Transfer sensor and O‑ring to the new tank, or fit a new sensor/O‑ring. Replace O‑ring/gasket on sensor — a worn O‑ring causes leaks.
3. Check mounting hardware and brackets; replace broken clips.

Install new tank
1. Position new tank in place, aligning mounting points.
2. Fit and loosely tighten mounting bolts first, then torque to spec. If you don’t have the exact spec, tighten small plastic bracket bolts gently — typical is 5–10 Nm. Use torque wrench to avoid overtightening plastic.
3. Reconnect hoses:
- Slide hoses fully onto nipples. Install new clamps or reuse good condition clamps and tighten securely (do not overtighten and crush hose).
- For worm clamps: use screwdriver or socket; tighten until clamp is snug and hose cannot be twisted by hand.
- For spring clamps: use pliers to open, slide into position, then release.
4. Reconnect coolant level sensor electrical connector.
5. Clean any spilled coolant and wipe surfaces.

Refill and bleed air
1. Refill with the correct Renault‑approved coolant mixture (generally ethylene glycol based, pre‑mixed or 50:50). Use the specified type for F9Q engines (consult manufacturer specs if available). Use a funnel to reduce spills.
2. If vehicle has a bleed screw on the thermostat housing or head, open it during initial fill to let air escape.
3. Recommended bleed sequence:
- Fill to just below cap level, leave cap off.
- Start engine and set heater full hot and fan on low. Let idle and watch coolant level; as thermostat opens, coolant will circulate and air will escape—top up as needed.
- Squeeze upper radiator hose gently to help dislodge trapped air.
- Once thermostat opens and level stabilizes, close bleed screw (if used).
- Run engine until temperature reaches normal operating temp and check for bubbles. Add coolant until stable and install cap.
- If available, use a vacuum filler: it draws coolant in under vacuum and prevents air pockets — follow tool instructions to pull vacuum and fill until no air present.
4. After initial heat cycle, allow engine to cool and recheck level; top up if necessary.

Checks and finish
1. Inspect for leaks around hoses, sensor, and mounting points while engine at operating temp and after a short test drive.
2. Re-torque clamps and fasteners after final cool down (plastic may seat under heat).
3. Dispose of old coolant properly.

How specific tools are used (quick)
- Ratchet/socket: used to remove mounting bolts and hose bracket bolts; use extension to reach recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench: final tightening of mounting bolts to prevent over‑crushing plastic. Set to low Nm range (5–12 Nm) for small plastic brackets.
- Hose clamp pliers: compress spring clamps and hold while sliding hose on/off. For worm clamps, use a screwdriver or nut driver to loosen/tighten.
- Vacuum filler: attaches to filler neck, evacuates air then draws coolant into the system; follow device instructions — it eliminates most manual bleeding.
- Funnel: prevents spills when refilling the tank.
- Drain pan: catch old coolant when hoses are loosened.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Expansion tank (OEM or high‑quality aftermarket).
- Coolant level sensor O‑ring; sensor (if cracked or faulty).
- Fresh coolant (Renault‑approved).
- Hose clamps (recommended).
- Lower/overflow hoses if brittle or swollen.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Working on a hot engine — severe burn risk.
- Not replacing old brittle hoses and clamps — leads to later leaks.
- Dropping or overtightening mounting bolts — plastic bosses will crack.
- Forgetting to replace sensor O‑ring or damaging sensor wiring.
- Not properly bleeding air — causes overheating, heater loss, and erratic gauge readings.
- Using the wrong coolant type — causes corrosion, deposits and premature failure.
- Overfilling or underfilling — leave correct level when hot/cold per vehicle spec.
- Reusing a cracked tank: visibly hairlined cracks can leak under pressure — replace if in doubt.

Final checks
- After reassembly and bleeding, confirm no leaks, proper temperature rise, and heater operation.
- Re-check coolant level after a couple of heat cycles and after a short road test.

That’s the full technician procedure for replacing/servicing the expansion tank on an F9Q1/F9Q2.
rteeqp73