1) Quick theory summary (read once, refer during steps)
- What the master does: converts pedal push (mechanical) into hydraulic pressure by forcing fluid past a piston & seals into the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. Pressure equals force / piston area and moves the slave to disengage the clutch.
- How it fails: external leaks (hose/line/port) or internal seal/piston failure lets fluid bypass the piston so pressure doesn’t rise. Result = spongy pedal, pedal sinks to floor, poor/no disengagement, fluid loss. Replacing restores a properly sealing piston and fresh seals so hydraulic pressure builds and the clutch disengages reliably.
- Bleeding is necessary because air in the circuit compresses, preventing pressure transmission. Bench-bleeding primes the new cylinder so you don’t pump tons of air into the system.

2) Tools & consumables (concise)
- Socket set, wrenches, screwdriver, pliers, bench vice/soft jaws (optional for bench-bleed)
- Line wrench for hydraulic line
- Small hose + catch bottle, bleed hose
- New master cylinder (correct part), new banjo/crush washers or fittings if applicable
- Correct DOT brake fluid per Nissan spec (DOT3 or DOT4 per vehicle manual)
- Clean rags, gloves, safety glasses

3) Safety & prep (one-line)
- Park level, engine off, handbrake on, wheels chocked, protect painted surfaces from brake fluid (it damages paint).

4) Diagnosis confirmation (short)
- Confirm symptoms: reservoir level dropping or contaminated fluid, visible leak at master or line, pedal sinks to floor or no resistance. If yes → proceed.

Replacement procedure in order (each step with why):
1. Relieve system & remove fluid
- Remove reservoir cap and use a syringe or hose to remove most old fluid into a catch bottle. Why: reduces spill, prevents contamination and reduces fluid loss when disconnecting lines.

2. Access & clear dash area
- Remove any dash or footwell panels blocking access to the master or pushrod/clevis. Why: gives room to work and access the pedal pin.

3. Disconnect hydraulic line(s)
- Place catch bottle below. Using a line wrench, loosen and disconnect the hydraulic line at the master cylinder. Cap or plug the line or immediately clamp a short piece of hose onto the line to limit air entry. Why: separates master from system; plugging reduces air ingress and fluid loss.

4. Remove pushrod/clevis from pedal
- Remove retaining pin/clip connecting the master pushrod to the clutch pedal. Move pedal connection aside. Why: frees master so it can be withdrawn without bending pedal linkage.

5. Unbolt & remove master cylinder
- Remove the mounting bolts through the firewall and withdraw the master from engine bay. Be ready to drain remaining fluid. Why: removes faulty unit.

6. Prepare new master – bench-bleed
- Secure new master in a vise or hold firmly. Install short clear hoses from each outlet back into the master reservoir so each outlet returns to fluid. Fill reservoir with clean fluid. Slowly depress the master piston by hand or with a screwdriver until no bubbles come from the hoses. Repeat until clear. Why: removes internal air and primes the piston/seals so the new master starts building pressure immediately when installed. Without bench-bleeding you pump air into system and bleeding is harder.

7. Install new master
- Position new master through firewall, loosely fit mounting bolts, align pushrod with pedal (do not attach pushrod yet). Torque bolts to manufacturer spec if available. Why: correct seating prevents leaks and ensures correct pushrod geometry.

8. Reconnect hydraulic line(s)
- Fit the hydraulic line using new crush washers if banjo fitting or new sealing washers/line fittings as required. Tighten to proper snugness. Why: prevents leaks at the high-pressure connection which would cause loss of pressure.

9. Attach pushrod/clevis to pedal
- Fit the clevis pin and secure clip. Set initial pedal free play per spec (a few mm of free travel). Why: correct free play ensures full release and prevents dragging or incomplete disengagement.

10. Fill reservoir
- Top up reservoir with specified DOT fluid to proper level. Keep cap loosely replaced during bleeding. Why: needed to supply fluid while removing air.

11. Bleed the clutch hydraulic circuit (in order)
- Use one of these correct methods:
a) Two-person: helper presses pedal several times and holds; you open the slave bleeder nipple to let fluid/air out, close nipple, helper releases, repeat until no bubbles.
b) One-person pump-and-hold: pump pedal repeatedly, hold, open bleeder, close, release, repeat until clear.
c) Vacuum or pressure bleeder: connect and run until no bubbles.
- Always keep reservoir topped. Continue until clear, firm pedal feel is achieved and no bubbles exit. Why: air removal is essential because air compresses and prevents transmission of hydraulic pressure; you need a full column of incompressible fluid from master to slave.

12. Check for leaks & pedal function
- Inspect all connections under pressure for leaks. With engine off, cycle pedal and observe slave actuation and pedal return. Adjust pedal free play if required to spec. Why: ensures system integrity and correct mechanical geometry.

13. Final checks & road test
- Start vehicle (if necessary for certain slave types) and test clutch engagement/shiftability in a safe area. Recheck fluid level and for leaks after a short drive. Why: ensures the repair restored correct pressure under real load.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Fault: master cylinder internal seal or piston failure lets fluid bypass, so force on the pedal does not translate into hydraulic pressure; external leaks let fluid escape.
- Replacement: installs a new piston and seals that form a tight chamber. When the pedal pushes the piston, fluid cannot bypass and is forced through the line to the slave, producing pressure that moves the slave and disengages the clutch. Bench-bleeding removes air and ensures the new seals operate with a continuous fluid column. Reconnecting with new washers/fittings prevents leaks that would otherwise bleed off pressure.

Common signs to verify success
- Firm, non-sinking pedal; no pedal travel to floor under load; no clutch drag or incomplete disengagement; stable fluid level; no visible leaks.

Notes (brief)
- Use correct brake fluid type per vehicle manual. Do not let fluid contact paint. Dispose of old fluid properly.
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