Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Mitsubishi Renault F9Q1 F9Q2 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first (very short)
- Disconnect battery, block wheels, use jack stands (never rely on a jack), wear eye protection and gloves, work on a flat level surface, have a fire extinguisher nearby.

- What “synchro replacement” means and why you might need it
- Synchronizer (synchro) = the assembly that equalizes gear and shaft speed so gears engage smoothly; typically includes brass/sintered friction rings, steel hub, sliding sleeve, springs and small components.
- When required: grinding or crunching on shifts, hard-to-select gears, pop-out of gear, noticeable wear grooves on synchro rings, metal contamination in gearbox oil, or excessive play in gear selection.
- If the rings are worn, the hub/sleeve or keys/springs are damaged, or bearings/seals are bad, partial or full gearbox rebuild (replacement of all worn parts) is recommended.

- Overview of the job (high-level)
- Remove gearbox from car, disassemble gearbox case, remove shafts/gears, remove worn synchro rings and related components, inspect shafts/gears/bearings, replace synchro rings and any damaged bearings/seals/hubs, clean and reassemble with correct clearances and torque, reinstall gearbox, refill with correct gearbox oil, test drive.

- Tools you’ll need (bulleted, with what each is and how to use it)
- Floor or trolley jack
- What: heavy-duty hydraulic jack for lifting the car.
- How to use: place on manufacturer jacking points, lift smoothly; never work under supported only by jack—always use stands.
- Why: to access/remove gearbox/driveshafts.

- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) and wheel chocks
- What: adjustable stands to hold the car safely.
- How to use: lower car onto stands after jacking, chock opposite wheels.
- Why: safety—keeps vehicle stable while you work underneath.

- Transmission jack (or a second floor jack + strong timber)
- What: jack designed to support/raise/lower a transmission.
- How to use: center under gearbox, secure gearbox to the jack with strap, lower/raise while guiding gearbox.
- Why: needed to safely remove/rehang heavy gearbox; essential if you’re solo.

- Metric socket and spanner set (6–24 mm typical)
- What: sockets, ratchet, extension bars, combination wrenches.
- How to use: choose correct size, use breaker bar for stuck bolts, hand-tighten with torque wrench to final spec.
- Why: remove bellhousing bolts, gearbox bolts, driveshaft nuts, etc.

- Torque wrench (range ~10–200 Nm)
- What: wrench that applies set torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten in correct sequence to spec.
- Why: reuse critical fasteners to factory torque; prevents stripped bolts or failures.

- Breaker bar
- What: long-handled non-ratcheting bar for high leverage.
- How to use: use to break loose tight bolts before using the torque wrench for final tightening.
- Why: frees seized/over-torqued bolts safely.

- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and Torx/Allen keys
- What: general fastener tools.
- How to use: match tip to fastener, avoid cam-out.
- Why: small covers, linkage fasteners, electrical connectors.

- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint) and adjustable pliers
- What: gripping and manipulating small components.
- How to use: use appropriate jaw, avoid twisting brittle parts.
- Why: remove clips, hoses, cable ends.

- Circlip/snap-ring pliers (internal and external)
- What: pliers with tips that fit into circlip holes.
- How to use: compress or expand circlip and remove/install carefully.
- Why: many gearbox parts are retained by circlips; incorrect pliers will damage rings and bores.

- Gear puller / two- or three-jaw puller
- What: pulls gears, hubs or bearings off shafts.
- How to use: center puller on shaft end, engage jaws behind part, turn center bolt slowly to pull part off; use penetrating oil and heat if needed.
- Why: gears/hubs often press-fit and need controlled pulling force.

- Bearing puller / slide hammer (or press for large bearings)
- What: specialized pullers for bearings.
- How to use: attach to bearing inner/outer and extract with steady force.
- Why: removing pressed bearings without damage.

- Arbor press or hydraulic press (recommended)
- What: bench press for pressing bearings/gears on/off shafts.
- How to use: support shaft and use correct diameter mandrels/receivers; press slowly and evenly; don’t press on housings.
- Why: controlled pressing avoids damaging shafts/gears—very important for reassembly and bearing life.

- Bench vise with soft jaws (brass or nylon) and drift/punch set
- What: hold shafts and apply gentle driving force.
- How to use: protect shaft in soft jaws; use drift to tap items on/off with a hammer.
- Why: smaller press operations, soft jaws prevent marring.

- Rubber or dead-blow hammer, brass/nylon hammer
- What: non-marring hammers.
- How to use: tap gently to free parts without causing dents.
- Why: avoid damage to precision parts.

- Seal puller, gasket scraper, wire brush
- What: tools to remove old seals and gasket material.
- How to use: carefully pry old seals and scrape flat surfaces clean without gouging.
- Why: proper sealing on reassembly to avoid leaks.

- Clean containers / drain pan / rags / brake cleaner or parts cleaner
- What: for draining gearbox oil and cleaning parts.
- How to use: catch oil, degrease components, dry parts before reassembly.
- Why: cleanliness is essential—the gearbox is intolerant to contamination.

- Dial caliper and micrometer
- What: measure shaft/journal diameters, thickness of synchro rings and wear limits.
- How to use: measure to 0.01 mm precision; compare to service limits.
- Why: determine if parts are within spec or need replacement.

- Feeler gauges
- What: measure small gaps/clearances.
- How to use: check clearances between sleeve and hub as per manual.
- Why: ensures correct endplay/mesh; prevents premature wear.

- Magnetic tray / parts organizer and labels / camera
- What: hold small bolts and parts, label baggies, take photos at each step.
- How to use: organize and document each part order and location.
- Why: avoids losing/reinstalling parts incorrectly—critical for complex gearboxes.

- Threadlocker (e.g., Loctite blue) and anti-seize
- What: adhesives for fasteners.
- How to use: apply small amount where specified by manual.
- Why: prevents bolts loosening; anti-seize prevents galling on studs.

- Replacement parts (see list below) and appropriate lubricant (gearbox oil)
- What: exact synchronizer kit for your gearbox, seals, bearings, gaskets and correct gear oil.
- How to use: fit new parts exactly as described in the service manual; fill with correct quantity and grade oil.
- Why: worn parts must be replaced for longevity and function.

- Parts commonly replaced during a synchro job (why and what to buy)
- Synchro rings (friction cones)
- Why: they wear rapidly where clutch faces contact gear cones; worn rings cause grinding/hard shifts.
- What to buy: a correct kit for the F9Q gearbox (OEM or high-quality aftermarket); typically sold per-gear or as a full kit.

- Hub and sleeve (synchronizer hub and sliding collar)
- Why: wear or scoring reduces engagement and can allow the sleeve to jam or slip.
- What to buy: replace if scored, worn teeth, or excessive wear; often sold in kits.

- Springs, keys, and small internal items (usually included in synchro kits)
- Why: these small parts can be easily damaged and are cheap insurance.
- What to buy: full synchro kit that includes springs and retainers.

- Bearings (input, output, layshaft)
- Why: worn bearings cause play, noise, and can misalign synchro engagement; often replace while gearbox is apart.
- What to buy: replace with OEM or reputable brand bearings; measure and match sizes.

- Seals and gaskets (mainshaft seal, output seals, case gasket)
- Why: seal failure causes leaks and contamination.
- What to buy: full gasket/seal set for gearbox.

- Shift forks (if bent or worn)
- Why: worn fork tips cause poor engagement and sleeve wear.
- What to buy: replace (or refinish) if wear is visible; forks are relatively inexpensive but critical.

- Oil (correct spec manual transmission fluid)
- Why: correct viscosity and additives are necessary for synchro function and bearing life.
- What to buy: check factory spec for F9Q gearbox oil grade and capacity.

- Full gearbox rebuild kit (often worthwhile)
- Why: if the gearbox has significant wear, a full rebuild kit (synchros, bearings, seals) saves repeat labor.
- What to buy: kit matched to gearbox model code—get the exact F9Q1/F9Q2 kit.

- Important measurements and inspection points (what to check)
- Inspect synchro rings for heavy wear, glazing, or missing teeth; compare thickness to new ring spec.
- Check hub and sleeve for scoring, broken teeth, or ovality.
- Measure shaft journals for wear or pitting with micrometer.
- Check bearing play and noise by hand; replace if rough or excessive play.
- Inspect gears for chipped teeth or scoring.
- Check endfloat/axial play on shafts with feeler gauges or dial indicator.

- General step sequence (concise, not replacing a service manual)
- Drain gearbox oil and remove ancillary items that block removal (exhaust, heat shields, crossmembers as needed).
- Support gearbox with transmission jack, disconnect linkage/clutch slave or release bearing, remove driveshafts/axles.
- Unbolt gearbox from engine and lower gearbox carefully.
- Mount gearbox in a clean workspace/bench; remove case bolts and separate halves.
- Remove shafts and gears, documenting order and orientation (photo each step).
- Remove synchro assemblies (snap rings, hubs, sleeves, rings). Use circlip pliers, pullers, press as needed.
- Clean all parts in parts cleaner; inspect and measure.
- Replace worn parts (synchro rings, bearings, seals, forks as required).
- Reassemble with correct shims, clearances, and torque specs from the factory service manual.
- Refit gearbox to vehicle, reconnect clutch/linkage, fill with specified oil and run-through checks.

- Why some extra/harder tools are required (press, dial gauge, transmission jack)
- Arbor/hydraulic press: pressing bearings and gears requires steady, centered force; hammering damages shafts and components.
- Dial indicator: to measure endfloat and runout to factory tolerances—guarantees correct operation.
- Transmission jack: gearbox is heavy and awkward; without it you risk dropping the gearbox and causing injury or damage.

- Tips for a complete beginner (practical, no fluff)
- Get the factory service manual for the exact F9Q1/F9Q2 gearbox—torques, clearances and part numbers are specific and essential.
- Buy a complete synchro/rebuild kit rather than piecemeal rings if multiple gears show wear—labor is the expensive part.
- Work methodically: bag and label fasteners and parts, and take photos at every step for reassembly.
- If you lack a press, consider sending shafts/gear sets to a machine shop for bearing/press work rather than risking damage.
- If you’re unsure about measuring wear limits or fitting bearings, a professional rebuild is safer and often cost-effective.

- When to consider replacing the whole gearbox or getting professional help
- Multiple gears have damage, shafts are scored, or bearings are badly worn—repair costs may approach replacement cost.
- You don’t have a press, accurate measuring tools, or a safe place to lift and support the car—byeond-skill safety.
- If you can’t get the exact parts/kits for F9Q variants, a professional can source and fit correct components.

- Quick parts checklist to order before starting (minimum)
- Synchro kit(s) for F9Q1/F9Q2 (confirm gearbox code)
- Bearing kit for input/output/layshaft
- Seal and gasket set
- Correct spec gearbox oil
- Circlips/springs (often in kit)
- Threadlocker and assembly grease

- Final safety note (one line)
- If unsure at any stage, stop and consult the factory manual or a qualified transmission specialist—incorrect assembly can create unsafe driving conditions.

(End — follow the factory manual for torque and clearance specs for the F9Q1/F9Q2; this answer omits exact torque/clearance numbers for safety and because they are model-specific.)
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions