Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set (including deep sockets), combination wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Torque wrench (accurate to required torque range).
- Snap‑ring pliers.
- Bearing puller or two/three‑jaw puller.
- Hydraulic/bench press (for bearing removal/installation) or suitable bearing driver set and arbor.
- Drift punches, soft‑face mallet.
- Feeler gauges, straight edge.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for endplay/runout checks).
- Plastigauge (for journal clearance check) or micrometer and bore gauge.
- Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, degreaser.
- High‑temperature grease, engine oil, assembly lube.
- Seal installer or socket sized to outer diameter of seal.
- Threadlocker (medium strength), anti‑seize.
- Lifting gear (engine crane or hoist) if whole gearbox/assembly must be removed.
- New parts/consumables: crankshaft (or journals if regrind), main/rod bearings, oil seals, snap rings, gaskets, bolts/studs as required, key(s) for sprockets/pulleys, O‑rings.

Safety precautions (must do)
- Park tractor on level ground, block wheels, disconnect battery and remove PTO driveline before working on baler.
- Wear eye/hand protection, steel‑toe boots. Keep clothing clear of moving parts.
- Support baler securely on stands if lifting a gearbox or frame section. Never work under an unsupported assembly.
- Relieve stored energy from springs/balers (knotter/tension springs) per factory procedure before disassembly.
- Use lifting gear rated for load. Get assistance when handling heavy parts.

High‑level scope & notes
- The MF20 baler “crankshaft” commonly refers to the plunger/throw crank assembly in the plunger gearbox. Procedure below covers removal, inspection and replacement of that crankshaft and associated bearings/seals. Refer to the MF20 service manual for exact torque specs and exploded view; use factory torque figures when available.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park and secure tractor/baler; disconnect PTO/drive.
- Clean area around plunger/gearbox to prevent contamination.
- Drain gearbox/plunger oil into a clean container; inspect for metal debris.

2) Remove external components
- Remove plunger guard, top cover, and any belt/chain/pulley that blocks access to gearbox.
- Remove plunger assembly (if required) by unbolting connecting rods from the crank throws. Mark rod/rod cap positions to maintain orientation.

3) Remove gearbox/cover
- Unbolt gearbox end covers. Support cover as you remove bolts to prevent damage to dowels.
- Inspect inside for wear; photograph positions for reassembly.

4) Free crankshaft from linkage
- Loosen and remove retaining nuts/bolts, keys and circlips that retain pulleys, sprockets, or flywheel on the crankshaft.
- Use puller on pulley/flywheel if needed; apply penetrating oil and work evenly to avoid damaging shaft.

5) Remove bearings/seals and extract crankshaft
- Remove snap rings and bearing carriers. Use puller or press to push bearings off the shaft into the gearbox or out of housings per layout.
- If bearings are in pressed housings, use puller on the inner race or press to extract assemblies.
- Withdraw crankshaft straight out; support on clean rags to avoid nicks.

6) Inspect crankshaft and mating parts
- Clean crankshaft and journals with solvent. Inspect for scoring, pitting, discoloration, or cracks.
- Measure journal diameters with micrometer and compare to specification. Measure housing bores or bearing shells. If journals are worn beyond limits, replace crankshaft or arrange for machining to undersize with matched bearings.
- Check keyways, threads and thrust surfaces for wear.
- Inspect connecting rods, rod bushings/bearings and mating bores. Replace any bearing shells that show wear, flattening, or heat discoloration.
- Inspect seals and replace all oil seals and gaskets.

7) Prepare replacement parts
- If installing a new crankshaft, verify fitment and that oil holes align.
- Replace bearings with correct type and orientation. Match bearing halves left/right and install new thrust washers if used.
- Clean parts and pre‑lubricate journals with assembly lube.

8) Reinstall bearings and crankshaft
- Press new bearings onto shaft or into housing using a press or correct driver; press on the bearing outer race into housing or inner race onto shaft as appropriate—do not press on the rolling elements.
- Position crankshaft into housing carefully; ensure thrust faces engage correctly.
- Install snap rings/circlips and check axial clearance (endplay) with dial indicator. Adjust thrust washers or shims to meet factory endplay spec.
- When seating bearings in housings, ensure housings/bolts are clean and use torque wrench for cap bolts to factory spec.

9) Check clearances
- Use Plastigauge across journals and bearings to verify clearance if required. Replace bearings if clearance out of spec.
- Check runout of crankshaft with dial indicator at a known point; excessive runout indicates bent shaft—replace.
- Verify oiling holes align and that bearings receive oil.

10) Reassemble linkage and covers
- Refit flywheel/pulley and install keys and fasteners using threadlocker where specified. Torque to factory spec.
- Install new oil seals with proper driver; avoid cocking the lip.
- Replace gaskets and torque cover bolts in proper sequence.
- Reattach plunger connecting rods, keeping rod caps in original orientation; torque rod bolts to spec and check plunger free travel.

11) Final assembly & fill fluids
- Reinstall guards, belts, chains and any removed components.
- Refill gearbox with correct oil type and capacity.
- Reconnect PTO driveline.

12) Test run
- Rotate by hand first to ensure free movement and no interference.
- Start baler slowly (without load) and monitor for oil leaks, abnormal noises or vibration.
- Recheck torque on accessible fasteners after initial run‑in period.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Ignoring service manual specs: Always use factory torque and clearance figures. Improvising causes premature failure.
- Damaging journals during removal/installation: Use proper pullers/press and wood/soft jaws when lifting. Never hammer directly on journals.
- Reusing bearings/seals: Always replace bearings and oil seals when crankshaft is removed.
- Improper bearing orientation or mismatched halves: Note bearing stampings and orientation; mix‑matching causes oil starvation.
- Incorrect endplay: Too little endplay causes binding and heat; too much causes axial movement and noise. Set to spec with shims/thrust washers.
- Contaminants: Work cleanly. Dirt and metal debris ruin bearings quickly.
- Not checking runout or straightness: Bent crankshaft causes vibration, wear and failure.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing hardware: Use a calibrated torque wrench.

Replacement parts typically required
- Main/rod bearing shells (new set).
- Oil seals for both ends of the crankshaft.
- Gaskets and O‑rings for gearbox covers.
- Keys, snap rings, and possibly new bolts/studs (if stretched or corroded).
- Crankshaft (if journals are beyond repair), or journal regrind to undersize with matched bearings.
- Thrust washers/shims as needed.

How specific tools are used
- Bearing puller/press: Remove and install bearings cleanly without damaging races. Use the press for even force; use driver sized to race outer diameter when pressing into housing.
- Snap‑ring pliers: Compress/expand circlips for safe removal/installation.
- Dial indicator: Measure axial endplay and radial runout; mount on solid reference and rotate shaft slowly.
- Plastigauge: Place across journal, assemble cap lightly, torque to spec, then remove and measure crushed width to determine clearance.
- Seal installer/socket: Drive seal squarely into bore without distorting lip.

Finish
- Keep detailed notes of parts replaced and measured clearances for future service.
- Dispose of used oil and bearings per local regulations.

Done.
rteeqp73

MF 20 Baler & MF 575 tractor Tim Poulter's Old Massey baler and tractor in action August 2021 in Great Raveley, being driven by Alec Glover.

Classic massey ferguson 135 working roto burier Making the old girl work hard!

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