- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Clean gloves (nitrile or latex)
- Protects hands from dirt and sharp edges. Put them on before starting and discard if torn.
- Safety glasses
- Protects eyes from dust/debris when opening the air box or tapping out the old filter. Wear them throughout.
- Flat-blade screwdriver (medium)
- Long straight tip, used to pry open plastic clips gently and to turn flat-head hose clamps. How to use: place tip in clip slot or under clamp tab, apply steady leverage away from the plastic to lift — don’t gouge the plastic.
- Phillips screwdriver (PH2)
- For cross-head screws on some air box fasteners. How to use: seat the tip fully in the screw, keep steady downward pressure and turn clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.
- Socket wrench (ratchet), 1/4" or 3/8" drive
- Main turning tool for nuts/bolts. How to use: attach correct socket, push the small lever on ratchet to set direction, hold the handle and swivel wrist to turn. Use an extension if the bolt is recessed.
- Metric socket set (common sizes 7mm–13mm)
- Many air box fasteners and hose clamps on Mitsubishi/Renault F9Q engines use 7mm, 8mm, 10mm or 13mm sockets. How to use: pick the snug-fit socket, attach to ratchet and turn. Avoid using an oversized socket to prevent rounding bolts.
- Long extension bar (3–6 inches)
- Helps reach bolts in tight spaces under the intake. How to use: attach between socket and ratchet to reach recessed screws.
- Pliers (slip-joint or needle-nose)
- For squeezing spring-style clamps or removing small clips. How to use: position jaws on clamp ends, squeeze to compress and slide clamp away from joint; for clips, pinch and pull upward.
- Soft brush or lint-free cloth
- For wiping away dirt around the air box mouth. How to use: brush debris away from filter opening before opening to avoid dropping dirt into the intake.
- Torch or work light
- To see inside engine bay and air box. How to use: position to illuminate the air box while leaving both hands free.
- Optional but recommended: MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor cleaner (electronic parts cleaner)
- If your car has a MAF sensor in the intake tube near the air filter, it can be cleaned carefully. Use only dedicated MAF cleaner; do not touch the sensor element. Spray per instructions and allow to dry fully before reassembly.
- Optional: replacement clamps or plastic clips
- Cheap spares in case factory clamps or clips break during removal. How to use: replace broken clip with new one; for hose clamps, tighten with screwdriver or socket until snug.
- Disposable bag or container for old filter and debris
- For tidy disposal.

- Parts that may need replacing and why
- Air filter element (required)
- Purpose: filters dust and debris from intake air. Replace because it becomes clogged over time, reducing airflow and engine efficiency. Get the correct filter labeled for your vehicle (search by car VIN, model/year or “Renault F9Q air filter / Mitsubishi with F9Q1/F9Q2 engine”). OEM or high-quality aftermarket equivalent is fine.
- Air box clips or screws (possible)
- Why: plastic clips can become brittle and break when opened. Bring spare clips if you suspect old ones are brittle.
- Intake hose or foam seals (possible)
- Why: cracked or collapsed intake hoses or deteriorated seals allow unfiltered air past the filter; replace if damaged.
- MAF sensor (rare)
- Why: if the MAF is damaged or contaminated and cleaning doesn’t help, replacement is required. Usually not needed just for filter change.

- Preparations before starting
- Park on level ground, engine off, parking brake on, keys out. Wait until the engine is cool if recently run.
- Have all tools and new filter nearby. Work in daylight or with a light.
- Note location of any vacuum lines or electrical connectors you will disturb (take a quick photo with your phone if unsure).

- How to change the air filter on a Mitsubishi/Renault F9Q1/F9Q2 (step-by-step in logical order)
- Locate the air box: usually a rectangular black plastic box at the top or side of the engine with an intake tube leading to it. The air filter sits inside.
- Clean area around the air box opening with the brush/cloth so dirt won't fall in when you open it.
- Identify and undo fasteners holding the air box lid:
- If there are metal hose clamps on the intake tube, loosen the clamp screw with the flat-head screwdriver or appropriate socket until the clamp can slide back.
- If there are plastic clips, pry up the clip heads gently with the flat-blade screwdriver or unclip by hand if they’re push-type.
- If there are bolts/screws, use the ratchet with the matching socket or the Phillips screwdriver to remove them.
- Lift off the air box lid carefully:
- Support the lid so it doesn’t fall or pull on connected sensors.
- If a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is mounted to the lid or intake tube, disconnect the electrical connector first: depress the clip on the connector and pull gently — do not pull on wires.
- Remove the old air filter:
- Lift straight up; note the filter orientation and seating.
- Inspect the inside of the air box for heavy dirt, leaves, oil, or large debris. Remove debris with cloth or vacuum if available.
- Inspect the filter and surrounding components:
- If the filter is dark, clogged, or the pleats are crushed/damaged, it needs replacement.
- Check the rubber seating/foam gasket on the box for cracks or deformation — replace if compromised.
- Inspect the intake hose and clamps for cracks or looseness; replace if needed.
- (Optional) Clean the MAF sensor if accessible:
- Unplug connector, remove the MAF (usually 2 screws). Spray MAF cleaner on the sensing wires/plate per cleaner instructions; do not touch wires. Let dry completely before reinstalling.
- Install the new air filter:
- Place the new element in the air box in the same orientation. Ensure the filter seals fully around the edges — the gasket should sit evenly.
- Refit the air box lid, reconnecting any MAF or electrical connectors first if removed.
- Re-secure clips, screws and hose clamps:
- Tighten hose clamps until snug; do not overtighten plastic parts. Tighten bolts/screws to firm hand-tight plus a small turn — excessive torque can strip plastic.
- Replace any broken clips with new ones.
- Final checks:
- Make sure no tools or rags are left in the engine bay.
- Start the engine and listen for abnormal intake noises or hissing which indicates a poor seal.
- Verify the airbox sits flush and the intake hose is secure.

- How to use the tools safely and effectively while doing the job
- Use a snug-fitting socket or screwdriver to avoid rounding fasteners; if a screw resists, switch to the correct size rather than forcing.
- When using a ratchet, use short controlled movements rather than jerking to avoid slipping.
- When prying clips, lever gently and incrementally — plastic breaks when forced.
- For hose clamps, tighten until the clamp is flat and snug against the hose; stop when hose doesn’t move under pressure.
- Keep hands clear of hot engine parts; wait for cool before working.

- Troubleshooting and additional notes
- If the new filter doesn’t fit flush, verify you bought the correct part — do not force it; wrong filters can allow bypass of dirty air.
- If you find oil on the filter (diesel engines sometimes have turbo blow-by/PCV oil), inspect turbo hoses and crankcase ventilation for leaks — clean the area and monitor.
- If the engine runs poorly after reassembly, check that the MAF connector is plugged in and the airbox is sealed.
- Replacement interval: typically every 12,000–24,000 miles (20,000–40,000 km) or per owner’s manual; more often in dusty conditions.

- Estimated time and difficulty
- Time: about 15–30 minutes for a beginner.
- Difficulty: easy — basic mechanical skills and the listed tools are sufficient.

- Final disposal
- Put the old filter in a plastic bag and dispose according to local waste rules (many garages accept used filters).

No extra questions.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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