- Safety first (read this before you start)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe shoes. Work on a flat level surface, engine cold, parking brake on, wheels chocked. If you’re unsure at any point, have a professional finish the job.

- Overview of the job
- You are replacing or installing a front-mounted intercooler (FMIC) or upgrading the existing intercooler piping on a Mitsubishi Delica L300. The main tasks: remove bumper/obstructions, fit intercooler core, route and fit pipes and silicone couplers from turbo outlet to intake, secure brackets, reassemble, and pressure-test for boost leaks. Depending on the exact Delica L300 model/year and whether it currently has an intercooler, you may need trimming, bracket fabrication, or relocation of the A/C condenser or oil cooler.

- Tools you’ll need (each tool explained and how to use it)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric sizes 8–19 mm likely)
- Description: ratchet handle with interchangeable sockets and extensions.
- Use: pick the socket that fits the bolt head, put it on the ratchet, use the extension for deep bolts. Turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Use steady force; use a breaker bar for stubborn bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: wrench that clicks at a preset torque.
- Use: set the torque value to manufacturer spec, tighten bolt until the wrench clicks to avoid under- or over-tightening critical fasteners (use for intercooler mount bolts and piping flange bolts).
- Combination wrenches (open-end/box-end, metric)
- Description: hand wrenches for bolts/nuts in tight spaces.
- Use: hold a nut while you turn the bolt with a socket, or use in confined places where a ratchet won’t fit.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: various heads for screws and clips.
- Use: remove plastic trim screws, hose clamps with slotted heads, and pry loose snap clips gently.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Description: gripping tools for clamps and hoses.
- Use: pinch spring clamps, pull vacuum lines, and hold small items while you work.
- Hose clamp pliers (or regular pliers if unavailable)
- Description: pliers designed to compress spring-type hose clamps.
- Use: compress and slide off spring clamps; if using worm-gear clamps, use screwdriver or socket to loosen/tighten.
- Hacksaw and/or tubing cutter
- Description: manual saw for metal/plastic; tubing cutter for clean cuts on thin-wall piping.
- Use: trim metal tabs or plastic bumper supports, cut pipes to length if required. Make controlled, measured cuts and deburr edges.
- Angle grinder with cutting wheel and flap disc (optional but common)
- Description: powered tool for cutting and grinding metal; rough and fast.
- Use: cut and shape brackets or bumper supports faster than a hacksaw. Wear eye and ear protection; secure parts before cutting.
- Electric drill with drill bits and step-drill bit
- Description: portable drill and bits.
- Use: drill mounting holes for intercooler brackets or pop-rivet holes. Start with a pilot bit then step up to final size for clean holes.
- Pop rivet gun (hand riveter)
- Description: pulls rivets to join thin panels.
- Use: attach lightweight brackets or trim where bolts aren’t suitable.
- Files and deburring tool
- Description: hand tools to clean sharp edges.
- Use: remove burrs after cutting metal to prevent cuts and seal failures.
- Measuring tape and marker (or scribe)
- Description: for measuring and marking cut/bolt locations.
- Use: measure twice, cut once; mark mounting points and pipe runs.
- Jack and axle stands
- Description: hydraulic jack for lifting vehicle; stands to support it safely.
- Use: lift the front of the vehicle at manufacturer jack points, place stands under secure support points, lower jack until car rests on stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Work light
- Description: bright portable lamp.
- Use: illuminates tight spaces while working.
- Shop towels and solvent (degreaser)
- Description: cleans parts and surfaces.
- Use: remove oil/grime from mating surfaces for a good seal.
- Silicone hose cutter or sharp utility knife
- Description: for trimming silicone couplers cleanly.
- Use: cut couplers to the correct length; make square cuts for proper clamping.
- Boost leak tester or an air compressor with adjustable regulator and fitting (recommended)
- Description: device to pressurize intercooler system and find leaks.
- Use: pressurize the installed piping and core at moderate pressure and listen/soapy-spray for leaks to fix them before driving.

- Extra tools you might need (why they may be required)
- Welder (MIG/TIG) — required if you fabricate permanent custom brackets or weld pipe flanges for strength.
- Metal brake or bender — helpful to create neat bracket bends if you’re making custom mounts.
- Bench vise — to hold pipe or brackets steady while cutting or drilling.
- Angle finder or digital level — to align intercooler for correct fitment and clearance.
- Grinder with flap disc — speeds trimming of bumper or metal and smooths edges after modification.

- Parts required and why (replacement parts, and when they’re needed)
- Intercooler core (FMIC)
- Why: core cools compressed intake air to increase density. Replace if original is damaged, corroded, or you are upgrading for more cooling and power.
- Intercooler piping kit (mandrel-bent aluminium piping)
- Why: replaces restrictive or damaged OEM piping for smoother airflow. Kit routing should match Delica piping path (turbo → intercooler → intake).
- Silicone couplers (thick-walled, high-temp) and T-bolt clamps
- Why: provide flexible sealed connections between pipes and fittings. T-bolt clamps give even clamping pressure and resist slipping—recommended over cheap worm clamps for boost applications.
- Mounting brackets and hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, spacers)
- Why: secure intercooler core; OEM brackets may not fit an aftermarket core, so you might need new brackets or fabricate them.
- Replacement bolts and rivets (stainless or galvanized)
- Why: old fasteners corroded or damaged during disassembly should be replaced for safety and longevity.
- Intake hose and vacuum lines (if aged)
- Why: old rubber can crack under boost; replace to avoid leaks.
- Gaskets/seals (if any flanged connections present)
- Why: maintain airtight connections at flanged joints.
- Foam/air-dam material and zip-ties
- Why: to duct air properly to the intercooler core for best efficiency.
- New bumper clips/trim fasteners (plastic)
- Why: these commonly break during bumper removal.

- When part replacement is required (short reasons)
- Corroded or damaged intercooler core: replace because leaks reduce boost and allow hot air in.
- Cracked or soft silicone hoses: replace because they’ll leak or blow off under boost.
- Bent/damaged piping: replace to prevent airflow restriction and leaks.
- Missing/damaged mounting brackets or fasteners: replace or fabricate to securely mount the core.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise, beginner-oriented)
- Prepare workspace and vehicle: park on level ground, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal for safety, raise front with jack and place stands if you need access under bumper.
- Remove obstructing body panels and bumper: use screwdrivers and socket set to remove bumper bolts and plastic clips. Keep fasteners organized in a tray.
- Assess existing intercooler/piping layout: note turbo outlet location and intake manifold connection, take photos for reference.
- Remove old intercooler or piping if present: loosen clamps, remove hoses; use penetrating oil on rusted bolts and a breaker bar if necessary. Protect electrical connectors and sensors.
- Mock-fit new intercooler core in front of radiator/A‑C condenser: position to ensure clearance from radiator, fan, and A/C condenser. You may need to create or adapt brackets.
- Fabricate or fit brackets: measure mounting points, mark holes, drill pilot holes, and mount brackets. Use washers and lock nuts. If welding is required and you don’t have skills, have a fabrication shop do it.
- Route piping from turbo outlet → intercooler inlet → intercooler outlet → throttle/intake
- Mock-fit full pipe lengths before tightening clamps.
- Ensure smooth bends, avoid sharp kinked angles, and keep piping away from hot exhaust components.
- Fit silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps loosely for final alignment.
- Trim bumper or shroud if necessary for clearance: mark and trim slowly, check fit repeatedly. Deburr edges.
- Tighten and torque all fasteners: follow torque wrench use; tighten clamps incrementally and evenly to avoid pinching couplers.
- Reconnect sensors and vacuum lines: ensure no vacuum or MAF sensors are left disconnected; replace any brittle vacuum lines.
- Pressure-test the system for leaks
- Use a boost leak tester or a low-pressure air supply with soapy water over joints. Pressurize gently and watch for bubbles/leaks. Fix leaks by repositioning clamps or replacing couplers.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, start engine, and check
- With the engine running, visually inspect for unusual vibrations, rubbing, or leaks. If safe, do a gentle test drive and recheck clamps and mounts after initial run.
- Final sealing and airflow management
- Add foam or air-dam panels to direct air through the intercooler core rather than around it. Secure all undertray and bumper pieces.

- How to use clamps and couplers correctly (common failure point)
- Slide coupler onto pipe fully; position T-bolt clamp over the coupling bead or middle of coupler; tighten gradually and evenly until snug—do not over-tighten to crush silicone. Recheck after heat cycles.

- Testing and verification
- Perform a road test under light-to-moderate boost; listen for hissing (boost leaks). Recheck torque on pipe clamps and intercooler mounts after the first drive.
- If you have a boost gauge, monitor boost stability; sudden drop or slow build often indicates a leak.

- Common pitfalls and fixes
- Intercooler rubbing radiator or condenser: shim brackets or re-route piping to provide clearance.
- Blow-off at couplers on boost: use larger couplers, T-bolt clamps, and ensure pipes are supported to prevent torqueing the joints.
- Bumper won’t close: trim inner tabs or reposition bracket; keep structural parts intact.

- When to seek professional help
- If welding or major fabrication is required and you don’t have experience.
- If radiator/A‑C condenser must be relocated or removed for fitment.
- If boost leak testing indicates an inseparable leak under the core or in a hard-to-reach area.

- Final notes (short)
- Get or reference a factory service manual for your Delica L300 for bolt torque specs and jack points.
- Carry spare clamps and a small coupler kit in case of failures later.
- If unsure, a local performance shop can do a fitment and final leak check quickly and safely.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting (so you don’t stop mid-job)
- Intercooler core (appropriate size for Delica L300)
- Intercooler piping kit (or raw mandrel-bent pipes)
- Silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps (several sizes)
- Mounting brackets or metal to fabricate them
- New fasteners, washers, and lock nuts
- Replacement vacuum and intake hoses (if old)
- Zip-ties, foam stripping, and basic trim fasteners

No further questions.
rteeqp73

Mitsubishi Delica L300 #shorts Mitsubishi Delica L300 Starwagon review New to the channel? Consider subscribing! Social Media Links: ...

1991 Mitsubishi Delica L300 - 2" Lift Kit I installed a 2" Lift Kit! Part Numbers: Front shocks: Procomp 915510 Rear shocks: Procomp 921520 Lower Leaf Spring Bushings: ...

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