- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves and sturdy footwear; work on a flat surface with the tractor secured (handbrake on, wheels chocked).
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal before beginning.
- Let the engine cool fully and drain only if you must remove coolant-affected parts; work with rags handy to catch oil/coolant.
- If you feel unsure at any point, stop and consult a qualified mechanic or the factory workshop manual — incorrect timing can cause major engine damage.

- Important model note
- Fiat 55-60 / 60-90 / 79-90 / 80-90 / 90-90 / 100-90 tractors use belt-driven timing on some engine variants and gear/chain on others depending on year and engine code. Confirm you actually have a belt-driven timing case before proceeding (check the top/front of the engine for a timing belt cover). If the tractor has timing gears or chains, do not follow belt steps — get the correct procedure for that engine.

- Tools required (every tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set (metric sockets 8–32 mm, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives)
- Use to remove nuts/bolts. Match socket size to fastener, pull straight to avoid rounding. Work breaker-bar for stuck bolts, ratchet for normal removal.
- Ratchet handles (3/8" and 1/2")
- Use for speed; always hold the ratchet square to the socket and apply steady force.
- Breaker bar (long-handled)
- Use to loosen tight crank pulley/central bolts. Apply firm, controlled force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (range covering required torques, e.g., 10–200 Nm)
- Use to tighten critical bolts to factory spec (cam sprockets, crank bolt, tensioner). Set required Nm, tighten slowly until clicks. Do not guess torque.
- Combination wrenches (open-end/box-end set)
- Use where sockets can't reach. Use box-end to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Use to remove small screws and pry gently on clips. Avoid using as chisels.
- Pliers (needle-nose, locking/Vice-Grips)
- Use for clips, hose clamps and to hold small parts. Locking pliers can hold items but avoid damaging surfaces.
- Pulley holding tool / crank pulley holder or heavy pry-bar
- Use to prevent crankshaft turning when loosening/tightening crank bolt. Hook or hold the flywheel/fan/back of pulley as appropriate.
- Camshaft/crankshaft locking tool(s) or improvised locking pins (specific to engine)
- Use to lock cam(s) and crank at timing marks so timing does not shift while the belt is removed. Strongly recommended — if you lack OEM locking tools, use the workshop manual approved method (special pin positions). Do not rely solely on a jammed belt.
- Belt tension gauge or long-rule & specified deflection method
- Use to measure or set the new belt’s tension. Many manuals give a deflection amount at mid-span under a specific force — a gauge makes this accurate.
- Torque angle gauge (if required for crank bolt)
- Use when the crank bolt requires angle tightening after a torque value.
- Pry bar / large flat screwdriver
- Use carefully to remove covers and to move pulleys to relieve tension, but avoid prying on bearings.
- Harmonic balancer/pulley puller (if crank pulley is pressed on)
- Use if the crank pulley or harmonic balancer must be removed and is tight/pressed on. Thread the puller into the center hole and draw the pulley off evenly.
- Allen/hex key set / Torx set (if used on covers)
- Use for specialty fasteners on covers.
- Container & rags; drip tray
- Catch fluids and keep workspace clean.
- Replacement parts (described below) and gasket sealant if needed
- Have them on hand before starting.

- Extra/special tools and why they are required
- Cam/crank locking tools: prevent cam/crank from moving and losing timing alignment — critical to avoid valve/piston collision.
- Torque wrench: ensures bolts are tightened to spec; over/under-torque can cause failures.
- Belt tension gauge or specified deflection method: incorrect tension causes premature belt failure or skipped teeth.
- Pulley/harmonic balancer puller: some crank pulleys are interference fit and will damage if pried off.
- If you don’t have these, a professional shop or an aftermarket timing tool kit for Fiat engines is strongly recommended.

- Preparation steps before working
- Obtain the correct workshop/service manual or official timing diagram for your exact engine serial/model — you need the correct timing marks and torque specs.
- Gather replacement parts and tools; having everything ready avoids midway stops.
- Clean area around timing cover so dirt doesn’t fall into the engine.
- Note routing of accessory belts (take photos) and the position of pulleys before removal.

- Common replacement parts to do while belt is off (why and what)
- Timing belt (always replace)
- Belts age and weaken; replacement is the purpose of this job.
- Tensioner assembly (hydraulic or mechanical)
- Tensioners wear and springs weaken; replacing prevents loss of tension and belt failure.
- Idler/guide pulleys
- Bearings wear; a seized idler will destroy a new belt rapidly.
- Water pump (if driven by timing belt on your engine)
- Usually replaced because it's accessible with the belt off; pump failure after belt replacement means repeating the job.
- Crankshaft seal and camshaft seals (optional but recommended)
- If seals are leaking, replace now to avoid oil on a new belt.
- Bolts rated as one-time-use (ex: certain crank/cam bolts)
- Some manufacturers specify replacing certain stretched bolts — follow manual.
- Gaskets and O-rings for covers
- Remove old seals to prevent oil/coolant leaks.

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted, concise actions)
- Remove battery negative terminal and secure battery away from the work area.
- Drain coolant and/or remove components blocking access to the timing cover (fan, fan shroud, accessory belts, alternator, air filter housing) as needed — keep bolts organized.
- Remove timing belt cover(s) to expose belt, pulleys and timing marks.
- Rotate engine by hand (use breaker bar on crank bolt, clockwise) to align timing marks to Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder #1 per manual — find and align crankshaft and camshaft marks exactly.
- Fit cam and crank locking tools or secure cams/crank per manual procedure; double-check marks cannot move.
- Loosen the tensioner to relieve belt tension and slide the old belt off the sprockets; note exact routing and orientation of old belt teeth.
- Inspect sprockets, pulleys and bearings by spinning idlers and feeling for roughness; replace any with play or rough bearing feel.
- Remove and replace/water pump/seals as required; clean mounting surfaces and use new gaskets.
- Fit new timing belt according to the manual routing: first around crank sprocket, then cam sprocket(s) and idlers, leaving the tensioner loose until seated. Ensure the belt teeth fully engage and there is no slack on the timing side.
- Apply initial tension per manual: either set the tensioner to a pre-load or tighten and then use the tension gauge or deflection method to achieve correct tension.
- Remove cam/crank locking tools (if manual requires) and slowly rotate the engine by hand (clockwise) at least two full revolutions of the crankshaft to settle the belt and verify there is no interference and that marks return to exact alignment.
- Re-check belt tension after rotation and re-tension if necessary to spec.
- Refit timing cover(s), accessory belts, fan, and other removed components. Torque all bolts to specified values.
- Reconnect battery, refill coolant if drained, start engine and listen for abnormal noises; let run briefly and re-check for leaks and belt tension (and re-torque if manual requires re-check after warm-up).

- How to set/check TDC and timing marks (practical tips)
- Find the crankshaft mark (on pulley or flywheel) and the camshaft mark (on cam sprocket or housing). Clean them for visibility.
- Turn crank clockwise only (most engines are designed to rotate clockwise); turning counter-clockwise can unset valves and break the belt.
- Verify TDC on compression stroke by removing the #1 injector or glow plug and feeling for a strong compression pulse or watching the valve movement if visible; the piston will be at its highest point when valves are closed.

- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Don’t reuse old tensioner/idler bearings if there is any roughness — they typically fail soon.
- Never rotate the engine by forcing the cam or crank when the belt is removed without proper locking tools.
- Don’t skip the double-rotation verification; it catches misalignment before damage.
- Avoid using a worn or incorrect belt — use OEM or high-quality aftermarket belts sized for your engine.

- Final checks after assembly
- Confirm all timing marks line up after two full rotations.
- Check for oil or coolant leaks at seals and pump.
- Check accessory belt tensions and engine idle — abnormal vibrations/noises require immediate stop and inspection.

- When to consult a pro
- You don’t have the specific timing marks/torque specs for your engine.
- You lack locking tools or a torque wrench.
- The engine is an interference design and you can’t tolerate risk of valve damage.
- If you detect excessive wear on sprockets, bearings, or engine damage.

- Summary of what to replace (short)
- Mandatory: timing belt.
- Highly recommended: tensioner, idler pulleys, water pump (if driven by belt), crank/cam seals, and any one-time torque/fastener specified in manual.

- Final practical note
- Obtain the exact workshop manual for your tractor engine: it gives the precise timing marks, locking tool positions, torque values and belt tension specs needed to do this job safely and correctly.

- Safety reminder
- Incorrect timing or improper torque can cause catastrophic engine damage. If you are not fully confident or lack the special tools, have a competent tractor mechanic perform the job.
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