Short, clear workshop guide for the alternator on Fiat tractors (55‑60, 60‑90, 79‑90, 80‑90, 90‑90, 100‑90). Written for a beginner mechanic. Read safety first and follow your tractor’s shop manual for torque values and part numbers.

Safety first
- Disconnect negative battery cable before doing anything electrical.
- Work with engine off, key out.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Support heavy components; don’t let alternator fall.
- Keep metal tools away from battery terminals to avoid shorts.
- When bench‑testing spinning parts, keep fingers clear.

What an alternator does (analogy)
- The alternator is the tractor’s electricity factory. The rotor is a rotating magnet, the stator is the fixed coil that electricity flows out of, the rectifier converts the alternating output to DC, and the regulator controls output voltage — like a governor on an engine. If any part fails, the battery won’t stay charged and electrical devices don’t work.

Main components — what they are and why they matter
- Housing/case: protects parts and mounts alternator to engine.
- Pulley & fan: pulley transfers crank power via belt; fan cools internals.
- Bearings (front and rear): let rotor turn freely. Worn bearings cause noise and eventual seizure.
- Rotor (field coil): spinning electromagnet. It creates a rotating magnetic field.
- Slip rings: copper rings on the rotor that deliver current to the rotor via brushes.
- Brushes & brush holder: carbon blocks that press onto the slip rings to feed current to the rotor field coil. Worn brushes = loss of field = no charging.
- Stator: fixed set of windings around the rotor; rotor’s changing magnetic field induces AC voltage in these windings.
- Rectifier/diode pack: converts the AC output of the stator into DC for the battery. Diodes act like one‑way valves for current.
- Voltage regulator (internal or external): monitors battery/charging voltage and adjusts rotor current to keep voltage correct (typically ~13.8–14.6 V).
- B+ terminal (battery stud) and D+/indicator terminal: electrical connections to the battery and dash lamp/ignition circuit.
- Mounting brackets/pivots and tensioner: mechanical attachment and belt tensioning.

Why a repair is needed — symptoms
- Battery not charging (battery voltage low with engine running).
- Battery warning lamp on the dash.
- Dim or flickering lights at certain engine speeds.
- Strange noises from alternator (growl, rumble, squeal).
- Intermittent charging (works at some RPMs, not others).
- Burning smell or smoke (rectifier overheating).

How the charging system works (simple)
1. Key to ON sends battery voltage through the warning lamp circuit to the rotor via brushes — energizes the rotor.
2. Engine belt spins rotor. A spinning magnetic field cuts the stator windings and induces 3‑phase AC.
3. Rectifier diodes convert AC to DC and feed it to the battery via the B+ terminal.
4. Regulator senses battery voltage and increases or decreases rotor current (via brushes) to hold charge in the proper voltage window.
Analogy: rotor = bicycle dynamo rotor, stator = stationary coil, rectifier = set of one‑way valves, regulator = thermostat that keeps voltage steady.

Tools and supplies
- Multimeter (DC volts, AC volts, diode test).
- Socket set, open/box wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Belt tension gauge or a straightedge / ruler for deflection check.
- Pulley puller (M8/M10 style) or appropriate puller.
- Small hammer and punch (careful), snap ring pliers if needed.
- Bearing puller or press (or alternator service kit replacement).
- Wire brushes, emery cloth or very fine sandpaper (for slip rings).
- Replacement brushes, rectifier/diode pack, regulator, bearings as needed.
- Service manual for torque values and wiring diagrams.

Preliminary electrical checks (before removing alternator)
1. Battery state: engine stopped, fully charged battery should read ≈12.6 V. If much lower, charge/replace battery first.
2. Engine running: measure across battery. Good alternator: about 13.8–14.6 V. If <13.5 V or >15 V, there’s a problem.
3. With engine running, measure AC voltage across battery terminals (set meter to AC). Should be very low (≤0.5 VAC). Higher AC (1 V+) indicates diode/rectifier failure.
4. Turn off engine and check for continuity/ resistance:
- Between alternator B+ and battery: should be near 0Ω when connected.
- Between D+ terminal and battery (through lamp circuit): varies, consult wiring.
5. If charging is intermittent, check belt condition and tension first (a slipping belt can mimic alternator failure).

Removal — step‑by‑step
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Note belt routing and marker positions (photo with phone helps).
3. Loosen belt tensioner and remove belt from alternator pulley.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors: main battery cable (B+), small plug for regulator/D+ (mark wires if needed), and ground if separate. Keep nuts/bolts safe.
5. Support alternator. Remove pivot bolt(s) — usually a lower pivot and an upper adjustment bolt. Keep spacers/shims in order.
6. Remove alternator from bracket. Clean dirt off mounting area.
7. Remove alternator to workbench.

Disassembly for inspection/repair (bench)
1. Remove pulley: usually a nut on the front. Use proper puller; do not hammer the shaft. Remove any fan/washer.
2. Remove the rear cover/end plate screws (careful — keep track of screws). Brake the case halves apart gently.
3. Inspect internal components:
- Bearings: spin by hand; should be smooth, no play. Replace if gritty/noisy.
- Brushes: measure length; if worn close to holder or springs weak, replace. Brush springs should push brushes firmly onto slip rings.
- Slip rings: should be smooth and shiny. Small grooves ok, heavy pitting requires machining or rotor replacement. Clean with fine emery cloth; do not remove too much metal.
- Rotor windings: check resistance between slip rings (ohmmeter). A low ohm reading (couple ohms typical) indicates continuity; infinite indicates open field. Short to ground is failure. Exact ohms vary by model — note relative.
- Stator windings: check resistance between the three stator leads (for 3‑phase). Should be similar on all three. Open or grounded winding = replace stator.
- Diode pack: inspect for heat damage. Diode test with multimeter diode mode: each diode should conduct one way only.
- Regulator: if external, inspect wiring and connectors; if internal, check brushes/regulator board for damage.
- Housing: check for oil ingress or contamination.
4. Replace what’s bad: brushes and rectifier/regulator and bearings are the most commonly replaced parts. Many alternators are repaired with a rebuilt kit.

Testing components
- Brushes: measure length; if under the minimum, replace. Spring tension should be firm.
- Rotor: measure resistance between slip rings (specs in manual). Check insulation to ground (should be open).
- Stator: measure resistance between the 3 phases; all similar. Test for short to ground.
- Diodes: diode test mode: each diode should show forward drop (0.4–0.8 V) in one direction and open (OL) in reverse. If any diode fails, replace the diode pack.
- Full bench test: apply 12 V to rotor through resistor and spin rotor to see if stator produces DC after rectifier — this requires a proper test rig; many shops use a powered load tester.

Reassembly
1. Fit new bearings (press in correctly) — do not hammer on the bearing race; use a press or proper driver. Replace seals if used.
2. Reassemble stator and rotor carefully, ensuring no wire pinching. Ensure brush holder orientation and spring tension are correct.
3. Reinstall rectifier and regulator, torquing screws snugly and insulating where required. Use new gaskets or shims if supplied.
4. Refit pulley and fan, tighten nut to manufacturer torque if known; otherwise snug and mark for service manual torque later.
5. Spin rotor by hand — it should rotate smoothly with no rubbing or electrical drag.

Reinstall alternator on tractor
1. Fit alternator into bracket, insert pivot bolt(s) loosely so you can adjust alignment.
2. Reconnect electrical wiring: B+ cable (clean and tighten), D+/regulator plug. Ensure good connections and no paint or corrosion on terminals.
3. Refit belt and set initial tension: general rule — a properly tightened V‑belt will deflect about 10–15 mm (3/8–5/8") under moderate thumb pressure at midpoint for most small spans; check manual for spec. Check alignment of pulley with other pulleys.
4. Tighten pivot and adjustment bolts to secure alternator. Set final belt tension. Reconnect battery negative.
5. Start engine and measure battery voltage (should be ~13.8–14.6 V). Check for warning lamp off, no unusual noise. Check for charging current with clamp meter if available.

Troubleshooting quick guide
- No charge, battery light on:
- Check belt, battery condition, fuses.
- Check B+ connection for tightness and corrosion.
- If voltage at alternator B+ equals battery but alternator not producing, suspect brushes/regulator/diodes/rotor open.
- Charge at high RPMs but not idle:
- Possibly worn brushes, weak field, poor connections, or internal regulator calibrated wrong.
- High voltage (>15 V):
- Faulty regulator or wiring to regulator; replace regulator.
- AC on DC output:
- Bad diode pack.
- Squeal or growl:
- Belt slip (loose or glazed), misaligned pulley, or bad bearings.

Common failure modes and causes
- Worn brushes/springs: natural wear — brush replacement is common.
- Failed diodes/rectifier: heat/cycling causes failure. Produces AC ripple or no DC output.
- Bad voltage regulator: causes over/under charging.
- Open rotor or stator windings: due to heat or vibration — usually requires replacement of rotor/stator or complete alternator.
- Seized/worn bearings: oil contamination or age; causes noise and eventual shaft seizure.
- Loose/corroded wiring or poor ground: intermittent or reduced charging.
- Belt slip or wrong belt size: undercharging or noise.

When to replace vs repair
- Replace brushes/rectifier/regulator and bearings if available as service parts and cost effective.
- Replace entire alternator if stator or rotor is open/shorted, or the housing is damaged, or if repair parts are not available. For older tractors often a rebuilt unit is easiest.

Final checks and preventive maintenance
- Clean terminals and connectors, apply dielectric grease lightly.
- Check belt condition and tension periodically.
- Keep alternator area free of oil and heavy dirt.
- Replace brushes and bearings at first sign of failure to avoid collateral damage.
- After repair, run the tractor under load (headlights, PTO electrics) to confirm stable charging under working conditions.

Useful expected values (typical, not a substitute for your manual)
- Battery resting voltage: ≈12.6 V.
- Charging voltage (engine running): ≈13.8–14.6 V.
- AC ripple: ≤0.5 VAC at idle.
- Rotor DC resistance: low ohms (model dependent). Use service manual for exact.

Concise checklist before leaving the job
- Battery negative reconnected and tight.
- Belt routed correctly and tension set.
- All electrical terminals tight and insulated.
- Charging voltage correct at battery with engine running.
- No abnormal noises or heat from alternator.
- Clean work area and used parts organized for warranty or records.

You can do most alternator repairs with basic hand tools and a multimeter. Replace worn brushes/diodes/regulator first — they fix most charging problems. For anything involving pressed bearings or complex winding replacement, consider sending the alternator to a bench rebuilder if you lack a press.

No further questions asked.
rteeqp73

Farmtrac 6055 Powermaxx T-20 EPI | Price, features, specifications and review | 60 HP t20 tractor new 2021 model.

Landini 8880 Tractor Field Maintenance Part 1 Landini 8880 Tractor Field Maintenance Part 1 We had a lots of fun doing part 1 on that tractor New Update : If you like ...

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- Safety first: wear eye protection, nitrile or mechanic gloves, and a long-sleeve shirt; work with the engine cold; disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning; have a fire extinguisher nearby.

- Purpose and symptoms of EGR problems: the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve routes exhaust back into the intake to lower combustion temperature. Replace or repair when valve is stuck open/closed, diaphragm is torn, electrical actuator fails, or the cooler/circuit is clogged — symptoms include rough idle, black smoke, reduced power, increased fuel use, or fault codes.

- Parts you may need and why:
- Replacement EGR valve assembly (OEM or aftermarket specific to Fiat 55–100 series) — required if valve is mechanically stuck, electrically dead, or diaphragm/actuator is damaged.
- EGR valve gasket(s) — always replace when removing the valve to ensure a proper seal.
- EGR cooler (if fitted) or cooler gaskets — replace if there is internal soot blockage, coolant leakage, or corrosion.
- Mounting bolts/studs and washers — replace if corroded or rounded; prevents future failures.
- Vacuum diaphragm (for vacuum-operated EGR) or actuator (for electronic EGR) — replace if failed; sometimes sold separately.
- EGR temperature sensor or related sensors/connectors — replace if faulty or corroded.
- Cleaning supplies (solvent, brushes) — to clear soot from passages; replace parts if cleaning cannot restore function.

- Basic tools you will need (and how to use each):
- Socket set (metric, 8–19 mm common) with ratchet:
- Use the correct socket size; pull the handle toward you to turn fastenings, push to loosen; keep sockets fully seated on bolts to avoid rounding heads.
- Combination wrenches (metric set):
- Use in tight spaces where a socket won’t fit; pull on the wrench, not push, to reduce slip risk.
- Torque wrench (click-type, suitable for the torque range):
- Set to the manufacturer’s torque spec (consult a workshop manual). Tighten bolts in stages to the specified torque to avoid warping or leaks.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist penetrating):
- Spray onto rusty or seized bolts and let soak 10–20 minutes; repeat as needed before attempting removal.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips):
- For hose clamps, electrical connectors and small fasteners; use appropriately sized tip to avoid cam-out.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose, hose clamp pliers):
- Use to remove clamps, grip small parts, and hold components; hose pliers help remove spring clamps safely.
- Breaker bar or long-handled ratchet:
- Provides extra leverage for stubborn bolts; pull steadily—don’t jerk—to avoid stripping bolts.
- Wire brush and brass/nylon brushes:
- Clean carbon deposits and mating surfaces; brass/nylon reduce risk of damaging metal surfaces.
- Gasket scraper or plastic scraper:
- Remove old gasket material without gouging the flange; use plastic where possible to protect surfaces.
- Hand-held vacuum pump (for vacuum EGR diagnosis) or a suitable pressure/vacuum tester:
- Apply vacuum to the EGR diaphragm to see if it moves (vacuum-operated valves); used before removal to confirm failure.
- Multimeter:
- Check electrical continuity and voltage on electronic actuators and sensors.
- Flashlight or work light:
- Illuminate engine bay for safe, accurate work.
- Rags and brake cleaner or intake-safe solvent:
- Clean oil, grease, and carbon; brake cleaner evaporates quickly—avoid spraying into sensors.
- Replacement gaskets and anti-seize compound:
- Anti-seize on bolt threads prevents future seizure; apply sparingly per product instructions.
- Optional but often required: impact wrench (air or electric) and appropriate sockets:
- Useful if bolts are heavily corroded; use with care to avoid breaking studs.

- Extra tools you might need and why:
- Impact wrench: speeds removal of seized bolts; reduces time but increases risk of rounding heads—use quality sockets and steady support.
- Heat source (oxy/propane or heat gun): only for extreme seizure where penetrating oil fails; heats metal to break corrosion bond. Use extreme caution and have fire safety gear—avoid around fuel/coolant lines.
- Engine service manual or OEM parts diagram: provides correct part numbers and torque specs; essential for model-specific steps.
- Small mirror and magnetic pickup tool: retrieve fallen bolts/nuts in tight spaces.
- Exhaust gasket kit and replacement studs: if studs are corroded, they must be replaced to secure EGR/exhaust parts.

- Preparation steps:
- Park tractor on level ground, engage parking brake, set wheel chocks.
- Let engine cool completely; drain coolant only if you must remove a coolant-carrying EGR cooler.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid electrical shorts.
- Identify EGR valve location: typically between exhaust manifold/turbo outlet and intake manifold or near the intake port on these Fiat tractor engines; reference the service manual or parts diagram for the exact location.

- Diagnostic quick tests before replacing:
- Visual: inspect EGR and hoses for cracks, heavy soot, or coolant leaks.
- Vacuum-operated valve test: attach hand vacuum pump to control port; if valve diaphragm moves and holds vacuum, diaphragm is likely OK; if unstable or won’t hold vacuum, replace.
- Electronic actuator test: use a multimeter to check for correct supply voltage and continuity on connector pins; compare values to manual specs.
- Mechanical check: try to move the valve pintle/manifold plunger (with engine off and after removing intake linkage) — heavy seizure or no movement indicates replacement.

- Removal steps (general, keep each step careful and methodical):
- Label and photograph connections (vacuum hoses, coolant lines, electrical connectors) so you can reconnect correctly.
- Spray penetrating oil on all EGR mounting bolts and studs; allow to soak.
- Disconnect vacuum hoses/electrical connectors from the EGR actuator; use screwdriver or pliers as needed—avoid pulling on wires.
- If the EGR has coolant lines (EGR cooler), clamp hoses and drain small amount of coolant into a catch pan before disconnecting; be prepared to top-up/bleed cooling system later.
- Remove any obstructing components (air intake hoses, brackets) to gain clear access—keep removed parts organized.
- Loosen and remove mounting bolts/studs using appropriate sockets/wrenches; use breaker bar if needed. If a bolt is seized, use penetrating oil, then try again; use impact wrench as last resort.
- Carefully separate the EGR valve from the intake/exhaust mating surfaces; gently pry only at designated points—do not force are risk of damage.
- Remove old gasket(s) and clean mating surfaces with scraper and wire brush; ensure no debris falls into intake/exhaust ports—cover openings with a clean rag if needed.

- Inspection and cleaning:
- Inspect the EGR valve internals: if carbon is the only issue and the valve mechanism moves freely, you may clean with intake-safe solvent and brushes.
- Inspect mating surfaces for warping or corrosion; replace the valve if surfaces are damaged or if valve still sticks after cleaning.
- Inspect EGR cooler for soot buildup, coolant leakage, or cracks; replace cooler if plugged or leaking.
- Inspect and clean intake manifold EGR passages with brushes—if passages are heavily blocked, you may need professional cleaning or part replacement.

- Installation steps:
- Place new gasket(s) on clean mating surface; do not re-use old gaskets.
- If replacing the EGR valve, fit new valve to manifold. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to bolt threads if recommended; do not contaminate gasket surfaces.
- Tighten mounting bolts hand-tight first, then use a torque wrench to the torque specified in the workshop manual. If you do not have the exact torque spec, tighten evenly in an X-pattern until snug and test for leaks, then obtain the spec and re-torque properly as soon as possible.
- Reconnect vacuum hoses, electrical connectors, coolant lines (if present) and any removed components in the reverse order of removal.
- Refill and bleed cooling system if coolant was drained; ensure no air locks.
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal.

- Post-installation checks:
- Start engine and let idle while observing for leaks (coolant, exhaust, vacuum) and listening for abnormal noises.
- Check for smoke and monitor idle quality and throttle response.
- Use a diagnostic reader if available to clear and read any fault codes; confirm there are no persistent EGR-related codes.
- Road test or operate under load to ensure normal performance; re-check fasteners and hoses for tightness after the first short run.

- Troubleshooting common issues after replacement:
- Persistent code or rough running: verify electrical connections and grounds, check vacuum supply, and reconfirm mating surfaces are sealed.
- Coolant leak: tighten cooler hose clamps, check gaskets, or replace faulty cooler.
- Repeated clogging: check for upstream oil consumption, poor combustion, or turbo issues causing excess soot — EGR replacement alone may not fix root cause.

- Notes about model specifics and parts:
- Fiat 55-60 / 60-90 / 79-90 / 80-90 / 90-90 / 100-90 tractors use diesel engines where EGR design can vary by serial/year (vacuum vs electronic, with or without cooler). Always match the replacement EGR valve part number to your tractor’s engine serial number.
- If unsure of the correct EGR assembly part number, use the tractor’s VIN/engine serial when ordering from Fiat/Case IH dealer or reputable parts supplier.

- Final tips:
- Keep work area clean and organized; label removed parts and hang small components on a magnetic tray.
- If bolts/studs are heavily corroded or threads are damaged, replace them—reusing damaged fasteners risks leaks and breakdowns.
- If you encounter stuck studs inside the block or manifold, consider professional help to avoid damaging the engine flange.

- Summary checklist to take to the shop/store:
- Replacement EGR valve (model/serial-specific), gaskets, possible EGR cooler, new bolts/studs, anti-seize, and cooling system sealant if needed; plus the tool list above and the tractor’s service manual for torque specs and diagrams.
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