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Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 repair manual download

Theory (short)
- The throttle cable mechanically links the accelerator pedal to the throttle plate on the throttle body. Pedal travel pulls the cable, rotating the throttle lever to open the throttle plate and admit more air. A return spring closes the plate when the pedal is released.
- Proper cable tension = small free play at the pedal so the throttle fully closes at idle and fully opens at full pedal without binding. Too much slack → delayed/throttle not reaching full open. Too little slack → high idle or inability of throttle to return (safety hazard). Friction, corrosion, or stretched/ frayed cable cause sticking, sluggish response, or inconsistent idle.

Prep and tools (one-line)
- Safety: engine off, parking brake set, wheels chocked. Tools: basic hand tools (pliers, wrenches/sockets 8–14 mm), screwdriver, penetrating lube, replacement cable if needed, rag.

1) Inspect/diagnose (in order)
1.1 Visually inspect the cable along its run (pedal box → firewall → engine bay → throttle lever) for frays, kinks, corrosion, or binding points.
1.2 At the pedal: check the clevis/retaining clip and bushing for wear or play.
1.3 At the firewall grommet: ensure the cable sheathing moves smoothly; check for rubbing or sharp bends.
1.4 At the throttle lever: check the attachment, spring return, and for free play at the pedal. Note symptom: delayed response, sticking, or high idle.
1.5 Decide: if cable is frayed, heavily corroded, or binding, replace. If intact and just slack, adjust.

2) Adjustment procedure (ordered)
2.1 Move to engine bay. Locate the throttle cable adjuster — the threaded section or jam-nut near the throttle body bracket (TJ typically adjusts at the cable end at the throttle).
2.2 Loosen the jam nut(s) or retaining clip that locks the adjuster.
2.3 With someone gently holding the pedal at rest (or hold cable sheath so pedal sits naturally), turn the adjuster to remove most slack until a small amount of free play exists at the pedal.
2.4 Target free play: a small measurable amount so the throttle closes fully and returns under spring tension. (Typical small range ~ 1/8–1/4" pedal travel; consult factory manual for exact spec.)
2.5 Tighten the jam nut/lock the adjuster without changing the setting.
2.6 Verify throttle closes fully: with engine off, press and release pedal several times, observe throttle arm returns to closed and cable isn’t taut at rest. Confirm no binding through full pedal travel.
2.7 Start engine, check idle and smooth progression to wide-open throttle. Recheck adjuster if necessary.

3) Replacement procedure (ordered, if needed)
3.1 Note routing and retainers; take photo for reference.
3.2 Disconnect cable at pedal clevis: remove retaining clip/pin and unhook cable.
3.3 In engine bay, unhook cable from throttle lever and remove any retaining rivets/clips at firewall. Pull cable out through firewall.
3.4 Prepare new cable: route the new cable identical to the old, through firewall grommet, and into engine bay with same curvature and support points (avoid tight bends).
3.5 Connect cable to throttle lever and secure retaining clip; connect pedal end and secure clevis/clip.
3.6 Adjust per step 2 to set correct free play and lock adjuster.
3.7 Lubricate pivot points lightly and verify free movement and return spring action.
3.8 Test engine operation and road-test.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Adjustment removes excess slack so pedal input directly moves the throttle lever the correct amount; it restores predictable idle and throttle response and assures the return spring can fully close the throttle.
- Replacement removes the cause when the cable is stretched, frayed, corroded, or internal-friction-bound. A new cable eliminates internal binding and regained smooth, linear motion, preventing sticking and restoring full travel.

Final checks (ordered)
- Ensure throttle returns reliably with engine running and off, and there’s no hanging throttle.
- Confirm throttle opens fully at full pedal and returns to idle position at no pedal.
- Re-torque any jam nuts/clips, tidy routing so cable can’t contact hot/exhaust parts.

Done.
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