Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, breaker bar, extensions, impact if available
- Torque wrench (capable to at least the rod bolt torque; 0–200 ft·lb range)
- Angle gauge (if rod bolts are torque-to-yield)
- Engine hoist or crane (if removing head/engine)
- Engine stand (if engine is removed)
- Oil pan gasket set, head gasket set (if head removed), all O‑rings/seals replaced
- Feeler gauges
- Plastigage (various sizes) or micrometer & bore gauge for bearing clearance
- Micrometer (outside) to measure journal diameters
- Telescoping bore gauge / dial bore gauge to check cylinder bore and rod big-end
- Piston ring compressor
- Ring expander pliers
- Soft mallet / wooden drift
- Clean rags, lint-free shop towels, solvent/degreaser
- Assembly lube (engine-grade)
- New rod bearings (matched to journal size), new rod bolts/nuts (replace stretch bolts)
- New pistons or rings if damaged; replacement pistons/rods if scored or bent
- Torque sealing compound, thread locker as required by manual
- Drain pans, jack stands, wheel chocks, PPE (safety glasses, gloves)

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake. Disconnect battery negative.
- Support vehicle/engine properly with jack stands or hoist. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep the work area clean and well lit.
- Keep all small parts and fasteners in labeled containers to avoid mix-ups.
- Follow torque specs and tightening procedures from the factory service manual. Incorrect torque can cause catastrophic engine failure.

High-level steps (detailed procedure)
Note: exact disassembly steps depend on whether you remove the engine or work in-chassis; these steps assume cylinder head(s) removed or engine on stand so pistons can be removed safely. Always refer to the Ford Trader service manual for model-specific sequences and torque values.

1) Preparation
- Drain engine oil and coolant. Remove intake/exhaust manifolds, turbo/intercooler plumbing (if applicable), and ancillary components to gain access to cylinder head and oil pan.
- Remove cylinder head(s) following factory sequence. Label cylinder head and block orientation if returning head to same cylinder.
- Remove oil pan to expose crankshaft and lower rod bearings. Thoroughly clean surrounding area so no debris falls into oil galleries.

2) Marking & documentation
- Mark each connecting rod and cap with cylinder number and orientation (e.g., “1F” for rod 1 front). Rod caps must go back on the same rod and in same orientation.
- Photograph or note bearing shell positions, cap orientation, and any eccentricities.

3) Exposing pistons/rods
- Rotate crank to bring piston to bottom dead center for the cylinder to access rod cap bolts. Remove rod cap bolts/nuts. If bolts are torque-to-yield/stretch type, discard and replace with new. Loosen in stages if necessary.
- Remove cap and carefully push piston up out of bore from the bottom while supporting the piston crown from above if head still removed. If engine is on stand, support crank to prevent rotation and avoid dropping cap pieces.

4) Removing pistons from bores
- Use a wooden dowel or piston hanger to support the piston as you withdraw it upward. Compress piston rings using a ring compressor or carefully compress with fingers using ring expander — avoid scratching cylinder walls.
- Slide piston and rod assembly out through top of bore. Keep each piston/rod assembly paired and labeled.

5) Inspection (visual & dimensional)
- Inspect rod big-end and small-end for scoring, ovality, heat discoloration (sign of overheat), cracks.
- Inspect bearing shells for wear, embedded debris, or imprint patterns (scuffing, false brinelling).
- Measure crankshaft journal diameters with micrometer and compare to service manual to determine if undersize bearings are required.
- Use dial bore gauge to check cylinder bore for taper, out-of-round. Measure piston diameters to check clearance.
- If journals are damaged beyond spec, crankshaft machining or replacement will be required.

6) Bearing clearance measurement (Plastigage method)
- Clean journal and bearing surfaces thoroughly, no oily film.
- Cut a strip of Plastigage (per manufacturer length), place along centerline of journal on crank (not on bearing cap).
- Fit new bearing shells into rod big end and install rod cap snug but do not rotate cap. Torque cap bolts to specified final torque (or snug per manual) — often just to seating for Plastigage; follow Plastigage instructions.
- Remove cap and measure flattened Plastigage width against the scale to determine clearance. Clearance must match factory spec; if clearance is too small/large, select different size bearings or machine crank.
- Clean all Plastigage residue thoroughly and use assembly lube when reassembling.

7) Replace rod bearings & bolts
- Always install new rod bearings sized to match crank journals (standard or undersize as measured).
- Replace rod bolts/nuts if manufacturer dictates (most modern rods use torque-to-yield bolts that must be replaced).
- Lightly coat bearing surfaces with assembly lube before reassembly.

8) Reassembly of piston/rod into cylinder
- Install piston rings on piston in correct order and orientation as per service manual. Use ring gap spacing procedure to prevent overlapping gaps.
- Install piston ring compressor and compress rings. Coat piston skirt and rings lightly with oil or assembly lube.
- Align rod to crank journal and push piston carefully into bore using a wooden handle on the wrist pin boss; avoid contact with wrist pin/rod tips.
- Refit rod cap, ensure correct orientation and that oil hole alignment matches. Hand-thread bolts then torque to specified sequence and torque (or torque + angle if required).

9) Final checks on rotating assembly
- Rotate crank by hand two full revolutions to ensure smooth movement, no tight spots or interference.
- Re-measure rod bolt torque after a prescribed number of heat cycles if manual requires re-torque. If torque-to-yield bolts used, they were replaced and torqued once per manual.

10) Reassembly of engine external systems
- Replace oil pump screen/gasket if removed. Replace oil pan gasket and reinstall oil pan.
- Reinstall cylinder head(s) with new head gasket(s) and torque in factory sequence/spec. Reconnect manifolds, sensors, turbo plumbing, etc.
- Refill oil (new filter) and coolant. Prime oiling system — crank engine without fuel or ignition to build oil pressure (follow manual prime procedure, typically use starter with fuel disabled or use oil pump priming tool).

11) Initial start & break-in
- Start engine and monitor oil pressure and abnormal noises. Idle for several minutes while watching for leaks.
- Follow break-in procedure for new bearings/pistons (gentle warm-up, avoiding high load for first few hundred km/miles).
- Re-check for leaks and re-torque any specified fasteners as required by manual after initial run.

How specific tools are used (short)
- Torque wrench: calibrate before use. Tighten bolts in specified sequence to the specified torque. If angle torque is required, set torque to snug, then use angle gauge to rotate nuts the additional degrees.
- Plastigage: place a single strip along journal, assemble cap, torque per Plastigage instructions, remove cap and compare flattened width to chart for clearance.
- Piston ring compressor: compress rings evenly and square on piston; tap piston into bore until ring compressor releases.
- Dial bore gauge/micrometer: zero against master ring or standard, measure cylinder and journal diameters at several depths/positions to determine taper and out-of-round.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Rod bearings (set matched to journal size), rod bolts/nuts (if torque-to-yield)
- Piston rings (if pistons are reused)
- Pistons or rods if bent, cracked, or severely scored
- Gaskets & seals: oil pan gasket, crankshaft seals, head gasket if head removed
- Oil filter and fresh engine oil, possibly new oil pump if contaminated or worn
- Fasteners per manual (commonly replace head bolts and rod bolts if specified)

Common pitfalls / mistakes to avoid
- Reinstalling rod caps in wrong orientation or on wrong rod — always mark and keep matched sets together.
- Reusing torque-to-yield/stretch bolts — replace them.
- Not cleaning oil passages/debris — foreign particles will ruin bearings.
- Failing to measure clearance — guessing bearing size leads to wrong clearances and early failure.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing rod bolts — causes bearing crush or bolt failure.
- Improper piston ring gap placement (gaps aligned) — aligns gaps correctly per manual.
- Forgetting to prime oil pump before first start — leads to dry-start bearing damage.
- Not checking crankshaft journals for micro-scoring or out-of-roundness — may require machining.
- Not replacing bearings with correct size (standard/undersize) matched to journal undersize.
- Not observing service manual torque sequence for head/rod fasteners.

Final notes (short)
- Exact torque values, bearing clearance specs, and bolt replacement rules are engine-specific. Use the Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000 factory service manual (or engine OEM manual) for the correct numeric values and sequences before starting work.
- If journals or rods are damaged beyond specification, professional machining or replacement is required.

If you want, I can compress this into a checklist format for shop use or list common part numbers typically needed for the Ford Trader series — but you said no questions, so I’ll stop here.
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