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Hino 500 Series Workshop Manual download

Short, practical guide to the blow-by tube on a Hino 500 series for a beginner mechanic. No questions.

What is the blow-by system and why repair it
- Theory in one line: the crankcase breathes out combustion gases (blow-by) and oil mist; the blow-by tube/PCV/oil-separator system collects and routes that gas back to the intake (or atmosphere) so the engine “breathes” properly and oil is kept inside.
- Why fix it: a blocked/cracked or leaking blow-by tube or a failed oil separator/PCV causes crankcase pressure, oil leaks past gaskets and seals, oil in the intake/intercooler or turbo, poor emissions, smoky exhaust and possible turbo damage. Fixing the tube/separator restores correct ventilation and stops secondary damage.

Analogy
- Think of the crankcase as lungs. The blow-by tube is the nostril, and the oil separator/PCV is a hair filter and mucus trap. If the nostril is blocked or torn, pressure builds and “air” (oil) leaks out where it shouldn’t.

Main components (detailed descriptions)
- Valve cover / crankcase cover breather port: the outlet on top of the engine where crankcase gas exits. Usually a hard boss or threaded port with a grommet.
- Grommet / breather fitting: rubber piece that seals the tube to the valve cover. It prevents leaks and isolates vibration.
- Oil separator (breather canister / baffle): a small metal or plastic can that separates oil droplets from the blow-by gas. Inside are baffles and/or filter material. It prevents oil from being sucked into the intake.
- PCV valve or check valve (if fitted): one-way valve that controls flow direction and prevents backflow (keeps boost from entering crankcase).
- Blow-by tube / hose: flexible rubber or heat-resistant hose that connects valve cover/oil separator to the intake/turbo inlet or to atmosphere. Must resist oil, heat and vacuum/pressure.
- Hose clamps (worm gear, spring or ear clamps): secure hose to fittings; some factory setups use crimp-style clamps or spring clamps.
- Elbows/adaptors: molded connectors used where tube changes direction or diameter.
- Intake/turbo inlet connection point: where the blow-by gas returns to the inlet tract (location varies by model/year; could be turbo inlet, air cleaner inlet, or intake manifold). On many Hino 500 diesels it routes near the turbo or air cleaner.
- Fasteners & mounting clips: brackets that keep the tube routed away from hot/exhaust parts.

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, sockets, open-end wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Hose clamp pliers or small adjustable pliers.
- Torque wrench (for related fasteners if required).
- Replacement blow-by hose (OEM spec or heat/oil-resistant silicone hose of correct ID/OD).
- Replacement grommet(s), clamps, and if necessary a new oil separator or PCV valve.
- Cleaner/degreaser, rags, small brush, compressed air (optional).
- Small inspection mirror, flashlight.
- Safety gloves and eye protection.

Safety first
- Work on a cool engine. Hot engine and turbo surfaces will burn you.
- Park on level ground, parking brake on, keys out.
- If you remove intake components, cover openings to prevent debris entry.
- Dispose of oily rags properly.

Diagnosis / what to look for before replacing
- Visual: cracked/soft hose, collapsed hose, oil soaked or brittle sections, torn grommet, missing clamps, oil pooled under valve cover area.
- Symptoms: oil leaks from valve cover, oil in intercooler/turbo inlet, excessive oil consumption, engine bay oil mist, hissing from breather port, smoke or poor idle.
- Quick functional test: with engine off remove hose from valve cover and check for heavy oil spray/pressure by cranking (use rag/cup) — heavy continuous pressure suggests a deeper engine blow-by problem (rings, cylinder wear).
- If you suspect internal engine wear, do compression/leakdown testing or measure crankcase pressure with a gauge. Replacing the tube only fixes ventilation faults, not worn rings.

Step-by-step: remove, inspect, replace blow-by tube (general Hino 500 approach)
1. Prepare
- Let engine cool. Gather tools/parts. Note routing of existing tube (take photos).
2. Access
- Remove any obstructing covers, air duct segments, or intercooler pipe sections to access tube and oil separator. Keep bolts/fasteners organized.
3. Depressurize/loosen
- Loosen clamps at both ends of the tube (valve cover/grommet and intake/turbo inlet). Use clamp pliers for spring clamps or screwdriver for worm clamps.
4. Remove tube
- Pull the tube off fittings. If stuck, twist gently; do not cut unless replacing. Inspect the inside of the tube for oil sludge, holes, or cracks.
- Remove and inspect grommet(s). Replace brittle/flattened grommets — they often leak.
5. Inspect oil separator & PCV
- Remove oil separator if accessible. Open or inspect per OEM method. Clean internal baffles with solvent and blow dry. Replace separator if clogged or damaged.
- Test PCV/check valve: blow through it; air should pass one way only. If sticky or flowing both ways, replace.
6. Clean mating surfaces
- Wipe valve cover port, intake mating point and grommet area clean of oil and old sealant. Check for metal shavings or sludge.
7. Select replacement parts
- Use correct ID hose to fit snugly on the fittings. Use heat/oil-resistant hose. Use new clamps (crimp or worm as factory uses) and new grommet if needed.
8. Install tube
- Slide hose onto valve cover port/grommet first; then onto oil separator/PCV and intake. Ensure elbows are oriented with gentle bends — avoid sharp kinks. Route away from exhaust, turbo hot pipes, and moving parts.
- Secure clamps: tighten worm clamps until snug; don’t over-torque as clamps can cut hose or deform fittings. Spring clamps should be fully seated. If using ear clamps/crimp clamps, crimp per spec.
- If there are brackets, snap/bolt the tube into the clips.
9. Reassemble removed parts
- Refit air ducts, intercooler pipes, covers. Remove any tools from engine bay.
10. Start engine and verify
- Start engine, let idle. Inspect for oil leaks, listen for hissing. Put rag around tube joints carefully to detect leaks (do not block air paths).
- Check intake and intercooler for oil after a short run.
11. Road/operational check
- Drive and recheck after engine has run up to operating temperatures. Confirm no oil leaks and no check engine lights.

Torque/fastening notes
- Hose clamps: snug, not crush. Use same type as original.
- Valve cover bolts, etc.: if you remove valve cover, torque per Hino spec (consult official manual). If you don’t have the manual, don’t overtighten — tighten evenly to avoid gasket crush.

What can go wrong (and how to recognize/avoid)
- Using wrong hose material: low-quality hose can soften and collapse under vacuum or melt if too close to hot parts. Use specified oil/heat-resistant hose.
- Poor routing: tube touching exhaust or turbo can melt hose. Keep routing clips, maintain clearance.
- Loose clamps or bad grommet: leads to vacuum/boost leaks and oil spray. Replace old grommets/clamps.
- Clogged oil separator: causes pressure build-up; cleaning sometimes helps, but replace if badly fouled.
- Reinstalling into intake without PCV check valve: allows boost into crankcase at boost, causing large volumes of oil to push out — ensure one-way valve presence as original.
- Replacing tube but ignoring heavy engine blow-by: if engine has worn rings or valves, the tube replacement will be only a temporary fix. Signs: constant heavy pressure/oil spray even after cleaning and new tube. Follow-up: compression/leakdown and engine overhaul.
- Allowing debris into intake: when tube is removed, dirt can enter intake. Block openings or work in a clean area.
- Overtightening clamps: cuts hose or damages fittings; leads to brittle failure later.

Maintenance tips
- Inspect blow-by tube and separator at routine oil changes.
- Replace rubber grommets every few years or when brittle.
- If you find oil in the turbo/intercooler regularly, trace source—PCV/separator or engine wear.
- If oil separator is serviceable, clean it periodically; replace PCV valves yearly or per service schedule.

Quick troubleshooting checklist
- Oil in intercooler/turbo: check tube, separator, PCV. If fixed but returns, perform engine blow-by test.
- Hissing/pressure from valve cover when running: possible blocked tube/separator.
- Oil leaks at valve cover gasket after tube replacement: could be overpressure (engine blow-by) or damaged gasket — check crankcase pressure.

Final note
- Replacing/repairing the blow-by tube and its fittings is a straightforward maintenance job if you follow safety and routing rules. However, persistent heavy blow-by after the ventilation system is restored indicates internal engine problems and needs deeper diagnostics.

That’s the procedure, parts and failure modes you need to repair the blow-by tube on a Hino 500 series as a beginner mechanic.
rteeqp73

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