Toyota 1FZ-FE 1FZ-F engine factory workshop and repair manual
Toyota 1FZ-FE and 1FZ-F engine factory workshop and repair manual download
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INTRODUCTION
PREPARATION
SERVICE SPECIFICATION
DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM
ENGINE MECHANICAL
INTAKE AIR/SHUTTER SYSTEM
TURBOCHARGING SYSTEM
EMISSION CONTROL
ELECTRONIC CONTROL DIESEL
FUEL & INTAKE TEMPERATURE
FUEL SYSTEM
INJECTION SYSTEM
COOLING SYSTEM
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
STARTING SYSTEM
ALTERNATOR SYSTEM
CHARGING SYSTEM
TORQUE SPECIFICATION
SST AND SSM SYSTEM
The engine displaced 4477 cc with a bore and stroke measuring 100 millimetres (3.9 in) x 95 millimetres (3.7 in), respectively and a 9.0:1 compression ratio; the head used Toyota's narrow-angle overhead camshafts for better fuel economy. The 1FZ had only two variants available: the 1FZ-F and the 1FZ-FE. The only significant difference between the two was the inclusion of electronic fuel injection on the 1FZ-FE, whereas the 1FZ-F used a carburetor.The 1FZ-F produced 190 horsepower (140 kW) at 4400 RPM and 268 pound-feet (363 N·m) at 2800 RPM; its fuel injected counterpart produced 212 horsepower (158 kW) at 4600 RPM and 275 pound-feet (373 N·m) at 3200 RPM. Starting in 1998, the fuel injected version of the 1FZ-FE was also manufactured with a direct ignition variation available in certain non-US markets (the engine pictured here is that variant discernible by the intake manifold and lack of distributor). This version of the engine received many updates over the previous version such as a redesigned head, more compact pistons, updated throttle body, an improved intake manifold with longer intake runners, 4 nozzle fuel injectors to improve fuel atomization and direct ignition. This version of the 1FZ-FE produced 240 horsepower (180 kW) at 4600 RPM and 300 pound-feet (410 N·m) at 3600 RPM on 91 Octane Fuel (RON) without a catalytic converter.
Toyota 1FZ-FE and 1FZ-F engine factory workshop and repair online download
Tools and supplies
- 3/8" drive ratchet, 3" and 6" extensions, universal joint
- Spark plug socket (14 mm / 5/8" with rubber insert or magnetic) — 6-point recommended
- Torque wrench (0–100 N·m range) set for spark plug spec
- Spark plug gap tool (feeler gauge or tapered gapping tool)
- Small metric socket set (8, 10, 12 mm) and screwdriver for removing coil bolts/cover
- Compressed air or small vacuum
- Dielectric grease, shop rags
- Anti-seize compound (optional — only if plugs are NOT factory plated; do NOT use on nickel-plated threads unless manufacturer allows)
- Pen/marker or masking tape to label leads/coil connectors
- Safety glasses and gloves
Replacement parts typically required
- 6 spark plugs (replace all at once). Use OEM-recommended type (iridium/platinum long‑life recommended). Confirm exact part number in the service manual or parts fiche for your 1FZ‑FE year/model.
- If applicable, 6 spark plug tube seals / O‑rings (valve cover tube seals) and any ignition coil boots if cracked or corroded.
- Consider replacing spark plug wires or coil packs if worn or causing misfires.
Safety precautions (no exceptions)
- Work only on a completely cool engine. Hot heads can seize plugs and cause burns.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be removing coil packs or electrical connectors for extended work.
- Keep debris out of the plug wells: blow out each well with compressed air or vacuum before removing a plug.
- Remove and install one plug at a time (do not remove all plugs at once) to avoid cylinder contamination and mix-ups.
- Use proper torque — under or over‑tightening causes leaks or damaged threads.
Quick specs (verify with your service manual for your year/model)
- Spark plug socket size: 14 mm (5/8")
- Typical gap: about 0.9 mm (0.035") — verify with manual or plug packaging
- Typical torque: ~25 N·m (18 ft‑lb) — check manual
Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation
a. Park on level ground, set parking brake, engine cold. Put on safety glasses and gloves.
b. Remove engine cover and air intake components blocking access to the valve cover/spark plug wells.
c. Label coil packs/wire connectors 1→6 (use masking tape/marker) so reassembly order is correct.
2. Clear the work area
a. Use compressed air or a vacuum to blow out any dirt/debris from each spark plug well. This prevents debris falling into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
3. Accessing plugs
a. If your 1FZ‑FE has individual ignition coils, remove the small bolt holding each coil (likely 10 mm) and carefully pull the coil straight up to expose the plug. If it has plug wires, grasp boot and twist/pull straight off.
b. Keep coil/boot assemblies with their labeled positions.
4. Remove old plug
a. Fit the 14 mm spark plug socket with a short extension and universal joint if needed. Insert through the well until the socket seats the plug.
b. Turn ratchet counterclockwise to break the plug loose. Use steady force; avoid jerky motions that can damage the hex.
c. Once loose, finish removal by hand using the socket’s rubber insert or magnet to pull the plug out.
5. Inspect old plug
a. Check for oil, fouling, or unusual deposits — these indicate other engine issues (oil seeping, rich mixture, coolant leak).
b. Note thread condition and electrode wear.
6. Prep new plug
a. Verify gap with a feeler or tapered tool, set to specified gap (typical ~0.9 mm / 0.035"). Modern iridium/platinum plugs often come pre-gapped; still check.
b. If manufacturer advises, apply a light film of anti‑seize to the threads only if the plugs are not plated. If you use anti‑seize, reduce final torque slightly or follow anti‑seize manufacturer guidance.
c. Do NOT apply dielectric grease to threads. Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the coil boot to aid re‑seating and prevent moisture entry.
7. Install new plug
a. Start the plug by hand using the socket on an extension. Ensure it threads freely — cross‑threading here will ruin the head.
b. Once hand‑tight, snug with ratchet (do not use full ratchet force).
c. Final torque: use torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (approx. 25 N·m / 18 ft‑lb). If using anti‑seize, reduce torque per anti‑seize instructions.
8. Reassemble coil/boot
a. Reinstall coil or boot onto the plug until you feel it snap/seal. Reinstall coil mounting bolt and tighten to spec (usually low torque — check manual).
b. Reconnect wiring harness/connector to the coil and secure clips.
9. Repeat for each cylinder
a. Replace and torque one plug at a time. Work in order 1→6 to avoid confusion.
10. Final checks
a. Reinstall engine cover and intake components.
b. Reconnect negative battery if disconnected.
c. Start engine, let idle, listen for misfires or roughness. Drive briefly and recheck for check‑engine lights or performance issues.
d. After initial run, re-torque coil bolts if required by manual (some techs check plug torque again after heat cycles).
Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Debris falling into the cylinder: always blow/vacuum out well before removal.
- Cross‑threading: always start new plug by hand; do not use ratchet until it turns freely.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing: use torque wrench; over‑tight causes head/thread damage, under‑tight causes compression/leak and plug loosening.
- Using anti‑seize indiscriminately: many modern plugs have plated threads; anti‑seize changes torqueing — only use if manufacturer permits.
- Not checking gap: some long‑life plugs ship pre‑gapped but can be incorrect for your engine.
- Removing all plugs at once: increases risk of debris and makes starting difficult; change one at a time instead.
- Reusing worn spark plug wires/boots: cracked boots or damaged wires cause misfires even with new plugs—inspect and replace if needed.
- Ignoring rubber insert on socket: a magnetic or rubber insert holds the plug and prevents dropping it deep into the head.
How specific tools are used
- Spark plug socket: 14 mm with rubber/magnet holds the plug; use an extension to reach down the well; universal joint navigates awkward angles.
- Torque wrench: set to the specified Nm/lb‑ft; snug to torque in one smooth motion. For tapered plugs, follow manual torque or final turn after hand seating.
- Feeler gauge/taper: slide between center and ground electrode to set precise gap.
- Compressed air: blow each well before removal to clear grit and grit that would otherwise fall into cylinder.
- Dielectric grease: small amount inside coil boot keeps moisture out and ensures good electrical contact without contaminating the plug or threads.
Estimated time
- 60–90 minutes for an experienced tech (replace all six). Longer if valve cover or intake must be removed.
That’s it. Follow OEM service manual values for gap and torque for exact specs for your model year. rteeqp73
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