- Overview
- Gear synchronizer function: allows smooth engagement of gears by matching speeds between gear and shaft using friction cones and blocking mechanisms; failure causes grinding, hard shifts, missed shifts or pop-out.
- For Hino 500 Series you must use the specific workshop manual for exact torque settings, oil type and disassembly order—this guide is general and intended for a competent DIYer; synchronizer work is advanced and may require shop tools.

- Safety & preparation
- Wear PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe shoes, hearing protection when using power tools.
- Secure vehicle: park on level surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery, use heavy-duty jack and rated jack stands or a vehicle lift; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Drain gearbox oil into a suitable container; dispose/recycle per local regulations.
- Label and photograph every part and assembly step; lay out parts in order on a clean tray.

- Tools (description + how to use)
- Ratchet and socket set (6-point, metric): for removing bolts and nuts; select correct socket size, engage fully, pull handle smoothly to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range, e.g., 10–150 Nm and 100–600 Nm): for final tightening to published torque specs; set desired torque, tighten until click, then stop—never use for breaking loose bolts.
- Combination wrenches (metric): for nuts in tight locations; hold wrench flush on flats, pull rather than jab to avoid slipping.
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat): for small fasteners and prying gently; use correct tip size to avoid stripping.
- Hex/Allen key set (metric): for any internal fasteners; apply steady torque.
- Snap ring pliers (internal/external): for removing/installing circlips and snap rings; use correct type (internal vs external) and keep rings under control to avoid loss or injury.
- Soft-faced mallet (rubber or dead blow): for persuading parts without damaging surfaces; give measured blows.
- Brass drift or soft punch set: for driving seals, pins or dowels without damaging steel.
- Bearing puller (2- or 3-jaw) and slide hammer: for removing bearings or pressed-on components; center puller, tighten evenly, extract slowly.
- Hydraulic press (or arbor press) (if available): for pressing bearings, sleeves, gears on/off shafts; align parts and press evenly, watch for slippage.
- Gear puller: for removing gears or synchronizer hubs; use correct size, apply steady force.
- Impact gun (air or electric) with impact sockets (optional): speeds removal of stubborn fasteners; use carefully—do not use for final torquing.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter: to support and lower the transmission safely; use rated equipment and straps to secure.
- Pry bars (various sizes): for separating housings; use carefully to avoid scoring mating surfaces.
- Feeler gauges: to measure clearances or shim gaps.
- Vernier caliper and/or micrometer: to measure ring thickness, shaft diameters and wear tolerances; compare to manual specs.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base: to measure endplay, runout or concentricity.
- Seal driver / bearing installer kit: to seat seals and bearings without damage.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and anti-seize: apply as specified by manual; thread locker prevents fasteners loosening, anti-seize prevents galling.
- Gasket scraper and solvent: to remove old gasket material; clean surfaces thoroughly.
- Cleaning supplies: parts cleaner (degreaser or brake cleaner), rags, nylon brushes.
- Replacement gaskets, O-rings, seals (OEM or equivalent): to reseal gearbox.
- Service/repair manual (Hino 500 Series transmission manual): for diagrams, torque specs, bearing part numbers and tolerances—essential.

- Extra/special tools (why required)
- Transmission jack: required to safely remove and reinstall the gearbox; a regular floor jack is unsafe for this heavy, awkward load.
- Hydraulic press or professional bearing puller: necessary to remove/install press-fit bearings and gears without damage; otherwise parts risk being ruined.
- Dial indicator: required to accurately measure synchronizer hub, sleeve runout and endplay—prevents reassembly with out-of-spec conditions.
- Micrometer/caliper: to measure wear on synchronizer rings and cone surfaces; visual inspection alone is unreliable.
- Snap ring pliers for both internal and external rings: many synchronizer assemblies use circlips that must be removed/installed correctly.
- Special Hino alignment tools or OEM pullers (if listed in manual): some transmissions require specific tools to align shafts or remove specific components safely.

- Diagnosis (symptoms indicating synchronizer repair)
- Grinding noise when shifting into a gear—synchronizer friction surfaces worn.
- Difficulty engaging a gear, or need to double-clutch—synchronizer not matching speeds.
- Gear pops out of engagement—worn hub, sleeve or spring.
- Vibration or abnormal gear noise—could be bearings or gear damage; inspect whole train.

- Removal of transmission (high level)
- Disconnect battery and drain gearbox oil.
- Remove driveline components: propshaft, linkage, shifters, mounts, electrical connections per manual.
- Support transmission with transmission jack, unbolt from engine/transmission mounts, lower carefully.
- Place transmission on clean bench for disassembly.

- Disassembly of gearbox and synchronizer stacks (high level)
- Remove outer housings and covers using correct sockets; keep fasteners labeled.
- Photograph and note gear positions, selectors, springs, shims and spacers.
- Remove shift forks carefully—mark their positions and check for wear or bending.
- Extract gearbox mainshaft and layshaft assemblies per manual sequence—avoid forcing parts.
- Remove snap rings and slide off synchronizer hubs, sleeves and rings; use snap ring pliers and press/puller as needed.

- Inspection (what to look for and acceptable actions)
- Synchronizer rings (cones)
- Inspect friction surfaces for scoring, glazing, missing teeth or uneven wear.
- If grooves worn smooth, ring is ineffective—replacement required.
- Measure ring thickness and cone diameter with micrometer; replace if below manual minimum.
- Synchronizer hub and sleeve
- Inspect internal splines, keyways, and teeth in the sleeve and hub for wear or broken teeth.
- Check for excessive play between hub and sleeve—if worn or rounded teeth, replace.
- Check sleeve engagement springs and blocking keys for fatigue or breakage—replace if weak.
- Blocking ring / blocker
- Check for worn engagement teeth or chips—replace if damaged.
- Bearings and races
- Check for pitting, roughness or play; replace worn bearings.
- Shafts and gear teeth
- Inspect gears for chipped or worn teeth; replace damaged gears.
- Shift forks
- Check for wear on contact surfaces; if worn beyond limits they will not operate sync properly—replace or re-surface.
- Seals, gaskets and spacers
- Replace all seals and gaskets when reassembling; do not reuse paper or compressed gaskets.
- Use micrometer, calipers and dial indicator to compare measurements against manual tolerances; if you cannot measure, replace consumables (rings, seals, bearings) rather than risk failure.

- Typical parts that may require replacement (and why)
- Synchronizer rings (cones): wear or glazing eliminates friction—replace to restore synchronizing.
- Synchronizer hub and sleeve assembly: worn splines or engagement teeth cause missed shifts—replace assembly.
- Blocking rings and springs: wear/failure prevents proper block/unblock actions—replace.
- Shift forks: bent or worn forks cause misalignment and uneven engagement—replace to prevent re-damage.
- Bearings and races: worn bearings cause play and misalignment—replace to protect gears and synchronizers.
- Seals, O-rings and gaskets: disturbed in disassembly—always replace to prevent leaks.
- Gear set (if gear teeth damaged): replace if chipped or pitted to avoid further gearbox failure.
- Input/output seals and mainshaft oil seals: leak-prone—replace during service.
- Fasteners (studs or bolts) that are stretched or damaged: replace to ensure correct clamping torque.

- Cleaning and preparation
- Clean all reusable parts with approved solvent, dry thoroughly.
- Inspect mating surfaces for burrs; lightly polish any minor scoring with fine emery if permitted by manual.
- Replace all seals/gaskets and install new O-rings; apply assembly lube to bearings and synchronizer cones as specified.

- Reassembly notes and critical steps
- Follow manual sequence and torque specs exactly—improper torquing of main caps or hub retaining nuts leads to catastrophic failure.
- Use new shim packs if endplay exceeded manual spec; measure endplay with dial indicator.
- Ensure synchronizer rings are oriented correctly (many are direction specific) and hub/sleeve teeth engage correctly.
- Apply correct type and amount of assembly grease to synchronizer cones (use light coat; do not contaminate with heavy grease).
- Install snap rings fully into grooves and verify retention.
- Reinstall shift forks aligned to selector mechanism; ensure free movement through all gears.
- Rotate shafts by hand to verify smooth engagement and correct gear mesh before final assembly.
- Replace gearbox fill/drain plugs with new crush washers if specified.

- Fluid and final checks
- Refill gearbox with the exact oil type and capacity specified in the Hino workshop manual.
- Start engine, with vehicle safely supported, and cycle through gears to bed-in synchronizers; take short test drive and monitor for leaks, noise and correct shifting.
- Re-torque accessible fasteners after initial run-in if manual recommends.

- When to replace vs. repair
- Replace synchronizer rings if friction surface worn or heat glazed.
- Replace hub/sleeve assembly if splines or engagement teeth are worn or broken.
- Replace bearings, seals and gaskets as standard practice when gearbox is opened.
- Consider full rebuild kit (synchronizer + bearings + seals + gaskets) for reliability—kits prevent repeated disassembly.
- If you lack measuring tools or press equipment, replace suspect parts rather than attempt reuse.

- Tips for a beginner (practical)
- If you do not have a transmission jack, press or dial indicator, rent them or have the job done by a transmission shop—attempting without them risks safety and costly damage.
- Work methodically: bag and label bolts, take many photos, and keep parts in order.
- Use OEM parts where possible; synchronizers are precision items—cheap aftermarket parts can shorten life.
- If unsure at any step, stop and consult the Hino manual or a qualified technician.

- Quick list of minimum required tools you must have (or rent/buy) before starting
- Transmission jack or vehicle lift
- Metric socket/ratchet set and extension bars
- Torque wrench covering required range
- Snap ring pliers (internal & external)
- Soft-faced mallet and brass drift
- Bearing puller or hydraulic press (or access to a shop press)
- Vernier caliper / micrometer and dial indicator
- Parts cleaner, gaskets, seals and rebuild kit for synchronizers
- Service manual for Hino 500 Series transmission

- Final safety reminder
- Gearbox work involves heavy components under load and precision tolerances; if you lack tools or confidence, have a qualified transmission technician perform the repair.

- Concise replacement part examples (common)
- Synchronizer ring kit (per gear; often sold as a set)
- Synchronizer hub and sleeve assembly
- Blocking rings and springs
- Mainshaft bearings and needle rollers
- Input/output shaft seals
- Full gearbox gasket/seal kit

- End (no extra yapping).
rteeqp73

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How to Replace A Hino Truck Transmission- How To CHANGE Gearbox OF A HinoTruck || How to Replace A TRUCK Transmission- How to Change Gearbox OF A Truck|| #TruckTransmission #GearboxRepair.

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1) Summary of what a gearbox seal does (theory)
- Purpose: a rotary shaft seal creates a controlled interference fit and a flexible sealing lip against a rotating shaft so lubricant stays inside and contaminants stay out.
- How it fails: lip wear, hardening, heat, abrasion, shaft scoring, corrosion, incorrect shaft finish or runout, axial play, bad installation, or degraded housing bore cause leakage.
- How replacement fixes it: a new seal restores correct lip geometry, spring tension and interference; when combined with correcting any shaft/housing damage or bearing faults, it re-establishes the dynamic seal and stops oil escape.

2) Safety & references (do this first)
- Use vehicle support (jack stands, hoist rated for truck), wheel chocks, and PPE.
- Work on cool gearbox. Prevent contamination. Clean area before opening.
- Always confirm torque values, oil type & capacity, bearing and shaft tolerances from the Hino 500 Series workshop manual — this procedure gives theory and sequence but not model-specific torque/oil numbers.

3) Tools & consumables
- Seal driver set or correctly sized socket, press or arbor press.
- Pullers, pry bars, extractor tools for covers/shafts.
- Clean rags, solvent, torque wrench, feeler gauges, dial indicator (runout), micrometer.
- New gearbox seal(s) (correct part number), new gaskets/O-rings, threadlocker/RTV as specified.
- Gear oil, anti-seize or light assembly grease for seal lip, copper/grey slip if recommended.
- Replacement bearings or sleeves if inspection requires.

4) Pre-repair diagnosis (confirm and find root cause)
- Identify leak source while running (paper/tissue) and visually—input shaft vs output vs housing seam.
- Check fluid level: low level indicates ongoing leak.
- Inspect for oil pattern, metal in oil (magnet or drain plug), and smell (overheated oil).
- Measure shaft runout with dial indicator and check axial play/endfloat. If runout or play exceeds spec, leaking seal will reoccur unless bearings/shafts are serviced.
Theory: without addressing shaft runout, worn shaft surfaces, or bad bearings, a new seal will fail quickly.

5) Drain gearbox
- Drain oil into a clean container for inspection. Note metal flakes or heavy contamination.
Theory: working with a dry gearbox reduces contamination risk.

6) Access & removal sequence (general order for Hino gearbox)
- Remove external components blocking access (prop shaft, crossmember, mounts) following safe support steps.
- If seal is on an input/output shaft that requires gearbox removal, support and remove gearbox from chassis per manual. Some seals can be replaced with gearbox in-situ; follow access method that avoids damage.
- Remove gearbox cover or bearing retainer to expose the seal. Keep fasteners organized and mark orientation of covers.
Theory: seal is seated in the housing/bore; access must allow straight removal and installation to avoid deforming the seal.

7) Remove the old seal(s)
- Carefully pry or extract the seal using appropriate tools; pull evenly to avoid enlarging bore.
- Inspect seal lip and spring (if accessible) to confirm failure mode (worn lip, torn, hardened, metal abrasion).
Theory: examining the old seal shows cause — e.g., metal scoring indicates a shaft problem.

8) Inspect shaft and housing
- Visually and tactilely inspect shaft journal where the seal rides: check for grooves, corrosion, pitting, or roughness.
- Measure shaft diameter and compare to spec; measure runout with dial indicator while rotating shaft (typical allowable runout is small — consult manual).
- Inspect housing bore for ovality or damage.
- Inspect adjacent bearings and bearing seats for wear, axial play or looseness.
Theory: a new seal needs a clean, smooth, correctly sized sealing surface and minimal shaft runout; otherwise the lip cannot maintain contact and will fail.

9) Repair or replace damaged parts (if necessary)
- Minor scratches: polish lightly with fine emery or crocus cloth until smooth and round; remove burrs and de-grease.
- Deep grooves/corrosion: machine, sleeve, or replace the shaft journal or shaft assembly as specified.
- Replace worn bearings, bushings, or bearing races if they cause excessive end float or runout.
Theory: sealing is a system; the seal only works if mating parts are within spec. Replacing the seal alone without correcting damaged mating surfaces or bearings is temporary.

10) Prepare new seal for installation
- Confirm correct seal part and orientation: garter spring or open lip faces the fluid; flat face toward housing/bore as per part design.
- Lightly coat the seal lip with clean gearbox oil or light assembly grease to prevent dry running at start-up.
- If advised by manual, preheat the seal slightly (not above manufacturer temperature) or cool the shaft to ease installation — or better, use a press/driver to avoid distortion.
Theory: lubrication protects the lip at first rotation; correct orientation is critical because lip/backside design controls pressure sealing.

11) Install seal correctly
- Use a sized seal driver and press evenly until the seal is flush to the housing shoulder. Do not cock the seal or hammer directly on the lip.
- Verify seal face is square and seated fully; check for damage to lip after installation.
Theory: uneven seating or lip damage causes gaps and immediate leakage.

12) Reassemble gearbox
- Replace gaskets or apply RTV as specified; tighten cover and retainer bolts in the correct sequence and to the specified torque (manual values).
- Reinstall any removed bearings, shafts, mounts, and external components in reverse order, following torque patterns.
- Refill gearbox with correct oil grade and quantity to the specified level. Replace drain/fill plugs with new washers if required.
Theory: correct torque and sealing of covers prevent additional leaks; correct oil type maintains lubrication and seal compatibility (some seals react to incompatible fluids).

13) Break-in and checks
- With vehicle supported, run gearbox at idle, monitor for leaks around the new seal(s).
- Re-check oil level after initial warm-up and top up as needed.
- Perform a road test under normal load, then re-inspect for leaks and re-torque fasteners if required.
- Monitor oil temperature and listen for unusual noises; inspect drain plug for metal particles after first service interval.
Theory: heat cycles and pressure changes during operation will reveal installation issues and seating problems.

14) How the repair fixes the fault (summary of mechanics)
- Leakage stops because the new lip spring/geometry re-establishes contact pressure and radial interference with a properly prepared shaft, preventing oil migration past the journal.
- If worn shafts or bearings were replaced or repaired, shaft concentricity/end float is restored so the seal lip runs uniformly without localized wear.
- Proper reassembly and oil re-fill restore operating pressures and lubrication film thickness that supports the lip and prevents cavitation or dry-running.

15) What to watch for afterward (prevention)
- Recurrent leak soon after replacement: likely root cause not fixed (shaft groove, excessive runout, wrong seal, incorrect installation).
- Slow weeping: check torque & seating, check for porosity/warped cover, or incorrect seal orientation.
- Maintain correct oil level and use correct oil chemistry to avoid seal swell/shrink or hardening.
- Replace seals and bearings as part of scheduled overhaul if mileage and wear warrant.

Done.
rteeqp73

Straight, practical workshop guide for “suspension strut tower” repair (Hino 500 Series). Written for a beginner mechanic — clear parts, why it matters, what can go wrong, step-by-step repair workflow, safety and checks. Note: Hino model years and configs vary; always confirm bolt torques, service procedures and special tools from the official Hino 500 Series workshop manual before starting.

Brief theory — why this repair is needed
- The strut tower is the upper structural mounting point for the front suspension strut (or shock/strut assembly). It carries vertical loads from the wheel into the chassis, resists braking/steering loads and keeps suspension geometry correct.
- Analogy: the strut tower is like the top jamb of a doorframe that the door pivots from. If the jamb is cracked, warped or rotted, the door won’t hang or swing right — same with the wheel and suspension geometry.
- If the tower is damaged by rust, collision, or fatigue, the strut won’t sit true, which causes poor handling, steering pull, uneven tire wear, noises, and can compromise vehicle safety. Repair restores structure, alignment and safety.

Main components you’ll encounter (detailed descriptions)
- Strut / Shock absorber assembly: hydraulic damper controlling wheel motion. On MacPherson-type setups the strut is structural (inner shaft and outer body). On some Hino variants the front uses a damper mounted to a separate tower; verify your model.
- Coil spring (if present): bears vehicle weight and sits on the spring seat of the strut.
- Upper strut mount (strut mount plate / bearing): bolted to the strut tower inside the engine bay. Often contains a bearing allowing the strut to rotate with steering.
- Strut top studs/bolts & nuts: pass through the strut tower to clamp the mount.
- Strut tower (inner wing/fender apron/chassis rail area): stamped or welded sheet-steel structure welded to chassis rails — the part to be repaired.
- Spring seat / perch and isolator: keep the spring seated and isolate noise.
- Dust boot and bump stop: protect the strut shaft and limit travel.
- Lower strut mounting point (to knuckle / lower control arm): usually bolted to steering knuckle.
- Steering knuckle / hub assembly: transmits wheel rotation and steering input.
- Anti-roll bar link and mounts: connect sway bar to control arm/strut; may attach near the tower area.
- Brake line brackets / ABS sensor brackets: often attached to suspension members near tower.
- Inner fender liners, wiring harnesses, battery tray (components in engine bay that may be removed to access tower).
- Reinforcement plates / gussets: factory or aftermarket plates that reinforce the tower area.
- Fasteners: studs, nuts, bolts, washers, thread inserts (if studs pulled out).
- Corrosion protection materials: seam sealer, primer, underbody coating.

What can go wrong (failure modes)
- Rust-through: corrosion eats the tower sheet metal, weakening structure and possibly letting studs pull through.
- Pulled or damaged studs: studs corrode or shear out; threads strip.
- Cracked/weld-seam failure: fatigue or impact causes cracks in welded seams or gussets.
- Distortion after collision: tower bent out of position; suspension geometry altered.
- Bearing failure: strut mount bearing seizes causing steering stiffness or noise.
- Improper repair: weak patching, poor welds, or wrong steel gauge lead to catastrophic failure.
- Secondary issues: damaged brake/ABS lines, wiring, or firewall penetrations; water ingress and continued corrosion.

Tools and materials (essential)
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, welding helmet, respirator when grinding/painting.
- Vehicle support: heavy-duty jack, rated jack stands (on flat surface), wheel chocks.
- Wheel removal: impact gun or breaker bar and lug sockets.
- Spring compressor made for the strut type (only use if removing/compressing springs) — essential and dangerous if improper.
- Penetrating oil, wire brush, cleaning rags.
- Socket set, combination wrenches, breaker bar, crowfoot/torque wrench (for torqueing fasteners).
- Ball joint separator or suitable tool (if separating knuckle from strut).
- Hydraulic press (optional) or shop vice for removing pressed bearings.
- Angle grinder with cutting wheel, flap disc and wire wheel (remove rust and old welds).
- Drill and bits, spot weld cutter, hole saws.
- MIG welder (preferred for sheet steel repair) or MAG; welding gas and appropriate wire. TIG may be used but MIG is common for structural repairs on trucks.
- Steel patches: mild steel sheet of the same gauge as original (or approved replacement panel); reinforcement gussets as needed.
- Nutserts / Helicoil / Heli-coil inserts / weld-in studs (for threaded repairs).
- Seam sealer, epoxy primer, underbody coating, rust converter.
- New strut top mount, bearing, studs/nuts/bolts, and new strut or rebuild kit if needed.
- Replacement lower-mount bolts (do not reuse critical fasteners if the manual says not to).
- Torque wrench and workshop manual for torque values and sequences.
- Clamps, magnets, and fiddly tools to position patches.

Safety and legal notes (read this first)
- Always support vehicle on rated jack stands; never work solely on a jack.
- Compressing springs and removing struts is dangerous — use the correct spring compressor and follow its instructions. A released spring can kill or maim.
- Welding on structural chassis parts requires good technique and understanding of steel metallurgy. Cold, porous or under-penetrated welds are a structural risk.
- Welding near fuel lines, fuel tank, or electrical components requires removing or protecting them and disconnecting the battery.
- Any structural repair to a commercial vehicle can affect crashworthiness. If the strut tower has been collision-damaged or if you’re unsure, refer to a certified frame/welding shop.
- After repair, wheel alignment is mandatory.

Diagnosis — how to inspect and decide repair vs replace
1. Visual: remove wheel and inner liner; look for rust-through, cracks along flange welds, deformed sheet metal, pulled studs and seam separation.
2. Tap test: use a small hammer to detect thin corroded metal (different tone).
3. Measure: compare suspension mounting points to the factory reference (or opposite side) for obvious distortion.
4. Thread check: try to remove strut top nuts. If studs spin or threads strip, tower threads are damaged.
5. Load test: with vehicle supported, observe play at knuckle or strut with a pry bar. Excessive movement indicates worn components or loose mounts.
6. If any structural crack, rust-through, or distortion exists — plan structural repair or replacement of panel. If only mount hardware or bearing is bad, simple replacement may suffice.

Step-by-step repair workflow (general, non-model-specific; consult Hino manual)
Overview: Remove strut assembly -> remove damaged metal -> fabricate and fit new patch/reinforcement -> weld and protect -> reassemble and torque to spec -> align.

A. Prep and access
1. Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, disconnect battery negative (recommended before welding).
2. Raise front and support on jack stands at rated lift points. Remove wheel(s).
3. Remove inner fender liner, battery tray, or other items blocking access to the strut top inside the engine bay.
4. Photograph and tag any wiring, hoses, brake lines before removal to ensure correct reassembly.

B. Remove strut assembly (safe sequence)
1. Support the lower suspension (control arm/knuckle) with a jack to keep geometry while removing lower bolts.
2. Disconnect sway bar end link, ABS/brake line brackets, sensor wires and any attachments from the strut/knuckle.
3. Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. You may need to separate the ball joint or lower arm depending on design — use correct separators.
4. If the strut has a top mount with three nuts in the engine bay: remove or back-off the top nuts AFTER compressing the spring. Important: do NOT remove top nuts before compressing the spring unless the spring is already supported. Use a proper spring compressor and follow its safety instructions.
5. Compress spring, remove top mount nuts, lift strut out as an assembly.
6. If replacing entire strut, you can replace it before reinstallation. If reusing strut, inspect shaft, seal, dust boot, bump stop, bearing.

C. Assess tower damage
1. Clean area with wire brush and grinder to bare metal to fully reveal extent of corrosion or cracks.
2. Map out cut lines: cut out all rusted or thinned steel back to clean, sound metal. If cracks exist, grind back to solid stops or cut out and prepare for a reinforcement plate.

D. Fabricate and fit patch panel
1. Use steel of the same thickness as original (or thicker if specified). Shape patch to match contours, including holes for studs and mounting flanges.
2. Make a template first (cardboard or steel), then cut patch.
3. Fit patch, leaving small gap (1–3 mm) for welding shrinkage; use clamps and magnets.
4. If original studs are threaded into tower and are reusable: consider drilling and tapping for replacement studs or use weld-in studs. If studs pulled out and the original boss is damaged, either weld-in new studs or fit a reinforcement plate that can be drilled and tapped for new studs or use nutserts/insert nuts per manual.

E. Welding and structural repair
1. Tack weld the patch in multiple places to control distortion. Use small stitch welds and allow cooling between passes.
2. Complete welds with appropriate penetration — continuous fillet welds where required for structure. For thin sheet, use short welds with adequate cooling to avoid burn-through.
3. If weld access is limited or factory uses spot welds, use a series of plug welds to mimic original construction.
4. Grind smooth as required, but avoid removing excessive weld material.
5. Reinforce with gussets or backing plates on the engine-bay side if needed.
6. Replace or install weld-in studs if required: weld from behind, then grind/clean threads. Protect heat-sensitive components during welding.

F. Corrosion protection and finishing
1. Clean welds of spatter; treat any exposed raw steel with rust converter or zinc primer.
2. Apply epoxy primer / seam sealer to all joints to prevent moisture ingress.
3. Paint and underbody coating to match factory corrosion protection.
4. Reinstall any removed inner liners, trays, insulation.

G. Reassembly
1. With strut tower repaired, reinstall strut assembly. If you removed strut bearing/top mount, fit new mount components and new nuts/studs as needed.
2. Reinstall lower strut bolts to knuckle and torque to factory spec.
3. Reattach sway bar links, brake line brackets, sensors, and any wiring.
4. Lower suspension back onto the ground and torque wheel lugs to spec.
5. Reconnect battery.

H. Post-repair checks and alignment
1. With the vehicle on the ground, check for unusual noises or steering resistance by turning the wheel lock-to-lock.
2. Always perform a full 4-wheel alignment. Structural repairs change geometry; align caster, camber and toe to Hino specs.
3. Test drive at low speeds, progressive check for clunks, pull or vibration. Re-check fasteners after short test drive (50–100 km).
4. If weld repair was extensive or accident-related, consider frame alignment check at a dedicated shop.

What to avoid and common pitfalls
- Don’t reuse badly corroded studs or damaged nuts. Replace with new hardware sized and graded per manual.
- Don’t cut into components that carry fuel lines, wiring, or brake lines without protecting/removing them.
- Don’t perform continuous long welds on thin sheet without breaks — warping happens. Use stitch welding.
- Don’t attempt repairs beyond your welding or fabrication skill — the strut tower is structural. When in doubt, hand to a frame/body shop.
- Don’t skip an alignment after structural repairs.

When to hand off to a pro
- Major collision damage with significant misalignment of chassis rails.
- Large sections of the tower or inner wing require replacement and jigs.
- You cannot achieve factory weld quality or you lack welding equipment/experience.
- If the repair is subject to commercial vehicle certification or inspection in your jurisdiction.

Quick checklist before considering job done
- All mounting nuts/bolts torqued to Hino specs (use manual).
- New/renewed strut top mount bearing installed if bearing was worn or disturbed.
- Threaded repairs secured with proper inserts or weld-in studs.
- Seam sealed and corrosion-protected welds.
- No interference with brake lines, hoses, wiring or heat shields.
- Full wheel alignment completed.
- Road test without noises or pull, re-torque after initial run.

Final concise summary
- The strut tower is a key structural element; repair is structural welding and fabrication work, not cosmetic. Safety first: correct supports, spring compression, and welding methods are mandatory.
- Inspect thoroughly, cut out all bad metal, fit same-gauge steel patches, weld with proper technique, protect against corrosion, reinstall with new hardware and then align.
- If you’re not confident in welding or the damage is heavy/collision-related, take the truck to a qualified frame/welding shop.

No extra comments — follow the Hino 500 Series workshop manual for torque values, torque sequences, and model-specific notes.
rteeqp73