- Safety first (must do)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic gloves, and steel-toe shoes to protect from falling parts and fluids.
- Work on a flat level surface, use wheel chocks, and disconnect the battery negative terminal before starting.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always support the truck with rated jack stands and use a transmission jack when lowering/removing the gearbox.
- Have a fire extinguisher and absorbent pads for fluid spills.

- Required reference
- Obtain the Hino FG17/FG19 Workshop Manual (service manual) for exact bolt torques, gearbox removal sequence, bearing part numbers, shims, and clearances — these values vary and are critical.

- Basic tools (what they are and how to use them)
- Metric socket set (6–36 mm, deep and shallow) with ratchet
- Use to remove bolts and nuts; deep sockets reach recessed studs; ratchet allows quick loosening/tightening. Use correct socket size to avoid rounding heads.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Use when space prevents socket use; hold the opposite side of a bolt while loosening with a socket.
- Breaker bar
- Provides extra leverage for stubborn bolts. Pull steadily; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range)
- Use to tighten bolts to specified torque. Pre-set to spec, tighten smoothly until it clicks and stop.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and small picks
- For clips, small screws, and prying seals carefully.
- Pry bars (various sizes)
- Use to separate components such as gearbox from bellhousing; leverage gently to avoid damaging casings.
- Hammer and brass or nylon drift
- Use brass/nylon to tap bearings or seals without damaging metal surfaces; use a steel hammer only where indicated.
- Punch set (drifts) and cold chisel
- For removing roll pins and driving out stuck dowels; support parts to avoid bending.
- Snap ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external)
- Use to remove/install snap rings on shafts and bearings. Choose correct tip size and orientation.
- Shop press or hydraulic bearing puller / slide hammer with attachments
- Use to press bearings off/on shafts. A hydraulic or mechanical press is safest for controlled force. Avoid hammering bearings on directly.
- Bearing puller (two- or three-jaw) and bearing separators
- Use to extract bearings off housings or shafts without scoring surfaces.
- Transmission jack (or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter)
- Use to support and lower the gearbox safely; align with bellhousing and lower evenly.
- Jack stands rated for truck weight
- Support the vehicle after jacking. Never work under vehicle on a jack alone.
- Drain pan and fluid pump
- Catch gear oil when draining; use pump to refill to correct level.
- Seal driver set and pilot bearing driver
- Use to install oil seals and pilot bearings squarely without damage.
- Clutch alignment tool (if clutch removal necessary)
- Centers clutch disc for proper gearbox reinstallation.
- Torque angle gauge (if service manual calls for torque‑angle)
- Use where specified for head or flywheel bolts.
- Wire brush and solvent (parts cleaner)
- For cleaning mating surfaces and removing old gasket material.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and anti-seize
- Use where manual specifies (e.g., bolts in high-heat areas use anti-seize sparingly; thread locker for fasteners subject to vibration).
- Marking tools (paint pen, scribe)
- Mark positions of parts/shafts before removal to preserve alignment.

- Extra or shop-grade tools that may be required (why they are needed)
- Hydraulic press (if you don’t have one, rent or use a machine shop)
- Required for safe, controlled pressing of bearings on/off the input shaft; avoids damaging the shaft or housing.
- Gearbox overhaul stand or bench
- Makes disassembly/reassembly safer and easier than working on the floor.
- Dial indicator and runout tool
- To check input shaft bearing preload, endplay, and gear runout; ensures correct shim selection and reliable rebuild.
- Bearing heater or induction heater
- Heats bearings to expand the bore for easier installation onto shafts (optional but useful for tight fits).
- Service manual-specific special tools (e.g., Hino input-shaft puller, flywheel holding tool)
- Manufacturer tools ensure correct, non-damaging removal/installation.

- Parts likely required (what and why)
- Input shaft bearing(s) (OEM Hino or equivalent)
- Replace if noisy, rough, has play, or shows pitting—bearing failure produces whining, vibration, and can damage the input shaft and gearbox gears.
- Output/other related bearings and seals (inspection recommended)
- When gearbox is open, other bearings and seals are exposed; replacing them now avoids a second major job later.
- Input shaft seal(s) and output flange seal(s)
- Seals should be replaced whenever the gearbox is opened to prevent leaks.
- Snap rings, shims, gaskets, O-rings
- Single-use items; shims control bearing preload and shaft endplay—replacing or restoring correct shim stack is essential.
- Clutch release pilot bearing/bushing (if present) and clutch grease
- If clutch removed, replace pilot bearing to avoid future noise or failure.
- Transmission oil (correct grade and quantity as per manual)
- New oil required after reassembly.
- Fasteners (replace bolts if torque-to-yield or corroded)
- Some critical bolts may be single use; replace if damaged.

- How to confirm the bearing needs replacement (symptoms)
- Whine or growl from gearbox that varies with engine RPM and not road speed.
- Excessive endplay or radial play on input shaft when gearbox removed or testing.
- Metal particles in gearbox oil or visual bearing damage (pitting, discoloration).
- Vibration or difficulty engaging gears originating from the clutch/transmission area.

- General procedure overview (high-level steps, follow workshop manual for details)
- Prepare truck: park, chock wheels, disconnect battery, safely raise and support vehicle.
- Drain gearbox oil into a pan.
- Remove components obstructing gearbox removal: starter motor, driveshaft/propshaft, crossmember, shifter linkage, speedometer cable/sensor, exhaust sections as needed, electrical connectors.
- Support engine if removing transmission mounts that carry engine load.
- Support and remove gearbox: align transmission jack under bellhousing, remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts, lower gearbox straight down.
- Secure gearbox on bench/transmission stand and photograph/label linkages and parts for reassembly.
- Remove clutch assembly if needed (pressure plate and clutch disc) using clutch alignment tool for reinstall reference.
- Disassemble gearbox input area: remove bellhousing cover, remove snap rings/circlips retaining the input shaft and bearing, unbolt any retaining covers.
- Extract input shaft assembly: slide shaft out carefully; note positions of spacer/shims and gears.
- Remove old bearing:
- Use bearing puller or separator to pull bearing from shaft, or press bearing off on a hydraulic press.
- Protect shaft journals and gear faces; use a sleeve so force is applied to bearing inner race if possible.
- Inspect shaft and gearbox bore:
- Check for wear, scoring, or heat damage. If shaft journal is scored, grinding/replacement may be required.
- Inspect gearbox housing bore for damage; a damaged bore may require re-bore by a machine shop or replacement housing.
- Install new bearing:
- Clean shaft and bore; apply light oil.
- Press bearing on by applying force only to the bearing race that is being pressed (inner race when pressing onto shaft).
- If installing into bore, press on outer race only.
- Use correct shims specified by the manual to set preload/endplay.
- Reassemble input shaft assembly with new snap rings/seals and the same orientation of gears/spacers.
- Refit gearbox, align to engine using pilot tool/clutch alignment, torque all bolts to manual specifications, and reinstall removed components.
- Refill gearbox with correct type and quantity of oil, reconnect battery, and run tests.

- How to use key tools in the job (practical tips)
- Transmission jack
- Center the gearbox on the jack plate, secure with straps, raise slowly while aligning to engine. Lower evenly; don't tilt suddenly.
- Bearing puller/separator
- Attach separators behind the bearing shoulder, place puller arms evenly, tighten center screw gradually and evenly until bearing releases.
- Hydraulic press
- Use appropriate adapters to press on/off bearing races; press slowly with steady force. Support parts squarely; never press on gear teeth or shaft journal directly.
- Snap ring pliers
- Choose the correct plier type (internal/external), insert tips into ring holes, squeeze or expand gently to remove/install. Keep a hand over the ring to prevent it from snapping out.
- Torque wrench
- Tighten fasteners in required sequence. Bring bolts to a snug level then finish to the specified torque in stages.

- Common pitfalls and warnings
- Do not hammer bearings on; this will damage races and cause premature failure.
- Do not reuse seals or snap rings that are deformed — they often fail if reused.
- Incorrect shim stack causes too much play or excessive preload — both cause failure; measure endplay per manual.
- If the input shaft journal shows deep scoring, do not install a new bearing without repairing/replacing the shaft — a damaged journal will destroy a new bearing quickly.
- Missing required special tools can lead to damage; if you lack a press or puller, use a reputable machine shop to press bearings for you.

- Post-replacement checks
- Check input shaft endplay and bearing preload per workshop manual.
- Refill gearbox and check for leaks.
- Test drive at low speed listening for abnormal noises, then retorque mounts/fasteners after first run if manual advises.

- When to seek professional help or machine shop
- If you lack a press or bearing-pulling tools — have bearings pressed by a shop.
- If shafts or housing are scored, heat-discolored, or out of round — machining or part replacement is needed.
- If you cannot diagnose correct shim stack or endplay — a technician with a dial indicator can set this correctly.

- Parts sourcing recommendations
- Order OEM Hino bearings and seals or high-quality equivalents (Timken/NSK/NTN) and match part numbers from the workshop manual or VIN.
- Buy a gasket/seal kit and a bearing kit when available to avoid multiple trips.
- Keep clutch components and pilot bearing on hand if you need to separate transmission from engine.

- Final note (practical)
- This is a moderate-to-advanced job for a beginner due to heavy lifting, the need for precision (shims and preload), and special tools. Rent a press or use a machine shop for the bearing removal/installation step if you don’t have the tools listed.

- Immediate next steps (concise)
- Get the Hino workshop manual, acquire the input-shaft bearing part number, source the bearing and seals, rent or buy a bearing press/pullers and a transmission jack, then follow the manual sequence precisely when working.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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ExxtraMile FastFind Hino, Mitsubishi, Isuzu, Nissan UD, Mazda, Daihatsu ... hino: rg197, rg197, rm197 fg19 fg19 1987-1991: ff19l ff19l 1987-1990: fg17 fg17 1987-1991: 04010.355: gasket kit - eng o/haul: mitsubishi: fe339 fe339 1993-1995 fe449 fe449 1990-1995: fe439 fe439 1990-1995 fg439 fg439 1992-1995: fe444 fe444 1986-1995: 04010.376: gasket kit - eng o/haul: nissan: clg87 clg87 1989-1992 cmb87 cmb87 1988-1989 cmf89 ...