Tools & consumables
- Metric socket/ratchet set (8–24 mm), deep sockets
- Breaker bar, extensions, swivel
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm range)
- Screwdrivers, pry bars
- Harmonic balancer/ pulley puller
- Gear puller (if drive gear must be removed)
- Seal puller and seal driver / large socket for installing front oil seal
- Pick/set for O‑rings, gasket scrapers
- Oil drain pan, rags, shop towels
- Clean engine oil for priming + correct capacity of replacement engine oil
- New oil filter, replacement oil pump assembly or pump overhaul kit (gaskets, O‑rings, relief valve parts if applicable), pickup tube gasket/seal, front oil seal if disturbed
- RTV (sensor/cover grade), solvent/degreaser
- Wire brush, torque fastener chart (workshop manual) for torque specs
- Safety items: gloves, eye protection, jack stands, wheel chocks

Safety precautions (do these first)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels and apply parking brake.
- Work on a cool engine. Hot oil/metal causes burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking.
- Support vehicle with jack stands before getting under it. Never rely on a jack.
- Use approved oil drain pan and dispose of used oil/filter per local regulations.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

Overview of procedure
1) Preparation and draining oil
- Run engine briefly to warm oil (not hot), then shut off. This helps drain.
- Place drain pan, remove oil drain plug and drain engine oil. Remove oil filter.
- Reinstall drain plug (or leave off until pump removal step if more convenient), but keep drain pan in place.

2) Gain access to oil pump
- Remove fan shroud and fan if it blocks access. On Hino FG17/FG19 the pump is at the front/lower area of the engine; you may need to remove belts, alternator bracket, air intake ducting, and possibly the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer and front timing cover for full access.
- Mark/photograph belt/ pulley orientation for reassembly.
- Remove crank pulley with puller if required (use breaker bar; keep track of bolt torque spec for reinstallation).
- Remove front cover/timing cover carefully; set bolts aside in order.

3) Removing the oil pump
- With the front cover off you will see the oil pump and drive gear/shaft. Support any pickup tube if present.
- Remove bolts securing the oil pump to the block. Keep bolts and note locations.
- If the pump drive gear is separate and must be removed, use a gear puller. Secure the pump body and pull straight to avoid damaging the shaft.
- Remove pickup tube and inspect screen. Replace pickup gasket/seal and screen if bent/dirty.
- Pull pump assembly out. Clean mating surfaces. Inspect drive key/shaft for wear. Replace if damaged.

4) Inspect parts and prepare replacement
- Compare new pump and gaskets to old. Replace front crankshaft oil seal if removed — it’s good practice when disassembling the front cover.
- Replace oil pressure relief valve parts or spring if included in kit or if worn/loose.
- Clean all oil passages and mating surfaces. Remove old gasket material with scraper and solvent.

5) Install new pump
- Lubricate inside of new pump with clean engine oil. Fill pump cavity and pickup with oil to prime it — this prevents dry start.
- Fit new pickup tube gasket/seal. Position pump in place, ensuring drive gear aligns with crankshaft drive.
- Install pump mounting bolts hand tight in sequence, then torque to workshop manual spec with torque wrench (if unknown, use correct factory specs — DO NOT guess). Tighten evenly.
- If front seal was removed, install new front seal with seal driver to avoid distortion. Apply a thin film of oil on the lip.

6) Reassemble front cover, pulley, accessories
- Apply new gasket or RTV as per manual to front cover, position, and torque bolts to spec in the correct sequence.
- Reinstall crank pulley/harmonic balancer and torque to spec. Reinstall belts and any removed accessories. Set belt tension per spec.
- Reinstall fan and shroud.

7) Prime and initial start
- Reinstall a new oil filter. Fill engine with the correct grade and quantity of new oil.
- Before starting, crank engine using starter in short bursts (with ignition disabled by fuel or ignition fuse removed OR have an assistant briefly crank while you monitor) to circulate oil and build pressure — but recommended method is to turn engine over with starter briefly (following safe cranking intervals) until oil pressure on gauge shows. Alternatively rotate engine by hand several turns if possible.
- Check for oil leaks around pump, pickup, front seal, filter, drain plug.

8) Final checks and test drive
- Start engine and monitor oil pressure and listen for unusual noises. Check for leaks for several minutes.
- Shut down and re-torque accessible bolts if specified in manual after initial run.
- Recheck oil level and top up to correct mark after engine has run and settled.
- Road test and then recheck for leaks, oil level, and pressure.

How specific tools are used
- Torque wrench: set to the specified torque for each fastener. Use correct socket seating and tighten bolts in the recommended sequence. If a bolt calls for torque + angle, use angle gauge or calibrated torque-angle tool.
- Pulley/harmonic balancer puller: attach evenly to the balancer and pull straight to avoid damage to crank snout. Protect threads with sleeve or spacer.
- Gear puller: center on gear, tighten evenly. Avoid prying the pump body as it will deform mating surfaces.
- Seal driver / large socket: drive new front seal squarely to the depth specified; avoid cocking which causes leaks.
- Seal puller/gasket scraper: remove old material carefully to avoid gouging mating surfaces.

Replacement parts typically required
- Oil pump assembly or pump overhaul kit (depending on condition)
- Pump gasket(s) and O‑rings (pickup tube gasket)
- Oil pickup tube gasket/seal
- Front crankshaft oil seal (recommended)
- Oil pressure relief valve parts (spring/valve) if worn
- New oil filter and engine oil (correct grade)
- Possibly a new drive key (if worn) and any damaged bolts

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not priming the pump: always pre-fill the pump and crank a few revolutions to avoid dry start and bearing damage.
- Reusing old gaskets/seals: replace all gaskets and O‑rings. Old seals often leak.
- Incorrect torque: under-torquing leaks; over-torquing strips threads or warps covers. Use a calibrated torque wrench and factory specs.
- Damaging the front seal: use proper seal driver and install square to avoid premature leaks.
- Improper pickup installation: a badly seated pickup or missing gasket causes air ingestion and low oil pressure.
- Contaminants: allow no dirt into oil passages. Clean thoroughly before reassembly.
- Wrong pump/model: ensure replacement pump matches engine serial/model — wrong flow/pressure characteristics cause issues.
- Not replacing filter and oil: contaminant left in old oil will circulate; always replace filter and fill with fresh oil.
- Forgetting to check oil pressure: verify with gauge — a working pump should bring oil pressure to spec within a few seconds.

Final notes
- Follow Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for exact torque figures, bolt sequences, and any model-specific steps (timing cover removal details, special tools, and torque+angle requirements).
- After service, watch oil pressure and leaks for the first 100–200 km and recheck oil level.

Done.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (deep and shallow), 8–24 mm sizes
- 6–12 point sockets for exhaust nuts/studs
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive) and 3/8" torque wrench (or 1/2" depending on fasteners)
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — use cautiously
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Wire brush, gasket scraper, brass/nylon brush
- Torque wrench (calibrated) — primary tightening tool
- Oxygen sensor socket or 22 mm open socket (if O2 sensor present)
- Pry bar, rubber mallet
- Stud extractor/left-hand drill bits and easy-out set
- Thread chaser or appropriate tap, and wire brush for cleaning threads
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp, on exhaust threads only if recommended)
- New exhaust manifold gasket(s), new nuts/bolts/studs as required
- Replacement manifold or downpipe flange gasket if damaged
- Shop rags, solvent/degreaser
- Jack, jack stands or vehicle hoist, wheel chocks
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, long sleeves, respirator if grinding/welding, hearing protection

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
1. Work only on a cold engine. Exhaust components retain heat for long periods — wait several hours after shutdown.
2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts and sensor damage.
3. Support vehicle safely with jack stands or use a hoist. Never rely on a jack alone.
4. Ensure good ventilation if you’ll be using penetrating solvents, heat, or welding.
5. Keep all combustible fluids/lines clear of open flames. If heating parts to free bolts, remove fuel/EVAP lines nearby or shield them.
6. Use eye protection for chipping, wire brushing, or torch work; gloves to protect hands from sharp/dirty edges.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Exhaust manifold gasket(s) — always replace
- Exhaust flange/gasket between manifold and downpipe — usually replaced
- Manifold studs/bolts and nuts — replace any that are corroded, stretched, or damaged
- Exhaust manifold heat shield clips/fasteners — often brittle, replace if broken
- New exhaust manifold if cracked or warped
- New sensors (O2, NOx, EGT) if removed and damaged

Preparation
1. Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake. Allow engine to cool fully.
2. Disconnect negative battery.
3. Raise and safely support vehicle if access from below is required.
4. Remove any obstructions: intercooler piping, intake ducting, battery tray, air cleaner housing, EGR cooler/pipe, heat shields covering the manifold. Label hoses/connectors.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Apply penetrating oil
- Soak manifold-to-head studs/nuts and downpipe flange bolts liberally. Let penetrate for several hours or overnight for heavily corroded fasteners. Reapply before attempting removal.

2. Remove sensors and ancillary components
- Disconnect any oxygen/temperature sensors in the manifold or downpipe. Use an O2 sensor socket to remove. Label wiring.
- Remove EGR pipe, turbo oil/coolant lines, and any brackets bolted to the manifold so you have clear access.

3. Remove heat shields
- Remove all heat shields covering the manifold. Heat shield bolts/clips are brittle — use penetrating oil and a gentle pry, replace clips as needed.

4. Loosen manifold-to-head nuts/studs
- Break each nut loose incrementally rather than trying to remove one at full force. Work them back and forth to ease rust bite.
- If using an impact wrench, use caution — impacts can snap studs. Prefer breaker bar + steady force unless the nut is free-turning on a bolt.

5. Remove downpipe flange bolts
- Support the downpipe before removing flange bolts so it won’t drop. Remove bolts/nuts. If flanged studs are broken, remove the flange and extract studs individually.

6. Extract studs/bolts if broken
- If studs break, apply thread extractor or use a left-hand drill to back them out. If the stud cannot be removed, use a professional stud removal method (welding a nut to the broken stub or helicoiling) — avoid damaging the head threads.
- Clean the thread holes with thread chaser or correct-sized tap. Use wire brush to clean surrounding surfaces.

7. Remove the manifold
- Remove remaining nuts and carefully remove manifold assembly. Some manifolds are heavy — support it and lower it straight out to avoid contact with sensors or tubing.

8. Inspect mating surfaces & manifold
- Inspect head mating surface for warpage, carbon build-up, and thread condition.
- Inspect manifold for cracks, warped flange, or broken studs. Check EGR and waste paths for blockages.
- Measure flange flatness with straightedge; if warped beyond spec, replace the manifold.

9. Clean surfaces
- Scrape old gasket material from head and manifold flanges using a gasket scraper and brass/nylon brush. Avoid gouging the aluminum or iron surfaces.
- Clean threaded holes with thread chaser; blow out chips with compressed air (wear eye protection).

10. Fit new gasket & fitment prep
- Always fit a new exhaust manifold gasket. Ensure orientation is correct.
- Replace studs/bolts/nuts with new hardware if original is corroded. Apply a thin smear of high-temp anti-seize to external threads only if recommended by the manual — do not apply to mating surfaces or torque faces.

11. Install manifold & hand-run fasteners
- Position the manifold and hand-start all nuts/studs to avoid cross-threading. Ensure gasket stays in place.
- Tighten in an even sequence: start at the center bolts and work outward in a crisscross/stagger pattern to seat the gasket evenly.

12. Torque to specification
- Use a calibrated torque wrench. Torque in stages: snug all fasteners, torque to 30% of final value, then 60%, then final torque.
- Important: Consult the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for exact torque values and sequence. Typical medium-duty diesel manifold nuts are often in the 40–70 Nm range (model and hardware-dependent) — confirm with factory manual before final torque.

13. Reattach downpipe & sensors
- Reconnect the downpipe with a new gasket. Tighten flange bolts to spec.
- Reinstall O2/EGT sensors; use anti-seize on sensor threads only where manufacturer permits (do not contaminate sensor tip).
- Reconnect EGR, turbo lines, brackets, and reattach heat shields.

14. Final checks & run-in
- Reconnect battery. Start engine and let idle. Inspect for exhaust leaks (listen for ticking or feel for leaks with gloved hand — be careful of hot parts).
- After thermal cycling (once warmed and then cooled), re-torque manifold nuts to spec if the manual requires a re-torque.

How the key tools are used
- Penetrating oil: spray generously on corroded fasteners; allow long soak. Reapply before attempting removal.
- Breaker bar: provides steady leverage to break rusted nuts loose without impact tool shock.
- Impact wrench: use to remove free-turning nuts quickly; avoid using to tighten finished torque. Impacts can snap studs; use cautiously.
- Oxygen sensor socket: locates the hex and cutout for the wiring harness; use to remove sensors without damaging wiring.
- Thread chaser/tap: cleans corroded/cross-threaded holes ensuring new studs/bolts seat properly.
- Stud extractor/left-hand drill: used for removing seized/broken studs; drill a small pilot then use extractor to back out.
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque, use in stages and follow the tightening sequence. Final torque must be accurate to prevent leaks/cracking.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Removing studs with impact and snapping them off: avoid using impacts on corroded studs; use penetrating oil, heat (carefully), and breaker bar first.
- Not replacing gaskets: leads to exhaust leaks and soot/corrosion. Always fit new gaskets.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: prevents proper sealing and causes leaks. Scrape and clean carefully.
- Over-torquing studs: can warp manifold flange or strip threads. Use correct torque specs and torque wrench.
- Using anti-seize incorrectly: too much or on torque faces changes torque reading — use only where specified (sensor threads or stud threads if manual permits).
- Forgetting to support the downpipe: causes stress on the downpipe flange and can break studs. Support before removing bolts.
- Ignoring heat shields and nearby components: heat shields and nearby lines can be damaged or reinstalled incorrectly — label and inspect all clips/fasteners.
- Not checking for other damage: EGR pipe, turbo flange, or downpipe corrosion often accompany manifold issues. Inspect and replace as necessary.

Post-repair checks
- Start engine and check for audible leaks at each joint.
- Use a piece of cardboard to feel for leaks (do not put hands near hot parts).
- After a heat cycle, re-check torque if manual requires re-torque.
- Re-scan for codes after reconnecting sensors and clear any present; verify operation.

Final note
Follow the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for exact torque values, tightening sequence, and any model-specific steps (EGR, turbo, or sensor locations differ). Replace all exhaust gaskets and any fasteners that show corrosion or deformation.
rteeqp73