Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: 10–32 mm sockets & wrenches, ratchet, extensions, breaker bar, screwdriver set, pliers.
- Torque wrench (suitable for spec ranges used on Hino).
- Impact wrench (optional, speeds removal).
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with transmission support block.
- Stands & chocks: hydraulic jack, 2–4 jack stands rated for vehicle weight, wheel chocks.
- Drain pan (large) and fluid pump for refilling.
- Seal puller / small slide hammer or hooked pick.
- Seal/bearing driver set or appropriate sized socket for pressing new seals.
- Line wrenches for cooler/pressure lines.
- Hose clamp pliers.
- Gasket scraper / razor blade.
- Brake cleaner or non-chlorinated parts cleaner and rags.
- UV leak dye and UV lamp (optional, speeds diagnosis).
- Torque seal / thread locker (if specified by manual).
- Replacement parts: correct transmission fluid, pan gasket (or RTV if recommended), pan bolts (replace if damaged), drain plug crush washer, transmission filter (if serviceable), output/input shaft seals, O-rings for cooler lines, cooler hose(s) or clamps as required.
- PPE: gloves, eye protection, nitrile gloves, drip-proof coveralls.

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Park on level surface, place wheel chocks, engage parking brake, put vehicle in gear (manual) or PARK (auto).
- Support vehicle on rated jack stands. Never work under a vehicle solely on a jack.
- Use a transmission jack or a second jack to support the transmission when unbolting mounts or driveshaft.
- Disconnect the battery negative when removing electrical connectors or working near starter/solenoid.
- Avoid breathing cleaning solvents; use in ventilated area.
- Hot components: allow engine/transmission to cool before working.
- Dispose of used fluid according to local regulations.

Step‑by‑step procedure (diagnosis → common repairs)

1) Initial diagnosis — locate exact leak source
- Clean suspected area thoroughly with parts cleaner and rags (engine side, bellhousing, pan, cooler lines, output flange).
- Put a large drip pan and cardboard under the transmission. Start engine (or cycle gears with engine off for manual) and observe for fresh seepage. Use a UV dye in the fluid and a UV lamp to find fine leaks.
- Inspect: transmission oil pan gasket, drain plug, cooler lines & fittings, speedometer/PTO seals/flanges, driveshaft universal joint flange, output shaft seal, bellhousing seam, torque converter area (auto).
- Note: narrow down to one source before removing parts. If multiple areas are wet, clean and re‑test after first repair.

2) Pan gasket / drain plug repair (common, least invasive)
- Place drain pan under transmission. Remove drain plug (if present) and drain fluid. If no plug, loosen pan bolts gradually to let fluid drip from one corner, then remove.
- Remove pan, inspect for metal shavings (magnet) and condition of filter (if serviceable, replace filter).
- Clean pan seating surfaces on transmission and pan. Remove old gasket material with scraper; avoid gouging mating surfaces.
- Replace pan gasket or apply manufacturer-specified sealant/RTV. Replace crush washer on plug if applicable.
- Fit pan, hand‑thread bolts, then torque in an even criss-cross/star pattern to specified torque (consult FG17/FG19 manual). Over‑torquing will deform pan/gasket — common pitfall.
- Refill with specified transmission fluid to the recommended level. Start engine, cycle gears, check for leaks.

How tools are used here:
- Drain pan captures fluid; torque wrench ensures correct bolt tension; gasket scraper removes old material; hand tools remove/install bolts.

3) Cooler hoses / line leak
- If leak found at cooler lines or fittings: clean area, support lines, place pan beneath.
- Use line wrenches to loosen flare fittings to avoid rounding hex. Replace O-rings/copper crush washers on lines and torque to spec. Replace any degraded hoses/clamps.
- After reassembly, start engine and inspect. Top up fluid.

Tool tips:
- Line wrench prevents rounding. Use new crush washers; reusing is a common pitfall.

4) Output shaft / driveshaft seal replacement (moderate difficulty)
- Support vehicle securely. Mark drive flange orientation to maintain balance if required.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack to take load off mounts if needed.
- Remove driveshaft: remove U‑bolt/bolts, slide shaft back, or unbolt flange depending on configuration.
- Remove output flange/companion flange. Inspect flange and shaft for grooves or wear — a grooved shaft will destroy a new seal; replace or repair if needed.
- Remove old seal carefully with seal puller or small hook; avoid scoring bore.
- Clean bore and apply a light film of transmission fluid to new seal lip. Use a seal driver or socket of equal diameter to tap new seal in squarely until flush per manual specification (some seals sit slightly recessed — check service manual).
- Reassemble flange and driveshaft, torque bolts to spec.
- Refill and check for leaks.

How tools are used:
- Transmission jack supports the assembly when removing driveshaft or output flange. Seal driver ensures even seating; improper seating is a frequent failure cause.

5) Input/torque converter or rear/main case leaks (high difficulty)
- If leak originates from the bellhousing / torque converter seal / transmission casing seam, transmission will likely require partial or full removal.
- Follow the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual to:
- Disconnect electrical connectors, speed sensors, cooler lines.
- Support engine if engine-transmission alignment may shift.
- Unbolt transmission mounts, lower with transmission jack.
- Replace input/tc seal with correct procedure, inspect mating surfaces, replace gasket or seal as required.
- This is advanced work — refer to factory manual for torque sequences and alignment dowel practices. Consider dealer/experienced transmission shop if unsure.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not cleaning surfaces: residual oil prevents good gasket/seal seating — always clean thoroughly.
- Reusing old seals, O-rings, crush washers: replace them every time.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing pan / flange bolts: use a calibrated torque wrench and manual-recommended pattern.
- Driving with the leak: this can damage gears/torque converter — repair promptly.
- Installing seal crooked: use a driver of correct diameter and press evenly; a cocked seal will fail quickly.
- Ignoring shaft grooves: installing a new seal on a grooved shaft will cut the lip; replace or polish shaft.
- Using wrong fluid type or incorrect fill level: always use manufacturer-specified fluid and fill to the correct level; overfilling or underfilling causes problems.
- Not supporting transmission when unbolting mounts or driveshaft: transmission can drop, causing injury or damage—use a transmission jack.

Post‑repair checks & finishing
- Clean area, run engine to operating temp, cycle through gears multiple times, and reinspect for leaks.
- Road test under normal conditions, checking once more.
- Re-torque bolts after initial road test if service manual requires re-check.
- Properly dispose of used fluid and contaminated rags.

Replacement parts typically required
- Pan gasket (or RTV as specified)
- Drain plug crush washer
- Transmission filter (if serviceable on that model)
- Output/input seals (as identified)
- Cooler line O-rings/copper washers/hose clamps
- Any damaged bolts or flange hardware

When to escalate to a pro
- Leak from torque converter or input shaft seal requiring transmission removal.
- Evidence of internal damage (metal particles in pan, abnormal noises, slipping).
- If you lack a transmission jack or lifting/support capability — transmission removal is heavy and dangerous.

Final note
- Use the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for exact torque values, seal part numbers, and specified transmission fluid type/capacity. Follow manual procedures for removal/installation sequences and safety-specific steps.

Done.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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