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Jeep Wrangler TJ 1998-1999 repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: metric/SAE sockets & ratchets, combination wrenches, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–200 ft·lb)
- Transmission jack or heavy floor jack + safety stands
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external)
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- 2‑ton shop press (or hydraulic press) and suitable receivers
- Drift punches, brass/nylon drifts, cold chisel
- Soft‑face hammer and dead‑blow hammer
- Seal driver set / socket set for seals
- Feelers / straight edge, dial indicator (for endplay), micrometer (optional)
- Clean solvent, rags, parts tray, RTV gasket maker
- New transmission fluid, gear oil, and gasket/seal kit
- Replacement parts: synchronizer ring(s) (brass or carbon), synchronizer hub/sleeve (if worn), synchro springs/keys, shift fork pads or replacement forks, input/mainshaft bearings & seals (if worn), snap rings, any worn gears or shafts
- Safety: gloves, eye protection

Safety precautions (do these first)
- Work on a flat surface; chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle on quality jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack when removing/installing the gearbox.
- Wear eye protection and gloves while press‑working bearings/springs.
- Keep a clean, well‑lit bench and organize small parts. Contamination causes failures.

Overview (what you’re doing)
Synchro repair = remove transmission, bench‑disassemble the mainshaft/cluster, replace worn synchro rings/sleeves/springs and any worn bearings or forks, then reassemble to factory clearances. On a TJ this applies to AX15/NV3550 style 5‑speed boxes — confirm your transmission model and get the factory service manual for torque and clearance specs.

Step‑by‑step

1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect battery.
- Raise vehicle, secure on stands.
- Drain transmission fluid into a catch pan.

2) Remove transmission from vehicle
- Remove driveshaft(s) and tag/mark orientation.
- Remove shifter boot and shifter assembly (note selector positions).
- Disconnect clutch slave (or hydraulic line), release bearing, and remove clutch fork if needed; separate gearbox from clutch.
- Disconnect speedometer cable/sensor, transfer case (mark alignment), and wiring connectors.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack; remove bellhousing bolts and lower the transmission. Keep bolts organized by length.

3) Clean & prep for bench work
- Place transmission on bench on a wood block.
- Remove tail housing/shift cover and drain any remaining fluid.
- Photograph or note orientation of forks, rails, and selectors as you go.

4) Disassemble the gearbox (bench)
- Remove snap rings retaining bearings/gear clusters with snap‑ring pliers.
- Use a press or gear puller to remove bearings and gears from the mainshaft and countershaft.
- Remove shift forks and rails. Keep forks aligned with their rails and mark positions.
- Remove synchronizer hubs, sleeves, keys, springs, and rings. Keep small springs/keys in a parts tray.
- Inspect all snap rings, keys, and thrust washers as they come out.

5) Inspection — do not skip
- Check synchronizer rings for wear: rounding, missing or heavily grooved friction surface. Replace if worn or matching gear cones are scored.
- Inspect synchronizer hub teeth/splines and sleeve internal splines for wear or shaving.
- Check shift fork contact pads for wear; replace or fit new pads.
- Inspect bearings (input/mainshaft/countershaft) for play/noise and race pitting — replace as needed.
- Inspect gears and cones for chips, excessive wear, or heat discoloration.
- Check shafts for scores, straightness, and spline wear.
- Measure side play/endplay of shafts with dial indicator and compare to manual; check bearing preload where applicable.

Replacement parts required (common)
- Sync ring(s) that match the gear(s) being repaired (majority are brass-type or carbon-type for 3rd/4th)
- Hub/sleeve if splines are worn or sleeve is loose
- Shift fork pads or new forks if warped
- Bearings & seals if worn or noisy
- Snap rings, spacers, thrust washers as required
- Gaskets and clutch/throw‑out components if disturbed

6) How to remove/install common components (tool use detail)
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress or expand the ring to remove/install. Ensure ring seats fully in groove — improperly seated rings will fail.
- Press / bearing puller: use matched receivers to press bearings off shafts evenly. Support the inner race when pressing off; press on the race that will be receiving force (do not press on bearing seals).
- Gear puller: use evenly spaced puller arms and protect gear face with a plate; tighten slowly and evenly.
- Seal driver: heat hub slightly (oil bath or torch very briefly) for stubborn interference fits — avoid overheating. Use seal driver sized to the seal and drive squarely until flush.
- Dial indicator: mount and zero off a fixed point, then measure axial endplay by moving shaft; compare to factory spec and shim as required.

7) Reassembly basics
- Clean all parts with solvent, dry, and lightly oil bearings and mating surfaces with assembly lube or light gear oil.
- Install new synchro rings with correct orientation — friction surface faces the gear cone; rings typically have a stepped/angled face that must contact cone properly.
- Install hub/sleeve assembly and insert keys/springs into the groove; ensure spring tension and orientation are correct. Tiny springs must seat in the hub/key slots — if they pop out, the hub/sleeve assembly will not lock properly.
- Replace all snap rings with new ones if old rings are stretched or deformed.
- Reinstall shift forks onto rails in the original orientation. Verify forks engage the new hubs/sleeves where intended.
- Reinstall bearings and races using the press, ensuring they seat to the correct depth. Install seals last.
- Check mainshaft endplay and bearing preload; adjust with shims or by torqueing retaining nut to spec per manual. Use dial indicator for final confirmation.
- Torque all nuts/bolts to factory specs (consult factory manual for your TJ transmission model).

8) Reinstall transmission
- Clean bellhousing and clutch surfaces; replace pilot bearing/seal if removed.
- Use clutch alignment tool when refitting clutch if you removed the clutch.
- Bolt transmission to engine, reconnect slave cylinder/clutch linkage, speed sensor/cable, shifters, and transfer case. Reinstall driveshaft(s).
- Refill with correct type and amount of gear oil (factory spec).
- Bleed clutch hydraulic system if disconnected.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery.

9) Final checks
- Start vehicle, check for leaks, verify smooth shifting in all gears while stationary (engine off using clutch for false neutral check can be skipped — road test required).
- Road test under light loads, shift through all gears. If you hear crunching or grinding, stop and recheck fork alignment and synchro installation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing worn synchro rings or sleeves — replace rings always if worn; worn hubs/sleeves cause rapid re‑failure.
- Installing synchro rings backwards — always verify friction face orientation; wrong install causes immediate poor synchro function.
- Losing/incorrectly installing small springs or keys — these are critical; handle with a parts tray and good lighting.
- Not replacing bearings or seals at the same time — bearings are inexpensive relative to dropping the trans again.
- Improper snap ring seating — rings must fully seat in groove; check with a pick.
- Not checking endplay/preload — incorrect clearances cause noise, gear wear, or bearing failure.
- Contamination during assembly — clean parts thoroughly; dirt causes premature wear.
- Using the wrong lubricant for break‑in — use the correct weight/type and follow break‑in recommendations.

Notes & final advice
- Get the factory service manual for your TJ’s exact transmission (AX15, NV3550, etc.) for torque specs, shim thicknesses, and endplay specs — these are critical.
- If hub/sleeve splines are visibly chewed, replace hub/sleeve assembly or the full synchronizer pack.
- Consider a rebuild kit (full synchro kit) — cheaper and safer than piecemeal parts, and includes seals, rings, and often forks/pads.
- If you are not comfortable with pressing bearings, setting preloads, or precise measurement, have a transmission shop perform the rebuild.

Done.
rteeqp73

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