Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) or hydraulic lift
- Engine support beam or engine hoist (with chain/strap) OR hydraulic jack with wide wooden block
- Socket set (metric), deep sockets, extensions
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Breaker bar and ratchet
- Torque wrench (capable to required torque)
- Impact wrench (for removals only; verify final torque with torque wrench)
- Pry bar
- Punch or drift and hammer (for stubborn studs)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Wire brush / thread chaser
- Thread locker (medium strength) or anti-seize per OEM spec
- Clean rags and degreaser
- Replacement mount(s), bolts/nuts/studs (OEM recommended)
- Safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots
- Wheel chocks, marker or paint pen

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on level ground; chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when removing electrical connections or near moving parts.
- Never rely solely on a jack to support the engine or vehicle. Always use jack stands or an engine support beam.
- Support the engine from a solid lifting point (engine lifting eyes if using hoist) or through the oil pan with a wide block contacting the pan flange—avoid concentrated point loading that can deform the oil pan. If unsure, use an engine hoist/support.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear when lowering engine.
- Do not use open flame or excessive heat near rubber or hydraulic mounts.
- Follow the Hino N04C workshop manual for torque specs and tightening sequence.

Overview of procedure
You will be supporting the engine, removing the old mount(s), installing the new mount(s), aligning the engine, and torquing bolts to spec. The process below is for typical engine shock/engine mounts on a Hino N04C installation — adapt to vehicle/chassis configuration (front/rear/side mount).

Step-by-step repair
1) Preparation
- Park vehicle on level concrete. Chock rear wheels and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Remove any obstructing components to access mount: air intake hose/airbox, battery tray, intercooler piping, alternator/bracket, radiator shroud, or coolant fan if they block access. Label connectors and bolts.
- Clean area around mounts so you can see bolt heads and bracket condition.

2) Inspect and identify mount(s) to replace
- Visually inspect mount rubber/hydraulic body, brackets, and stud threads. Note orientation and alignment marks (if present). Mark relative position of mount to chassis/engine with paint or scribe for reassembly reference.

3) Position engine support
- Place a floor jack under oil pan with a 2–3 in. thick wooden block between jack saddle and sump flange to distribute load, or rig an engine support beam/hoist using designated lifting eyes.
- Slowly lift just enough to take weight off the mount (engine should not be lifted more than a few mm; you only want to relieve clamp load).
- Confirm engine is stable on the support before proceeding.

4) Loosen & remove mount bolts
- Apply penetrating oil to mount bolts/studs; allow soak time if corroded.
- Use appropriate socket and breaker bar to break loose mounting nuts/bolts. Use impact wrench for stubborn fasteners but back up with torque wrench when tightening later.
- Remove mounting nuts/bolts. Keep track of washers and spacers; note orientation and order.
- If stud is seized in bracket, support bracket and use punch/drift to drive stud through, or cut stud and re-tap hole if necessary. Use caution to avoid damaging bracket.

5) Remove the old mount
- Remove mount bracket and mount assembly. You may need to pry slightly; use a pry bar carefully between bracket and engine/chassis, avoid leveraging on rubber part.
- Inspect mating surfaces for cracks, elongation of holes, and bracket distortion. If brackets are cracked or deformed, replace or repair before fitting a new mount.

6) Prepare mounting surfaces & new mount
- Clean threads with wire brush and thread chaser. Clean mating surfaces of dirt, grease, and rust.
- Compare old mount to new one; verify orientation, length, and bolt pattern. Replace bolts/nuts/studs if stretched or corroded. Use OEM replacement mounts (Part numbers vary by chassis) — hydraulic mounts and rubber mounts are not interchangeable.
- Apply thread locker or anti-seize as recommended by Hino manual — generally apply medium thread locker to mounting bolts unless the manual specifies dry threads.

7) Install new mount
- Position new mount in exact orientation as removed (use your reference marks).
- Fit any spacers/washers in the correct order. Insert bolts by hand to ensure correct thread engagement.
- Tighten bolts snugly by hand, but do not torque yet. Keep engine supported with original weight relieved.

8) Align engine & final torque
- Slowly lower the jack/support so engine slowly takes its weight on the new mount. Ensure engine settles naturally into position; do not force or over-compress the mount.
- With engine at correct ride height, tighten mount bolts to Hino torque specification and sequence. Use a calibrated torque wrench — final torque MUST be per the manual. If you do not have the manual, note typical practice: tighten in stages, gradually increasing to final torque.
- If any bolts require pressing or are torque-to-yield, replace with new bolts.

9) Reassemble removed components
- Refit any removed items: alternator, air intake, battery tray, fan shroud, hoses, etc. Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and check for unusual noises or vibration. Let idle and observe engine position relative to chassis; look for contact with hoses or wiring.

10) Final checks
- Lower vehicle from jacks safely if used, remove supports and chocks.
- Road test with varying RPM/load to check for vibration, noise, or movement.
- After 100–200 km, recheck torque of mount bolts and overall condition.

How the tools are used (specifics)
- Engine hoist/support beam: attach to approved engine lifting points; take load only to a level where you relieve mount force. Use the chain/strap with equalized points. Do not lift beyond what's needed.
- Floor jack + wooden block: jack gives support directly beneath oil pan; the block spreads load so the pan is not deformed. Never pry engine with jack unsupported.
- Breaker bar: provides initial leverage to break seized bolts. Use slow, steady movement to avoid rounding heads.
- Impact wrench: useful for removal of corroded nuts; DO NOT use impact to final-torque critical mounting bolts — always use torque wrench for final tightening.
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque, apply smooth, even force until wrench clicks. If a sequence is specified (e.g., cross-pattern on multi-bolt mount), follow it.
- Penetrating oil: spray on aged bolts and allow time to penetrate (10–30 minutes). Re-apply if necessary.

Replacement parts required
- New engine mount assembly (OEM Hino N04C-specific part)
- Replacement mounting bolts/studs/nuts as required (recommended if corroded or torque-to-yield)
- Washers/spacers (match original)
- If brackets are cracked or deformed — replace bracket or entire mount bracket assembly
- Thread locker or anti-seize (as per OEM guidance)

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Unsupported engine: Never remove the last mount without properly supporting the engine — avoiding this can cause serious injury and component damage.
- Over-lifting engine: Lifting engine too high distorts driveline geometry and can damage hoses, pipes, or wiring. Lift just enough to relieve mount load.
- Incorrect orientation: Installing mount backwards or rotated results in premature failure or vibration. Use reference marks.
- Reusing damaged bolts or studs: Bolts can be stretched or corroded — replace as necessary.
- Not cleaning/repairing mating surfaces: Dirt or rust can prevent proper seating and preload — clean and dress surfaces.
- Missing torque specs: Do not guess torque values. Always use the workshop manual torque values and sequence.
- Damaging oil pan: Using a small jack contact can dent the sump. Use a wide wood block or use hoist.
- Heat damage to rubber: Avoid using a torch on or near mounts; heat will ruin rubber/hydraulic elements.

Post-repair inspection checklist
- All mount bolts torqued to spec and fasteners present
- Engine sits at correct height and aligned to chassis
- No contact between engine and frame/components
- No leaks (oil, coolant) caused during work
- No unusual noises or vibration during idle and road test
- Re-torque check after initial road test mileage

End notes
- Always cross-check the Hino N04C workshop manual for exact torque values, bolt thread sizes, mount part numbers, and any special instructions.
- Prefer OEM replacement mounts for correct damping characteristics. Cheap aftermarket mounts often fail prematurely and can transmit vibration.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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