- Safety first (read before doing anything)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a flat surface, set parking brake, chock opposite wheels.
- Use a quality hydraulic floor jack and rated jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before any work near the transmission, transfer case, or electrical connectors.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clean up spills immediately.
- Always consult the specific factory service manual for your 4Runner year/model for torque specs, lift points, and fluid types.

- Basic tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric and deep sockets, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives)
- What it is: ratchet handles and detachable sockets sized to nuts/bolts.
- How to use: pick the correct socket size, push onto the ratchet, place over fastener, turn with steady force. Use 3/8" drive for most bolts; 1/2" drive for larger suspension/drivetrain bolts.
- Why needed: removes and installs nuts/bolts on drivetrain components.
- Combination wrenches (metric open and box)
- What it is: individual wrenches sized to fasteners.
- How to use: use box end for better grip on tight bolts; open end when space is limited. Hold wrench steady and apply force perpendicular to the handle.
- Why needed: bolts in tight spaces where a socket won’t fit.
- Breaker bar
- What it is: a long non-ratcheting bar for loosening stubborn bolts.
- How to use: fit a socket on the end and apply slow, steady force; avoid jerky movements.
- Why needed: overcomes seized or high-torque fasteners like driveshaft flange bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type or digital)
- What it is: wrench to apply a precise torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten until the wrench clicks (or readout shows value). Recheck after initial seating.
- Why needed: critical for drivetrain bolts to prevent failure or leaks and ensure safe reassembly.
- Pry bar / large flat screwdriver
- What it is: metal bar for leverage.
- How to use: wedge carefully between parts; use a block of wood to protect surfaces when prying.
- Why needed: separate flanges, remove stubborn parts like axles or seals.
- Hammer and mallet (ball-peen and rubber mallet)
- What it is: striking tools; rubber mallet to avoid damage.
- How to use: use light taps to persuade parts; use drift punches with a hammer for pins.
- Why needed: seat or remove components, persuade corroded parts free.
- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint, locking)
- What it is: gripping and holding tools.
- How to use: use needle-nose in tight places, locking pliers for clamping, slip-joint for general gripping.
- Why needed: remove clips, hold nuts, manipulate small components.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What it is: basic drivers for screws and prying small items.
- How to use: match tip size to screw head to avoid stripping.
- Why needed: access covers, electrical connectors, trim removal.
- Drain pan and fluid pump
- What it is: container for draining gearbox/differential fluids and pump for refilling.
- How to use: place pan under drain plugs, remove plugs, catch fluid; use pump to refill to correct level.
- Why needed: fluid changes for differential, transfer case, transmission.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner
- What it is: cleaning tools for flanges and mating surfaces.
- How to use: remove rust and debris before reassembly; blow dry with clean cloth.
- Why needed: ensure good mating surfaces and prevent leaks.
- Shop rags and gloves
- What it is: absorbents and hand protection.
- How to use: wipe fluids, protect hands from cuts/chemicals.
- Why needed: cleanliness and safety.

- Extra / specialized tools (why required)
- Transmission jack or low-profile floor jack with adapter
- Why required: to safely lower/remove a transmission or transfer case. The transmission is heavy and awkward; using a normal floor jack without proper support is dangerous.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) and impact sockets
- Why required: removes stubborn flange bolts quickly; not strictly required but saves time and reduces effort.
- Snap ring pliers
- Why required: remove/install internal snap rings in U-joints, bearings, or CVs. Essential when disassembling driveshaft ends or differential internals.
- Bearing puller / hub puller / slide hammer
- Why required: removes pressed-on bearings, hubs, or stubborn CV axles from knuckles. Without them you can damage parts.
- Press (hydraulic shop press) or bearing driver set
- Why required: pressing bearings on/off driveshafts, pressing U-joints in. Large repairs (wheel bearings, carrier bearings) often need a press.
- CV axle puller or axle nut socket and torque adapter
- Why required: axle nuts are large and require high torque; specialized sockets protect splines. A puller helps remove the axle from the hub without damage.
- Seal puller and seal driver
- Why required: to remove and install oil seals without damaging housings.
- Dial indicator and runout gauge (for differential/drive shaft balancing)
- Why required: check backlash and runout when servicing ring & pinion or driveshaft balancing.
- Service manual and OEM torque/spec charts
- Why required: exact procedures, torque values, fluid types, and safety steps are model-year specific; required for safe, correct repair.

- Common drivetrain issues on Toyota 4Runner and beginner-friendly repairs (what to replace, why, and general steps)
- U-joint (universal joint) failure
- Symptoms and why to replace: clunking or vibration under acceleration/reverse, visible play or rusted/dry caps. U-joints wear and can fail catastrophically.
- Parts needed: replacement U-joint kit (match flange size / 4Runner year, up to OEM/quality aftermarket).
- Tools used: socket set, hammer, punch, bench vise or C-clamp, snap ring pliers, grease gun.
- Basic steps overview: support driveline, remove driveshaft bolts, remove driveshaft, press or hammer out old U-joint, install new U-joint with new snap rings, grease new joint, reinstall driveshaft and torque bolts to spec.
- Notes: if caps are corroded or the joint is seized, a press or specialty tools make removal safer and avoid ruining the driveshaft yoke.
- CV axle replacement (front drive axle on 4WD models)
- Symptoms and why to replace: clicking on turns, grease around boot, vibration. Faulty CV joint requires replacing axle or boot if minor.
- Parts needed: replacement CV axle or CV boot kit if only the boot is torn (boots require clamps and grease).
- Tools used: axle nut socket (usually large), breaker bar or impact, jack & stands, pry bar, torque wrench, punch/hammer.
- Basic steps overview: loosen axle nut with wheel on ground, jack vehicle, remove wheel, disconnect sway/ABS links as needed, remove axle nut and hub bolts, separate hub from axle, use pry bar to pop axle free from transmission differential, remove axle, install new axle, torque nut to spec, refill any lost fluid, road test.
- Notes: sometimes transmission/transfer case fluid will leak when removing axle — have drain pan ready and top up to spec after installation.
- Driveshaft flange/center bearing or carrier bearing replacement
- Symptoms and why to replace: vibration at certain speeds, noise, visible play. Bearings wear and center supports can fail.
- Parts needed: center bearing/carrier bearing assembly or driveshaft replacement if severely damaged, U-joint kits.
- Tools used: socket set, pry bar, bearing puller or press, torque wrench.
- Basic steps overview: mark driveshaft orientation, unbolt driveshaft ends, support and remove, press out old bearing, press in new one, reinstall aligning mark and torque bolts.
- Notes: always balance driveshaft if damaged or after repairs.
- Differential fluid change and pinion seal replacement
- Why to perform: old fluid causes wear, burnt smell, metal shavings indicate internal damage. Pinion seals leak and must be replaced to prevent fluid loss.
- Parts needed: correct gear oil, pinion seal, crush sleeve (if replacing pinion yoke or removing nut with crush sleeve), gasket or RTV if applicable.
- Tools used: socket set, torque wrench, drain pan, seal puller, seal driver, torque collar socket.
- Basic steps overview: remove fill and drain plugs, drain fluid, remove pinion nut and yoke if replacing seal, pull old seal, install new seal with driver, reinstall yoke with correct torque/crush sleeve procedure, refill with specified gear oil.
- Notes: pinion nut/crush sleeve procedures are critical — follow shop manual. Improper assembly changes bearing preload and destroys the differential.
- Transfer case fluid/service
- Why to perform: prevent wear, remedy leaks.
- Parts needed: transfer case fluid, gasket or seal as needed.
- Tools used: drain pan, pump, socket set.
- Basic steps overview: drain fill plug, remove drain plug, inspect fluid, refill to level per manual.
- Wheel bearing replacement (front/rear)
- Symptoms and why to replace: growling noise, play in wheel, uneven tire wear. Bearings are safety-critical.
- Parts needed: wheel bearing/hub assembly or bearing kit (replace hub assembly if available).
- Tools used: hub puller, press or appropriate socket/drift to remove/install bearing, impact/torque wrench.
- Basic steps overview: remove wheel and hub components, press out old bearing, press in new bearing or bolt on new hub assembly, torque to spec.
- Notes: many modern 4Runners use full hub assemblies that replace the bearing plus hub, making the job easier for a beginner (bolt-on).
- Transmission or transfer case removal / rebuild
- When replacement is required: severe slipping, burnt smell, metal in fluid, catastrophic internal failure. Rebuilding requires specialized tools and expertise.
- Parts needed: transmission rebuild kit or replacement remanufactured transmission, gasket sets, seals, torque converter (auto) possibly replaced.
- Tools required: transmission jack, engine support bar (if engine needs support), specialty alignment tools, clutch alignment tool (manual), full set of service-level tools, lifts or ramps.
- Recommendation: transmission/transfer case removal/rebuild is advanced and dangerous for a beginner. Consider professional shop or renting a transmission jack and thoroughly following factory manual procedures.
- Notes: if transmission is leaking at seals, replacing seals or pan gasket and filter change may solve some issues without full removal.

- How to diagnose what needs replacement (practical beginner tips)
- Visual inspection
- Look for torn CV boots, leaking seals, rusty or loose U-joints, fluid leaks, metal flakes in oil.
- Listen and feel
- Vibrations, clunks, growls, clicks on turns point to U-joints, CV joints, or bearings.
- Basic tests
- With vehicle safely supported, grab driveshaft or axle and check for play. Rotate wheel/hub to feel roughness in bearings.
- Fluid inspection
- Drain small amount of differential/transfer case fluid into clear container: metal particles or burnt smell signal internal damage.

- Parts selection guidance
- OEM vs aftermarket
- OEM: exact fit, reliable, sometimes pricier.
- Quality aftermarket: can be equal or better for common wear items (U-joints, axle assemblies). Choose reputable brands and compare warranty.
- When to replace vs repair
- Replace U-joint or entire driveshaft if joint is failed or yokes are damaged.
- Replace CV axle assembly if joint is bad; replace boot only if joint is still good and undamaged.
- Replace hub assembly (if available) instead of pressing bearings for simpler install and reliability for beginners.
- Replace seals and gaskets when leaks are present; if internal damage is suspected (metal shavings), rebuild or replace the affected component.

- Torque and reassembly notes (safety-critical)
- Always torque bolts to factory specs; under-torqued bolts can fall off, over-torqued bolts can strip or break.
- Mark orientation of driveshaft and flanges before removal to keep balance and avoid vibration.
- Use new fasteners where one-time stretch nuts or torque-to-yield parts are used (e.g., some axle nuts or lock nuts).
- Replace cotter pins, retainers, and any single-use hardware.

- Fluids and consumables
- Differential gear oil (GL-5) and amount depend on model/year.
- Transfer case fluid and automatic transmission fluid as specified by factory.
- Grease for U-joints and bearings as required.
- RTV sealant or new gaskets where applicable.
- Clean rags, solvent, new crush sleeve or yoke hardware if required by service manual.

- When to stop and get professional help
- Any procedure requiring a transmission jack, removing the transmission/transfer case without proper support, setting ring-and-pinion backlash, or pressing bearings if you lack a press.
- If you find metal flakes in gear oil, unusual gear noise, or anything beyond simple U-joint/axle/ seal replacement.
- If you’re unsure about torque specs or preload procedures—these are critical and can cause catastrophic failure if done wrong.

- Final practical advice (quick, no fluff)
- Do simpler jobs first: fluid changes, U-joints, axle replacements, hub assemblies.
- Rent or borrow specialty tools when needed rather than improvising—a proper tool prevents damage and injury.
- Keep a clean workspace, label bolts and parts, take photos during disassembly for reference on reassembly.
- Always follow the factory service manual for your exact 4Runner year/model for specifications and sequences.

- Example parts you may buy (common beginner purchases)
- U-joint kit (match drive flange size; many online vendors let you search by year/model)
- Complete CV axle assembly (OE or premium aftermarket)
- Hub assembly (bolt-on replacement hub with bearing)
- Pinion seal kit and differential gasket or RTV
- Gear oil (GL-5) and transfer case fluid as per manual
- New axle nut, cotter pins, and any worn hardware

- Final safety reminder
- Don’t work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands and wheel chocks. If a job requires tools or steps you don’t have or are not comfortable with, use a reputable shop.

No questions.
rteeqp73

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