- Safety first (read and follow these exactly)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Work on a flat, level surface; engage parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting electrical or drivetrain work.
- Use quality jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — and keep bystanders away.
- Use a transmission jack or equivalent rated support when removing the gearbox; dropping a gearbox or engine can cause severe injury or death.
- If you are unsure at any step, stop and get a qualified technician.

- Essential tools and what each does (detailed)
- Metric socket set (6mm–24mm common sizes), deep and shallow sockets
- Use for removing bellhousing bolts, flywheel/pressure-plate bolts, crossmember bolts, starter and ancillary components.
- Use a ratchet for speed and a breaker bar for tight bolts.
- Torque wrench (capable of accurate torque in the range needed for transmission and flywheel bolts)
- Required to tighten bolts to manufacturer torque values to avoid failure or warped parts.
- Use the correct square drive size; set to specified torque and re‑check after initial run-in if manual specifies.
- Breaker bar
- Provides high leverage to loosen stubborn bolts without stripping sockets or ratchets.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional but very helpful
- Speeds removal of stubborn bolts; use cautiously on reassembly (prefer torque wrench for final tightening).
- Transmission jack (rated for the gearbox weight) or heavy-duty floor jack plus wood cribbing and at least one helper
- Safely supports and lowers the transmission. Essential for alignment during removal/installation.
- Engine support bar or second jack (if engine must be supported)
- Prevents the engine from tipping when transmission is removed.
- Pry bars and alignment pry tool
- Helps disengage transmission from engine and separate parts gently; avoid gouging mating faces.
- Clutch alignment tool (specific to the clutch disc spline size)
- Centers the clutch disc on the input shaft for correct reassembly; without it the transmission input shaft won’t slide in.
- Pilot bearing/bushing puller (or appropriate socket/drift)
- Removes the pilot bearing without damaging the crankshaft.
- Snap ring pliers and small drift punches
- Used for small clips and alignment tasks.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), hammer (rubber and brass), cold chisel
- For small fasteners, freeing parts and removing stubborn dowels or seals.
- Wire brush and degreaser
- Clean mating surfaces before assembly.
- Brake/clutch cleaner and lint-free rags
- Remove oil and grease from friction surfaces.
- Grease (high-temperature, manufacturer recommended) or anti-seize for splines
- Light smear on input shaft splines to ease assembly; do NOT get grease on friction surfaces.
- Replacement hardware kit (flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts if one-time-use)
- Some bolts are stretch/torque-to-yield and must be replaced; consult manual.
- Hydraulic line tools (wrenches for clutch slave/master lines)
- For disconnecting and reconnecting hydraulic clutch components.
- Bleeding kit or clear hose and catch bottle
- For bleeding the clutch hydraulic system after installation.
- Dial indicator and runout gauge — optional
- For checking flywheel runout if you suspect warpage.
- Flywheel resurfacing equipment — NOT typically in a home shop
- If the flywheel is heat‑spotted or scored it should be machined by a professional; otherwise clutch life will be short.
- Shop manual for Hino N04C / vehicle chassis service manual
- Contains torque specs, bolt sequences, hydraulic data and any special steps for the Hino layout — required reference.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Hydraulic press (for removing/installing pilot bearing or pressing out worn bearings)
- If the pilot bearing is stuck or pressed in tight, a press removes it cleanly. Without it you risk damage to the crankshaft.
- Impact driver (for stubborn screws) and penetrating oil
- Helps free rusted or seized fasteners.
- Engine support fixture or hoist
- If the engine needs to be slightly shifted or supported when removing the transmission on cab-over trucks.
- Grinder or flap wheel and mask for cleaning dowel surfaces
- Prepare mating surfaces; don’t over-grind.

- Parts you should replace (what, why)
- Clutch disc (mandatory)
- Friction material wears; always replace when removing the transmission.
- Pressure plate (strongly recommended)
- Springs/diaphragm lose clamping force; matching new disc and plate ensures longevity and proper clamp.
- Release bearing / throw-out bearing (mandatory)
- Bearings wear and can seize or make noise; cheap insurance to replace while accessible.
- Pilot bearing or bushing (recommended)
- Supports the transmission input shaft; if worn it causes vibration and premature wear.
- Flywheel (resurface or replace as needed)
- If heat spots, glazing, scoring or cracks exist, the flywheel must be machined or replaced. A machined/resurfaced flywheel must remain within thickness/runout tolerances defined in the manual.
- Flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts (replace if specified)
- Some are torque-to-yield; always replace if the manual calls for replacement.
- Clutch hydraulic parts: slave cylinder, master cylinder, hydraulic hose (if leaking or old)
- Leaks or worn seals cause poor clutch engagement. Replace if showing wear or weeping; bleeding required after replacement.
- Transmission input shaft seal (recommended)
- Prevents oil contamination of new clutch; replace seal if leaking or whenever you remove the transmission.
- Clutch fork and pivot (inspect, replace if worn)
- Worn pivot can change engagement geometry and wear the release bearing quickly.
- Misc: new gasket/sealant for the bellhousing area if applicable.

- Procedure overview — step-by-step actions (bulleted)
- Prepare vehicle and workspace: chock wheels, disconnect battery negative, raise vehicle, support on jack stands, remove under-tray or splash shields for access.
- Remove components blocking transmission removal: intake routing, exhaust crosspipe as needed, driveshaft/prop shaft(s), starter motor (label connectors), speedometer/gearbox cables or sensors, transmission cooler lines if present.
- Support the transmission with transmission jack; support engine if needed so it doesn’t sag.
- Remove transmission mount(s) and crossmember; unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts while supporting gearbox alignment.
- Separate transmission from engine: use pry bars in bellhousing slots, pull straight back. Have helpers steady the transmission as it clears input shaft splines.
- Lower transmission with the jack; move it back to create working room.
- Remove pressure plate bolts in a star pattern while holding the pressure plate to prevent it dropping; remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Inspect flywheel: clean with brake cleaner and visually inspect for heat spots, grooves, or cracking.
- If light scoring only, have flywheel resurfaced by machine shop; if deep scoring or cracks, replace flywheel.
- Remove pilot bearing/bushing and replace if worn. Replace release bearing and, if applicable, the clutch fork pivot/bush.
- Clean mating surfaces on the crank and bellhousing face with a wire brush and solvent; ensure dowel pins are intact and clean.
- Install new pilot bearing/bushing (use press or driver to seat evenly). Lightly grease input shaft spline with recommended high-temp grease.
- Seat clutch disc against alignment tool into the flywheel register, mount new pressure plate and finger-tighten bolts. Use the clutch alignment tool to center the disc.
- Torque pressure plate bolts to Hino specified torque in the correct tightening sequence (star pattern). Use torque wrench — do NOT guess torques.
- Replace any required seals and the transmission input shaft seal before reinstallation of gearbox if serviceable.
- Align transmission input shaft to the clutch disc spline using the alignment tool; slide the transmission forward smoothly on the jack while keeping it level until bellhousing mates to engine.
- Install and torque bellhousing bolts to spec; reattach crossmember, mounts, starter, driveshaft, exhaust, sensors and electrical connectors in reverse order of removal.
- Refill/inspect hydraulic clutch fluid; bleed the clutch system until pedal is firm and no air remains.
- Adjust clutch pedal free-play per manual if non-self-adjusting system; confirm full release and engagement travel.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, start engine with transmission in neutral and slowly test clutch engagement under no-load conditions before road testing.
- Road test gently: avoid high torque loads for the initial break-in period (follow clutch manufacturer break-in instructions, commonly a few hundred kilometers of light use).

- How to use a few key tools correctly (short practical tips)
- Torque wrench
- Set to desired torque, tighten bolts in small increments following sequence; never use an impact to finish bolt torque — torque wrench only.
- Transmission jack
- Center gearbox, strap it securely, raise/lower slowly and keep it supported when disconnecting fasteners. Two people for safety during shift/align.
- Clutch alignment tool
- Insert through clutch disc into pilot bore, hold centered while tightening pressure plate bolts; remove after pressure plate is torqued.
- Pry bar
- Use gently to separate flange faces; protect machined surfaces with wood blocks to avoid gouging.
- Bleeding clutch
- Have one helper depresses the pedal while you open bleeder, close it, repeat until clear fluid/no bubbles; keep reservoir topped up.

- Common problems and how to avoid them
- Contaminating clutch faces with oil/grease — avoid touching friction surfaces; replace contaminated disc/pressure plate.
- Warped flywheel — causes chatter and premature wear; resurface/replace as needed.
- Incorrect torques — causes bolt failure or warped parts; always use torque wrench and manual specs.
- Misalignment on installation — prevents transmission full engagement; use alignment tool and transmission jack.

- Final checks and break-in
- Check for leaks, loose bolts, and correct fluid levels.
- Initial test: idle engine, engage/disengage clutch, listen for abnormal noises.
- Break-in: follow clutch manufacturer instructions (commonly light loads, progressive engagement for first 300–500 km).

- When to get professional help (do this if any apply)
- You can’t safely support or align the transmission with the tools/people available.
- Flywheel needs machining and you don’t have access to a reputable machine shop.
- There is heavy corrosion, broken studs/bolts, or seized components.
- You are uncomfortable performing hydraulic bleeding or torque-critical work.

- Final note
- Use the Hino N04C service/workshop manual for exact bolt sizes, torque values, sequences, and any model-specific steps — these specifics are required and differ by vehicle and model year.
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