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Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

1) Quick theory — what an ignition coil does
- An ignition coil is a transformer: a low-voltage primary winding (fed by the battery through the ECU/ignition driver) and a high-voltage secondary winding. The ECU grounds/pulses the primary; when the primary current is interrupted a large voltage (kV range) is induced in the secondary and passed to the spark plug to jump the gap and ignite the air–fuel mixture.
- Coil-on-plug (COP) modules used on many Colorado/Rodeo petrol engines combine the coil and high-voltage lead/boot in one unit mounted directly over each spark plug. A failed coil cannot produce a reliable high-voltage pulse or produces erratic pulses, causing misfire, rough idle, loss of power, increased fuel consumption and a P030x or coil-specific fault code.

2) Confirming the coil is the problem (ordered, logical checks)
- Read fault codes with a scanner. P030x = misfire on cylinder x. Coil-specific codes or “coil A primary/secondary” codes confirm coil involvement.
- Swap test: with ignition off, swap the suspect cylinder’s coil with a known-good coil from another cylinder, re-scan/run engine. If the misfire/code follows the coil, the coil is bad.
- Multimeter checks (only as a screening test): measure coil primary resistance (typical range ~0.4–2.5 Ω) and secondary resistance (~5k–15kΩ). Compare to spec in the manual — out-of-spec or open indicates failure. Note: some coils have internal electronics so resistance alone can be misleading.
- Visual inspection: cracked boot, oil contamination, corrosion of connector, damaged wiring or burn marks indicate likely coil failure.

3) Safety and preparation (do this before working)
- Park on level, engine cold, key out. Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent ECU/ignition activity and arcing.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep ignition key away.
- Gather correct replacement coil(s), ratchet, appropriate sockets, small torque wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize only if recommended for plugs, and replacement spark plug(s) if plugs are old/worn.
- Refer to service manual for the exact coil and torque specs for your specific Colorado/Rodeo engine.

4) Removal — ordered step-by-step (COP style)
1. Remove any engine cover or intake components obstructing access.
2. Unplug the electrical connector from the coil: press tab and pull straight off. Do not pry on wiring.
3. Remove the coil retaining bolt(s) (usually a small hex or 10 mm); keep bolts in a safe place.
4. Pull the coil straight up and out — do not twist heavily. If stuck, rock gently while pulling to avoid tearing the boot.
5. Inspect the coil boot and the spark plug well for oil or debris. Clean with compressed air or shop rag.
6. Inspect the exposed spark plug. If the plug is fouled, worn, or at the service interval, remove and replace it now (spark plug socket + extension). Check/gap the replacement plug per spec (many modern plugs are pre-gapped). Install plug to spec torque (typical 20–30 Nm; confirm manual).
7. Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (keeps moisture out; do not use in the spark plug gap). Do not use anti-seize on coil boots.

5) Installation — ordered
1. Seat the new coil straight onto the plug until it clicks/fully seats on the plug terminal.
2. Fit and tighten the coil retaining bolt to the specified torque (typical coil bolt ~6–10 Nm; confirm manual).
3. Reconnect the electrical connector until it latches.
4. Reinstall any removed covers or intake parts.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

6) Post-install checks (ordered)
- Clear stored codes with scanner. Crank and start engine; observe idle.
- Use the scanner to confirm no misfire codes and monitor live misfire counts and ignition timing if needed.
- Road test under load to ensure power delivery is normal and no recurrence.
- If misfire persists on the same cylinder after replacing coil and plug, inspect wiring to the injector and crank/cam sensors and compression for mechanical faults.

7) Why the repair fixes the fault (theory tied to steps)
- A new coil restores the proper transformer action and high-voltage pulse amplitude and timing. That produces a reliable spark at the correct moment, enabling complete combustion in that cylinder.
- Correct spark eliminates partial combustion (misfire), stops unburned fuel entering the exhaust (reduces emissions and catalytic converter damage), restores engine balance (smoother idle, regained power) and allows the ECU to return fuel trims and ignition strategy to normal. Clearing codes removes the stored misfire/coil faults once the condition disappears; live monitoring prevents replacement for non-coil causes.

8) Common pitfalls and notes (short)
- Don’t reuse a coil with a cracked boot or corroded connector.
- Always check and/or replace worn spark plugs when changing coils—old plugs often cause new coil failures if left in place.
- Replace coils in pairs or all if multiple failures/age-related — coils commonly fail with age/heat cycling.
- Use exact torque specs from the service manual; over-torquing can crack the coil housing or strip threads.
- If the misfire doesn’t move when swapping coils, the problem is likely not the coil (spark plug, injector, wiring, compression, ECU driver).

End.
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