Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Summary: below are clear, step‑by‑step instructions for replacing common gearbox seals on a Holden Colorado / Rodeo (manual gearbox). Covers both the easier tail/output seal (can often be done with the transmission in the vehicle) and the more involved input/mainshaft seal (usually requires gearbox separation). Tools, safety, how each tool is used, replacement parts and common pitfalls are included. Refer to a factory workshop manual for model/year specific torque figures and seal part numbers.

Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock wheels and use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves and steel‑toe boots.
- Allow drivetrain to cool. Gear oil and metal parts can be hot.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal when separating engine/transmission or removing starter wiring.
- Drain gearbox oil into an approved container and dispose of it properly.

Parts & consumables commonly required
- Correct replacement seal(s) (input/mainshaft seal and/or output/tailshaft seal) — use OEM or high‑quality aftermarket.
- Gearbox oil to refill to correct specification.
- Thread locker (medium strength) for bellhousing/drive bolts if specified.
- New crush washers/seal washers for drain/fill plugs if required.
- Light grease for seal lip during installation.
- Optional: pilot bearing, throwout bearing/clutch inspection items if gearbox removed.
- Clean rags, gasket maker if required.

Tools needed (typical)
- Metric socket and spanner set, breaker bar, torque wrench.
- Transmission jack or suitable support and floor jack with heavy timber cradle.
- Jack stands and wheel chocks.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips).
- Seal puller (hook‑type) and/or thin blade pry bar.
- Seal installer/driver set (various diameters) or use a suitable socket with a wooden block as a driver.
- Drift/soft mallet (brass or dead blow).
- Snap ring pliers (if seal retained by circlip).
- Bearing puller or slide hammer (if required by design).
- Engine support bar or transmission support for separating gearbox from engine.
- Torque wrench.
- Punches, small pry bar.
- Clean solvent for degreasing and lint‑free rags.
- Shop light.

General notes on how tools are used
- Seal puller: insert the hooked end behind the seal lip and pull evenly, avoiding gouging the bore. If hook can’t engage, use a thin screwdriver to pierce and grab, but protect the bore with a block.
- Seal installer/driver: use a driver whose outside diameter matches the seal outer lip; press evenly and squarely, tapping around the circumference with a soft mallet until the seal bottoms. This prevents lip distortion.
- Transmission jack: supports gearbox during unbolting and lowers/raises on/off the engine spline. Use safety straps.
- Torque wrench: tighten fasteners to specified torque — do not “eyeball”. If manual unavailable, use conservative torque and recheck after a short test drive.

Procedure A — Output / tailshaft seal replacement (in‑vehicle, common and quicker)
Note: Many Colorado/Rodeo tailshaft seals can be replaced without full gearbox removal by removing the prop shaft, tail housing/ output adapter or diff side cover. Steps below are generic — specific disassembly depends on gearbox variant.

1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, jack and support vehicle on stands.
- Drain gearbox oil: remove drain plug, drain into container, reinstall drain plug finger tight until reassembly. Keep the fill hole open to help drain.

2) Remove prop shaft(s) and access
- Mark driveshaft orientation relative to flange so it goes back the same way.
- Remove U‑bolt or flange bolts and disconnect prop shaft. Secure out of the way.
- Remove any rear tailshaft housing bolts, clamps or circlips that retain the tail housing. Some designs have a flange/adapter you remove to access the seal.

3) Expose the seal
- Once the tail housing or retainer is removed, the lip of the seal will be exposed. Clean surrounding area thoroughly so no debris falls into gearbox.

4) Remove the old seal
- Use a seal puller or a small hooked screwdriver to engage the inner lip or ridge of the seal and pry it out gradually. Work around the seal evenly. Protect the bore with a thin shim or block to avoid gouging.
- Inspect the bore and shaft for corrosion, scoring or burrs.

5) Prep and install new seal
- Clean the area, remove any burrs from shaft with fine emery if necessary (don’t remove material, just smooth).
- Lightly coat the inner lip of the new seal with clean gearbox oil or light grease. Do not overpack with grease.
- Choose a seal driver the same outer diameter as the seal. Place driver square on seal and tap evenly around circumference with a dead blow or brass mallet until the seal is fully seated. The seal face should be flush or installed to factory depth (if workshop manual specifies depth, follow it). Avoid hammering on the inner rubber — use the outer driver.
- If a circlip retained the seal, refit it.

6) Reassemble and refill
- Refit tail housing/adapter and torque bolts to spec. Refit driveshaft, aligning the marks, torque flange bolts.
- Refill gearbox with specified amount and type of gear oil through the fill hole until it reaches the fill level (usually fill plug level). Install fill plug with new washer if required.
- Lower vehicle, run engine, cycle gears to check for leaks, test drive and recheck oil level.

Procedure B — Input / mainshaft seal replacement ( gearbox usually removed )
The input or mainshaft seal sits where the gearbox input shaft enters the bellhousing; most times the gearbox must be separated from the engine.

1) Preparation & support
- Chock wheels, raise vehicle, support on stands. Disconnect battery negative.
- Remove any undertrays, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder (or disengage but don’t remove hydraulic line unless necessary), selector linkages, speedometer cable/sensor connectors, and any wiring harnesses on the gearbox. Drain gearbox oil.

2) Support transmission and remove
- Support the engine with an engine support bar if removing lower bellhousing bolts or gearbox suspension mounts. Support the gearbox with a transmission jack and strap it securely.
- Remove crossmember/transmission mount bolts. Remove propshafts/diff connection(s). Remove bellhousing bolts to engine (loosen in a star pattern). Note bolt lengths/positions.
- Slide gearbox rearwards off input shaft and lower with the trans jack clear of the engine. Be careful — alignment is critical.

3) Access the input seal
- With the gearbox removed, access the input shaft and seal from the bellhousing side. In many boxes the seal is pressed in and visible once gearbox is separated. If the gearbox design requires removing the input shaft or bearings, follow the gearbox disassembly sequence from the manual. You may not need to remove internal shafts just to replace the pressed seal.

4) Remove old seal
- If a retaining circlip is present, remove it first with snap ring pliers.
- Use a seal puller/hook to remove the seal from the bore. For stubborn seals, small holes can be drilled and then use a screw or slide hammer puller, but that risks damaging the bore — use caution.

5) Inspect shaft & bore
- Inspect input shaft for scores, pits or sharp edges. Lightly polish minor imperfections with fine abrasive; deeper damage requires shaft replacement.
- Check bearing faces for wear. If bearings are loose or rough, service them while transmission is out.

6) Install new seal
- Lubricate the inner lip of the new seal lightly with gear oil. Align seal square to bore. Use a seal driver or appropriately sized socket that presses on the outer metal of the seal only. Tap evenly with a soft mallet until the seal is seated to the specified depth. If the seal has an orientation (text or lip faces out to hold oil), ensure correct side faces the gearbox.
- Replace any circlips or retainers.

7) Reinstallation of gearbox
- Clean mating surfaces (engine bellhousing and gearbox). Replace any paper gaskets if present. Use alignment tool or carefully guide the gearbox onto the clutch/input shaft to avoid damaging the seal lip. A clutch alignment tool helps center the clutch disc to allow the gearbox to slide in smoothly.
- Raise gearbox into position with trans jack and guide into place. Loosely start bellhousing bolts by hand to confirm fitment then torque to factory spec in a star pattern. Refit crossmember, mount, starter, linkages, hydraulic lines and electrical connectors. Refit propshafts/driveshafts and torque flange bolts.

8) Refill, check, test
- Refill gearbox to specified level/type. Reconnect battery. Run engine, check for leaks, operate clutch and shift through gears. Road test and recheck oil level and leak points.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Damaging the bore when pulling old seal: use a proper seal puller and protect the bore with a shim or equivalent. Do not gouge the mating surface.
- Driving seal in crooked or too deep/shallow: use appropriate sized seal driver and tap evenly. Check seating depth against manual.
- Striking the rubber lip or inner spring with hammer: always drive on the outer metal case.
- Reusing a damaged seal, bolts, crush washers: replace consumables. New drain/fill washers and the correct new seal only.
- Not lubricating seal lip: always coat inner lip lightly with gear oil before assembly.
- Not supporting gearbox/engine properly: gearbox can fall and cause injury or part damage. Use a proper trans jack and engine support.
- For input seals: forcing gearbox onto a misaligned clutch can tear the new seal or ruin spline shaft — use an alignment tool and ensure clutch pilot bearing is in good condition.
- Contaminating gearbox oil with dirt or solvent: keep everything clean and dry.
- Not replacing bearings when worn: a leaking seal plus rough bearing indicates bearings should be replaced while box is out — cheaper to do now than rework later.
- Incorrect torque: always use factory torque values, especially for bellhousing and prop flange bolts.

Final checks
- After 50–100 km test drive, recheck gearbox oil level and for leaks. Re‑torque critical fasteners after initial test drive if specified by manual.
- Monitor for any unusual noise or vibration — could indicate seal seating issues or internal damage.

If you want a checklist version or specific bolt torque and OEM part numbers for your exact year/model and gearbox code, use the VIN or gearbox code to reference the factory repair manual.
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How to remove a Holden Colorado / Rodeo radio This will show you how to remove a radio from a Holden Rodeo and Colorado. I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor ...

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