Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Safety first (short): work on level ground, use rated jackstands, wear eye/protective gloves. If you are not competent with suspension, hydraulics or wheel alignment, have a professional do the job. After any lift you must recheck fasteners and get a full alignment before driving at speed.

Ordered explanation of installation with theory and how the “repair” fixes common faults (sagging, lack of clearance, tire rub, poor geometry)

1) Select the correct kit and understand what it changes
- Theory: lift kits come as spacers (spring/strut spacers), new coilovers/struts, control arm drop brackets or extended control arms, rear shackles/blocks/leafs and extended brake/ABS lines. Each part changes a different parameter: spacer raises static ride height, new springs change spring rate, control arms change pivot geometry, and extended lines prevent binding.
- How it fixes the fault: spacers restore ride height if springs have sagged; replacement coils or leaf packs correct weak springs by restoring spring rate and correct ride height for load or larger tires.

2) Baseline measurement and prep
- Procedure: measure stock ride height (wheel arch to axle/sill), note steering play, photograph current component positions, deflate tires if instructed, disconnect battery if removing sensors.
- Theory: baseline lets you confirm the lift amount and detect changes; measuring before/after shows how geometry altered.
- Fix rationale: confirms that the perceived fault (sag, uneven height) is actually suspension-related and quantifies required correction.

3) Safely raise vehicle and remove wheels
- Procedure: jacking points, supported on jackstands, remove wheels for access.
- Theory: access to control arms, struts/shocks, sway-bar links and brake/ABS components is required.

4) Front suspension disassembly (typical order)
- Remove sway bar endlinks, disconnect track/steering links as needed, unbolt strut/shock from knuckle and top mount, support lower control arm, remove coil/strut assembly or shock/strut depending on kit.
- Theory: the strut/coil assembly controls spring location and damping; control arms locate the wheel laterally and set camber/caster. Removing these lets you replace spring/strut or install spacers.
- Fix rationale: replacing a worn coil/strut or inserting a spacer raises static height and restores spring preload—reducing sag and giving clearance.

5) Install front lift components and geometry-correcting parts
- If using spacers: fit spacer between strut top and mount or atop coil. If using new struts/coilovers: install new units with correct spring orientation and preload.
- If lift changes pivot points enough to alter camber/caster/CV angles, install control arm drop brackets or extended control arms and/or new ball joints as required.
- Reattach sway bar links (longer ones if supplied). Extend or relocate bump stops to avoid early jounce.
- Theory: spacers raise the strut body relative to the axle—this increases ride height but does not change spring stiffness; coilovers change both height and stiffness/damping. Control arm drops/longer arms reposition the lower pivot so the steering knuckle and CV shafts keep acceptable operating angles and ball joints are not overextended. Bump stop relocation preserves limiting travel so the suspension doesn’t over-compress.
- Fix rationale: restoring correct pivot geometry prevents accelerated wear, bump steer and steering pull that would result from incorrect angles after a lift.

6) Rear suspension changes
- Typical options: add lift blocks under the axle + longer U-bolts, replace or add leafs, or use raised shackles/coil spring spacers.
- Theory: blocks increase static axle-to-frame distance; adding leafs increases spring rate to control sag under load. Pinion angle will change with axle position.
- Fix rationale: blocks/leaves restore rear height and leaf-pack stiffness to fix sagging, prevent axle tramp and stop tire rub.

7) Driveline, brake, ABS and steering line considerations
- Fit longer brake hose/ABS line mounts if provided; check steering draglink/tie rod angles and extend/replace if needed; check drive shaft slip travel and U-joint/CV angles—modify or install a slip yoke eliminator/drive shaft spacer or shorter/longer driveshaft if required.
- Theory: lifting the chassis increases distances and alters angles. Brake/ABS lines must retain slack so wheels can move through full travel; driveshaft angle changes can cause vibration and premature U-joint/CV failure; steering link angle changes cause bump steer.
- Fix rationale: without these corrections you’ll get binding, braking failures, driveline vibrations, or unpredictable steering.

8) Reassemble, torque to spec and set bump/rebound positions
- Reinstall wheels, torque all fasteners to manufacturer or kit-specified values, set ride-height and adjustable components to recommended settings. Replace fasteners that are safety-critical as per kit instructions.
- Theory: correct torque secures joints; incorrect torque leads to loosening, wear or component failure. Adjustable dampers must be set for the new spring rates to maintain control.

9) Static inspection and alignment
- Lower vehicle onto level ground; check clearance throughout suspension travel, verify bump stop engagement and brake line slack; inspect for contact between tires and body/arches.
- Immediately get a professional toe/caster/camber alignment and thrust angle check. Recheck wheel bearing preload and U-bolt torque after first 100–200 km.
- Theory: lift changes static and dynamic geometry; alignment restores intended steering returnability, tire wear and handling.

10) Road test and iterative tuning
- Drive slowly, check for noises, vibration or pull; re-torque fasteners after initial settling. If ride is harsh or unstable, adjust shock damping or spring rate. Monitor tires and components for early wear.
- Theory: dynamic forces reveal issues not obvious statically; damping and spring rate tuning is required to balance comfort, control and load carrying.

How each common “fault” is fixed by these actions
- Fault: sagging/reduced ride height — Fix: replacing weak springs or adding spacers restores preload and static height; new springs restore rated spring constant so ride height under load returns to spec.
- Fault: tire rubbing/insufficient ground clearance — Fix: raising axle and chassis with spacers/blocks provides clearance; correcting wheel travel limits (bump stops) prevents rubbing under compression.
- Fault: poor handling after lift — Cause: geometry changes (caster/camber/toe, bump steer, altered roll center). Fix: add control arm corrections, adjust tie rod lengths, correct drop brackets and get an alignment. Dampers sized for the new ride height/spring rate reduce oscillation.
- Fault: driveline vibration or premature U-joint wear — Cause: changed pinion/driveshaft angles or increased slip travel demand. Fix: re-index/modify driveshaft, adjust pinion angle with shims/control arm modifications or fit a longer/shorter driveshaft as required.
- Fault: brake/ABS line stress or steering bind — Cause: insufficient hose length or wrong routing. Fix: use extended lines or relocate brackets supplied in the kit.

Concise reminders
- Always follow the kit manufacturer’s instructions and vehicle-specific torque specs.
- After any lift: alignment is mandatory; re-torque fasteners after initial use; inspect driveline and brake components carefully.
- Legal and safety: larger tires/height changes can affect vehicle center of gravity, braking distances and legal compliance—ensure local regulations are followed.

No further questions.
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