Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Role: experienced automotive technician. Procedure: Transmission pan gasket replacement on an Isuzu D‑Max.

Summary of job: remove transmission pan, replace filter and pan gasket (or sealant), clean magnet, reinstall pan, refill and level fluid, check for leaks and proper operation.

Required tools and supplies
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (rated for vehicle weight); wheel chocks.
- Basic hand tools: 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, extensions, swivel/universal joint.
- Socket set (metric sockets commonly 8 mm–15 mm depending on bolt sizes).
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range) — essential for correct bolt torque.
- Drain pan (large capacity).
- Gasket scraper or plastic putty knife (avoid scratching mating surfaces).
- Clean rags and lint‑free cloths.
- Parts cleaner / brake cleaner.
- New transmission pan gasket (specific to your Isuzu D‑Max year/model) or manufacturer's recommended RTV/sealant if pan uses sealant.
- Transmission filter kit (filter + seals/O‑rings). Always replace filter when doing pan gasket service.
- New drain plug crush washer (if transmission uses one) and any pan bolts specified as torque‑to‑yield (replace if required).
- Correct spec automatic transmission fluid (ATF) — use manufacturer‑specified type (many D‑Max models use Dexron family; check vehicle manual for exact spec and capacity).
- Funnel with hose or dedicated transmission fluid pump.
- Magnetic pickup tool (optional) and small stiff brush for magnet cleaning.
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves.
- Container for old fluid; absorbent pads; means to dispose of fluid legally.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels, put car in park (or 1st gear for manual) and engage parking brake.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use quality jack stands or ramps.
- Let transmission cool if recently driven — ATF and pan can be hot.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Transmission fluid is slippery; clean spills promptly.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be working under electrical components or expecting to shift gears; not strictly required for basic pan removal but is good practice.
- Dispose of used ATF at an appropriate recycling center.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, lift vehicle and support securely on jack stands or drive onto ramps. Ensure safe access under the vehicle.
- Remove any splash shields or skid plates blocking access to the transmission pan.
- Place drain pan under transmission pan.

2) Drain remaining fluid (if pan has drain plug)
- If equipped with drain plug: remove plug (use appropriate socket) and allow fluid to drain into catch pan. Replace crush washer on reassembly. If no drain plug, you’ll remove the pan and tip to drain.
- If fluid is hot, allow to cool to avoid burns.

3) Loosen pan bolts
- Loosen but do not remove all pan bolts. Leave two opposite bolts threaded a few turns (usually at highest points) to hold pan while you break the seal—this prevents sudden dump of fluid.
- If there is a separate gasket retainer or filter bracket, locate and prepare to remove per kit instructions.

4) Remove pan
- Unthread remaining bolts gradually, supporting pan with one hand. Remove last bolts and carefully lower the pan. Tip pan to drain residual fluid into catch.
- If pan is sealed with RTV, use the scraper carefully to break the seal — avoid gouging mating surface.
- Note: keep pan level to avoid spilling everywhere.

5) Remove old gasket and filter
- Remove old pan gasket — scrape off all remnants from pan and transmission case mating surfaces. Use plastic scraper to avoid scratching surfaces. Clean with parts cleaner and a lint‑free cloth.
- Remove transmission filter (usually plastic or metal). Filter is retained with bolts/clips — remove and allow fluid to drain. Some filters have a rubber O‑ring on the case throat; keep that area clean.

6) Inspect pan and transmission internals
- Clean pan thoroughly. Remove metallic debris from magnet(s) — use rag and brush; use magnetic pickup for large chunks. Small metal filings are normal; large pieces indicate internal damage.
- Inspect magnet for heavy scoring or unusual debris (clutches, bands). Note condition and advise further diagnosis if large pieces are present.
- Inspect pan gasket surface for nicks, warps, or dents. If pan is bent, replace.

7) Install new filter and gasket
- Install new transmission filter and O‑rings/seals provided in kit. Lightly lubricate O‑rings with clean ATF before installation to ensure proper seating.
- Position new gasket on pan or apply correct bead of RTV if required by manufacturer. If using a paper/fiber gasket, ensure it’s oriented correctly and seated. If using RTV‑type sealant, apply continuous bead as manufacturer instructs (typically 2–3 mm uniform bead around mating surface; avoid excess that can squeeze into fluid passages).

8) Reinstall pan
- Hold pan up and start bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Use a crisscross/star pattern to snug all bolts.
- Torque bolts to manufacturer spec. Typical pan bolt torque for many transmissions is 8–12 Nm (70–105 in‑lb). Do NOT overtighten — overtorque causes gasket squeeze‑out, warping and leaks.
- If the transmission has a separate drain plug, replace with new crush washer and torque per spec (common 20–40 Nm range; check manual).
- Replace any removed splash shields.

9) Refill with transmission fluid
- Lower vehicle to level surface.
- Using a funnel with hose or fluid pump, add correct ATF through dipstick tube (if equipped) or fill plug. Add approximately the amount that was drained from pan plus the filter capacity. Typical pan/filter change will remove ~2–4 liters, but total varies by model — add slowly.
- Do not overfill.

10) Start engine and cycle gears
- Start engine with parking brake on. Cycle through all gears (P→R→N→D→etc.), pausing in each gear for a few seconds to circulate fluid and seat filter.
- With engine at normal operating temperature (follow manual guidance — some require checking at idle temperature and certain range), check fluid level via dipstick; top up to correct level. Check level with engine idling and transmission in Park as specified by the workshop manual.
- Wipe dipstick before checking, read correctly.

11) Verify and test drive
- Inspect pan for leaks at bolt flange and drain plug with engine running.
- Test drive car, shift through gears under light load, then re‑check fluid level and for leaks after reaching operating temperature.
- After a short drive, re‑torque pan bolts to spec if recommended by manufacturer (some shops recheck torque).

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Over‑torquing pan bolts: Causes warped pan and leaks. Use torque wrench and specified torque. Tighten in crisscross pattern.
- Reusing the old filter or gasket: Always replace filter and gasket/O‑rings whenever the pan is removed.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: Leftover gasket/RTV causes improper seal. Thoroughly scrape and clean both surfaces.
- Getting sealant into fluid passages: Excess RTV squeezed into pan can block fluid passages. Use correct amount and let RTV skin per instructions if required.
- Cross‑threading bolts: Start bolts by hand and use correct sockets. Replace damaged bolts.
- Wrong fluid type or incorrect level: Use manufacturer‑specified ATF and check level at operating temperature/engine speed per manual.
- Pan damage: Dropping pan or hitting gasket surface during removal can cause warpage — handle carefully.
- Not inspecting magnet debris: Significant chunks mean internal damage; don’t ignore.
- Unsafe lifting: Never work under vehicle supported only by a jack.

Replacement parts required (recommended)
- Transmission pan gasket (vehicle‑specific part).
- Transmission filter kit (filter + O‑rings/seals).
- Drain plug crush washer (if equipped).
- Transmission fluid (manufacturer specified ATF, quantity depends on vehicle — expect 2–6 L for pan/filter change).
- Optional: new pan bolts if specified as one‑time use or showing damage.

Notes on tool use
- Torque wrench: set to correct torque, use 1/4" drive for small bolts and 3/8" for larger; ensure wrench is calibrated. Tighten bolts to torque in several passes (snug, then final torque).
- Gasket scraper: use plastic or nylon to avoid marring surfaces; where metal is required, use light pressure and finish with solvent and scotch‑brite if necessary.
- Funnel with hose: insert hose into dipstick tube to lower splashing and ensure controlled fill.
- Magnetic pickup: run it over pan magnet and transmission pan interior to collect metal fragments.

Final checks and disposal
- Confirm no leaks after test drive.
- Dispose of used ATF through a recycling program.
- Record fluid type and change date for service history.

End of procedure.
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