Goal: replace piston rings on a Toyota 22R / 22R‑E and understand why it fixes the symptoms. Below is a concise, ordered procedure with the relevant theory at each stage. Follow factory manual specs (torques, clearances, ring end‑gap) for exact numbers.

1) Diagnose and confirm the fault (theory)
- Symptoms: low compression, poor cold/hot starting, loss of power, white/blue smoke, excessive oil consumption, fouled plugs, crankcase pressure/blow‑by.
- Tests: compression test and leak‑down test. Low compression with large leak‑down into crankcase = worn rings. These tests locate ring sealing loss vs valves/head gasket.

2) Prepare, plan, parts and tools
- Parts: new piston ring set for the 22R pistons (and pistons if necessary), new piston pin clips if used, connecting‑rod bearings if disturbed, head gasket set, oil pan gasket, seals.
- Tools: torque wrench, micrometer/bore gauge, feeler gauges, ring compressor, piston ring pliers, hone, clean rags, solvent, shop manual.
- Safety/cleanliness: work in a clean area; contamination causes rapid wear.

3) Remove peripherals and gain access (theory: must remove head and oil pan to remove pistons and inspect bores)
- Drain oil and coolant.
- Remove intake/exhaust manifolds, distributor (22R‑E has fuel/ignition differences), valve cover, rocker assembly, timing cover and timing components as needed to remove head.
- Remove cylinder head to access pistons from above. Remove oil pan to access bottom end and rod caps.

4) Inspect bottom end and remove pistons (theory: inspect bearing and rod condition; pistons removed allow ring replacement and bore measurement)
- Mark connecting rods/pistons for orientation and location (cylinder number).
- Remove rod caps, keep caps matched and oriented.
- Push pistons out of bore toward top (or remove via top if head removed) and remove pistons with rings. If you must push pistons out, do it gently to avoid scuffing.

5) Measure and assess cylinders and pistons (theory: rings seal between piston and cylinder — if bore worn/tapered, new rings won't seal)
- Clean carbon from pistons and ring grooves; inspect piston skirts for scuffing, measure piston diameter.
- Measure cylinder bore diameter at several depths (top, middle, bottom) and in two axes for taper/out‑of‑round. Compare to specs.
- Decide: if within limits and not heavily scored, you can hone and install new rings. If out of spec or heavily scored, you need re‑bore and oversized pistons or sleeve repair.

6) Cylinder prep: deglaze/hone (theory: new rings need a cross‑hatch surface to seat; glazed cylinder prevents initial sealing)
- If bores are reusable, do a light plateau hone to remove the glaze and create a cross‑hatch. Use appropriate grit hone; remove minimal material — do not change bore size appreciably.
- Clean thoroughly: wash, blow out oil passages, remove hone grit and debris.

7) Check ring end gaps and select/install rings on pistons (theory: ring gap controls thermal expansion and pressure sealing; oil ring assembly controls oil scraping)
- Insert each ring into its cylinder (one at a time) and square it in the bore about 25–30 mm down to measure end gap with feeler gauge. File ring ends if required to achieve spec gap.
- Typical small‑six cylinder top‑ring gaps fall into the 0.3–0.5 mm range but use the service manual value.
- Assemble rings onto pistons in the correct order and orientation (top ring, second ring, oil ring expander and rails). Many rings have marks that face up. Oil ring has expander plus two rails—install correctly.
- Stagger ring end gaps around the piston (e.g., 120° apart) and do not align gaps.

8) Clean and inspect rod bearings and crank journals (theory: rod/crank condition affects piston motion and seals)
- Inspect crank journals for scoring and bearing condition. If bearings are worn, replace and measure crush/clearance per manual.
- Install new rod bearings and lubricate.

9) Reinstall pistons and rods (theory: correct orientation and clearances ensure sealing and prevent damage)
- Lubricate rings, skirts, and bores with engine oil.
- Compress rings with a ring compressor and carefully insert piston into bore from top (crown up) keeping rod aligned.
- Reinstall rod caps in their original orientation, torque to spec in correct sequence.
- Confirm free rotation of crank after each piston.

10) Reassemble engine (head, timing, manifolds) and set clearances (theory: restore valvetrain and timing to ensure combustion and avoid interference)
- Reinstall head with new gasket and torque bolts in the factory sequence to spec. Reinstall timing components and set timing/valve lash per manual (22R is OHV with adjustable rockers; 22R‑E has EFI but same bottom-end/valve hardware).
- Reinstall oil pump, oil pan with new gasket, manifolds, distributor/fuel system, and all connections.
- Replace oil filter and fill with correct grade oil.

11) Initial start and break‑in (theory: new rings must bed into the bore surface to form a true seal)
- On first start, run engine at moderate warm idle; check for leaks.
- Change oil and filter after the first 20–50 miles (or as manual recommends) to remove break‑in debris.
- Perform ring seating break‑in: moderate engine load and varied RPM for first 300–500 miles — avoid lugging or heavy towing, avoid constant high RPM. This promotes metal contact and proper ring seating.

12) Verify repair
- After break‑in and oil change, perform compression and/or leak‑down test. Compression should return to near‑spec and blow‑by should be reduced. Oil consumption and smoke should be markedly improved.

How replacing rings fixes the fault (theory summary)
- A piston ring set performs three seals: top rings seal combustion pressure (preventing power loss and blow‑by), second ring assists sealing and controls oil migration, oil ring scrapes excess oil from the cylinder wall and returns it to the sump.
- Worn rings or glazed bores allow combustion gases to leak past the piston (blow‑by) and permit oil to reach the combustion chamber, causing low compression, reduced power, smoke, and high oil consumption.
- Replacing the rings and restoring the bore surface re‑establishes the mechanical seal between piston and cylinder, restoring compression, reducing blow‑by and oil burning, and returning normal crankcase pressure.

Concise warnings
- Do not reuse old rings. Measure and use correct end‑gaps. If bores or pistons are out of spec, ring replacement alone will not fix the issue—reboring or pistons required.
- Follow the factory manual for torque, clearances, and ring gap specs. Cleanliness and correct break‑in are critical to longevity.
rteeqp73

Toyota 22RE Engine Replacement (Part 1) In Part 1 of this 3 part video series we show you how to remove your Toyota 22RE Engine from your 4runner or Pickup.

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

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- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic gloves to protect eyes and skin from fluid.
- Work on a level surface, engine off, parking brake set, and place wheel chocks on opposite wheels.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands or vehicle ramps. If using ramps, set parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clean up spilled fluid promptly to avoid slips.

- What this job does and why it matters
- The transmission filter removes metal particles and debris from the automatic transmission fluid to protect clutches and valves.
- Replacing the filter and pan gasket reduces wear, prevents hydraulic blockages, and helps avoid transmission damage.
- You will also inspect the pan magnet and fluid for unusual metal debris that could indicate internal wear.

- Parts you will likely need and why
- Transmission filter (specific to your transmission model) — required: the old filter traps debris and becomes clogged; a new filter restores proper fluid flow.
- Pan gasket or pan gasket sealant (RTV) — required: prevents fluid leaks after reinstalling the pan.
- Transmission fluid (correct type for Toyota 22R-era transmission) — required: fluid lost during pan removal must be replaced; use the manufacturer-specified type (many Toyotas use Type T-IV or Dexron; check your manual or cap labeling).
- Replacement pan bolts or crush washers (optional) — recommended if bolts are corroded or bolts use crush washers that are single-use.
- Small quantity of clean rags/paper towels and a drain pan — required for cleanup and catching old fluid.
- Disposal container and plan — required: used ATF must be disposed of or recycled per local regulations.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Floor jack (details: low-profile hydraulic jack) — use to lift the vehicle at manufacturer jacking points. Operate by pumping handle to raise, and slowly release the handle to lower. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Jack stands (details: adjustable, rated for vehicle weight) — place under solid frame points after jacking; lower the vehicle onto stands. Use stands on a stable surface and set to a matching height on both sides.
- Wheel chocks (details: rubber or plastic blocks) — wedge behind opposite wheels to prevent rolling.
- Ramps (optional alternative to jack stands) — drive vehicle up slowly and use parking brake; ramps are stable but require more driveway space.
- Socket set and ratchet (details: 3/8" drive set with common sizes, extensions and swivel) — used to remove pan bolts and filter bolts. Select the correct socket for the bolts, pull straight to avoid rounding heads, and use extensions where needed.
- Torque wrench (details: click-type or beam-type, appropriate range e.g., 5–100 ft·lb) — used to tighten pan and filter bolts to manufacturer torque to prevent leaks and strip. Set to spec and tighten until wrench clicks; if you don’t have exact spec, tighten gently and evenly as described below, but using a torque wrench is strongly recommended.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — used to pry gently on old gasket material; use plastic or thin metal to avoid gouging pan flange.
- Drain pan (details: shallow, large capacity) — place under transmission to catch ATF when pan is loosened.
- Funnel with flexible hose (details: narrow funnel or hose to avoid spills when refilling) — used to pour transmission fluid into the dipstick tube or fill port.
- Clean rags and brake-clean or ATF-safe parts cleaner (details: lint-free rags, spray cleaner for pan and magnet) — clean the pan, magnet, and gasket surfaces.
- Gasket scraper or plastic putty knife (details: thin blade) — remove old gasket without damaging mating surfaces.
- Disposable gloves and shop towels — protect your hands and keep things tidy.
- Flashlight/inspection light — see inside pan and check valve body area.
- Small pick or flat tool (details: to remove O-rings if present) — be careful not to damage surfaces.

- Extra tools that can make the job safer/easier and why
- Service manual or a reliable repair guide specific to your vehicle and transmission — required for correct torque specs, fluid type, fluid capacity, and model-specific steps.
- Transmission jack (only if you remove the transmission) — not necessary for a simple filter/pan job; required if transmission removal is needed.
- Impact driver (optional) — speeds bolt removal but can round bolts if used incorrectly; use with care.

- Step-by-step procedure (follow each bullet in order)
- Prepare: gather parts, tools, and protective gear; park on level ground and chock wheels.
- Lift and support: raise the vehicle at the recommended jacking point, place jack stands under frame rails, and lower onto stands; verify vehicle is stable before crawling underneath.
- Position drain pan: slide the drain pan under the transmission pan to catch fluid.
- Break pan bolts loose: with the socket and ratchet, loosen the pan bolts around the perimeter. Do not remove all bolts at once—leave two bolts at one end partially threaded to act as hinges initially.
- Drain fluid cautiously: loosen the remaining bolts gradually on the opposite side to allow the pan to tip and drain slowly into the drain pan. Watch fluid temperature—warm fluid drains easier but can burn.
- Remove pan and inspect: once drained, remove the remaining bolts and lower the pan carefully. Inspect the pan and magnet(s) — wipe metal shavings off the magnet; a small amount is normal, lots of chunks or plate-like pieces is a concern.
- Remove old filter: locate the transmission filter (usually secured with 2–3 bolts or held by grommets). Using the appropriate socket or screwdriver, remove filter fasteners and pull the filter straight down. Be prepared for residual fluid to spill.
- Inspect mounting area: look at the valve body and gasket surface for damage, excessive debris, or loose parts. Clean the surface with lint-free rags and parts cleaner.
- Install new filter: fit the new filter into place, align bolt holes or grommets, and tighten bolts to the specified torque. Hand-start bolts to avoid cross-threading, then torque to spec.
- Clean pan and magnet: remove old gasket material from the pan flange and the transmission mating surface carefully. Clean the pan and magnet with parts cleaner and a rag. Replace the pan gasket or apply sealant per part instructions.
- Reinstall pan: position the pan with new gasket and hand-thread pan bolts. Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern (star pattern) progressively to seat the gasket evenly. Final tighten to factory torque spec using the torque wrench. If you do not have specs, snug bolts evenly—do not overtighten.
- Refill fluid: lower the vehicle off stands or keep it level per the manual’s instructions for checking fluid. Add transmission fluid via dipstick tube or fill port using a funnel. Add a partial amount first (common pan-drop fill after pan removal often ~3–4 quarts, but check your manual). Start the engine with the parking brake set and shift through gears slowly to circulate fluid, then add fluid to reach the proper level per dipstick when at correct engine temperature and selector position as specified in the manual.
- Check for leaks: with the engine running and at operating temperature, inspect pan area for leaks. Re-torque bolts after a short test drive if the manual recommends it.
- Clean up and dispose of old fluid: pour used ATF into a sealed container and take to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil/ATF.

- How to use key tools safely and effectively (brief how-to)
- Jack and jack stands: position jack under manufacturer jacking point, lift slowly, place stands under strong frame points, lower the car onto stands. Give the car a shove to confirm stable before going under.
- Socket and ratchet: match socket size to bolt, push onto bolt squarely, use steady pressure to avoid rounding. Use extension or swivel as needed to reach tight spots.
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, snug bolt, then use the wrench until it clicks (click-type). For beam-type, align scale and read. Store the torque wrench at lowest setting.
- Funnel and fluid fill: use a funnel that fits dipstick tube; pour slowly and check level to avoid overfilling.

- Common pitfalls and what to watch for
- Not supporting the vehicle safely — never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Over-tightening pan bolts — can warp pan flange or strip threads causing leaks.
- Using the wrong fluid type — can damage transmission; always confirm correct ATF type.
- Not checking fluid level correctly — transmission fluid level is usually checked hot with engine running in a specified gear; follow the manual.
- Large metal chunks on the pan magnet — sign of internal damage; if present, do not proceed with a simple filter change without professional diagnosis.

- When you should get professional help or replacement beyond a filter
- If you find large metal pieces (chunks, plates, or broken parts) on the pan magnet or in the pan fluid — this likely indicates internal transmission damage requiring inspection/repair by a transmission shop.
- If the pan bolts or mating surfaces are damaged or threads are stripped — a professional can repair/replace the case or install helicoils.
- If the transmission leaks persist after gasket replacement and proper torquing — sealing surfaces may be damaged.

- Final notes
- Always consult a vehicle-specific service manual for your transmission model for exact filter part numbers, torque specs, and fluid type/quantities.
- Replacing the filter and gasket is routine maintenance that can be done by a beginner with basic tools if you follow safety precautions and use a torque wrench and correct parts. If anything looks abnormal, stop and have the transmission inspected professionally.
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