Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (6–19 mm), extensions, universal joint
- Torque wrench (range covering light torque to ~100 Nm)
- Ratchet, breaker bar
- Drain pan (large)
- Oil filter wrench
- Hydraulic floor jack + axle stands or ramps
- Jack pad/block (to support oil pan or engine)
- Screwdrivers, pry bar, soft-faced hammer
- Plastic gasket scraper / razor blade (careful)
- Wire brush, brake cleaner or solvent, lint-free rags
- Gasket sealant (manufacturer-approved RTV) — only if required by service manual
- New oil pan gasket (OEM or equivalent) or gasket maker if pan uses RTV
- New oil filter, new engine oil (spec & quantity per manual)
- New drain‑plug crush washer or gasket
- Gloves, eye protection, wheel chocks
- Optional: engine support bar or second jack if crossmember/engine mount removal required

Safety first (read before starting)
- Work on a flat level surface, engine cold. Chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be removing electrical connectors or working under the vehicle.
- Use a quality hydraulic jack and rated jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- If you must remove crossmembers or engine mounts, support the engine with an engine support bar or a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood under the oil pan flange (protect pan).
- Keep solvents away from open flames. Dispose of used oil/filter per local regulations.

Parts required (minimum)
- Oil pan gasket (specific to model/year/engine)
- Drain plug crush washer
- Engine oil (correct grade and quantity)
- Oil filter
- RTV gasket maker only if the service manual specifies (use high-temp silicone)

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Preparation
- Gather parts and tools. Review the factory service manual for your D-Max year/engine for bolt torque specs, removal sequence, and any special steps (some engines require crossmember or engine mount removal).
- Warm engine briefly (not hot) to make oil flow easier, then fully cool down to avoid burns.

2) Raise vehicle & safety setup
- Chock rear wheels. Lift front with jack, support on jack stands at the recommended lift points. Ensure stable support.
- Place drain pan under oil drain plug.

3) Drain oil & remove filter
- Remove drain plug; drain oil completely. Remove oil filter to speed drainage and replace later. Inspect drain plug and replace crush washer.

4) Remove obstructions
- Remove belly pan/guard, heat shields, crossmember, or steering links that block oil pan access. Keep track of bolts and their locations. If removing any mounts that support the engine, use an engine support bar or a jack under the engine (through a block) to take load.

5) Support engine (if necessary)
- If crossmember/engine mount removal is required to drop the pan, support the engine as directed by the manual. Never let the engine hang from hoses.

6) Loosen oil pan bolts & separate pan
- Loosen oil pan bolts in sequence, leaving a few bolts in place until the end to control the pan drop. Use a socket and breaker bar if needed.
- Once most bolts are removed, move the remaining bolts and carefully lower the pan. If it’s stuck, tap the pan gently with a soft-faced hammer or pry gently with a plastic scraper — avoid gouging mating surfaces. Be ready for residual oil to spill into the drain pan.

7) Inspect & clean
- Inspect pan for damage, warpage, or cracks. Clean the pan interior and magnet (if present) and check for metal debris.
- Inspect oil pickup/screen for blockage. If damaged, replace pickup or pan.
- Scrape old gasket material and sealant from both pan and block mating surfaces with a plastic scraper or razor (use care). Finish cleaning with brake cleaner and lint-free rag until perfectly clean and dry.

8) Prepare new gasket / sealant
- If pan uses a molded rubber gasket: fit the gasket to the pan, ensuring correct orientation and that bolt holes align.
- If service manual calls for RTV or a specific sealant: apply a continuous, even bead of specified width (manufacturer instructions; typically a thin bead around the pan mating surface and around bolt holes as directed). Don’t over-apply — excess can enter oil passages.
- If both gasket and small amount of RTV are used, follow manual instructions (some joints require a tiny dab at corners only).

9) Refit oil pan
- Align the pan carefully and start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten in a criss-cross or spiral pattern progressively to draw the pan down evenly.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten bolts to manufacturer torque specification and in the sequence specified by the service manual.

10) Reinstall drain plug & filter
- Install drain plug with new crush washer; torque to spec. Install new oil filter (lubricate filter O-ring with a little oil, hand-tighten per filter instructions).

11) Reinstall removed components
- Refit crossmember, skid plate, heat shields, and any other removed parts. If you supported the engine, carefully remove the support after mounts are reinstalled and torqued.

12) Fill oil & check
- Lower vehicle. Fill with specified engine oil quantity and grade. Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine and let idle. Check for leaks around the pan seams and drain plug. After warm-up, recheck oil level and top off as needed.

13) Final checks
- After 24–100 km and a few engine heat cycles, re-inspect for leaks and re-torque bolts if the manual requires re-torqueing after initial run-in.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not using correct gasket/RTV: Always use the gasket style specified by the manual. Using wrong sealant can cause leaks.
- Over- or under-tightening bolts: Follow torque specs and tighten in sequence. Over-torque can strip threads or deform the pan flange.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces thoroughly: Any old gasket residue will prevent proper sealing.
- Prying with metal tools or gouging surfaces: Use plastic scrapers to avoid creating uneven surfaces.
- Forgetting to replace drain plug crush washer or oil filter: Always replace both.
- Letting debris fall into engine: Plug openings or cover openings temporarily; work clean.
- Not supporting engine when required: Removing crossmembers without proper engine support can cause misalignment and damage.
- Applying excessive RTV that squeezes into the oil: Use small, even beads per instructions.

Notes on tool use
- Torque wrench: Use calibrated wrench; make final torque in stages (e.g., snug all bolts, then torque to spec in pattern). Never use extension or cheater bar with torque wrench.
- Jack & stands: Place stands under manufacturer jack points. When supporting engine, use a wide block to distribute load and prevent damage.
- Gasket scraper/razor: Keep blade angle shallow to avoid gouging the metal. Follow up with solvent and rag.

Disposal and cleanup
- Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center. Clean and store tools. Inspect work area for leaks.

End — perform a road test and final visual check to confirm no leaks.
rteeqp73

All-New Isuzu D-Max: How To Use the Multi Information Display

2012 - 2019 Isuzu Dmax Major Service pt. 2 Inspection Part 2 of the Major Service on the Dmax checking over all the suspension, chassis, drivetrain, cabin, brakes and engine bay to ...

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