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Toyota 22R and 22R-E engine factory workshop and repair manual
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Toyota 22R and 22R-E engine factory workshop and repair manualon PDF can be viewed using PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . File size 18 Mb Searchable PDF document with bookmarks. Covers Maintenance Toyota 22R and 22R-E engine factory workshop and repair manual |
Tools & supplies
- Hand tools: 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets, breaker bar, extension bars, universal joint (swivel), deep sockets (metric), combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb range).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.).
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional but useful.
- Penetrating/heat source: propane torch (for stubborn studs) — use with caution.
- Socket for manifold nuts (usually 12 or 14 mm depending on application), deep sockets recommended for studs.
- Gasket scraper, wire brush, shop rag, brake cleaner.
- New exhaust manifold gasket (head to manifold) and downpipe/exhaust flange gasket. Replace studs/nuts/bolts if heavily corroded; keep spare nuts.
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp) or copper-based anti-seize.
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks (if you need undercar access).
- Safety: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection.
- Optional: stud extractor, vice-grips (locking pliers), small hammer, heat shield cleaner.
Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Exhaust components retain heat for a long time.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if working near electrical connectors or sensors.
- Chock wheels and securely support the vehicle on jack stands if raising it. Never use only a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use a respirator if grinding or working with chemicals.
- Use penetrating oil conservatively in confined areas; avoid open flame near fluids. If heating bolts, protect rubber hoses, wiring, and sensors from heat.
- Be prepared for snapped studs; breakage can require drilling/extraction or machine work.
Overview & common pitfalls
- Common failures: rusted/broken manifold-to-head studs, warped/cracked manifold, failed manifold gaskets causing exhaust leaks, stripped studs in cylinder head.
- Pitfalls: Removing nuts too fast without supporting exhaust pipe (pipe drops and stresses studs), snapping studs by using excessive force or wrong tool angle, not replacing gaskets, not cleaning mating surfaces, overtightening or improper torque sequence.
- Preventive: soak fasteners with penetrating oil for several hours or overnight; use a long-handled breaker bar and small incremental movement to avoid sudden snaps; support exhaust pipe before unbolting flange.
Step‑by‑step procedure (remove & replace)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock wheels. Allow engine to fully cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove air cleaner assembly and any components blocking access to the exhaust manifold (engine covers, heat shields, intake snorkel, EGR hardware if present).
- If needed, raise front of vehicle and secure with jack stands for easier access to the lower exhaust flange.
2. Access & prep fasteners
- Spray all manifold-to-head nuts, downpipe/flange bolts, heat-shield screws with penetrating oil. Let soak 30–60 minutes (longer for seized studs).
- Remove oxygen sensor (if located in manifold) — use O2 sensor socket or 22 mm open deep socket. Protect sensor wiring.
3. Support the exhaust
- Place a transmission jack, floor jack with a block of wood, or a chain support under the exhaust pipe just behind the manifold to take weight off the flange before disconnecting.
- Unbolt the flange (manifold-to-downpipe). If flange bolts/studs are heavily corroded, remove them carefully with impact wrench or breaker bar. Keep the pipe supported so it does not drop.
4. Remove heat shield(s)
- Remove any heat shields bolted to the manifold. They’re usually small bolts; use penetrating oil if needed.
5. Remove manifold nuts from head
- Start loosening manifold-to-head nuts in a sequence: work from the outermost nuts inward, or loosen a little at each nut in a crisscross pattern to relieve stress evenly. Do not yank on the ratchet — use steady force and back-and-forth rocking if nuts are stuck.
- If a stud or nut refuses to budge: apply more penetrating oil, try an impact wrench (short bursts), or heat the area (torch) while protecting surrounding parts.
- If a stud breaks, stop — see notes below on extraction.
6. Remove manifold
- Once all nuts are removed, pull the manifold out. Wiggle to break the gasket seal. Be careful of remaining gasket pieces.
- Inspect manifold for cracks or warpage (visual & tap test). Replace if cracked.
7. Clean mating surfaces
- Clean head surface and manifold flange with a gasket scraper and wire brush. Remove all gasket material and carbon. Use brake cleaner and a rag to finish. Do not gouge or over-sand the head surface.
- Inspect stud threads in the head. Replace studs if badly corroded.
8. Replace parts
- Always install a new exhaust manifold gasket (head-to-manifold). Replace the downpipe/exhaust flange gasket if required.
- Replace any corroded nuts, bolts, studs, or heat shield hardware. Replace manifold if cracked or warped.
- Apply a small amount of high-temp anti-seize to the threads of clean studs/bolts only — avoid getting anti-seize on mating surfaces or bolts’ heads where torque is measured.
9. Install manifold
- Position new gasket on head, then set manifold into place.
- Thread nuts onto studs by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten nuts in incremental stages using the proper sequence (start near the center and work outward in a crisscross fashion). Tighten in three steps: ~1/3 torque, ~2/3 torque, then final torque.
10. Torque specifications & sequence
- Typical torque range for Toyota 22R/22R‑E exhaust manifold nuts: 22–35 ft·lb (30–47 N·m). Typical flange bolts: 30–45 ft·lb (40–60 N·m).
- Recommended practice: check a factory service manual for exact specs for your model/year. If not available, tighten manifold nuts to ~25–30 ft·lb (34–41 N·m) using the center‑out incremental method.
- Use a calibrated torque wrench and tighten in 3 passes to final torque.
11. Reassemble
- Reattach exhaust flange to downpipe and torque flange bolts to spec.
- Reinstall heat shields, O2 sensor (apply small amount of anti-seize to sensor threads if sensor is being reinstalled — avoid contaminating sensor tip), and any removed intake/airbox components.
- Lower car if raised. Reconnect negative battery terminal.
12. Test
- Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks (listen for hissing, feel for leaks around flanges and manifold gasket with a gloved hand — be careful of heat). Re-torque after a short heat/cool cycle if necessary.
- Road-test and re-check for leaks and loose hardware after a few miles.
How the common tools are used (concise)
- Penetrating oil: spray and allow time to soak; repeat if needed. Works by loosening rust bonds.
- Breaker bar: provides slow, controlled torque—use instead of sudden jerks to avoid snapping studs.
- Impact wrench: uses repeated impacts to free stuck nuts; effective but can shear studs if used excessively. Use short bursts and low torque settings.
- Propane torch: heat expands metal, breaking corrosion bonds—heat the nut/stud, then apply wrench immediately; protect nearby wiring/hose.
- Torque wrench: set final torque, tighten in sequence; always use smoothly to prevent overshoot. Calibrate periodically.
Dealing with broken studs
- If a stud snaps flush or below head surface, immediate options:
- Use a stud extractor (easy-out) if enough stud protrudes.
- Weld a nut onto the broken stud and back it out.
- Drill and use an extractor — this risks heat/metal swarf entering combustion chamber area; protect and clean thoroughly.
- In worst cases (stud snapped deep in head), you may need a machine shop to extract or rethread and install a helicoil/insert.
- Prevention: soak, heat, use breaker bar gently, back-off a few degrees and reapply penetrating oil before final removal attempts.
Replacement parts recommended
- Exhaust manifold gasket (head-to-manifold) — required.
- Downpipe/exhaust flange gasket — usually required.
- New manifold-to-head studs/nuts/lock washers if corroded or if threads damaged.
- New manifold if cracked or warped.
- New heat shield hardware if corroded.
- O2 sensor (optional replacement if old/contaminated).
Time & difficulty
- Typical time: 2–4 hours for a competent DIY tech with good access; longer if studs are seized or broken. Difficulty: moderate to high if studs are corroded.
Final tips
- Work patiently. Patience and proper penetrating oil/heating technique prevent most broken studs.
- Always use new gaskets and replace corroded fasteners.
- Confirm torque specs for your model/year with a factory service manual.
rteeqp73
- Hand tools: 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets, breaker bar, extension bars, universal joint (swivel), deep sockets (metric), combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb range).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.).
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional but useful.
- Penetrating/heat source: propane torch (for stubborn studs) — use with caution.
- Socket for manifold nuts (usually 12 or 14 mm depending on application), deep sockets recommended for studs.
- Gasket scraper, wire brush, shop rag, brake cleaner.
- New exhaust manifold gasket (head to manifold) and downpipe/exhaust flange gasket. Replace studs/nuts/bolts if heavily corroded; keep spare nuts.
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp) or copper-based anti-seize.
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks (if you need undercar access).
- Safety: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection.
- Optional: stud extractor, vice-grips (locking pliers), small hammer, heat shield cleaner.
Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Exhaust components retain heat for a long time.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if working near electrical connectors or sensors.
- Chock wheels and securely support the vehicle on jack stands if raising it. Never use only a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use a respirator if grinding or working with chemicals.
- Use penetrating oil conservatively in confined areas; avoid open flame near fluids. If heating bolts, protect rubber hoses, wiring, and sensors from heat.
- Be prepared for snapped studs; breakage can require drilling/extraction or machine work.
Overview & common pitfalls
- Common failures: rusted/broken manifold-to-head studs, warped/cracked manifold, failed manifold gaskets causing exhaust leaks, stripped studs in cylinder head.
- Pitfalls: Removing nuts too fast without supporting exhaust pipe (pipe drops and stresses studs), snapping studs by using excessive force or wrong tool angle, not replacing gaskets, not cleaning mating surfaces, overtightening or improper torque sequence.
- Preventive: soak fasteners with penetrating oil for several hours or overnight; use a long-handled breaker bar and small incremental movement to avoid sudden snaps; support exhaust pipe before unbolting flange.
Step‑by‑step procedure (remove & replace)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock wheels. Allow engine to fully cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove air cleaner assembly and any components blocking access to the exhaust manifold (engine covers, heat shields, intake snorkel, EGR hardware if present).
- If needed, raise front of vehicle and secure with jack stands for easier access to the lower exhaust flange.
2. Access & prep fasteners
- Spray all manifold-to-head nuts, downpipe/flange bolts, heat-shield screws with penetrating oil. Let soak 30–60 minutes (longer for seized studs).
- Remove oxygen sensor (if located in manifold) — use O2 sensor socket or 22 mm open deep socket. Protect sensor wiring.
3. Support the exhaust
- Place a transmission jack, floor jack with a block of wood, or a chain support under the exhaust pipe just behind the manifold to take weight off the flange before disconnecting.
- Unbolt the flange (manifold-to-downpipe). If flange bolts/studs are heavily corroded, remove them carefully with impact wrench or breaker bar. Keep the pipe supported so it does not drop.
4. Remove heat shield(s)
- Remove any heat shields bolted to the manifold. They’re usually small bolts; use penetrating oil if needed.
5. Remove manifold nuts from head
- Start loosening manifold-to-head nuts in a sequence: work from the outermost nuts inward, or loosen a little at each nut in a crisscross pattern to relieve stress evenly. Do not yank on the ratchet — use steady force and back-and-forth rocking if nuts are stuck.
- If a stud or nut refuses to budge: apply more penetrating oil, try an impact wrench (short bursts), or heat the area (torch) while protecting surrounding parts.
- If a stud breaks, stop — see notes below on extraction.
6. Remove manifold
- Once all nuts are removed, pull the manifold out. Wiggle to break the gasket seal. Be careful of remaining gasket pieces.
- Inspect manifold for cracks or warpage (visual & tap test). Replace if cracked.
7. Clean mating surfaces
- Clean head surface and manifold flange with a gasket scraper and wire brush. Remove all gasket material and carbon. Use brake cleaner and a rag to finish. Do not gouge or over-sand the head surface.
- Inspect stud threads in the head. Replace studs if badly corroded.
8. Replace parts
- Always install a new exhaust manifold gasket (head-to-manifold). Replace the downpipe/exhaust flange gasket if required.
- Replace any corroded nuts, bolts, studs, or heat shield hardware. Replace manifold if cracked or warped.
- Apply a small amount of high-temp anti-seize to the threads of clean studs/bolts only — avoid getting anti-seize on mating surfaces or bolts’ heads where torque is measured.
9. Install manifold
- Position new gasket on head, then set manifold into place.
- Thread nuts onto studs by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten nuts in incremental stages using the proper sequence (start near the center and work outward in a crisscross fashion). Tighten in three steps: ~1/3 torque, ~2/3 torque, then final torque.
10. Torque specifications & sequence
- Typical torque range for Toyota 22R/22R‑E exhaust manifold nuts: 22–35 ft·lb (30–47 N·m). Typical flange bolts: 30–45 ft·lb (40–60 N·m).
- Recommended practice: check a factory service manual for exact specs for your model/year. If not available, tighten manifold nuts to ~25–30 ft·lb (34–41 N·m) using the center‑out incremental method.
- Use a calibrated torque wrench and tighten in 3 passes to final torque.
11. Reassemble
- Reattach exhaust flange to downpipe and torque flange bolts to spec.
- Reinstall heat shields, O2 sensor (apply small amount of anti-seize to sensor threads if sensor is being reinstalled — avoid contaminating sensor tip), and any removed intake/airbox components.
- Lower car if raised. Reconnect negative battery terminal.
12. Test
- Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks (listen for hissing, feel for leaks around flanges and manifold gasket with a gloved hand — be careful of heat). Re-torque after a short heat/cool cycle if necessary.
- Road-test and re-check for leaks and loose hardware after a few miles.
How the common tools are used (concise)
- Penetrating oil: spray and allow time to soak; repeat if needed. Works by loosening rust bonds.
- Breaker bar: provides slow, controlled torque—use instead of sudden jerks to avoid snapping studs.
- Impact wrench: uses repeated impacts to free stuck nuts; effective but can shear studs if used excessively. Use short bursts and low torque settings.
- Propane torch: heat expands metal, breaking corrosion bonds—heat the nut/stud, then apply wrench immediately; protect nearby wiring/hose.
- Torque wrench: set final torque, tighten in sequence; always use smoothly to prevent overshoot. Calibrate periodically.
Dealing with broken studs
- If a stud snaps flush or below head surface, immediate options:
- Use a stud extractor (easy-out) if enough stud protrudes.
- Weld a nut onto the broken stud and back it out.
- Drill and use an extractor — this risks heat/metal swarf entering combustion chamber area; protect and clean thoroughly.
- In worst cases (stud snapped deep in head), you may need a machine shop to extract or rethread and install a helicoil/insert.
- Prevention: soak, heat, use breaker bar gently, back-off a few degrees and reapply penetrating oil before final removal attempts.
Replacement parts recommended
- Exhaust manifold gasket (head-to-manifold) — required.
- Downpipe/exhaust flange gasket — usually required.
- New manifold-to-head studs/nuts/lock washers if corroded or if threads damaged.
- New manifold if cracked or warped.
- New heat shield hardware if corroded.
- O2 sensor (optional replacement if old/contaminated).
Time & difficulty
- Typical time: 2–4 hours for a competent DIY tech with good access; longer if studs are seized or broken. Difficulty: moderate to high if studs are corroded.
Final tips
- Work patiently. Patience and proper penetrating oil/heating technique prevent most broken studs.
- Always use new gaskets and replace corroded fasteners.
- Confirm torque specs for your model/year with a factory service manual.
rteeqp73
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