- Safety & prerequisites
- Park on level ground, block rear wheels, set parking brake, and disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts.
- Use quality jack stands; never rely on a jack alone. Big heavy components (transmission, driveshaft, transfer case) can crush you.
- Have a factory service manual or reliable repair manual (Haynes/Chilton or factory PDF) available for torque specs, sequences, and model-specific details.
- If you are uncomfortable with heavy lifting, complex alignment, or press work, get professional help. Transmission work can cause serious injury or vehicle damage if done incorrectly.

- Basic tools (descriptions and how to use)
- 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchet sets (metric & SAE sockets, deep and shallow)
- Use the correct socket size; place on ratchet, pull handle to turn fastener. Extensions let you reach recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric & SAE)
- For bolts where a socket won't fit; place box end over nut, pull/turn with steady force.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 10–150 ft·lb range)
- Required for critical bolts (flywheel, pressure plate, crossmember); set desired torque, tighten until it clicks to avoid over/under torquing.
- Breaker bar
- Long-handled non-ratcheting bar for breaking loose stubborn, high-torque bolts before using a ratchet.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For hose clamps, shifter trim, and prying small parts; use correct size to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint, locking/Vise-Grips)
- For cotter pins, clamps, and holding small parts.
- Pry bar (medium)
- To separate transmission and engine if stuck; use gently and protect housings by prying at designed points.
- Hammer (dead blow and ball peen)
- Dead blow for persuading parts without damage; ball peen for light tapping.
- Punch set (drift punches)
- For removing roll pins or aligning holes.
- Wire brushes and gasket scraper
- Clean mating surfaces before reassembly.
- Drain pan and fluid pump/siphon
- Catch and remove transmission gear oil; pump helps refill or remove old fluid.
- Funnel and gloves
- Pour fluids without spills, keep hands clean and protected.
- Flashlight or adjustable shop light
- Illuminate work area under vehicle.

- Lifting/support tools (detailed)
- Floor jack (2–3 ton)
- Lift vehicle safely; position under jacking points, pump to raise, always use jack stands after lifting.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for your vehicle)
- Place on solid pinch weld/frame points; lower vehicle onto stands—do not rely on jack alone.
- Transmission jack or second floor jack + wood block (recommended)
- Transmissions are heavy and awkward; use a transmission jack to support and raise/lower evenly. If using a floor jack, place a large block of wood to protect the case and have a helper guide it.
- Why required: prevents dropping the transmission, aligns input shaft to clutch during removal/installation.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if vehicle requires engine support)
- Some jobs require supporting engine when transmission crossmember is removed. Use to prevent engine tilt.

- Specialty tools (why they are required and how to use)
- Clutch alignment tool (usually supplied with clutch kit or inexpensive separately)
- Aligns clutch disc to pilot bushing for proper input shaft engagement during installation; insert into splines like a mock input shaft while torquing the pressure plate bolts.
- Pilot bearing puller / slide hammer or small bearing puller
- Removes pilot bearing/bushing from crankshaft if replaced; grips and pulls bearing out. Required because pilot bearings are pressed in.
- Input shaft seal driver or appropriately sized socket
- Drives new input shaft seal flush without damage; use a socket the outer diameter of the seal and tap evenly.
- Snap ring pliers (if transmission disassembly required)
- For removing/ installing snap rings inside transmission.
- Bearing puller and press (if rebuilding internals)
- Presses bearings off/on shafts; required for full rebuilds—unless you send to a shop.
- Shop press (if replacing transmission bearings)
- Needed to press bearings and gears on shafts correctly; not recommended for a beginner without experience.
- Threadlocker (Loctite) and anti-seize
- Prevent bolts from backing out and prevent corrosion; apply per manual.
- Sealant/RTV (if required by manual)
- For non-gasket surfaces or where original used sealant.

- Common replacement parts and why they may be needed
- Clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, release/throwout bearing)
- Why: clutch discs wear and glaze, causing slipping, chatter, or poor engagement. Pressure plates can lose clamping force. Replace as a set when transmission is removed.
- Pilot bearing/bushing
- Why: wears over time, causing input shaft noise/vibration and misalignment. Replace whenever clutch is replaced.
- Input shaft seal
- Why: leaks cause transmission fluid loss and contamination of clutch; replace when transmission removed.
- Rear main seal (engine crankshaft rear seal)
- Why: often replaced while transmission out because it’s only accessible with transmission removed; prevents oil leaks into bellhousing.
- Transmission fluid (gear oil) and gasket/washer kit
- Why: fluid service needed after reassembly; crush washers and drain plug gaskets should be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Clutch fork pivot/bushing and pivot ball (release lever components)
- Why: worn pivot causes poor throwout bearing travel and noise; replace if worn.
- Transmission mount and crossmember bushings
- Why: worn mounts cause vibration, misalignment and can accelerate clutch wear.
- Shifter bushings/linkage parts
- Why: worn bushings make shifting sloppy; inexpensive to replace when accessible.
- Fasteners (bolts/nuts) if corroded or stretched
- Why: replacing damaged hardware prevents failure; torque spec adherence relies on good hardware.

- Diagnosis: decide what to repair
- Clutch slipping (engine revs increase without acceleration): likely worn clutch disc or oil contamination — plan for clutch kit and seal replacement.
- Grinding or inability to engage gears: could be linkage/shifter bushings, worn synchronizers, or clutch not fully disengaging — test linkage first, then consider clutch or transmission internal work.
- Fluid leaks from bellhousing area: inspect input shaft seal and rear main; replace as needed.
- Noisy transmission (whine/grind): could be bearings or gears — internal rebuild may be required.

- General step-by-step procedure (high-level, bullets)
- Prepare vehicle: disconnect battery, lift vehicle, support with jack stands, block wheels.
- Drain transmission fluid into pan; remove drain plug if available.
- Remove driveshaft(s): mark orientation for reinstallation, unbolt and lower.
- Remove shifter boot and shifter assembly as required, and disconnect shift linkage.
- Disconnect starter (remove bolts and wiring) to access bellhousing bolts.
- Support transmission with transmission jack or floor jack + wood block placed under the case.
- Remove transmission crossmember and transmission-to-frame mounts.
- Unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts (and transfer case bolts if applicable); keep hardware organized and note lengths/locations.
- Separate transmission from engine: pry gently at designed separation points until input shaft clears clutch/pressure plate. Guide transmission rearward and lower with jack.
- Inspect clutch components: measure clutch disc thickness vs new part specs, inspect pressure plate surface, check pilot bearing for play, inspect flywheel for heat spots/cracks.
- If replacing clutch:
- Remove pressure plate and disc, resurface or replace flywheel if scored (resurfacing at machine shop recommended for heat damage).
- Replace pilot bearing, rear main seal if leaking, input shaft seal.
- Install new clutch disc and pressure plate using alignment tool; torque pressure plate bolts to factory spec in a star pattern.
- Install new throwout bearing onto linkage/fork per kit instructions.
- Reinstall transmission: guide input shaft into clutch while supported on jack, gently push forward until bellhousing mates to block engine. Start bellhousing bolts by hand, then torque to spec.
- Reinstall crossmember, mounts, driveshaft(s), starter, shifter assembly and all disconnected components. Replace any worn mounts/bushings.
- Refill transmission and transfer case with correct fluid type and amount as per manual; check for leaks.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, test drive slowly and check for proper shifting, noises, and leaks.

- If internal transmission repair is required (rebuild)
- Consider professional shop unless you have a full set of specialty tools and experience.
- Tools required: full metric/SAE hand tools, snap ring pliers, bearing pullers, hydraulic press/shop press, magneto/gear pullers, dial indicator (for endplay), torque wrench with low range, parts cleaning equipment.
- Why: transmissions require precise bearing preloads, gear clearances, and proper reassembly order—incorrect work can destroy transmission.

- Fluids and parts specs (general guidance)
- Use correct manual transmission fluid specified by year/model — check service manual (often GL-4 gear oil for many JTs; do not assume).
- Replace crush washers on drain/fill plugs.
- Use OEM or reputable aftermarket clutch kit sized for your engine/transmission combo.

- Tips & cautions (short)
- Keep all bolts labeled by location; different lengths matter.
- Do not reuse the clutch disc or release bearing.
- Always torque to factory specs; under- or over-torquing causes failures.
- Replace seals when accessible—cheaper now than a second removal.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; have a fire extinguisher nearby when working with fluids.

- Quick summary of when to replace parts
- Replace clutch kit whenever transmission is removed for clutch wear or contamination.
- Replace input shaft seal and pilot bearing whenever transmission is out.
- Replace rear main seal if oil is present in bellhousing or as preventative if removed.
- Replace transmission mounts and shifter bushings if aged or cracked.
- Rebuild transmission only if diagnosed internal gear/ bearing failure or severe noise; otherwise service seals and fluid.

- Final recommendation
- Get a factory service manual for your exact TJ year/model before starting; follow torque specs and sequences precisely. If the job requires a press or complex bearing preload adjustments, take the transmission to a transmission repair shop.


rteeqp73

DiabloSport 2015 Jeep Wrangler PCM Swap Tutorial & Installation This video will walk you through how to remove your factory PCM, and then install the DiabloSport Modified PCM in its place.

What’s in My OFF-ROAD TOOL BAG – Jeep Wrangler Every Day Carry Having a few of the right tools when you are out on the trail could make the difference of you or your buddy getting home or being ...

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