Tools needed
- Basic metric socket set (8–13 mm), ratchet, extensions
- Flat screwdriver and/or small pry tool
- Long needle-nose pliers or tongue-and-groove pliers
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses, shop rag
- Handheld vacuum pump (optional, for testing)
- Replacement PCV valve (specific to your TJ engine) and replacement rubber grommet/hose if cracked
- Small hose clamp(s) or clamp pliers (if hose uses clamps)
- Spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner (for leak test)
- Wheel chocks

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface, parking brake set, wheels chocked.
- Engine off and cool. PCV area can be hot; let it cool to avoid burns.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to keep oil off your skin and eyes safe.
- Keep dirt away from intake openings — cap or plug any open ports immediately.
- Disconnect battery only if you’ll be doing other electrical work; not required for PCV swap.

Overview / where it is
- The TJ PCV valve sits in the valve cover (in a rubber grommet) and connects to an intake vacuum hose. Locations vary by engine but it will be a small plastic/metal valve sticking out of the valve cover with a rubber hose going to the intake. If you can’t find it, follow the hose from the fresh-air/air intake manifold area back to the valve cover.

Step-by-step removal and replacement
1) Prepare
- Park, chock wheels, let engine cool, wear PPE.
- Remove any engine covers or airbox parts that block access to the valve cover and PCV hose.

2) Locate PCV and inspect
- Find the small hose that runs from the intake/throttle body area to the valve cover. Follow it to the PCV valve seated in the rubber grommet.
- Look for oil-soaked hose, cracked rubber grommet, or a brittle valve — these indicate replacement.

3) Remove vacuum hose from PCV
- Use pliers or your fingers to loosen/remove any clamp on the hose.
- Twist the hose a few turns to break seal, then pull it off the PCV valve. If stuck, a small flat screwdriver carefully used to pry at the hose end while twisting helps; avoid prying against the valve body.

4) Extract the PCV valve from the grommet
- Grip the PCV valve near the base (not the hose nipple end) with needle-nose pliers. Twist and pull straight out. The valve usually pops out of the rubber grommet.
- If the grommet is stuck, pry gently between grommet and valve cover to loosen the grommet and pull them out together.

5) Inspect/clean mating area
- Wipe oil and grime from the valve cover hole and the end of the hose. Replace the rubber grommet if it’s cracked, flattened, or hardened.

6) Test old PCV (quick check)
- Shake it: a good PCV usually has a loose internal plunger and will rattle. If it’s solid/stuck or clogged with sludge, replace it.
- Optional: use a handheld vacuum pump on the end — the valve should move and not pass a lot of flow when the plunger is closed. If it doesn’t move or is erratic, replace.

7) Install new grommet (if replacing)
- Lubricate lightly with clean engine oil and press the new grommet into the valve cover hole until seated.

8) Install new PCV valve
- Push the new PCV valve into the grommet until fully seated. Ensure correct orientation — the hose nipple faces the intake hose. You should feel/ hear it snap in.

9) Reconnect vacuum hose and clamp
- Slide hose onto the valve nipple, secure with clamp if used. Make sure hose is not kinked and has a continuous, snug connection.

10) Final checks
- Start engine, listen for abnormal hissing. Spray a small amount of carb/brake cleaner around the grommet/hose junction; if idle changes or it pulls-in, you have a vacuum leak — reseat connections.
- Inspect for oil leaks around the grommet while engine runs. Turn off engine and recheck hose and clamp tightness.

11) Clean up and test drive
- Reinstall any removed components, clear any check-engine codes (if present) after verifying repair. Drive and verify normal idle and no oil smell or smoke.

How the tools are used (quick)
- Pliers: grip and twist hose or PCV body for removal; don’t use excessive force to avoid crushing the valve or tearing the grommet.
- Flat screwdriver/pry tool: carefully used to nudge a stuck grommet loose or to help break a hose seal — protect valve cover paint.
- Socket set: remove engine covers or airbox pieces blocking access.
- Hand vacuum pump (optional): applies vacuum to PCV to verify the internal plunger moves; a stuck unit should be replaced.

Replacement parts required
- PCV valve (replace if stuck, noisy, or during routine maintenance ~30k–50k miles)
- Rubber grommet (cheap, but replace if hardened/cracked)
- Vacuum hose (replace if brittle, oil-saturated, cracked)
- Small hose clamp(s) if existing ones are corroded or not serviceable

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Forcing a stuck valve or hose — excessive force can tear the grommet or break the valve, causing a vacuum leak.
- Reusing a hardened/brittle grommet — leads to vacuum leaks and oil seepage.
- Letting dirt fall into the intake when the hose is removed — cap or plug opened ends quickly.
- Installing the PCV backwards — valve must face intake hose; check orientation.
- Forgetting to inspect/replace the hose — a bad hose will negate a new PCV valve.
- Not checking for vacuum leaks after installation — unseated grommet or torn hose will cause idle problems.
- Overlooking sludge: excessive engine sludge means the PCV system replacement is only part of the fix; consider a proper engine service.

Time estimate
- 10–30 minutes total for a routine PCV swap on a TJ if access is good; longer if you must remove the airbox or if grommet/hose is frozen.

That’s it — remove, inspect/test, replace valve and any worn hose/grommet, verify no vacuum leaks.
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