1) Overview (theory, in one line)
- Valve springs hold intake/exhaust valves closed and return them after the cam lobe opens them; weakened or broken springs allow valves to float, not seat properly, cause misfires, loss of compression, noisy valvetrain and possible valve/piston contact. Replacing springs restores correct seating force, valve timing fidelity and prevents float/damage.

2) Preparations (why and what)
- Safety: work on a cool engine, disconnect negative battery to avoid accidental cranking/electrical hazards. Why: eliminates burns and unexpected rotation.
- Tools/parts: valve spring compressor appropriate for OHV pushrod heads, socket set, torque wrench, screwdrivers, magnet/pick for keepers, clean rags, small parts trays, replacement valve springs, retainers, keepers/locks, valve stem seals (recommended), spring seats (if used). Why: correct tools compress springs safely; seals and seats are wear items commonly replaced together.
- Marking/organization: label or keep pushrods/rocker arms in order and orientation. Why: pushrods and rockers wear in pairs; mixing changes geometry.

3) Expose the valvetrain (ordered)
- Remove airbox/obstructions, then remove valve cover(s) to expose rocker assembly. Why: needed access.
- If your engine is OHV (TJ 4.0L, 2.5L), remove rocker arm assembly or loosen and move rockers off the valve studs and remove pushrods, storing them in the same hole order and orientation. Why: springs sit under the keepers/retainers; pushrods and rockers must be out of the way and reinstalled in same positions to preserve seating and wear patterns.

4) Set cylinder position before each spring removal (ordered, theory)
- Rotate engine by hand to place the cylinder you’ll work on at Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke (both valves closed). Why: when both valves are on the base circle of the cam, springs are not under maximum load and valves remain closed, preventing the valve from dropping into the combustion chamber when you remove the spring retainer.
- If you can’t or choose not to TDC each time, at minimum ensure the valve is closed and the lifter is on the base circle.

5) Compress spring and remove keepers (ordered)
- Fit the valve spring compressor so it pushes the retainer down while holding the spring. Slowly compress until the keeper pair is visible in the retainer groove.
- Use a magnet/pick to remove valve keepers (locks). Remove compressor and let retainer/spring come out carefully. Remove spring, retainer, spring seat (if fitted), and inspect valves and stem seals. Why: compressor relieves spring force so keepers can be removed safely; keepers hold retainer in place under high load.

6) Inspect components and measure (theory + ordered)
- Inspect keepers and retainer for wear or cracking; inspect spring for broken coils, corrosion, or loss of free length. Measure free length and compare to spec if available; check installed height if you have specs. Inspect valve stem tip and guide play; replace valve stem seals now. Why: springs and retainers fail gradually; measuring confirms replacement necessity and ensures correct installed geometry.
- If valve guides are worn or stems scored, consider machining or head service. Why: poor guides allow valve wobble that accelerates spring and seat wear and causes leaks.

7) Install new spring assembly (ordered)
- Clean the valve stem and guide area. Install new stem seal (if replacing). Place spring seat (if used), then new spring, then retainer.
- Compress the spring with the compressor tool, align and install keepers into the retainer groove, then slowly release compressor so keepers seat. Verify keepers are fully seated by lightly prying retainer — it should not lift the keepers. Why: correct seating of keepers is critical to avoid retainer/keeper separation under load, which can drop a valve into the cylinder.

8) Reassembly and valve lash/check (ordered)
- Reinstall pushrods in their original positions and reinstall rocker arms/rocker assembly per factory sequence. Torque bolts to manufacturer spec. Why: correct torque and sequence secure geometry and preload.
- If engine uses adjustable rockers (some TJ variants have hydraulic lifters—no lash adjustment), follow the correct method: for adjustable solid lifters set lash at spec with valve at base circle; for hydraulic lifters preload per spec or follow factory bleed-in/procedure. Why: incorrect lash/preload leads to noisy valvetrain, poor performance, or lifter collapse.
- Reinstall valve cover and any removed intake/air parts.

9) Verification (ordered, theory)
- Rotate engine by hand multiple turns to ensure no interference and that valvetrain moves freely. Start engine and listen for unusual noise. Why: verifies no binding or installed part interference.
- Perform compression or leak-down test if you suspect seat sealing problems. A restored spring improves valve seating at high rpm and under load; improved compression/leak-down numbers confirm restoration of sealing performance.

10) How the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- Bad/weak springs allow the valve to lag the cam’s motion (valve float) or not fully close under inertia/rapid cam events, causing misfires, loss of compression, power loss at higher RPM, and noisy valvetrain. Broken springs let valves stay open or drop (catastrophic). Replacing springs restores designed closing force, ensuring valves follow the cam profile, seat reliably to seal the combustion chamber, and avoid piston/valve contact. Replacing seals and related components restores sealing around valve stems and prevents oil burning.

11) Final checks and notes (concise)
- Keep parts organized and torque to factory specs. Replace springs in matched sets or all springs if any are significantly worn. If you detect valve seat damage, bent valves, or large guide wear, a head rebuild is required. After repair, avoid high-RPM runs until you confirm proper operation.

That’s the ordered procedure with the underlying reasons and how it cures the faults.
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