- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, closed-toe shoes; avoid loose clothing.
- Work on a level surface, chock rear wheels, and set parking brake.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always support the vehicle on quality jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- Support suspension components with a floor jack or blocks before disconnecting anything that carries spring or axle load to avoid sudden movement.
- If you are unsure at any step, stop and consult a factory service manual or a professional — incorrect suspension repair can cause loss of control while driving.

- What “suspension knuckle repair” typically means on a Jeep Wrangler TJ (1997–2006)
- Common repairs: replace a bent/damaged steering knuckle, replace worn wheel bearings/hub assembly, replace pressed-in ball joints, replace tie-rod end or drag link end, or repair/replace hub/CV components.
- For a beginner, the simplest, safest option is to replace the entire knuckle assembly pre-assembled with bearing/hub pressed in (if available) to avoid needing a hydraulic press.

- Parts you may need and why
- Steering knuckle (replacement) — required if knuckle is bent, cracked, or threads/splines are damaged.
- Complete hub/wheel-bearing assembly (or knuckle with hub preinstalled) — replace if hub bearings are noisy, have play, or are damaged; buying pre-assembled saves a press.
- Upper and lower ball joints — usually pressed into the knuckle; replace if boots ripped, play present, or you remove knuckle.
- Tie-rod end (outer) and drag link end — replace if boots torn or play; separating will likely damage the tie-rod boot if you use a pickle fork.
- Castle nuts and cotter pins — always replace cotter pins; replace nuts if rounded or corroded.
- Seals, grease, anti-seize, thread locker — for reassembly as required.
- Brake hardware (caliper bolts, rotor, pads) — inspect; may need replacement if damaged during disassembly.
- CV axle-related parts (if damaged) — inspect splines and axle seal for leaks.

- Required basic tools (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Use: lift the vehicle at the recommended jacking point; pump to raise. Position jack stands immediately under solid frame points and lower the jack so weight rests on stands.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Use: set rated stands on solid flat ground at factory support points; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Use: place behind rear wheels to prevent rolling.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket
- Use: loosen lug nuts and axle nut. Use steady force; heel of hand technique. If stuck, apply penetrating oil and let soak.
- Socket set (metric) with ratchet and extensions
- Use: remove bolts/nuts. Use proper sized sockets to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Use: tighten critical fasteners to factory torque spec. Set value, snug up fastener, then torque to spec until click.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Use: hold nut or bolt head while turning the other side with a socket.
- Pry bar
- Use: to gently persuade components apart once bolts are off; support/lever carefully to avoid damage.
- Hammer and dead-blow hammer
- Use: striking separator tools or persuading stuck parts loose. Use dead-blow to avoid distortion.
- Ball joint separator (tie rod/pickle fork or press-style)
- Pickle fork: wedge between ball joint taper and hit with hammer to separate; it damages boots.
- Press-style separator: threaded tool that presses the ball joint out without destroying surrounding components; preferred if available.
- Ball joint press (C-clamp style) or large bearing press
- Use: press pressed-in ball joints out/in by aligning adapters and turning the forcing screw. Requires steady alignment; can be done with vehicle-mounted adapters or a bench press.
- Hub puller / slide hammer with hub puller attachment
- Use: pull the hub or rotor off a stuck spindle/knuckle. Attach to hub and apply even force to avoid breaking studs.
- Punch and drift set
- Use: remove cotter pins, alignment dowels, and stubborn components gently.
- Needle-nose pliers and channel-lock pliers
- Use: remove cotter pins and hold components.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner
- Use: clean mating surfaces and remove rust before reassembly.
- Grease and grease gun (if replacing greasable joints)
- Use: lube new ball joints per spec.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Use: soak rusty nuts/bolts overnight to make removal easier.
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker (blue)
- Use: anti-seize on hub splines/bolts, thread locker on bolts where specified.

- Extra/advanced tools (why they may be required)
- Hydraulic shop press (or access to one)
- Why: pressing wheel bearings or certain ball joints in/out safely. Many garages have presses; buying one is expensive.
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Why: quickly removes stuck axle nut or lug nuts. Not required but saves effort.
- Torque stick or breaker bar with longer cheater pipe
- Why: more leverage to break very tight nuts. Use carefully — excessive force may damage threads.
- Service manual or factory torque spec reference
- Why: provides exact torque values and sequence — critical for safety. Always use factory specs.

- How to use the main tools safely and effectively (short how-to)
- Jack and jack stands
- Raise with jack, place stands under frame rails, lower vehicle onto stands, shake the vehicle to confirm stability.
- Breaker bar
- Attach correct socket, position square to nut, use steady controlled force; do not use unless stable and supported.
- Torque wrench
- Pre-set desired torque, snug fastener, then apply steady pull until wrench clicks; recheck after short test drive.
- Ball joint separator (press-type)
- Align adapter on ball joint stud and drive cup on joint. Turn the forcing screw slowly until the joint pops out. Keep tooling square to avoid bending control arm.
- Pickle fork
- Place fork between tapered joint and corresponding part, strike with hammer until separated. Expect to replace torn boot/booted part.
- Hub puller / slide hammer
- Bolt puller onto hub (or lug studs), then operate slide hammer to pull straight outward. Protect studs and avoid twisting to prevent damage.

- Step-by-step repair sequence (beginner-friendly; use appropriate tool notes inline)
- Prepare vehicle: loosen front-wheel lug nuts slightly while on the ground, loosen the axle nut (if applicable) while wheel is on ground using breaker bar or impact (hold brake to prevent wheel turning), then jack front, support on jack stands, remove wheel.
- Remove brake components: remove caliper (support with wire; do not let hang by brake hose), remove rotor. Use socket/ratchet and store bolts. Remove brake dust shield if it blocks hub removal.
- Remove ABS sensor wiring (if equipped): unplug and unbolt sensor to avoid damage.
- Support lower control arm and axle: place a floor jack beneath the lower control arm or axle flange and support so the weight is supported when ball joints are separated.
- Disconnect tie-rod end and drag link end: remove cotter pin and nut, then separate using a press-style separator or pickle fork. If using pickle fork expect to replace the tie-rod end boot.
- Remove castle nut from upper and lower ball joints: remove cotter pins first. Use press-style ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate. If joint is pressed in, use ball joint press to push the studs out of the knuckle.
- Lower control arm/knuckle separation: once both ball joints and tie rod are free, carefully lower the jack supporting the control arm to drop the knuckle free. Control spring/coil position—do not allow spring to suddenly shift.
- Remove hub from knuckle:
- If hub is bolted to knuckle: remove bolts and use hub puller to separate.
- If hub is pressed into knuckle (bearing): either remove bearing with a press or buy a knuckle pre-assembled with bearing/hub to avoid pressing.
- Inspect parts: check knuckle for cracks/bends, check hub bearing for play/noise, inspect ball joints and tie-rod ends for play and torn boots, check CV axle splines and seal for leaks.
- Replace parts as required:
- If knuckle bent/cracked: replace knuckle assembly. Recommended: buy knuckle with hub/bearing preinstalled (saves pressing).
- If bearings worn: replace hub/bearing assembly.
- Replace ball joints and tie-rod ends when removed or if worn.
- Replace cotter pins and any damaged nuts/bolts.
- Install new or repaired knuckle/hub:
- If using pre-assembled knuckle/hub: lift into position, support, insert ball joint studs into control arm pockets, tighten nuts hand-tight, torque to factory spec with torque wrench, install new cotter pins.
- If pressing new bearings: use press or have a shop press bearings into knuckle.
- Reassemble brakes and wheels: reinstall rotor, caliper, ABS sensor, and any shields. Torque caliper and wheel lug nuts to spec (lug nuts final torque with vehicle on ground).
- Re-torque critical fasteners: with vehicle on ground and suspension settled, set torque wrench to factory specs and torque axle nut, ball joint nuts, and tie-rod nuts to spec, insert new cotter pins.
- Test: lower vehicle, torque lug nuts properly, do a short low-speed test drive to check for noises or steering pull. Recheck fasteners after a few miles.

- Common gotchas and tips
- Loosen the axle nut before lifting the wheel; it’s hard to break free when the wheel is off the ground.
- Ball joints and tie-rod ends often require a press to remove and reinstall cleanly; reproducing factory fit without a press is difficult.
- If you use a pickle fork you will tear the rubber boot — plan to replace the joint or tie-rod end.
- Replacing the knuckle often requires new pressed-in ball joints; budget for them.
- Using a knuckle/hub assembly pre-assembled from the parts counter usually saves specialized tools and reduces time/risk.
- Always use factory torque specs — incorrect torques can lead to component failure and unsafe driving.

- When a professional or machine shop is recommended
- If the knuckle needs bearing work (press in/out) and you don’t have a hydraulic press, have a shop press bearings in/out.
- If the knuckle is severely rusted or hub is stuck onto the axle splines, a shop with a slide hammer and experience may be needed.
- If you are not confident torquing and reassembling suspension parts to spec, have a professional perform or check the work.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting (avoid unplanned trips)
- Replacement knuckle or knuckle-with-hub-bearing assembly (recommended for beginners)
- Upper and lower ball joints (if not included)
- Outer tie-rod end(s) and drag link end if worn
- Castle nuts and new cotter pins
- Hub/axle nut (often replaced once removed)
- Brake cleaner, anti-seize, grease
- Penetrating oil and rags

- Final reminder
- Use the factory service manual for your specific year/model TJ for torque specs and special procedures. Safety and correct torque/fit are critical for steering and suspension components.

(No questions. Follow the steps, use the tools described, and replace any damaged or worn components as noted.)
rteeqp73

PCM Installation on 2011 JEEP WRANGLER RUBICON. In this installation video i show you how to change your pcm and what not to do afterwards lol. Like Sub and Share!

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