Tools & supplies
- Socket set (metric): 8, 10 mm sockets and ratchet; 3/8" drive + 6" extension.
- Torque wrench (capable down to low ft·lb/in·lb).
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers.
- Pliers (needle-nose).
- Small pick or trim tool (for clips/hoses).
- Throttle body / carb cleaner (fast-evap, TB-safe).
- Soft nylon brush or old toothbrush, lint-free rags.
- New throttle body gasket (recommended) or O‑ring; replacement IAC or TPS if defective.
- Spray parts cleaner or brake cleaner (optional) and container to catch runoff.
- OBD-II code reader / scanner (optional but recommended).
- Safety: nitrile gloves, safety glasses, shop rags.

Safety precautions
- Work in a well-ventilated area; throttle cleaner is flammable and toxic. No smoking/open flame.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting to avoid accidental short or ECU commands.
- Allow engine to cool before working around intake components.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Avoid breathing spray mist.
- Do not force or pry sensors or connectors — they are brittle.

Overview (what you’re doing)
You will remove the intake snorkel, disconnect electrical and throttle cable linkages, unbolt and remove the throttle body, clean the butterfly and bore, replace the gasket, then reinstall and perform ECU idle relearn/check for codes.

Step-by-step (Jeep Wrangler TJ — typical 2.5L / 4.0L)
1. Prep
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and wait 5–10 minutes to let modules reset.

2. Access
- Remove air intake snorkel and airbox or air filter housing so you have clear access to the throttle body.
- Note routing of vacuum lines and breather hoses; take photos if needed.

3. Disconnect electricals and hoses
- Unplug the TPS (throttle position sensor) connector and IAC (idle air control) connector if present.
- Remove PCV/breather hose and any vacuum lines attached to the throttle body. Label hoses if necessary.

4. Disconnect throttle cable
- At the throttle lever, remove the retaining clip or pin that holds the cable onto the lever (use pliers/pick). Pull the cable end off the lever. Do not damage the cable sheath.
- Move the cable out of the way so it won’t snag on reinstallation.

5. Unbolt throttle body
- Remove the bolts/nuts securing the throttle body to the intake manifold (usually 4 bolts). Use a short extension so you can reach them straight.
- Hold throttle body as last bolt comes loose to avoid dropping.

6. Remove throttle body
- Remove throttle body assembly from manifold. Inspect gasket surface on manifold for residue or damage.

7. Clean throttle body
- Place throttle body on a clean work surface.
- Use throttle-body-safe cleaner in short bursts. Spray cleaner on a rag and wipe first; avoid soaking the TPS/IAC sensor housings with cleaner.
- Manually operate the butterfly (throttle plate) while cleaning the bore and plate edges. Use nylon brush to scrub carbon deposits where rag alone won’t remove them.
- For heavy carbon, allow cleaner to soak briefly then agitate with brush. Keep cleaner out of electrical connector openings.
- Wipe dry with lint-free rag. Ensure passages (IAC ports) are free of debris.

Tool usage detail: throttle body cleaner
- Hold can 6–8" from surface; use 1–2 second bursts.
- Spray cleaner on rag or brush to avoid excess liquid getting into sensor openings.
- For IAC ports, use a small pick/brush and a rag — only short bursts to avoid contaminating internals.

8. Inspect components
- Check throttle plate and shaft for excessive wear or play.
- Inspect TPS and IAC for corrosion/damage. If IAC is plugged or TPS gives intermittent readings, replace them.
- Replace throttle body gasket—always use a new gasket. If original uses a rubber O-ring, replace it.

9. Reinstall throttle body
- Clean mating surfaces on intake manifold and throttle body.
- Position new gasket, set throttle body in place, start bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern evenly. Use a torque wrench and tighten to manufacturer spec if available; if you don’t have the spec, snug evenly and finish with a low torque — do not overtighten (avoid stripping aluminum manifold). (Manufacturer torque spec: consult factory manual for exact value.)

10. Reconnect cable and electricals
- Reattach throttle cable to lever and reinstall clip/pin. Ensure cable routing is correct and cable operates smoothly through full travel.
- Reconnect all vacuum lines, breather hoses, TPS and IAC connectors.
- Reinstall airbox/snorkel and filter.

11. Reconnect battery and start
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- With engine cold, start engine. It may idle high/low initially — allow about 2–5 minutes to stabilize. If idle is erratic, open throttle slowly a couple times to help IAC relearn.
- Use an OBD-II scanner to check/clear any stored codes. If codes persist (P0505 idle control, P0121 TPS), further diagnostics of IAC/TPS wiring or replacement may be needed.

12. Final checks
- Inspect for vacuum leaks (listen, use carb cleaner spray around gasket with engine running — no RPM change should occur).
- Test drive and observe idle behavior and throttle response.
- Recheck bolt tightness after first heat cycle.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Throttle body gasket (always replace).
- IAC valve (common failure) — remove, inspect; replace if stuck or electrically out of spec.
- TPS (if DTCs or poor throttle response).
- Throttle body assembly (if heavily corroded or butterfly shaft worn).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Damaging electrical connectors: pull on the connector body, not the wires; use pick to release locking tab.
- Over-spraying cleaner into TPS/IAC: spray on rag/brush, not directly into sensors.
- Not replacing gasket: leads to vacuum leaks and poor idle—always use a new gasket.
- Overtightening bolts: aluminum manifold threads strip easily — use correct torque.
- Not disconnecting battery: risk of shock or ECU commanding throttle unexpectedly.
- Leaving vacuum lines disconnected or misrouted: causes rough idle and check engine lights — label hoses.
- Forgetting to reattach throttle cable correctly: may cause stuck throttle or limp function.
- Using harsh metal brushes: can scratch bore. Use nylon brush or very soft brass if needed.

When to replace instead of clean
- Throttle plate or bore badly scored, shaft excessively worn or loose, or TPS/IAC electrically failed — replace the assembly or individual failed components.

Quick troubleshooting after service
- Check engine light on: read codes with scanner — common ones: P0505 (IAC), P0121/P0122 (TPS).
- High idle: IAC stuck open or vacuum leak at gasket/hoses.
- Low/unstable idle: IAC stuck closed or electrical connector loose.

Done.
rteeqp73

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