Jeep Wrangler TJ 2003 factory workshop and repair manual
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Covers the gasoline petrol engines 2.5 L PowerTech I4 * 4.0 L PowerTech I6
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Lubrication and Maintenance
Suspension
Differential & Driveline
Vehicle Quick Reference
Brakes
Cooling
Audio/Video
Chime/Buzzer
Electronic Control Modules
Engine Systems
Heated Systems
Horn
Ignition Control
Instrument Cluster
Lamps
Message Systems
Power Systems & Restraints
Speed Control
Vehicle Theft Security
Wipers/Washers
Navigation/Telecommunication
Wiring
Engine
Exhaust System
Frame & Bumpers
Fuel System
Steering
Transmission and Transfer Case
Tires/Wheels
Body
Heating & Air Conditioning
Emission Control
Component and System Index
Jeep Wrangler TJ 2003 factory workshop and repair manual
Tools & parts (prepare before starting)
- New choke cable assembly sized for your Jeep/aftermarket carb (outer sheath + inner wire, firewall grommet, retaining clip/clevis). OEM replacement or a universal choke cable + bracket if using a carb conversion.
- Small socket set and ratchet, metric & SAE.
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat).
- Needle‑nose pliers and slip‑joint pliers.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Wire cutters.
- Drill + correctly sized drill/step bit and deburring file (only if you must make/enlarge a firewall hole).
- Cable lube or silicone spray; small syringe or cable‑lubing tool (optional).
- Zip ties and small clamps or hose clamps.
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and a small fire extinguisher rated for gasoline fires.
Safety precautions (must do)
- Work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area away from open flames or sparks. No smoking.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal before any work to avoid accidental cranking or sparks.
- If you will loosen fuel fittings/lines or work on a carb, relieve fuel pressure and have rags/absorbent pads ready. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Support the hood securely and keep hands clear of moving parts when testing.
- If drilling the firewall, check both sides for wiring/harnesses before drilling.
Step‑by‑step: remove old choke cable
1. Disconnect battery negative.
2. Interior: pull the choke knob from the dash (pull straight out). If there is a bezel, remove screws and pull the cable assembly from behind the dash.
3. In the engine bay, locate where the cable exits the firewall. Remove the rubber grommet or trim bezel if present.
4. Follow the cable to the choke housing on the carburetor (or aftermarket choke/bracket). Note how the inner wire attaches (clevis pin, e‑clip, cotter pin or ball end).
5. Use pliers or screwdriver to remove the retaining fastener (E‑clip or cotter pin) and disconnect the inner wire from the choke lever.
6. Loosen the clamp or set screw that holds the cable sheath against the carburetor/choke housing and slide the sheath free.
7. Pull the cable assembly back through the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
Step‑by‑step: install new choke cable
1. Inspect firewall hole and grommet. Install a new rubber firewall grommet if the old one is worn or the hole is too large. Deburr any sharp metal edges.
2. Route the new cable from the dash area out through the firewall to the engine bay. Make sure the curve is gentle — avoid tight bends that could bind the inner wire.
3. Seat the outer sheath flange at the firewall grommet so the sheath is anchored at the firewall. If the cable has a flange or nut to secure it at the dash, install that as the instructions specify.
4. At the carb/choke housing, slide the sheath into the clamp/bracket and tighten the clamp/set screw so the outer jacket is clamped solidly and the inner wire can slide freely.
5. Attach the inner wire end to the choke lever: position the lever for the desired rest position (typically fully open when the knob is pulled out) and connect using the supplied clevis, E‑clip or cotter pin. Use needle‑nose pliers to bend/secure the pin/clips.
6. Adjust cable length: with the knob fully released (pushed in or pulled out depending on knob style), the choke must return to its “open” position fully — verify visually on the carb. With knob pulled to full “choke” position, the choke plate should close fully without forcing. Set cable length so full travel corresponds to full open/closed choke.
7. Tighten all clamps and fasteners. Secure the cable along the engine side with zip ties or clamps to prevent it from rubbing on exhaust, steering components, or moving parts. Leave enough slack for engine movement and steering.
8. Lubricate: spray cable lube or silicone into the sheath where the inner wire enters, then operate the knob repeatedly to draw lube through. A lightweight cable lube or silicone spray is preferred; avoid heavy grease that attracts dirt.
9. Reinstall dash bezel and choke knob. Reconnect battery negative.
Adjustment & testing
1. With engine cold, start and observe choke operation. Pull/push the knob and watch the choke plate — it must move freely and return to open position as engine warms.
2. If the engine floods or runs excessively rich when warm, the choke may be too far in (overclosing). Lengthen the cable slightly (move clevis or adjust bracket) so the closed position is not overly aggressive.
3. If the choke doesn’t close enough when cold, shorten the cable (bring clevis closer) until adequate plate closure is achieved for cold starting.
4. Double‑check that the cable never binds, rubs on hot components, or interferes with the throttle or linkage.
How the cable and tools are used (quick)
- Needle‑nose pliers: remove/fit E‑clips, bend cotter pins, hold small parts.
- Slip‑joint pliers/adjustable wrench: tighten clamp nuts and set screws on cable bracket.
- Screwdrivers/sockets: remove dash bezel and loosen carb/clamp hardware.
- Drill/file: only if you must create or enlarge a firewall hole — drill, then file to remove sharp edges and install a grommet.
- Cable lube/syringe: introduce lubricant to inner wire to ensure smooth travel.
Replacement parts required (typical)
- Choke cable assembly sized for TJ or universal choke cable kit (includes inner wire, outer sheath, firewall grommet, clevis/clip). Get the correct length and end fitting for your choke housing.
- Firewall grommet (if old one is cracked or hole modified).
- Small hose clamp or dedicated cable bracket (if original clamp is missing).
- Optional: mounting bracket or adapter if using an aftermarket carb or different choke lever geometry.
Common pitfalls to avoid
- Routing the cable too close to exhaust or hot components — this will melt the sheath.
- Sharp edges at the firewall cutting the cable — always use a grommet and deburr the hole.
- Failing to clamp the outer sheath at the firewall or carb — the cable must be anchored so only the inner wire moves.
- Over‑bending/kinking the cable — tight radii cause binding and eventual failure.
- Forgetting to lubricate — a dry cable will feel sticky and bind.
- Incorrect adjustment — too much choke closing causes flooding; too little causes hard cold starts.
- Leaving slack so the knob position doesn’t correlate with actual choke position.
- Drilling firewall without checking for wiring/harness behind it.
Final check & service tips
- Recheck all fasteners after a short test drive and after the first few starts.
- Replace cable at first sign of frayed inner wire or damaged sheath.
- Keep the cable routed away from steering linkage and suspension components.
Done. rteeqp73
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The Automatic Transmission 42RLE is a four-speed transmission that is a conventional hydraulic/mechanical assembly controlled with adaptive electronic controls and monitors.