Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (incl. 8, 10, 13mm), ratchet, 3–6" extension
- Torque wrench (0–50 ft·lb range)
- Combination wrenches, long screwdriver or pry tool (plastic tip preferred)
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor blade, shop rags, brake cleaner
- Needle-nose pliers, flat screwdriver
- RTV silicone (high-temp, for corner spots if required by gasket maker/manufacturer)
- New valve cover gasket (specific to TJ engine), new spark-plug-tube seals (4.0L), new PCV grommet/PCV valve if brittle
- Small container for fasteners, shop light, gloves, eye protection

Safety first
- Work on a cold engine. Hot aluminum valve covers can burn.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. No jack stands required unless you raise the vehicle.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking or shorting.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep rags clean to avoid debris falling into the head.

Parts to order (typical)
- Valve cover gasket (engine-specific: 2.5L I4 or 4.0L I6)
- Spark plug tube seals (strongly recommended for 4.0L)
- PCV valve and/or grommet (inspect and replace if degraded)
- Optional: valve cover bolts/washers if corroded or stripped

High-level notes re engines
- TJ (1997–2006) common engines: 2.5L I4 and 4.0L I6. Procedure is the same conceptually; 4.0L uses spark-plug-tube seals that often leak and should be replaced. Torque specs below are typical for valve cover bolts; consult factory manual for exact spec for your year/engine.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Let engine cool completely. Disconnect negative battery. Remove air intake ducting, resonator, and anything blocking access to valve cover(s). Label or photograph vacuum hoses and wire routing before removal.

2) Remove ignition components and hoses
- For 4.0L distributor/plug-wire set-up: remove spark plug wire retainers and pull boots straight off spark plugs; lay wires aside in correct order. Remove ignition coil bracket or coil pack(s) if they obstruct the cover.
- Remove PCV valve and breather hose from the valve cover.
- Unbolt any throttle cable bracket, wiring harness clamps, fuel injector rail cover or other small brackets attached to the valve cover.

3) Remove valve cover bolts
- Use the correct socket (commonly 10mm) and extension. Keep bolts and any washers in a parts cup. Loosen bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid prying the cover off at one side and damaging the gasket. Remove all bolts and lift the cover straight up. If stuck, gently pry with a plastic shovel or pry tool — do not gouge mating surfaces.

4) Remove old gasket and seals
- Lift valve cover off. Pull out old gasket and spark plug tube seals (if present). Inspect the valve cover inside for sludge and the head surface for old gasket material.
- Use a plastic scraper and brake cleaner to remove old gasket and RTV residues from both cover and head mating surfaces. Do not use a metal scraper on aluminum heads — avoid gouging.

5) Inspect and clean
- Inspect valve cover for cracks or warpage, check bolt holes/grommets. Inspect spark plug tube seals, PCV grommet, and bolt washers. Clean valve cover thoroughly with solvent; ensure oil passages and PCV bore are clear.

6) Install new seals/gasket
- If your kit includes spark plug tube seals, press them into the valve cover until seated. Some seals are installed from the top, some from the bottom — follow part instructions.
- Fit the new gasket into the valve cover groove. For rubber gaskets it should seat flat without gaps. If the manufacturer or manual calls for small dabs of RTV at corners where the gasket ends meet timing cover or head, apply a very small bead (pea size) at those locations only — do not smear excess RTV around the entire mating surface.

7) Reinstall valve cover
- Place cover down squarely without shifting the gasket. Thread bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten bolts in a crisscross/star pattern in two passes: first snug all bolts, then final torque. Typical torque: 8 ft·lb (≈10 Nm). (Factory spec varies by year/engine — verify in factory manual; the important point is light, even torque. Over-torquing will warp or crack the cover.)

8) Reinstall components
- Reinstall PCV valve/grommet, hoses, ignition components, brackets and any removed parts in reverse order. Reconnect spark plug wires in the correct firing order and seat boots firmly. Reattach air intake ducting.

9) Final checks
- Reconnect negative battery. Start engine and inspect for leaks around the valve cover. Let engine run to operating temp and recheck. After a short drive, re-check torque to ensure bolts are still snug (do not over-torque).

How to use the key tools (quick usage notes)
- Torque wrench: set to specified value, tighten bolts in sequence in increments (e.g., 30%, 70%, final). Use a breaker bar only for removal; do not use torque wrench to loosen bolts.
- Gasket scraper: use plastic blade or very light metal with care. Clean until surface is smooth and flat. Wipe with brake cleaner and lint-free rag.
- Socket and ratchet: use correct size; use extension to keep the ratchet clear of obstructions and to apply torque evenly.

Common pitfalls — avoid these
- Over-torquing bolts: leads to cracked cover or compressed gasket and leaks. Use torque wrench and low spec.
- Reusing old spark plug tube seals (4.0L): common source of leaks — replace them.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: leftover old gasket or debris causes leaks.
- Using too much RTV: excess can squeeze into oil passages; only use small beads where explicitly required.
- Not routing wires/hoses correctly: misrouted spark plug wires can melt or cause misfires.
- Pry hard and gouge the head: aluminum heads are soft; damage causes future leaks.
- Not checking PCV or grommet: a bad PCV valve or hardened grommet causes vacuum and oil leaks.

When to replace valve cover completely
- Replace cover if cracked, warped, or bolt holes are damaged. Replace hardware (washers/grommets) if corroded or deteriorated.

Post-repair checks
- Check oil level and top up if needed. Monitor for leaks for the first 100 miles. Re-torque only if specified by factory service manual after heat cycles.

Done.
rteeqp73

Jeep Wrangler - Dash board speedometer screen settings and review I show you how to change the settings on your speedometer.

Top 5 Problems Jeep Wrangler JK SUV 3rd Generation 2007-2018 Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com https://1aau.to/c/137/N/gaskets Do you want to know the top problems with the Jeep ...

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