Job: Replace automatic transmission filter (and pan gasket) on a Jeep Wrangler TJ (1997–2006). Steps, tools, safety, how each tool is used, parts required, and common pitfalls.

Summary of parts required
- Replacement transmission filter specific to your TJ’s transmission (verify year/transmission model). Commonly a snap-in screen/filter with 2–3 mounting bolts.
- New transmission pan gasket (paper/rubber) or recommended RTV if gasketless pan.
- New transmission fluid — Mopar ATF+4 (required for Chrysler/Jeep automatics). Quantity: expect to add ~6–8 qts for a pan/filter service (total transmission capacity ~10–12 qts; consult service manual for exact).
- Optional: replacement pan bolts (if originals are damaged), new filter O-ring if required by filter kit.
- Rags, gasket scraper, small container for magnets/metal.

Tools needed and how each is used
- Floor jack + jack stands (or heavy-duty ramps): raise and support vehicle securely. Use jack to lift, then set stands under frame/axle points. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Wheel chocks: block front wheels to prevent movement.
- Large drain pan (6–10+ gallon): catch old ATF when you loosen pan.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric and SAE, typically 8–13 mm sockets). Used to remove pan bolts and filter mounting bolts.
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb range): torque pan bolts and filter bolts to spec on reassembly.
- Extensions and swivel joint: reach bolts in tight spaces.
- Flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar: carefully break the pan seal after most bolts removed.
- Gasket scraper or plastic scraper: remove old gasket material cleanly from pan and transmission surface.
- Brake cleaner or solvent and clean shop rags: clean pan, magnet, mating surfaces.
- Funnel or fluid pump (hand pump): to add new fluid to the transmission dipstick tube.
- Gloves and safety glasses.

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface. Engaging level is critical for correct fluid level.
- Chock front wheels, put vehicle in Park, set parking brake.
- Support vehicle with properly rated jack stands on frame or axle — not just the jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Transmission fluid can be hot; let engine/transmission cool if recently driven — or warm it slightly to make fluid flow easier (see step 1).
- Dispose of old ATF according to local regulations.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Warm transmission slightly (recommended)
- Drive or idle until transmission is warm (not scalding) to reduce fluid viscosity and help draining. Turn engine off before working underneath.

2) Prepare vehicle and workspace
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, set parking brake.
- Jack rear (or whole) vehicle and place on jack stands securely.
- Place drain pan under transmission pan and remove any undercarriage splash shields if needed.

3) Loosen pan bolts to drain fluid
- Leave several bolts tightened on one long side (or corners) so pan can pivot without dropping immediately.
- Start by loosening bolts on the opposite long side incrementally to allow fluid to drain in a controlled way into drain pan. If pan has a drain plug (rare), use that first.
- Use ratchet/socket to back out bolts about 1–2 turns gradually across the side so pan drops slowly and dumps fluid into pan. Let drain completely.

Pitfall to avoid: removing all bolts at once will dump a large volume and may spill fluid. Also use a big enough drain pan.

4) Remove transmission pan
- After most fluid drains, remove remaining bolts and lower the pan. Watch for remaining fluid.
- Remove pan completely and set aside on a clean surface.

5) Inspect and clean pan
- Remove old gasket material with scraper. Clean pan interior with solvent and a clean rag.
- Remove and clean magnets (or wipe metal accumulation off pan magnets). Inspect for excessive metal shavings — tiny filings are normal, chunks or gear material is not.
- Inspect pan for cracks or severe scarring; replace if damaged.

6) Remove old filter
- The filter usually bolts to the valve body with 2–3 bolts or snaps into place. Use appropriate socket to remove mounting bolts.
- Pull filter straight down; expect more fluid to drain from filter. Remove old O-ring(s) if present.

7) Install new filter
- Compare new filter to old to ensure match.
- Position new filter onto mounting bosses and install filter bolts. Tighten evenly.
- Torque filter mounting bolts to moderate torque — typical 7–10 ft·lb. Use service manual if exact spec required.

Tool note: use the socket/ratchet to snug bolts, then finish to torque with torque wrench for accuracy.

8) Prepare and fit new gasket / pan
- If using a separate gasket, set new gasket on pan. If using RTV, clean both surfaces, apply thin bead per manufacturer, and allow recommended cure if needed.
- If gasket is dowel-located, align pan so bolt holes match.

9) Reinstall pan
- Lift pan into place, start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts gradually in a criss-cross/star pattern to seat gasket evenly.
- Torque pan bolts to spec — commonly around 8 ft·lb (range 6–10 ft·lb) for many Jeep/TJ transmissions. Important: do not over-torque; pan bolts are small and strip easily. Verify exact torque from service manual if possible.

Pitfall to avoid: over-tightening bolts will crush gasket, warp pan, strip threads, and cause leaks.

10) Lower vehicle and refill transmission fluid
- Lower vehicle enough to access dipstick comfortably on level ground (or fully lower).
- Using a funnel or fluid pump, add the specified fluid: Mopar ATF+4 only.
- Add approximately 4–6 qts initially for a pan/filter change (rough guide). Final fluid level must be checked per procedure (next step). Do not overfill.

11) Start engine and cycle through gears
- With parking brake set and engine idling, cycle through gears slowly (P–R–N–D–2–1, pausing a few seconds each) to circulate fluid and purge air. Return to Park with engine idling.
- With engine idling and transmission warmed (after several minutes), check fluid level via dipstick.

12) Check and adjust fluid level properly
- Transmission must be at operating temperature (engine idling). On TJ automatics, check level with vehicle level, engine idling, and transmission at normal operating temp — read with dipstick; wipe, reinsert, then pull to read. Add fluid slowly and recheck until level is within the hot full mark.
- Avoid checking when cold; you'll underfill.

Pitfall to avoid: overfilling. Too much fluid causes foaming, harsh shifting, and overheating.

13) Inspect for leaks and road test
- With engine running and warmed, inspect pan gasket area and filter area for leaks.
- Take a short drive, shift through all gears, then recheck fluid level and inspect again.

Common pitfalls and troubleshooting
- Wrong fluid: Do NOT use Dexron II/III or non-ATF+4 fluids — Mopar ATF+4 is required for proper friction material. Using wrong fluid causes shift problems and possible damage.
- Over-tightening pan bolts: causes warped pan/gasket failure or stripped threads. Tighten to spec and use pattern.
- Not replacing gasket: reusing old gasket often leads to leaks.
- Not cleaning magnet/pan: neglecting metal filings can hide problems.
- Leaving filter bolts loose or over-torqued: loose bolts cause leaks or filter movement; over-torqued can strip threads or crack filter housing.
- Not warming transmission enough: cold fluid drains slowly and you may not remove as much old fluid; but do not remove when scalding hot.
- Not leveling vehicle when checking level: an uneven vehicle gives incorrect reading.
- Not disposing used fluid properly: recycle at an approved facility.

Torque/spec notes (general guidance)
- Filter bolt torque: ~7–10 ft·lb (snug; don’t over-torque).
- Pan bolt torque: ~6–10 ft·lb (typical). Consult your factory service manual for exact numbers for your year/model.

Final checks
- Ensure correct fluid type and level.
- Confirm no leaks after road test.
- Keep old fluid filtered in container for analysis if heavy metal found — may indicate internal wear.

That’s the complete procedure. Follow the service manual for bolt torques and specific OEM part numbers for your model year.
rteeqp73

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