Summary theory (short)
- Coil spring supports vehicle weight, sets ride height, stores/release energy as wheel moves, and works with shock absorber to control oscillation. Springs carry static load and provide progressive response to dynamic loads. If a spring is weak, broken, or corroded you get sagging, asymmetry, poor wheel control, clunks and accelerated shock or bushing wear.
- Replacing the spring restores correct preload and static ride height, so suspension geometry and spring rates return to design values. That reduces stress on shocks, bushings and steering, removes binding or contact, and restores predictable handling.

Safety and prep (must do)
1. Work on a flat level surface, chock opposite wheels, set parking brake.
2. Use wheel chocks, a good quality hydraulic jack and rated jack stands. Never rely on only a jack.
3. Have a spring compressor if springs are part of a strut/coilover assembly. Compressors are mandatory if disassembling a strut to remove a spring.
4. Wear eye protection and gloves. Rusted hardware can release energy—use caution.
5. Have factory torque specs and service manual for model year; follow them.

Tools and supplies you will need (typical)
- Floor jack, jack stands
- Wheel chocks, breaker bar, ratchet and sockets, wrenches
- Spring compressor (for strut assembly) OR large jack to lower control arm
- Pry bar, hammer, penetrating oil
- Torque wrench
- Replacement spring(s), new upper/lower isolators and bump stops as needed
- PB blaster / anti-seize, thread locker where specified

Diagnosing why to replace
- Visual sag (one corner lower), cracked/broken coil, heavy rust, coil contact with shock or body.
- Symptoms: bottoming, clunking, uneven tire wear, pulling, poor ride height or handling. These indicate spring has lost preload or failed.

Ordered procedure — Front coil spring (typical independent front suspension on WK/WH)
Note: On many WK/WH fronts the spring sits between lower control arm and chassis (separate shock). If the spring is inside a strut assembly, use the strut-specific notes.

1) Lift and secure vehicle
- Jack front under recommended jacking point, place stands under frame/subframe. Remove front wheel.
- Theory: leaving wheel off relieves load and allows control arm movement for spring removal.

2) Support lower control arm / subframe
- Place a transmission jack or second jack under lower control arm or subframe to support it before removing components that constrain it.
- Theory: the spring sits between chassis and control arm; supporting control arm prevents it from dropping uncontrollably when spring load is removed.

3) Disconnect shock absorber and sway bar link
- Remove lower shock bolt and disconnect sway bar link and any ride-height sensors or brake line brackets that limit control arm travel.
- Theory: fully releasing constraints lets the control arm drop far enough so the spring can be removed without forcing parts.

4) Loosen or remove lower control arm pivot fasteners (as needed)
- Either remove the lower control arm-to-subframe bolt(s) or loosen enough to allow arm to swing down. Do not remove support jack until arm is supported.
- Theory: freeing the arm changes the load path so the coil is no longer compressed between chassis and arm.

5) Lower control arm slowly to relieve spring preload
- Slowly lower the supporting jack until the spring is unseated and can be removed. Watch for binding and contact points.
- Theory: lowering reduces spring preload while keeping the arm controlled; this prevents violent release of energy.

6) Remove spring and inspect seats/isolation components
- Remove old spring; replace upper/lower rubber isolators, perch, bump stop, and dust covers as required.
- Theory: isolators prevent metal-on-metal contact and change the effective spring rate slightly; replacing them ensures correct seating and noise prevention.

7) Install new spring
- Fit new spring into the correct orientation (note tapered ends). Make sure isolators are installed and seated properly.
- Theory: correct orientation and isolator placement ensures the spring coils load progressively and locate the spring so rebound and compression occur as designed.

8) Raise control arm and reassemble
- Slowly raise control arm until the spring is under preload and seated. Reinstall control arm bolts, shock lower bolt, sway bar links, sensors and brackets. Torque to factory specs.
- Theory: restoring original preloads and torques returns geometry and load paths to design.

9) Refit wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec, perform bounce/visual check and road test
- Theory: test confirms height restored, no bind, no clunks, and damping works with the correct spring rate.

If the front spring is inside a strut (coilover/strut assembly)
- Remove the strut from vehicle.
- Use a proper spring compressor to safely compress the spring before undoing the strut top nut.
- Disassemble, remove old spring, install new spring with isolators, decompress carefully, reassemble strut, reinstall and torque to spec.
- Theory: compressing the spring removes stored energy so the top mount can be removed safely. Improper use risks violent release.

Ordered procedure — Rear coil spring (independent rear multi-link)
1) Lift rear, support with jack stands, remove rear wheel.
2) Support rear axle/subframe with a jack under lower control arm or axle beam.
3) Disconnect shock lower bolt and sway bar link(s) and any lateral link or track rod that prevents arm drop if needed.
4) Lower the axle/control arm slowly until spring unloads and can be removed. On multi-link setups you may need to remove a lower link bolt to gain travel.
5) Replace spring and isolators, seat correctly, raise assembly to preload.
6) Reinstall shock, links, torque all fasteners to factory specs.
7) Refit wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts, check ride height and test drive.

How each procedural action fixes the fault (concise)
- Removing constraints and lowering the arm safely removes spring preload so the failed spring can be removed without shock to the suspension components.
- Replacing the spring restores static preload and correct ride height, which corrects alignment geometry (caster/camber toe relationships) back toward design, removing abnormal tire wear and restoring predictable steering response.
- New isolators and bump stops eliminate metal contact, noise and premature wear of the spring ends and mounts.
- Re-torquing suspension fasteners restores correct clamping forces and prevents movement that causes clunks and accelerated wear.
- If the spring was broken, replacement removes the discontinuity in load path that caused clunks, bottoming and uneven loading on shocks and control arms.

Checks and follow-up
- Measure ride height corner-to-corner and compare to spec; adjust if adjustable.
- Inspect shock condition — a weak spring is often paired with worn shock; replace if leaking or soft.
- Wheel alignment after replacement is recommended because geometry changed when ride height changed.
- Verify all fasteners torqued to factory specs; inspect after a short test drive.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Relying only on a jack to support arms—dangerous.
- Not using a spring compressor when disassembling struts.
- Reusing old isolators or damaged seats (causes noise and improper seating).
- Ignoring shocks — replacing spring alone while shock is bad will give poor results.

This sequence gives the order and the physical reasons each action is needed and how replacing a coil spring repairs sag, noise and handling faults.
rteeqp73

Top 5 Problems Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo WK 3rd Generation 2005-10 Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com https://1aau.to/c/229/G/throttle-body-assembly This video introduces you to the 5 most ...

Top 5 Problems Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo WK 3rd Generation 2005-10 Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com https://1aau.to/c/229/G/throttle-body-assembly This video introduces you to the 5 most ...

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