1) Diagnosis (what you’re hearing and why)
- Symptom: deep, rhythmic “rod knock” that changes with RPM and load. Theory: the bearing between the connecting-rod big end and the crank journal has lost its correct oil-film support. Instead of a stable hydrodynamic oil wedge carrying load, metal parts intermittently contact, producing impact noise. Oil pressure is often low and metal debris may appear in the oil/filter.
- Tests: listen with a stethoscope (knock centered on crank area), check oil pressure, inspect oil/filter for metal, compression/borescope to rule out piston slap. Confirm it’s a rod bearing and not piston, main bearing, or timing-chain noise.

2) Decide scope of repair (why this matters)
- If only bearing shells are worn and crank journals are within size/roundness spec, replacing bearing shells and rod bolts (if torque-to-yield) will restore correct clearances and stop knock.
- If crank journals are scored/out-of-round or rods are bent/stretching, you need crankshaft grinding (undersize journals) or crank replacement, rod reconditioning/replacement, or a complete short-block rebuild. Replacing shells alone in that case will fail quickly.
- Also identify root cause (low oil, clogged pickup/oil pump, contaminated oil, overheating, detonation, over-rev). Fixing bearings without fixing supply/causes will re-fail.

3) Prepare and access the bottom end (practical sequence)
- Disconnect battery, drain oil and coolant, remove intake/exhaust/accessories as needed to free engine/transmission or subframe as per vehicle layout.
- Support engine and remove transmission (or remove engine) to gain safe access; bottom-end jobs on WH/WK engines normally require separating the drivetrain for sufficient clearance.
- Remove oil pan, oil pump pick-up/windage tray, and any splash shields so you can see crank and rods.

Theory note: full access is required to inspect journals and measure clearances precisely; attempting this blind risks wrong assessment.

4) Mark and remove assemblies in order (maintain orientation)
- Rotate engine so the first rod journal is accessible. For every piston/rod, mark piston-to-rod and rod-to-cap orientation and cylinder number. Remove rod caps in sequence and keep each cap with its rod/piston.
- Push pistons up into bores and remove rod+piston assemblies upward (or remove pistons through top if engine out).

Theory: rods and caps are matched and fitted; preserving orientation and torque history is essential to re-establish proper fit and alignment.

5) Inspect and measure (what you must check)
- Inspect rod big-end and cap mating surfaces for cracks, elongation, or distortion. Check rod small end and piston pin fit.
- Inspect bearing shells for imprint patterns, scoring, fatigue, embedded debris.
- Measure crankshaft journal diameter and roundness with micrometer at multiple positions; check for taper/out-of-round.
- Measure bearing bore and rod big-end internal dimensions (or use new bearing + micrometer to calculate expected clearance), and check rod bolt stretch if applicable.
- Optionally use Plastigage or precision bore/gauge to measure actual rod-bearing clearance.

Theory: correct bearing clearance (radial clearance micron-range) creates a hydrodynamic wedge when the journal rotates relative to the bearing. Too much clearance drops oil-film pressure; too little causes seizure. Roundness of the journal is critical to maintain uniform oil film.

6) Decide repair path (based on measurements)
- If journals OK and rods straight: replace bearing shells, replace rod bolts if specified (commonly torque-to-yield), clean and reassemble.
- If journals need machining: have crank reground and rod big ends honed or replace/re-machine rods to match undersize bearings; or replace crank if grinding not possible.
- If rods cracked/bent or bolts stretched: replace rods or rod assemblies.

7) Rebuild and reassemble (ordered actions and critical points)
- Clean all parts thoroughly; remove all debris from oil galleries.
- Fit correct new bearing shells (upper and cap). Ensure tabs/seatings are correct. Do not smear engine oil into bearings as assembly lube is required — use proper assembly lube on bearing surfaces.
- Install piston/rod assemblies back in cylinder in original orientation. Seat rod caps loosely.
- Check bearing clearance with Plastigage or measurement method to confirm within spec before final torquing.
- Torque rod caps to factory sequence and values; replace all torque-to-yield fasteners per manufacturer. Torque in stages and to correct angle if required.
- Rotate crank by hand to ensure free rotation and no binding.
- Reinstall oil pump, ensure pickup strainer is clean, prime oiling circuit (hand-turn oil pump if possible or pre-fill oil gallery using assembly lube), re-fit oil pan and gaskets.
- Reinstall drivetrain components, refill oil and coolant, new oil filter.

Theory: correct torque and bolt condition are required to maintain correct bearing crush and clamp load; correct clearance enables hydrodynamic lubrication once the engine is rotating and oil pressure rises. Priming the oiling system avoids dry start wear.

8) Start-up and verification
- On first start, monitor oil pressure immediately and listen for knocks. Keep engine at low RPM until oil temperature rises and pressure stabilizes. Re-check for metal in new oil/filter after short break-in run and at first oil change.
- If noise persists, shut down and re-inspect (likely deeper damage like crank damage).

How the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- The rod knock originates from loss of a stable hydrodynamic oil film between the rod bearing shell and crank journal (due to wear, contamination, low oil pressure, or geometry faults). Replacing worn bearing shells and correcting journal geometry restores the precise radial clearance that allows rotation to draw oil into a pressurized wedge. That pressurized oil film carries the dynamic load, preventing metal-metal impact and eliminating the knocking sound.
- Replacing damaged rods or fixing a worn crank restores concentricity and roundness; replacing stretched bolts and torquing to spec restores clamp loads so the bearing shells remain aligned and retain correct clearances under load.
- Fixing root causes (oil pump / pickup / debris / overheating / detonation) prevents recontamination or repeat wear. If crank journals are repaired (grind/polish), you remove damaged metal and recreate a smooth surface for the oil film, further ensuring film stability.

Final notes (short)
- Accurate measurement and correct torque/specs are essential; incorrect clearances or reuse of stretched bolts commonly cause immediate re-failure.
- If oil supply issues, contamination, or catastrophic crank damage are present, a simple bearing swap is insufficient — full bottom-end or short-block rebuild is required.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

V3946 GOOD WH JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE NOW WRECKING NOW DISMANTLING THIS 03/2008 WH JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 3.0 TURBO DIESEL TRAVELLED 188973 KLM.

Jeep Grand Cherokee WK Quadra Drive Test

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1) Quick theoretical overview (one-paragraph)
- Automatic bands are steel straps that wrap partway around a rotating drum tied to a planetary gear element. A hydraulic servo pushes the band tight onto the drum to hold that element and create a gear ratio. “Band adjustment” changes the band’s neutral clearance (freeplay) so that when the servo applies, the band clamps at the correct point in the servo stroke. Too loose = slipping, burned fluid, late/soft shifts and high RPMs; too tight = drag, chattering, overheating and premature wear. Proper adjustment makes the hydraulic apply stroke translate into correct clamp force and timing.

2) Symptoms that point to band clearance problems (short)
- Slipping in a specific gear, delayed engagement, burned-smelling fluid, repeated flare at shifts, or inconsistent shift timings. (If more general hydraulic or electronic faults exist, adjusting the band won’t fix them.)

3) Safety and verification (brief)
- Use correct vehicle lift/chocks, drain ATF into a clean pan, use factory fluid type (Chrysler ATF+4 for many Jeeps), and consult the factory manual for your exact transmission model and torque/specs. Some 2000s Jeep transmissions are sealed or have different adjust procedures — confirm you actually have an adjustable band design before proceeding.

4) Access and inspection (ordered)
- Raise and support vehicle safely.
- Remove lower skid and drain pan; catch and inspect pan magnet/debris. Heavy clutch material in pan indicates internal damage; don’t just adjust bands if clutches are burned.
- Remove filter (or valve body if required by your model) to expose band servos/adjusters. Clean the area so you can see/mechanically access the adjuster.

5) Locate the band, anchor and adjuster (ordered + theory)
- Identify the band drum and the band anchor/adjuster assembly on the case. The adjuster sets the anchored end position or limits the band’s return travel. Theory: by moving that anchor you change the starting position of the band relative to the drum, altering freeplay.

6) Establish “zero” and measure stroke (ordered + theory)
- Retract the servo piston fully (no hydraulic pressure) so the band is in its relaxed position. Manually rotate the drum and feel for drag to estimate current clearance.
- The correct method is to establish a contact (zero) point, then back off a measured amount to create the specified freeplay. Zeroing: turn the adjusting mechanism (screw, nut, or eccentric) until the drum just starts to bind when rotated — this means the band is just contacting the drum. Theory: zeroing guarantees you’re measuring against the same reference for all bands.

7) Set the correct clearance per spec (ordered + theory)
- From the zeroed position, back off the adjuster exactly the factory-specified amount (usually a fraction of a turn, or a set number of millimeters) so the band has the correct freeplay. This is the critical calibration: it sets how far the servo piston must travel before the band clamps, matching hydraulic stroke to mechanical engagement.
- If the factory spec gives a piston stroke/check procedure instead, use a dial indicator on the servo piston or apply hydraulic pressure and measure stroke to verify.

8) Re-assemble, fill and check (ordered)
- Reinstall filter/valve body and pan with new gasket; torque pan bolts to spec.
- Refill to correct level and type. Start engine, let transmission come to normal operating temperature, cycle through all gears with the vehicle stationary to seat the band/clutches, then road-test.
- Re-check fluid level hot and inspect for improved shift quality. If slip reduces or disappears, adjustment fixed the mechanical clearance issue. If problems persist, perform line-pressure and clutch pack leakage tests.

9) How the repair fixes the fault (focused)
- Adjusting moves the anchor point so the band’s neutral gap matches the servo stroke. Correct gap equals full band clamping when the servo is commanded, so the band produces the designed holding torque on the drum and prevents slipping/late engagement. If the band was too tight, backing it off removes unwanted drag and allows clutches/drums to release cleanly, restoring proper timing. Adjustment does not replace damaged linings or fix hydraulic pressure deficiencies; it only restores the mechanical relationship between servo travel and band engagement.

10) When adjustment is not the cure (short)
- If there’s low hydraulic pressure (pump wear, leaks, blocked passages), worn clutch linings, or broken band hardware/servo seals, adjustment will not restore normal operation. Large debris on the pan, burnt fluid, or persistent slippage after correct adjustment indicates internal wear or failure requiring rebuild or component replacement.

11) Final cautions (brief)
- Use factory specs for “zero” and back-off amounts or piston stroke checks. Wrong adjustments cause damage. If you’re not using a shop manual with the exact model/transmission procedures, stop and obtain the correct data.

This is the conceptual and procedural order for band adjustment and why each step addresses the fault.
rteeqp73