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Jeep Grand Cherokee WH WK factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & materials
- Multimeter (DC volts & ohms)
- 12 V jumper leads with an inline fuse (5 A)
- Relay puller or long-nose pliers (insulated)
- Small flat screwdriver or trim tool (for access panels)
- Test light (optional)
- Relay socket adapter / bench-tester (optional)
- Contact cleaner (electrical)
- Small wire brush or terminal cleaner
- Dielectric grease
- Replacement relay(s) OEM or exact-spec equivalent (same pin count, coil voltage 12 V, same contact rating)
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Rag

Safety first
- Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake set.
- Remove all jewelry. Wear eye protection.
- For under-dash work or if you will be manipulating high-current circuits (fan, fuel pump), disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent shorts. For simple visual inspection or relay swap you can usually leave battery connected, but disconnect if you’re unsure.
- Use an inline fuse on any bench 12 V jumper to avoid welding a shorted relay or causing a fire.

Step-by-step: locate and identify the relay
1. Consult the fuse/relay diagram: Use the diagram on the interior fuse box cover or the owner/repair manual to identify the exact relay for the circuit (fuel pump, blower motor, cooling fan, starter, etc.). On WH/WK Grand Cherokees relays are primarily in the engine bay power distribution center (PDC) and the interior fuse box — check both locations.
2. Access: Remove the PDC cover in the engine bay or the interior relay/fuse panel cover. Use a trim tool or screwdriver to release clips. Keep screws/clips in a safe place.

Remove and inspect the relay
3. Visual inspection: Note relay part number on the top. Compare visually with other relays of same function. Inspect relay socket and surrounding wiring for melted plastic, corrosion, or burned terminals.
4. Remove relay: Use a relay puller or insulated needle-nose pliers and pull straight out — do not rock or twist hard (can break the plastic socket). If stuck, work gently from two sides. Keep track of orientation.

Bench-test the relay (safe method)
5. Identify pins: Read the relay diagram molded on top (typically coil pins 85 & 86, switch pins 30 & 87, and 87a if 5‑pin).
6. Continuity test: With a multimeter in ohms mode, measure between 30 and 87 — should be open (infinite) with coil not energized. Measure coil resistance between 85 & 86 — typically tens to a few hundred ohms (spec varies). If coil is open or shorted to ground, relay is bad.
7. Energize safely: Use jumper leads with an inline 5 A fuse. Connect +12 V to pin 86 and ground to pin 85. You should hear a distinct click. While energized, measure continuity between 30 and 87 — it should now show near-zero ohms. If it doesn’t click or contacts don’t close, replace it.
8. Reverse-proof test: For 5‑pin relays, check 87a for a closed path to 30 when coil is de‑energized and open when energized.

How to test in-situ when needed
9. Backprobe carefully: With ignition off, backprobe the socket pins (or use a relay adapter). Confirm there is battery (+12 V) at the feed pin (30) and ground at the control return. Apply 12 V to the coil control pin to see if the circuit operates. Use a test light to verify outputs under load.

Replace relay
10. Replace with correct part: Only use the same type (4- vs 5-pin), same coil voltage (12 V), and equal or higher amp/contact rating. OEM part number is best. Insert the new relay in the same orientation, firmly but straight until seated.
11. Protect contacts: Spray contact cleaner into the socket if corroded, brush gently, let dry. Apply a tiny film of dielectric grease to relay pins (avoid getting grease inside relay contacts) before reinstalling.

Reassembly and final checks
12. Reinstall covers and secure clips. Reconnect battery negative if you removed it.
13. Test circuit: Operate the system (turn key on, start vehicle, cycle the device) and verify proper function. Re-check that no fuses popped and no error codes remain.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Removing or inserting relays with battery connected and metal tools can short — use insulated tools and/or disconnect battery.
- Swapping relays with different ratings or pinouts — always verify part number and pin arrangement.
- Pulling relays at an angle or forcing them — can damage the relay socket; use a proper relay puller and pull straight.
- Assuming relay is bad without testing — check socket power, ground and fuses first; a dead fuse or open wire is often mistaken for a bad relay.
- Bench-testing without an inline fuse — if the relay has an internal short you can cause sparks; always fuse the jumper.
- Using contact cleaner on a live circuit — always de-energize and let evaporate.
- Not cleaning corroded sockets — installing a new relay into a corroded socket will cause intermittent problems; clean or replace the socket if needed.

Replacement parts & when required
- Relay(s): replace if bench test fails or intermittent function persists after socket/wire checks.
- Fuse(s): inspect and replace any blown fuses found while diagnosing.
- Relay socket/connector: replace if pins are melted, corroded, or loose.
- Wiring repair: repair damaged harness with proper crimps, heat-shrink, and correct gauge wire.
- Dielectric grease and contact cleaner: for maintenance.

Quick how the main tools are used
- Multimeter: measure coil resistance (ohms), check for 12 V at pins (volts), and continuity between contacts.
- 12 V jumper (with inline fuse): energizes coil on bench or in-situ to listen for click and verify switching under controlled conditions.
- Relay puller/pliers: grips relay body to remove without stressing socket; pull straight out.
- Test light: verifies presence of battery power and switched output under load.
- Contact cleaner/brush: removes corrosion and improves conductivity.

Follow this procedure and replace only the faulty relay or damaged socket/wiring. Done.
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