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Jeep Grand Cherokee WH WK factory workshop and repair manual download

Why this repair is needed — simple theory
- The automatic transmission is a hydraulic gearbox. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) circulates under pressure to operate clutches, servos and the torque converter. If fluid leaks out the system loses pressure, lubrication and cooling. Result: slipping, hard shifts, overheating, internal wear, and ultimately transmission failure.
- Think of the transmission like a sealed water pump and gearbox. Leaks are like holes in a garden hose or a radiator hose — pressure and fluid escape. Small leaks may be tolerable for a while; continuous leaks will wreck the system.

How the system works (short, practical)
- Pump & torque converter: the engine turns the torque converter, which drives the transmission oil pump. The pump builds hydraulic pressure that routes ATF through valves and clutch packs to select gears.
- Valve body & clutch packs: hydraulic paths open/close to engage clutches and gearsets.
- Cooler lines & radiator: fluid travels to/from an external cooler (in radiator or separate cooler) to remove heat.
- Pan, filter & seals: the fluid reservoir lives in the transmission pan; a replaceable filter sits inside. The pan is sealed with a gasket or RTV. Seals and O-rings on shafts, lines and housings keep the fluid contained.
- Transfer case & outputs: on AWD/4WD (WH/WK) there’s a transfer case attached to the transmission; it has its own seals and a gasket at the mating surface.

Common leak sources on a Grand Cherokee WH/WK
- Transmission pan gasket (most common, easiest to fix)
- Pan bolts loose or stripped
- Pan drain plug (if equipped) or missing/poor washer
- Transmission filter & mating surface (rare leak, but if filter seal is bad)
- Cooler lines and line O-rings/fittings at the radiator cooler
- Line clamps or rubber lines cracked
- Output shaft seals or axle seals (rear output, front output)
- Transfer case-to-transmission gasket or adaptor housing seal
- Front pump seal / torque converter input seal (inner seal — usually requires transmission removal)
- Case cracks or damaged threads (rare, severe)

Tools & materials (basic list)
- Jack and jack stands or drive-on ramps (safely support vehicle)
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, gasket scraper
- Drain pan, rags, brake parts cleaner
- New pan gasket or high-temp RTV gasket maker (manufacturer recommended)
- New transmission filter (specific to your transmission model)
- New pan bolts or washers if corroded
- New cooler line O-rings or replacement line assembly if cracked
- Mopar ATF+4 (or owner’s manual spec) and a fluid pump/funnel
- Safety gloves and eye protection
- Clean container for fluid disposal, absorbent pads
- Thread sealant for drain plug if required
- Magnetic tray for bolts
- UV dye + lamp (optional for locating small leaks)

Step-by-step: Fixing the common pan gasket / filter leak (beginner-friendly)
1. Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Lift the front and support on jack stands or use ramps. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.

2. Warm up & drain
- Warm the engine/transmission by running the vehicle 5–10 minutes so the fluid is warm (flows easier). Turn off engine.
- Place a drain pan under the transmission pan. Loosen pan bolts gradually in a criss-cross pattern; leave two bolts at one end partially threaded to control pan tilt when fluid starts to run out.
- If there is a drain plug, remove it. If not, break the seal carefully and let fluid drain into the pan. Expect several quarts to come out.

3. Remove pan & inspect
- Remove remaining bolts and lower the pan. Tip: cleanly lower to avoid spilling residue.
- Inspect the pan: magnets will collect ferrous particles. Some fine particles are normal; chunky metal or lots of bright shavings indicates internal damage.
- Clean the pan thoroughly (degreaser/brake cleaner), scrape off old gasket residue from pan flange and transmission mating surface — be careful not to let debris fall into the transmission.

4. Replace filter
- Remove the old transmission filter (usually held by bolts or a press-fit). Some transmissions have a plastic clip or O-ring.
- Compare new filter to old one. Install new filter and tighten to specified torque (or snug per instructions). Make sure any O-rings on filters are lubricated with ATF before seating.

5. Fit new gasket / seal pan
- If using a preformed gasket: set gasket on the pan, align, and install pan bolts finger-tight first, then torque to spec in a criss-cross pattern. Typical pan bolt torque is low (approx. 7–10 ft·lb) — check service manual. Don’t overtighten or warp the pan.
- If using RTV: apply a continuous bead (~1/8") on the pan flange where the gasket would seat (follow RTV directions). Allow time for initial cure if manufacturer requires.
- Replace any pan magnets, bolt washers, or drain plug washer if present.

6. Reinstall & torque
- Reinstall the pan and torque bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque. Tighten progressively.

7. Refill fluid
- Lower vehicle.
- With engine off, add ATF via the dipstick tube using a pump or funnel. If you drained the pan only, start with about 4–6 quarts.
- Start engine and let it idle. With the parking brake on, cycle through all the gears slowly with your foot on the brake to circulate fluid and warm it up.
- With engine at idle and at normal operating temp, check fluid level on the dipstick. Add fluid little by little to reach the HOT mark. Overfilling is harmful; check level at temperature.

8. Check for leaks
- With vehicle still running, inspect under the vehicle for leaks at the pan seam, cooler lines and fittings. Stop engine and re-torque bolts if necessary.
- After a short drive, re-check level and look for new leaks.

Fixing cooler line leaks (easy to moderate)
- If leak is at a cooler line fitting (where a metal tube meets the transmission or radiator), the usual fix is to replace the O-rings or the line.
- Steps: support lines, drain some fluid to reduce mess, remove retaining clip/bolt, slide out line, replace the small O-rings at both ends (lubricate with ATF), reinsert and secure with new clamp/clip. Clean area and refill as above.
- If rubber hose sections are cracked, replace the hose or the entire line assembly.

Diagnosing where the leak is (diagnostic tips)
- Clean the area first — use brake cleaner to remove grime so you can see fresh fluid.
- Run engine briefly in park and inspect for fresh fluid. Use a paper towel to trace where the fluid appears first (working from bottom up).
- Add UV dye to fluid and run for a short time to help trace small leaks with a UV lamp.
- Remember: fluid can travel along parts before dripping and mislead you — always trace to the highest/nearest wet point.

When a leak requires major disassembly (what to expect)
- Output shaft seals, front pump (input) seal, or internal case leaks usually require removing the transmission or transfer case.
- Replacing the front pump/tcc seal typically needs transmission removal and possibly torque converter separation — this is advanced and often a shop job.
- Transfer case gasket or tail housing seals: sometimes you can drop the transfer case to replace seals/gaskets; on the WH/WK this can be a heavy, more complex job and often needs alignment marks and torque specs.

What can go wrong — common failures & mistakes
- Overtightening pan bolts: strips threads or warps pan -> new leak.
- Using wrong fluid: wrong ATF causes slipping, harsh shifts, internal damage. Use Mopar ATF+4 unless manual specifies otherwise.
- Dirty work: debris left in pan or on magnet can contaminate valve body. Not replacing filter leads to accelerated wear.
- Not torquing evenly: creates uneven gasket compression -> leaks.
- Ignoring metal shavings: significant metal on magnets indicates internal failure; simple gasket fix won’t save it.
- Reusing old seals or brittle O-rings leads to re-leaks.
- Overfilling or underfilling fluid: overfill can cause foaming and poor shifts, underfill causes slip/overheat.
- Not checking cooler line fittings: leak appears to come from pan but is actually from lines/adapter.

How to tell if the transmission is damaged beyond a leak repair
- Persistent slipping or delayed engagement after correct fluid level and fresh fluid
- Transmission overheating or repeated overheating codes
- Large metal chunks on pan magnet or metal in pan
- Burning smell from fluid
- Warning lights or limp mode even after fluid/top-up and no external leak

Disposal & cleanup
- Used ATF is hazardous waste. Collect and take to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil/ATF.
- Clean spills immediately; ATF is slippery and environmentally harmful.

Quick analogies to remember
- Transmission = hydraulic gearbox; ATF is its blood. Fixing a gasket is like putting a patch on a leaking artery — it stops the leak but doesn’t cure internal disease.
- Seals/O-rings = rubber washers on garden hose connectors. They wear, crack, and need replacing, otherwise fluid sprays out under pressure.

Final practical tips
- Always consult the factory service manual for torque specs and fluid capacity for your specific WH/WK transmission (model year and engine matter).
- If you find lots of metal or shifting problems persist after a clean gasket/filter change, stop and consult a transmission specialist.
- Keep a spare quart of correct ATF and the owner’s manual on hand when you test-drive after repair.

No unnecessary talk — these are the steps and cautions. Follow them, use the correct fluid and parts, and you’ll resolve most external transmission leaks on a Jeep Grand Cherokee WH/WK.
rteeqp73

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