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Jeep Grand Cherokee WH WK factory workshop and repair manual download

Short, thorough, no fluff. I’ll explain why the repair is needed, how the transmission system works, list and describe the components you’ll encounter, show how to find the leak, give step‑by‑step repair procedures for the common, beginner-friendly leaks (pan gasket/filter and cooler-line O‑rings), note advanced leaks (shaft seals/torque‑converter) and how those are handled, and list common failures and safety points.

Why this repair matters (theory, in plain English)
- Transmission fluid carries hydraulic pressure, lubricates gears/clutches, cools parts, and transmits torque inside an automatic transmission. Think of transmission fluid as both oil and the hydraulic “blood” that makes gear changes happen.
- If fluid leaks out, hydraulic pressure drops, temperatures rise, clutch packs slip, shifting becomes harsh or the vehicle won’t move, and internal damage happens quickly. Fixing leaks early keeps the system full and healthy.

Main components you’ll see and what each does (beginner-friendly descriptions)
- Transmission housing (case): the big cast metal body that holds gears, hydraulic circuits and fluid—like the body of a gearbox.
- Transmission pan: a shallow metal pan bolted to the bottom of the case that holds the fluid reservoir at the bottom and provides access to the filter. It also has a magnetic area or magnet to collect metal debris.
- Pan gasket or pan sealant: the seal between pan and case. Prevents fluid leaking out around the pan flange (like the lid gasket on a jar).
- Transmission filter: sits inside the case, filters particles and directs fluid flow. Often attached to the valve body or sits in the case. Replace with pan service.
- Valve body: the hydraulic control center with passages and solenoids. Hard to access without major disassembly.
- Cooler lines: metal and rubber lines that run from the transmission to the radiator (and sometimes a separate cooler). They let fluid be cooled and returned. They use O‑rings or fittings that can leak.
- Cooler (radiator lines, external cooler): radiator/aux cooler where fluid gives off heat to engine coolant or air.
- Output/input shaft seals (front pump seal, rear output seal): round seals at the shaft exits. If they leak, fluid appears near bellhousing, axle, or driveshaft. These are more advanced repairs.
- Torque converter seal (front pump/tailshaft area): leaks here leak internally or between engine and transmission; requires major work to replace.
- Dipstick/tube (where present): used for checking/filling fluid.
- Transmission mounts: support the transmission; not a leak source but you may drop/support the unit when doing major work.

How to identify the leak source (diagnosis)
- Park on a level surface and place a clean cardboard under the vehicle where the leak appears. Start engine and let idle (or drive short distance) to produce fresh drip pattern.
- Clean the transmission exterior with brake cleaner to remove old grime (so you can see fresh leaks).
- Inspect visually:
- Puddle directly under pan = suspect pan gasket or loose bolts.
- Fluid trails toward radiator/crossmember = cooler line or fitting.
- Fluid at front/bellhousing area = front pump/torque converter or engine oil mixed—confirm color and smell.
- Fluid near rear driveshaft = tailshaft/output seal or transfer case if 4WD.
- Use paper towels/wipes to trace: press against suspected area; if it soaks through, that’s the source.
- Optional: UV dye in ATF can help locate slow leaks (use the correct dye for ATF and follow instructions).

Common leak sources in a Jeep Grand Cherokee WH/WK
- Transmission pan gasket (very common) — usually an easy fix.
- Pan bolts loose or broken.
- Transmission filter to case interface (if filter is leaking).
- Cooler line O‑rings or fittings (rubber O‑rings age, metal lines fatigue).
- Cooler line to radiator or cooler fittings.
- Rear output seal or transfer case seals (harder jobs).
- Front pump/torque converter seals (major).

Tools, parts and supplies you’ll need (pan gasket/filter job)
- Tools: floor jack and jack stands (or lift), wheel chocks, drain pan, ratchet and metric socket set, extension, flat screwdriver/pry tool, gasket scraper or plastic scraper, torque wrench, line wrench (if checking cooler lines), clean rags, brake cleaner, funnel, rubber gloves, safety glasses.
- Parts/supplies: correct transmission pan gasket (OEM or good aftermarket), new transmission filter, new pan bolts if required, magnet/gasket for pan (if applicable), correct automatic transmission fluid (ATF+4 for most Chrysler/Jeep 45RFE/545RFE/5‑speed — confirm for your model year with manual; do NOT use Dexron unless manual allows), filter O‑ring(s) if applicable, RTV sealant only if gasket design requires it (follow parts instructions).
- Optional: UV dye if diagnosing slow leaks, thread locker for bolts if recommended, crush washers for cooler lines if applicable, replacement cooler line O‑rings.

Safety first
- Work on a level surface and always use jack stands (never rely on a jack). Chock wheels.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Transmission fluid is slippery and hot if recently driven.
- Allow the vehicle to cool before working.
- Dispose of used ATF properly—don’t pour down drains.

Procedure A — Replace pan gasket and filter (beginner-friendly; typical fix)
Estimated time: 1–3 hours.

1) Prepare vehicle
- Park level, set parking brake, chock front wheels, raise rear or front as required and support on jack stands so you can access the pan. Make sure engine is off and cool. Place a drain pan under transmission pan.

2) Drain fluid & remove pan
- Loosen pan bolts a couple turns starting at the back; then remove bolts progressively while keeping the pan supported because fluid will pour out. Tip: leave two bolts at opposite corners partially in until you’re ready to lift to control sudden drops.
- Lower pan and drain all fluid into drain pan. Expect a dark fluid; mild smell is normal.

3) Inspect pan and magnet
- Clean pan and inspect for metal shavings on magnet. Small fine metallic dust is normal; big chunks or heavy metal indicates internal wear—if found, note and consider further inspection by pro.
- Check pan flange for warpage or denting; replace pan if damaged.

4) Remove and inspect filter
- Unscrew or pull off filter (design varies). Inspect screen for metal debris. Replace filter at every service.

5) Clean mating surfaces
- Scrape old gasket material from pan and transmission case mating surface with a plastic scraper to avoid gouging. Wipe surfaces with brake cleaner and a clean rag until dry.

6) Install new filter and gasket
- Fit new filter per instructions (some clip in; others bolt). Position new gasket on pan—some gaskets are reusable or require a light dab of RTV at drain hole; follow the gasket maker or OEM instructions.
- If the pan is designed to use RTV instead of a gasket, apply a thin, even bead as directed and allow proper cure time.

7) Reinstall pan and torque bolts
- Lift pan into place with gasket aligned.
- Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten in a crisscross pattern progressively to final torque. Torque to the factory spec. If you don’t have the exact spec, typical pan bolts are low torque (~8–12 ft‑lb), but check the service manual—over‑torque will crush or warp the pan and cause leaks.

8) Refill fluid
- Lower vehicle, remove dipstick (if equipped) and add the manufacturer‑recommended ATF (Mopar ATF+4 for many WK/WH transmissions). Start with the amount removed plus a little—example: if you drained ~7–9 liters, refill accordingly. Exact capacity varies; use shop manual numbers.
- Start engine, cycle shifter through all gears with the brakes on to circulate fluid. With engine idling and at operating temp, check level on dipstick and add as needed until at “hot” full. Correct level procedure varies by model—follow service manual for temperature/gear position when checking.

9) Test and recheck
- Drive short distance; recheck for leaks and fluid level. Tighten bolts slightly if you see seepage. Re-check level after a short drive.

Procedure B — Cooler line O‑ring or fitting leak (moderate)
- Symptoms: dripping at cooler line connection or fluid on radiator area; lines can be replaced or O‑rings changed without removing transmission in many cases.
1) Relieve pressure & drain small amount of fluid.
2) Remove the cooler line at the transmission cooler fitting using a line wrench to avoid rounding hex.
3) Replace the O‑ring(s) with correct new O‑rings (lubricate with ATF before installing).
4) Reinstall line and torque fittings to spec (hand snug + appropriate wrench torque). Refill and check as above.

Advanced leaks — output shaft seal, front pump, torque converter seal (major)
- These require transmission removal or dropping the transmission tail/housing and often a transmission jack, axle/drive removal, and special tools. If leak is at tailshaft or front pump area, repair typically requires removing the transmission to replace the seal and inspect the torque converter and pump. This is not a quick job and is easy to get wrong; if you’re a beginner, expect a multi‑day project or consider professional help.

What can go wrong (things to avoid)
- Wrong fluid type: using incorrect ATF causes poor shift quality and internal damage. Use the manufacturer-recommended type (many Jeep automatics require ATF+4).
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: trapped old sealant causes uneven sealing and leaks.
- Over‑torquing pan bolts: warps pan or tears gasket—causes leaks.
- Cross‑threading bolts: strip the case threads—a costly repair.
- Not replacing the filter: contaminants remain and shorten transmission life.
- Not checking the magnet: big metal chunks mean destructive wear; don’t ignore.
- Not checking the exact level procedure: ATF level procedures are temperature-sensitive; wrong fill can lead to overfill (foaming, erratic shifts) or underfill (slip, heat).
- Reusing damaged O‑rings or lines: cheap to replace, expensive if left leaking.
- Dropping the vehicle: improper support, no jack stands, or working under a car with just a jack is dangerous.

Signs you should stop and get a shop involved
- Heavy metal chunks on the pan magnet.
- Leaks that trace to the tailshaft or bellhousing (shaft seals).
- Multiple leak sources or internal transmission noise and severe shifting problems.

Quick checklist / summary
- Most common, easy fix: pan gasket and filter replacement.
- Moderate fix: cooler line O‑rings/fittings.
- Major fix: shaft seals or torque converter — requires transmission removal or pro help.
- Always use correct ATF (Mopar ATF+4 for many Jeep transmissions—verify).
- Clean surfaces, hand‑start bolts, torque to spec, refill & check level at operating temp, test drive and recheck for leaks.

That’s the full beginner‑level approach: diagnose the source first, do the pan gasket/filter service if that’s the source, replace cooler line O‑rings if needed, and get professional help for shaft/tc seal jobs. Follow safety rules and use the factory service manual for exact torques and fluid quantities.
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