Tools & PPE
- 3/8" drive ratchet + long breaker bar or dedicated serpentine-belt tool (most tensioners accept a 3/8" square drive). Also have a 1/2" breaker if access is tight.
- Metric socket set (common sizes for TJ: 13mm, 15mm, 16mm). Have a deep 15mm or 1/2" socket handy for the tensioner/ pulley/bolt.
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb).
- Extension(s) and universal joint (if needed for access).
- Flat screwdriver or pry bar (small) to help guide belt.
- Gloves and eye protection.
- Wheel chocks and parking brake.
- Optional: serpentine belt tool set with long handle for extra leverage.
- Replacement parts: tensioner assembly or replacement pulley (if only the pulley bearing is bad). Replace the belt if it’s cracked, glazed, or worn.

Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, park brake on, wheels chocked.
- Engine off, key removed. For added safety around electric fan circuits, disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be working under the hood for a while.
- Allow engine to cool if hot.
- Don’t let the tensioner snap back uncontrolled — hold the tool while releasing.

Overview / what you’re doing
- You’re relieving spring tension on the automatic tensioner to slip the serpentine belt off, then removing and replacing the tensioner or pulley and reinstalling the belt to factory routing.

Step-by-step — remove belt from the tensioner
1. Note belt routing. Take a photo or follow the belt routing decal under the hood. If not available, draw a quick sketch.
2. Locate the tensioner. On TJ engines (2.5L/4.0L) it’s the spring-loaded idler with a pulley on a pivot arm.
3. Fit the tool: Insert a 3/8" ratchet or serpentine tool into the square access hole on the tensioner or place the correct-size socket (often 15mm) on the tensioner hex head. Confirm engagement so the tool cannot slip.
4. Apply force in the direction that relieves tension (this is usually rotating the tensioner toward the engine — typically clockwise on TJ units — but confirm by watching the arm while you move the tool). Pull the tool steadily; don’t jerk.
5. While holding the tensioner off, slip the belt off the easiest-to-access pulley (commonly the alternator or AC idler). Slowly ease the tensioner back to rest after the belt is free.

Remove tensioner/pulley
6. With the belt off, locate the tensioner mounting bolt(s). Support the tensioner as you remove the bolt(s).
7. Remove the mounting bolt(s) with an appropriate socket (hand tools or small impact). Keep track of any spacers or washers.
8. Remove the tensioner assembly. If you’re only changing the pulley and the pulley has a separate bolt, remove that bolt and swap pulleys — only do this if the pulley is a serviceable separate part and you have the correct replacement bearing/pulley.

Inspect & prepare replacement
9. Inspect belt, idlers, and crank/alternator/AC pulleys for play, wear, glazing, or misalignment. Replace any worn parts.
10. If tensioner bearing is noisy, replace the entire tensioner assembly (recommended). If replacing only the pulley, ensure you have the exact OEM-spec part and reuse hardware only if in good condition.

Install new tensioner/pulley
11. Position the new tensioner in place. Install the mounting bolt(s) by hand to avoid cross-threading.
12. Tighten the bolt(s) snug, then torque to factory specification. (Check the factory service manual for the exact torque. Typical TJ tensioner bolt torque is in the mid-range of 35–55 ft·lb — verify for your exact year/engine.)
13. If you removed any spacers or washers, reinstall in the same orientation.

Reinstall belt
14. Route the belt per the routing diagram/photo, leaving it off one easy pulley (usually the tensioner or alternator).
15. Insert the ratchet/serpentine tool on the tensioner and rotate it in the same direction as when removing to relieve tension.
16. Slip the belt fully onto the final pulley, ensure all ribs seat in pulley grooves, and slowly release tensioner to apply tension.
17. Inspect alignment: all belt edges should be centered on pulleys with no overhang. Spin pulleys by hand to check for interference.

Finish & test
18. Reconnect the negative battery if disconnected.
19. Start the engine and observe the belt for proper tracking and listen for noise. Let the engine idle and bring RPM up briefly to check for belt slippage.
20. Re-check tensioner mounting bolt after first heat cycle (drive) and at first service.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong tool or poor engagement: using an incorrectly sized wrench or shallow engagement will round off the tensioner head. Use the correct drive or deep socket and a long tool for leverage.
- Letting the tensioner snap: always control the release with the tool. A sudden release can injure or damage the tensioner.
- Reusing a worn belt: if belt shows wear, replace it. A new tensioner with an old, cracked belt will fail soon.
- Not torquing bolts to spec: under- or over-torquing can cause failure; use a torque wrench and the factory spec.
- Misrouting the belt: always follow the routing diagram or photo. Misrouting causes accessory failure.
- Not inspecting other pulleys/idlers: a bad idler or alternator pulley will quickly ruin a new belt/tensioner.

When to replace parts
- Replace the entire tensioner assembly if: pulley bearing noisy, arm binding, or spring weak.
- Replace only the pulley if it’s a serviceable separate part and only the bearing is faulty — but replacing the full tensioner is preferred.
- Replace the belt if cracks, glazing, fraying, or missing ribs are present.

That’s it. Follow factory torque specs and post-install checks.
rteeqp73

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