Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (8, 10, 13 mm commonly), ratchet and 6" extension
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb range)
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers, small pick
- Pliers (needle-nose)
- Throttle body cleaner (brake-safe, electronics-safe aerosol labeled “throttle body”)
- Lint‑free rags, soft nylon brush or old toothbrush
- New throttle body gasket (OEM or quality aftermarket) — or O‑ring if your year uses that
- Replacement IAC or TPS if defective (see “replacement parts”)
- Gloves, eye protection, shop towels
- Battery terminal wrench (10 mm)
- Optional: small container for bolts, compressed air

Safety first
- Work on a cool engine. Hot aluminum/intake and nearby components can burn.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake and chock wheels.
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves. Throttle body cleaner is corrosive/flammable — use in ventilated area, avoid skin contact and sparks.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before electrical work (prevents shorts, accidental cranking, and clears some ECU faults).
- Don’t smoke or create ignition sources around solvent vapors.

Overview (what you’ll do)
- Remove intake snorkel/airbox to access throttle body
- Disconnect electrical connectors and throttle cable linkage
- Remove throttle body from intake manifold (or clean on-car if preferred)
- Clean or replace components, install new gasket, reassemble
- Relearn idle / clear codes as required

Step‑by‑step (Jeep Wrangler TJ — 1997–2006; procedure applies to 2.5L & 4.0L with small differences)
1) Preparation
- Park, set e‑brake, chock wheels. Let engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal (10 mm wrench).
2) Gain access to throttle body
- Loosen clamps and remove the air intake tube/snorkel and airbox top. Remove mass air or air temp sensor if it blocks access — unplug carefully and set aside.
- Move aside vacuum lines or heater hoses if necessary for access; note routing or take phone photo.
3) Remove electrical connectors & cables
- Unplug throttle position sensor (TPS) connector and idle air control (IAC) connector (if present). Use a small flat screwdriver to release locking tab if needed — do not pry on the connector housing.
- Release throttle cable: locate the retaining clip/pin on the throttle lever. Use needle‑nose pliers to remove the clip and carefully lift the cable end off the lever. If equipped with cruise control cable, remove it the same way.
- Note: don’t kink or overstretch cables.
4) Unbolt the throttle body
- Support the throttle body with one hand. Remove the 4 throttle body-to-intake manifold bolts using the appropriate socket (usually 10 or 13 mm).
- Carefully separate the throttle body from the intake manifold. Some fuel/air residue or gasket bond may resist — pry gently with a plastic tool or thin flat screwdriver placed at an edge to avoid damaging mating surfaces.
- Put bolts in a container.
5A) Cleaning (if reusing throttle body)
- Inspect gasket; if compressed/damaged, replace.
- With throttle body off the engine (recommended), spray throttle body cleaner on a lint‑free rag and wipe the bore and throttle plate. Use a nylon brush to remove carbon on the back of the plate and butterfly edges.
- Do not spray heavy volumes of cleaner into TPS or IAC openings. Remove and clean the IAC valve separately if needed (follow IAC cleaning steps in manual).
- Use compressed air to blow out loose deposits if available.
- Ensure throttle plate moves freely and returns to closed position; shaft play should be minimal. If shaft is loose or heavily pitted, replace the throttle body.
5B) Replacement (if replacing assembly or parts)
- Replace the throttle body assembly with the new unit. Also replace IAC or TPS if they are faulty. Install a new throttle body gasket.
6) Reassembly
- Clean mating surfaces on intake manifold; ensure old gasket material is fully removed.
- Install new gasket and place throttle body onto manifold. Start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Torque bolts to spec. Typical torque: 14–22 ft·lb (20–30 N·m) — consult factory service manual for exact spec for your year/engine and torque in a crisscross pattern.
- Reconnect throttle cable to the lever and secure retaining clip. Make sure there is correct free play: small amount of pedal freeplay (a few millimeters). Adjust per factory spec if adjustable.
- Reconnect TPS and IAC connectors, vacuum hoses, MAF sensor (if removed), and reinstall airbox/snorkel. Tighten clamps.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
7) Initial start and idle relearn
- If you disconnected battery for >30 seconds or replaced throttle body/IAC/TPS, you’ll want to clear ECU adaptation:
- Turn key to ON (do not start) for 5–10 seconds, then OFF; repeat twice. Start engine and allow idle to stabilize unloaded (no A/C, lights) for 3–5 minutes.
- Optionally: with engine warm, gently rev to ~2,000 rpm three times and let return to idle to aid adaptation.
- If you have a scan tool, clear any stored codes and perform the throttle position / idle relearn routine per scan tool instructions.
- Check for vacuum leaks, proper idle, and smooth throttle response. Test-drive and monitor for check-engine light.
8) Final checks
- Recheck all connectors, clamps and bolts. Verify no leaks or abnormal noises.
- If check-engine light remains, scan for codes — common post-service codes: TPS out-of-range, IAC stuck, or MAF issues.

How tools are used (practical tips)
- Socket/ratchet: use an extension to keep clearance and avoid nicking intake surfaces. Break bolts loose with short, controlled force; avoid rounding heads.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts in crisscross pattern to specified torque to avoid warped mating surfaces.
- Flat screwdriver/pick: gently pry gasket residue; avoid gouging the aluminum face.
- Throttle body cleaner: spray onto rag or brush then clean — don’t saturate electrical openings. Spray directly only into the bore away from sensors.
- Needle-nose pliers: remove and install small retaining clips on the throttle cable.
- Compressed air: blow out loose deposits after wiping; keep air away from electrical connectors.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Damaging connectors/TPS: don’t pry on wires; release locking tabs first.
- Over‑spraying cleaner: can damage sensors and seals — apply cleaner to rag/brush and wipe.
- Reusing a damaged gasket: leads to vacuum leaks — always replace if any doubt.
- Incorrect torque: over‑torquing can warp or crack throttle body/intake; under‑torquing causes leaks. Use torque wrench.
- Improper throttle cable reassembly: can cause stuck throttle or poor idle. Ensure correct routing and correct free play.
- Not performing relearn: results in high/low idle or stumble until ECM adapts; use scan tool for precise relearn if available.
- Ignoring IAC/TPS condition: heavy carbon can stick IAC; if cleaning doesn’t restore function, replace it.
- Letting dirt fall into intake: cover manifold opening when throttle body is off.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Throttle body gasket (always replace if removed)
- Idle Air Control valve (IAC) — if sticking or not responding
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) — if out-of-range
- Full throttle body assembly — if shaft wear, excessive corrosion, or electronic throttle failure (some later models have drive-by-wire and require replacement as an assembly)

That’s it — remove airbox, disconnect cables and connectors, unbolt, clean/replace, reassemble with new gasket, torque to spec, reconnect battery, run relearn. Follow service manual torque specs and adjustment values for your exact year/engine.
rteeqp73

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- Safety first (read and follow fully before starting)
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a level surface. Use wheel chocks on the opposite wheels.
- Never rely on a jack alone; always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- If you must compress springs, use a proper spring compressor and follow its instructions exactly. Coil springs can cause serious injury or death if released improperly.
- If you are uncomfortable compressing springs, buy a complete pre-assembled strut (cartridge + spring + mount) for the TJ and swap the whole assembly instead.

- Tools required (detailed description and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Use to lift vehicle. Place the saddle under the specified jacking point (frame or axle). Pump handle to lift. Lower slowly using release valve. Never use alone to hold vehicle.
- Quality jack stands (pair)
- Place under strong frame points after lifting. Lower the vehicle onto stands so the full weight is supported by stands, not the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Place behind/forward opposite wheels to stop rolling while lifted.
- Lug wrench / breaker bar for lug nuts
- Remove wheel lug nuts. Use breaker bar for initial loosening if tight. Use correct socket size (most Wranglers use 19mm / 3/4" lugs, but check yours).
- Metric/SAE socket set and ratchet (deep and shallow sockets)
- Needed to remove strut-to-knuckle bolts, top mount nuts, sway bar link nuts, and miscellaneous brackets. Have sockets from 10mm up to 22mm (or 3/8" & 1/2" SAE equivalents). Deep sockets help on long studs.
- Use ratchet for turning; use extensions where needed.
- Combination wrench set (open and box end)
- For holding the back of bolts or nuts where sockets won’t fit. Use correct size to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Required to reassemble to correct torque. Set to spec and tighten until click; follow factory torque specs (see service manual or parts sheet).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar)
- Spray on rusty bolts and studs and let soak to help removal.
- Ball joint separator or pickle fork / large pry bar (may be needed)
- To separate the ball joint or to allow the knuckle to swing down after removing strut bolts. Use a pry bar carefully to lower knuckle; a ball joint separator helps if ball joint seats are tight.
- Hammer and punch
- For persuading stuck bolts or knocking out tapered pins (use carefully).
- Spring compressor (automotive type)
- Compresses the coil spring safely so you can remove the top mount. Use a matched pair compressor that grips coils; follow the tool’s instructions and tighten evenly and slowly. NEVER use improvised tools.
- If you do not have safe experience with spring compressors, buy a complete strut assembly pre-assembled to avoid using one.
- Bench vise (optional, for spring compressor work)
- Can hold strut while removing top nut if needed.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Speeds removal of stubborn fasteners. Not required but helpful. If used, back off carefully and always finish torquing with torque wrench.
- Wire or zip ties
- To hang brake caliper or ABS sensor to avoid stress on hoses.
- Shop rags and drip tray
- Clean parts and catch debris/fluids.
- Service manual or printout of torque specs and disassembly diagrams
- Shows factory torque specs and order; important for safe reassembly.

- Optional extra tools and why you might need them
- Ball joint press kit
- If tie-rod/ball-joint removal is required or you damage components.
- PB Blaster + wire brush
- For severe rust; wire brush cleans threads to accept penetrating oil.
- New hardware kit (nuts/bolts)
- Some fasteners are torque-to-yield or rusted; replacing them is safer than reusing damaged ones.
- Replacement brake hose bracket or ABS clips
- If clips break while disassembling.

- Parts that may need replacement (what and why)
- Strut mount (upper mount/bearing)
- Replace if rubber is cracked, deteriorated, or bearing is noisy/seized. Symptoms: clunking, popping when steering, or visible wear.
- Strut cartridge (damaged/shocked)
- Replace if the strut is leaking, bouncing excessively, or feels soft. Often replace both sides (pair) for even handling.
- Complete strut assembly (preferred for beginners)
- Buying a pre-assembled strut (spring + mount + cartridge) eliminates spring compressor use and is the safest route for beginners.
- Hardware (new nuts/bolts)
- Replace any corroded/rounded fasteners. Some suspension bolts are torque-critical and should be replaced if damaged.
- Sway bar end links, bushings, ball joint boots (inspect and replace as needed)
- If worn, replace to restore proper suspension function.
- Wheel alignment (not a part, but required service)
- After replacing struts/mounts, a full alignment is necessary. Driving without alignment causes uneven tire wear and poor handling.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level, safe sequence)
- Prepare vehicle
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.
- Lift and secure
- Use jack to lift front at the jacking point. Place jack stands under the frame or axle. Lower onto stands. Remove wheel.
- Access components and disconnect brackets
- Spray penetrating oil on stepped bolts (top mount studs, lower bolts) and let soak.
- Remove brake hose bracket and ABS sensor bracket from strut (use wrench/sockets). Hang caliper out of the way with wire/zip tie; do NOT let caliper hang by the brake hose unsupported.
- Disconnect sway bar end link nut at the top if it attaches to the strut. Remove sway bar link from strut.
- Separate strut from steering knuckle
- Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. Support the knuckle/axle so it won’t drop too far (use a floor jack or have an assistant).
- If necessary, separate the ball joint with a separator or use a pry bar to swing knuckle down to free the strut.
- Remove upper strut mount nuts
- There are three nuts on the strut tower under the hood or in the wheel well. Support the strut from below while removing the last nut so it doesn’t fall.
- Remove the strut assembly from vehicle.
- If replacing just the mount (not whole strut)
- Secure the strut in a bench vise (soft jaws or protected) or hold securely with the spring compressor installed.
- Install the spring compressors on opposite coils and tighten evenly a little at a time until spring pressure is fully off the strut rod.
- Remove the top center nut (hold the strut shaft with appropriate tool; many struts use a hex on the shaft or use locking pliers carefully). Take off the top mount, bearing, and rubber seat.
- Replace with new mount/bearing assembly. Reassemble in reverse order. Make sure spring is seated correctly before releasing compressor. Release compressor evenly and slowly.
- If using a complete pre-assembled strut
- No spring compressor needed. Install the new assembly into the vehicle.
- Reinstall strut into vehicle
- Place strut into tower and loosely install the three top nuts to hold it.
- Reattach lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts and torque to spec.
- Reconnect sway bar link, brake hose bracket, ABS wire bracket.
- Torque top nuts to factory spec (do not fully torqued until vehicle is at ride height for some applications—consult manual).
- Reassemble wheel and lower vehicle
- Reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts snugly, lower vehicle, then torque lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
- Final steps
- Double-check all hardware is torqued to factory specs.
- Test drive slowly, listening for noises. Have a professional alignment done immediately.

- Important safety and troubleshooting notes
- Spring compressors: mandatory if you are disassembling an assembled strut. Use a matched pair compressor and tighten both sides evenly. If you do not own a compressor and lack experience, buy a pre-assembled strut — it’s the safer option.
- Torque specs: use a factory service manual or a reliable online source for exact torque values. Using wrong torque can cause failure. Use your torque wrench for critical fasteners.
- Replace in pairs: replace front struts/mounts in pairs for balanced handling and braking.
- Inspect neighboring parts: check control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links and replace as needed.
- Alignment required: always get a 4-wheel alignment after suspension work.
- If a bolt is seized/rusted: penetrating oil, heat (careful), or cutting may be necessary. Damaged fasteners should be replaced.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting
- New strut mount(s) or complete pre-assembled strut assembly (front left/right as needed)
- New top nuts/bolts if old ones are corroded
- New lower fasteners if original bolts are stretched or damaged
- Replacement sway bar end links or hardware if worn
- Brake hose/ABS clip replacements (if originals break)
- Threadlocker (if specified by manual) and anti-seize for some threads
- Shop rags, penetrating oil, and safety gear

- Final practical recommendation for a beginner
- If you are inexperienced, get pre-assembled replacement struts for the TJ — eliminates spring compressor risk and simplifies the job.
- Have a torque spec sheet or service manual on hand.
- Arrange for a professional alignment after the job.

- Brief summary
- You will need basic hand tools plus a spring compressor or a pre-assembled strut to avoid the compressor.
- Replace mounts if rubber or bearings are worn; consider replacing entire strut assemblies for safety and convenience.
- Follow safety steps, use jack stands, and get an alignment when finished.
rteeqp73