What you’ll learn here: what a TJ differential is and does, what every major part is and why it can fail, the common diagnosis signs, the tools and preparation, and a step‑by‑step repair procedure you can follow as a beginner mechanic. This is a general, detailed how‑to — Jeep TJ axles vary (Dana 30/35/44, lockers, C‑clip vs non‑C‑clip). Always cross‑check any numerical spec, shim thickness, or torque with the factory service manual for your exact year/model.

Why a differential repair is needed (theory, in plain terms)
- Purpose: The differential lets the two wheels on an axle rotate at different speeds during turns while still transmitting torque from the driveshaft to the wheels. Without it, turning would cause wheel hop or tire scrubbing.
- How it works: The driveshaft turns the pinion gear. The pinion meshes with the ring gear that’s attached to the differential carrier. Inside the carrier, spider (side) gears and side gears (attached to axle shafts) allow one wheel to turn faster than the other. Bearings support the pinion and carrier; fluid lubricates the gears.
- Why repairs happen: Wear, bad installation, lack of lubrication, contamination, impact damage (rocks/obstacles), or bad bearings cause noise, vibration, leaks, or broken teeth. Small problems (a worn bearing) become big problems (cracked ring gear) if ignored.

Major components and what they do (analogy: think of the gearset like a bicycle transmission)
- Differential housing/axle housing: tough shell that holds gears and fluid — like the bike frame.
- Differential cover: removable panel to access gears; gasketed or RTV sealed.
- Ring gear: large gear bolted to the carrier; pinion turns it — like the big sprocket on a bike crank.
- Pinion gear: small gear driven by driveshaft; meshes with ring gear — like the chain on the crank.
- Carrier (differential carrier or pumpkin): holds spider/side gears and mounts to ring gear.
- Side gears and spider (spider) gears: inside the carrier; let wheels rotate at different speeds.
- Pinion bearings (tapered): support the pinion shaft; take radial and thrust loads.
- Carrier bearings: support the carrier inside the housing.
- Pinion seal and yoke: seal around pinion to keep fluid in; yoke connects pinion to driveshaft.
- Crush sleeve or solid spacer: used on some axles to set pinion bearing preload. (On some OEMs this is a one‑time‑use part.)
- Axle shafts and splines: transfer torque from side gears to wheels. Some axles use C‑clips at the differential end to retain shafts; others use flanges.
- Bearing races: pressed into housing for tapered bearings to ride on.
- Shims/adjuster nuts: used to set pinion depth and carrier bearing preload and backlash.
- Gasket/sealant: seals differential cover.
- Gear oil: GL‑5 axle lube (commonly 75W‑90), sometimes limited slip additive for LSD or locker units.

Common failure modes (what can go wrong)
- Whine at speed: usually worn/misset pinion/ring gear or bad pinion bearings (incorrect backlash/pinion depth).
- Clunk on acceleration/deceleration: loose carrier bearings, worn splines, loose ring bolts, bad pinion preload.
- Grinding/clicking: damaged gear teeth or broken spider gears.
- Leaks: worn pinion or axle seals or a leaking cover gasket.
- Metal in oil: worn bearings or gear teeth — sign of advanced wear.
- Overheating or burnt oil: severe friction or lack of lubrication.
- Broken axle or C‑clip failure: physical damage from impact or wear.
- Locker or limited‑slip failures: clutch packs worn, locker mechanism failing.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Service manual for TJ year/model (very important for specs)
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, ramps
- Socket/wrench set (deep and standard)
- Breaker bar and long extensions
- Torque wrench (0–250+ ft‑lb range recommended)
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for measuring backlash)
- Bearing puller/gear puller, slide hammer
- Hydraulic press or bearing driver set (or shop with a press)
- Pinion depth tool or shim kit and calipers (pinion depth critical)
- Gear marking compound (Prussian blue or similar) to check contact pattern
- Hammer, punches, pry bars
- Seal driver, bearing race driver set
- Thread locker (red/blue as per manual), anti-seize
- New gasket or RTV, new pinion seal, new bearings and races (recommended), new crush sleeve if applicable, ring gear bolts (replace if manual says so)
- Gear oil (correct weight and GL‑5), limited‑slip additive if required
- Cleaning solvent, rags, shop light
- Replacement ring & pinion set if worn/broken, or replacement carrier (or rebuild kit)

Basic diagnostic steps (before teardown)
1. Listen and identify:
- Whine that changes with speed (not throttle) → ring/pinion or bearings.
- Grind at low speeds or when turning → spider/side gears or axles.
- Clunk on engagement → lash/backlash or loose mountings.
2. Check fluid: drain a bit into pan. Look for metal flakes/shavings (magnetic drain plug or metal content) — severity matters.
3. Check differential cover for unusual wear patterns or contamination.
4. Inspect axle play by checking wheel end for play, rotate hubs and feel for roughness.

High‑level repair procedure (step‑by‑step, beginner friendly)
Important: this is an overview with critical procedural checkpoints. Exact shims, torque values, preload values, and acceptable backlash ranges must come from the factory manual for your axle model.

A. Preparation and safety
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, disconnect battery (optional but safe).
- Raise vehicle and support on jack stands under axle housing (not under differential cover).
- Remove wheels and brake assemblies as needed (calipers and rotors) to access axles/hubs. On some models you can remove axles and keep brakes intact — follow model specifics.

B. Drain and open differential
- Remove differential cover bolts and drain fluid into a pan (or remove drain plug if present).
- Clean mating surfaces and pry cover carefully — reuse or replace gasket as recommended.

C. Inspect and document
- Inspect ring teeth for pitting, chips, or unusual wear.
- Inspect bearings for roughness, bearing cages, and races for scoring.
- Note any metal debris in fluid or in the bottom of the housing.
- Take photos so you remember orientations.

D. Remove axles and carrier
- Remove C‑clips or retainer if present to pull axle shafts out (mark orientation).
- Remove axle shafts and parking brake/e-brake components if necessary.
- Remove carrier bearing caps (mark caps and their orientation for reassembly).
- Remove carrier assembly (may be heavy). Keep ring gear orientation and fasteners noted. Ring gear may be bolted to carrier.

E. Remove pinion
- Mark driveshaft and yoke for reassembly orientation.
- Remove yoke nut (this may be tightened hard).
- Remove yoke and slide pinion out (may require slide hammer). If crush sleeve is used, removing nut will allow sleeve to collapse — note this is a one‑time use device; replace.
- Remove pinion bearings and races (press or pull).

F. Replace bearings, seals, races
- Replace pinion bearings, races, and seals; replace carrier bearings/races if worn.
- Clean housing thoroughly; remove old gasket/sealant.

G. Setting pinion depth and bearing preload
- This is critical: pinion depth controls where gear teeth mesh. Methods:
- Shim method: use pinion shims and measure pinion depth with a depth gauge per manual.
- Pinion depth tool: specialized tool and dummy pinion for precise setting.
- Install new bearings/races per manual, put in a new crush sleeve or spacer as required.
- Use a new pinion seal; snug the pinion nut to a starting torque to seat bearings, then tighten to achieve correct bearing preload (if crush sleeve used, you tighten to specified torque to crush sleeve and set preload — this is why a factory manual is essential).
- Confirm pinion preload per manual (some measure rotational torque with a torque wrench on the yoke — called "pinion preload measurement" — typical values are a few in‑lbs to few ft‑lbs of rotational torque, but always use manual numbers).

H. Install carrier and set backlash
- Install carrier with ring gear (if mounted). If you replace ring gear, ensure bolts are torqued and Loctite used as required.
- Backlash is the play between ring and pinion tooth faces; measured with a dial indicator on a ring gear tooth while holding pinion stationary. Typical backlash ranges for many Dana axles are 0.006–0.012 inches but verify manual.
- Adjust backlash by changing carrier bearing shims (or using adjuster nuts if equipped). Move carrier in or out until backlash is within spec and bearing preload is correct.
- Check carrier bearing preload (tightness of carrier bearings). This is set using shims or adjuster nuts; there’s an interplay between backlash and preload — iterate adjustments to meet both specs.

I. Check gear tooth contact pattern
- Once backlash and pinion depth appear correct, apply gear marking compound to ring gear teeth and rotate the gear through several turns under load (use a wrench on the pinion yoke).
- Inspect the contact pattern: it should be centered on the tooth face, not too close to the heel or toe, and not too high or low on the tooth. If the pattern is off, adjust pinion depth (moves pattern toward face or flank) or backlash (moves pattern toward toe/heel).
- Repeat marking after each adjustment until pattern is optimal. This is the most important validation step; improper pattern causes rapid wear and noise.

J. Final assembly
- Torque carrier bearing caps to spec; follow the tightening sequence and orientation marks.
- Install pinion yoke, torque nut to final spec (per manual) and verify pinion preload.
- Clean and install the differential cover with gasket or RTV as specified. Torque cover bolts to spec.
- Reinstall axle shafts, brakes, wheels, and driveshaft (align marks), reattach components removed.
- Refill with correct gear oil and limited‑slip additive if needed.

K. Break‑in and testing
- Drive gently for first 200–500 miles. Listen for noise and recheck for leaks.
- After 50–100 miles, re‑check pinion nut torque (if manual recommends) and recheck backlash and bearing preload as required by the manual.

Practical tips and traps (short and direct)
- Cleanliness: dirt is death. Keep gears and bearings spotless during assembly.
- One‑time parts: crush sleeves, some pinion nuts, and certain seal types are one‑time use. Replace them.
- Replace bearings and races in matched pairs; don’t mix old and new bearings.
- Ring gear bolts: replace if the manual says. Use thread locker or torque‑to‑spec in sequence.
- Gear marking: small pattern changes mean small shim changes; don’t overcorrect.
- Don’t assume right‑hand/left‑hand: label every cap, bolt, and shim as you remove them.
- If you don’t have a press, a machine shop or axle shop can press bearings and check final setup. Outsourcing the press or pinion depth setting to a shop is common for first‑timers.
- If you’re uncomfortable setting pattern or measuring backlash, get the gear set pre‑assembled by a shop or take it to a shop for final setup — incorrect setup destroys gears quickly.

When to replace the ring & pinion vs rebuild carrier
- Replace ring/pinion when teeth are chipped, pitted, or show heavy wear; replacing single gear (just bearings) is only acceptable if pattern and teeth are fine.
- Replace carrier or spider gears if broken teeth, excessive wear, or if bearings are damaged beyond contour.
- If metal contamination is heavy, clean the housing thoroughly and consider replacing axle shafts and internal components.

What to expect after a correct repair
- Quiet operation at speed (no whine), no clunks, no leaks, smooth engagement.
- Gear life depends on correct setup and correct lubricant.

Quick checklist for a new install (minimum)
- New pinion bearings, races and seal (recommended)
- New carrier bearings (recommended)
- New crush sleeve or spacer if required
- New ring gear bolts if required
- Clean housing, replace gaskets/sealant
- Proper backlash and pinion depth with verified contact pattern
- Correct lubricant and required additives
- Break‑in, then recheck

Final note (important): differential repair requires precise measurement and iteration. If you don’t have the dial indicator, depth tool, torque wrench, or a press, or you’re unsure about setting pattern and preload, have a qualified axle shop do those critical steps. Incorrect setup will cause immediate accelerated wear or catastrophic failure.

That’s the complete beginner‑level pathway: understand the parts and theory, diagnose by symptoms and fluid inspection, then remove, replace bearings/seals/gears as needed, set pinion depth and backlash with a dial indicator and gear marking compound, assemble, fill with proper oil, break in carefully. No fluff — just the steps and what to watch for.
rteeqp73

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